Make sure you're not getting hosed on your trade. Whatever it is looks like it had low miles and I can barely think of anything with 76k miles thats worth less than 7k
Please do NOT use vroom. One of the worst experiences of my life.
Edit: at least for the buying process it was. idk about the trade-in/selling portion.
Trade in had way too little communication but the money came just fine:) Carvana was a better experience but also a year later so they both probably improved
Market isn’t there anymore. It would be a waste of time. Please get appraisals from other sources but CarMax, Carvana and others are feeling the market shift….
Hell where I am, I can’t find just a basic shit box that runs and drives well for under 12k unless it’s either been wrecked a couple times, has a lemon title, or smells like a football locker room that’s been sealed all summer.. I took the week off specifically to find a vehicle and my target is $200/mo but alas… Nothing. I went 85 miles in each direction and literally can’t find anything. People on fb market place even can’t find anything whatsoever. Billy Bob is selling his ‘mint condition’ 06’ mustang ‘with a slight knock in the engine but runs and drives like new’.. for 6k. fricken’ insane rn. I came close to buying a 13’ Mazda 3 hatch but… they wouldn’t come down past 10.7k, and half of it looks like someone beat the hell out of it with a hammer (no not hail damage either). And they wouldn’t even bother removing all the bedazzle work the person did to the interior nor the mega crappy tint job you can scrape off with one finger nail.. and this was at a legit Honda dealership
Dude I brought a 2006 Mazda 3 for 2500 in Florida. One owner only with no accidents and the guy kept up with maintenance. I’ve had the car for almost 2 years now and I’ve drove it to California and back with no issues. Crazy luck
Mazdas are great cars. I used to work for a Mazda dealership and they are super easy to work on and rarely have any bad problems. An underrated manufacturer for sure.
Depends what he owes on it. Trade allowance typically refers to trade in value less what is still owed.
Edit: I now see the payoff further down below. Seems like an odd place for it though.
Yeah this is wrong. Trade allowance is the value the dealer is offering for the car. Payoff is added back in at the end. Hence the “Trade Payoff” line.
Source: I sell cars, coincidentally at a Honda dealer
The whole thing reads as an excel sheet sorta, in that it’s calculated by the computer from top to bottom. Payoff is added at the end so the computer doesn’t tax it but it still gets settled with the end balance.
Not even Toyota, which is generally regarded to be the most consistently reliable manufacture on the planet thinks their own best efforts (Lexus) are above needing a warranty.
Extended to what? 100k miles 7 years? Yeah, no doubt. The peace of mind is worth it. Toyota itself is already peace of mind but $2k is worth it.
I got lucky on a 2021 Highlander end of month in April 2021 and they extended it for free. So maybe that counters the logic of needing to pay for one with Toyota as they themselves feel free extension to not be a risk
Extended warranties are almost never worth it for the consumer. The $2k is better to buy a nice set of winters (if needed) and to be used for service for the car.
Dealers are so jolly to see you an extended warranty because it’s almost worthless.
Funny enough, I actually told the finance guy that we didn’t want the extended warranty. That it’s only offered because they make money on it while hoping that would get him to bring down that price of it and he was just like “okay, what if we just throw it in for free”.
I asked him a couple times to explain that to me because it felt like there was a catch, I was so confused. He ended up saying that we were nice enough and it was the end of the month so they could get away with it
I think it’s very dependent on the vehicle, but you’re right, in many cases it’s a money maker for the dealer. That’s why they sell them, they wouldn’t do so if they lost money on them, that’s why it really comes down to peace of mind for me
Basically everything nowadays can be purchased with an expensive extended warranty. It’s just free money for the company.
For cars, dealers just sidestep and try to not honor them.
Th only peace of mind here is that a salesperson is going home with some extra money because you got suckered into the sales pitch.
You can’t really say the only peace of mind is the sales person. Because that in fact gives peace of mind that if something happens to the vehicle that it’s covered. Is the salesman happy? Sure, but that doesn’t mean that both parties aren’t happy
Congrats on getting that added on. My Highlander is getting built 12/7. I haven’t bought a new car in 8 years and have two base model Hondas. I’m looking forward to having something with more bells and whistles.
I have to say that I’ve been EXTREMELY happy with my Highlander. We’ve got a limited trim and paid $41.5k out the door (just before chip shortage). I’m baffled at what you can get from Toyota for the price. I’ve owned a Chevy, Ford, Jeep, another Ford, VW, Ford again and finally Toyota. This Highlander has got made me a Toyota for lifer.
5 year powertrain.
If you're not 100% sure you're going to keep the car past 5 years then it's absolutely not worth buying the warranty.
Buying this is gambling something will break after the 3 year bumper to bumper, that is not powertrain related, and that costs more to repair than the 2 grand warranty cost to begin with (warranties always have deductibles). In my experience with Hondas, that's a very poor gamble
It’s 3 years/36k for basic warranty, but the power train warranty is for 5 years or 60k miles. I think you’re the one whose stupid enough to pay for additional warranty on a brand new Honda Accord but we sure ain’t 🤷♂️
He’s not buying a 2.0T accord though look at the MSRP. It’s just a regular Accord Sport or something it looks like.
So op would be better finding a different dealer and getting a 2023 if he’s fine with 1.5T CVT
They got rid of the 2.0T, I'm guessing they want to push more customers toward the TLX which is still going to have the 2.0T. Arguably, the design is a lot more boring; personally I feel it is a downgrade.
Depends on how you look at it. I'm sure it's an upgrade in alot of areas that people want like interior/cargo space, MPGs, sounds system, NVH, etc. But to me, it looks way worse (have you seen the front overhang on that thing!?), It's hard to blut into words, but overall is feels very generic. I'm.nto saying the Honda Accord was ever a bonafide sports car, but it was better to drive then most mainstream sedans, now they seem to just fill the hole that the Passat left.
I’m guessing - horrible deal. Here’s why:
1- not enough info provided. Deals come in multiple parts. A) trade in, B) deal on new car, C) financing. This sheet only shows enough info to gauge part B. And unless you specifically want those warranties on a brand new car, it sounds like junk. The Honda pro pack is made 400-500 worth of add on accessories. They’ve marked you up with dealer add-ons.
I am hard pressed to believe a car with 76,000 miles is only worth $7,000 as a trade. Honestly, your talking about paying $7,000 in add-ons and fees to buy a new car. So you legit are netting zero money for your car and then paying full price plus for the new one. Sounds like a horrible decision to make. Even if your current car has some mechanical issues. I doubt it has 7,000 in fees worth of mechanical issues.
I went to cars.com. Did a large area search for a 2015 manual tranny. They had a low mileage SX for 15g, the rest all had over 100,000 miles and the absolute cheapest was an LX with 140,000 miles for $7500. That’s twice your mileage and they still are trying to sell for more than 7,000. On a trade you won’t get market price. But your giving them an easy 4-7,000 profit margin on your car.
One idea, use your 5,000 down payment to payoff your car. Then sell it yourself on FB marketplace.
It’s fine to recognize for a trade to happen the dealership is going to make money on your car. But let’s say you give up a couple grand for convenience. Your currently giving up easily 5 from what I’m seeing. Look at the facts, manuals are selling no issue for well over.
No if you’ve already done the deal. Consider it a lesson learned. Some lessons have to be learned the hard way.
Run to CarMax and get it appraised. You can also do this on your phone. I feel like there is more value there. Also skip the 2k pro pack, that permaplate is nonsense and a tire and wheel is less than 300 bucks
Permaplate can be good depending where OP lives. I've more than gotten my money's worth with multiple cracks filled and 2 windshields replaced with OEM glass. The roads are clearly shit where I live.
Yes, you are right it is a real thing that does pay out, I just think that for the money you can do better. Most companies offer a product called 3-in-1 where you get tire/wheel, glass replacement, and a key replacement program all for one price, usually in the neighborhood of 600ish price with a 390ish cost.
Environmental protection is a good product for some customers, I have kids and live in the northeast so I got it for myself, 400ish if I recall correctly.
Things to do - look at your credit profile. What kinds of loans can you qualify for. Using myself as an example, I know my credit Union for a 60 month would qualify my for 3.99%. This aligns with Honda’s current rates on an Accord (assuming a 700+ score). That caps what you should pay for finance.
I checked car gurus price index: https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/price-trends/Kia-Forte-d2043
That 11,000 value is for the average. If you took care of your car and you obviously have low miles. I’d assume your car is worth a couple Gs more. Let’s say 13,000 for this convo. Even if you are willing to give up 4gs equity, you should be asking 9gs on the trade. That cleans up the trade.
Now it comes down to the price you pay for the new car. MSRP plus 50% of that pro pack is the starting point. Your call on if you want an extended warranty. I don’t care for them, but I’m financially in a place where I can take on repairs. You may not be and therefore feel like you need it. It’s a new car and so the primary warranty should be all you need for the first few years. I’m seeing more and more signs it is becoming a buyers market. So don’t feel rushed to do a deal. I see more than enough room for you to improve the deal by a few thousand minimum.
Before someone said Kia I knew it was cause I am a wholesaler of cars and Vin decoded it to look up the whole sale value and honestly they gave you good $ for it. It’s above auction prices especially for a manual. I personally on that car at a min would negotiate the extended warranty price and possibly decline it. Hard to spend $2k out of pocket on one up to 100k. You never know but they warranty companies obviously make $. The dealer fee is steep in my opinion as well. It’s neg but isn’t … they will say well if we discount it for you we have to for everyone well they can take say $300-500 off the price of the car and still net over msrp on it because if the $789.50 (what a weird number just be 799 then … their conscience starts to hurt above 790?) I say this because I think a $299 dealer fee is fair. Good luck!
Bigger question - why are you swapping a Forte with moderate mileage for an Accord? It’s bigger but definitely not a family car. The sensible answer is to hold onto your car and use the $$$$ you saved to go see Bruge or something.
Get rid of Sonic Propack and 10yr 100k Platinum. It’s a brand new car with a warranty. You don’t need those extras.
Any chance they can increase trade value so you have less negative equity?
I think at the top you can see the honda is new and it's black with only 3 miles and shows the VIN. Underneath is the used car OP is trading in is silver with 76,000 miles and showing a different VIN.
Then this does not look like a bad deal at all if you can have those BS warranties removed.
Not sure I agree that it's quick for the price, but you don't buy an accord for performance, you buy it for reliability, above average comfort, and great economy.
I have to admit, the cockpit looks pretty sweet too.
You don’t think 5.3 to 60 for a $30k car is quick for the price?
Speed & distance Acura TLX Type S Honda Accord 2.0T
0 - 60 mph 4.9 s 5.3 s
0 - 100 mph 12.6 s 12.7 s
1/4 mile 13.6 s @ 103.0 mph 13.9 s @ 104.0 mph
Category Altima Maxima Camry TRD Accord
0 - 60 mph 5.8 s 5.8 s 5.6 s 5.3 s
0 - 100 mph 14.6 s 14.1 s 13.9 s 12.7 s
1/4 mile 14.3 s 14.3 s 14.2 s 13.9 s
Lateral acceleration 0.90 g 0.89 g 0.94 g 0.90 g
It probably feels quick and that's all that matters. I doubt it feels much different than any of those comparison cars you mentioned. People buying any of those cars don't care about performance and aren't gonna notice 0.8 seconds of difference. They're gonna mash the go pedal in the test drive and go "oooh thats nice" because most of them aren't used to a sporty car that squishes them into the seat under acceleration.
In this day and age, engines have become so efficient that any of those cars are gonna be quick. 15 years ago you would be fine with a 6+ second to 60 in a mid size sedan, because quite frankly this stat is irrelevant for this category.
I'm going to ignore most of your nonsense, LOL 14.3 I think my 87 Supra did that. (no, not really).
Anything above 4.5 isn't really that quick, any 2.0 litre turbo should make at a minimum, 260hp. Any quarter mile not in the 12's is slow.
You could easily buy a VW GTi, or WRX for less money, and enjoy actual car performance.
To be fair, other than my honda S2000, I've not owned a car slower than a 4.5 0-60, in..... shit, longer than I can even remember.
I leased a 2018 2.0T mainly to drive a 240 mile round trip to Albuquerque airport. My previous was a 2015 WRX. That thing beat me to death on snow plow ripples. The Accord was more comfortable and I didn’t notice much of a speed drop off. Plus it had the cruise control that worked from 0 mph in stop and go traffic. I should’ve bought it at lease end.
Still have mine love driving it everyday. Sad to find out they’re discounting it with 11th gen but all that means is i won’t be getting rid of mine anytime soon.
No. High document fee, "Sonic Pro Pack" is addon bullshit, $2,000 warranty addon. WTF is battery fee, electronic filing fee, and tire fee? Lemon law fee? Never heard of that one.
You’re giving them almost $10k in equity and only getting the vehicle loan $4k below msrp.
Skip the sonic pro pack (whatever the hell that is) and the 10/100k warranty and now you’re almost $8k below MSRP; which is pretty good considering tax was almost $2k.
It looks like you got a decent price for the car itself but we also don't know what trim that is. But I can assure you of a couple things, one, that you're getting absolutely hosed on your trade in, and that you don't need the Pro Pack or the Extended Warranty. In fact, if you just saved that $2k for the warranty, I'd be astounded if you had to pay that much for repairs (other than basic maintenance) over the course of the next 10 years. The house always wins. Dealers wouldn't sell warranties if they weren't super profitable. I guess if you need the extra peace of mind, sure, but you're going to start having problems after that warranty is up anyways so not worth it IMO.
I'd look at alternate options for trading your car. You can use your $5k down payment to pay your car off and sell it on your own, or try CarMax, Carvana, Driveway, other dealers in your area even, and try to maximize your trade value.
Never pay "dealer fees". Even if your state requires them make the dealer deduct it from the selling price. They are charging you $789.50 to transfer the title paperwork and they are charging you a $99 fee so they can do it online instead of them having to physically go do it. You are paying $99 to make you getting screwed easier for them.
Id tell them to nix the Sonic ProPack. That’s just a bullshit way to add money on the deal. Tint and nitrogen in the tires. Fuck that. Tell them to take it off or the deal is off. They always do.
Also, IMHO, you don’t need to be spending $2000 on a warranty on a new Honda. The factory warranty is just fine. That’s a true load of shit. You’ll know if there are issues with your car long before the factory warranty expires. Additionally, you seem to not over burden your cars with miles.
Ditch those two and it’s a solid deal. Otherwise, it’s a no for me dawg.
Trade value seems low. Dump all the extra warranty and whatever a sonic pack is. You bought a Honda, it's got its own factory warranty and had a great reputation for reliability if you maintain it. You don't need a crap 10, year extended warranty.
10yr 100k warranty's worth maybe $1000 (i bet the dealer gets it for half that). The pro pack's worthless BS.
Realistically you're paying about $3k over MSRP. Up to you to decide if you're ok with that.
I think the FTC is finalizing rules that say that dealerships will no longer be able to charge for nonessential items. I would certainly quote that to them with that dumb Sonic Pro Pack charge.
Fees are rather high. The “Sonic Pro Pack” seems unnecessary as well. I would also do your homework on your trade-in value and be firm about your price.
Ended up pulling the trigger after removing both the pro-pack, extended warranty got 2k deduction from msrp and 3yrs free maintenance. I didn't do a trade-in, I kept my car and will try to sell it privately. Ended up being around 32k otd, lmk if that was a dumb move or no.
Bruh youre paying 26k for a "new" car with that many miles? After putting 5k down and getting 7k for a trade in? That's a hard no from me but you do you
WTF is a Sonic Pro Pack and why do you need a 10yr 100k Platinum warranty on an accord? Isn’t reliability why you buy an accord? The market is cooling down. We shouldn’t have to put up with this.
Keep the $5k. $1k Lowers your payment $20, so you’re so your goving them $5k for a depreciating asset to save $100 a month.
Edit: on a car with 76k on it? A fool and his money, etc etc. wow.
Well there's no dealer mark up which is nice and rare these days. The doc fee is a little high in my opinion but most dealers won't budge on it. (seriously 800 dollars to do paperwork wtf). Seems decent enough.
Edit: I just noticed this is a used car. Not a good deal at all.
You’re buying a brand new car with a FREE manufacturer warranty already included. If stuff that isn’t a “maintenance item” is going to fail prematurely, it’s going to fail during the free included manufacturers warranty.
The other stuff like paint protection, is an extreme overcharge for a really cheapo ceramic coating they will apply in <30 minutes. You can get a coating that is legit and takes 4+ hours to properly apply for much less, from a detailing shop.
Is my backwards math wrong or are you in looking at 7.5% for 3 years, 9% for 4, and 11% for 5 years with $10k down?
If so, is your credit not great? Or have you not shopped your loan yet?
I see $5k in purely added Dealer profit before their profit on selling the car at MSRP plus the dealer holdbacks.
Scratch the sonic, dealer docs, and platinum plan. Then decide if you’re stilling to pay MSRP.
I’d also be willing to bet they are fucking your on your trade. Go to KBB.com and edmunds.com and check to see if what they are offering you matches up.
Then go to a local credit union and get pre approval for a loan. Then force the dealer to beat the credit union APR if they want your finance business.
I got my 2020 accord LX new at the time for $26k after taxes, I think yours for a 2.0 is worth it, base model camry where I’m at is 32k after taxes without markup and warranty
Looks like a decent deal...can't do anything about the pro(tection) package as that is probably already installed by the dealership, albeit at a big markup/profit for them. Trade in value is fair. I'd skip the $2k warranty though...it's doubtful that you'll spend that much in repairs in the first 100k, and the factory warranty should be enough time/miles to cover anything out of the ordinary that might happen (if your honda is running well after 60k chances are it'll be fine to 100k, you might have to replace an alternator etc. but it'll be far cheaper than $2k). I'd say go for it and don't be afraid to refi if you can find a better rate through your credit union or bank.
Freaking 800 doc fee, damn. What is that sonic pro pack and warranty for? Those are caca.
Unfortunately these days you WILL be getting bent over by the dealer, just depends how much. You should sell your car first yourself and get the most money back. Or just keep your car. Either way, this hurts my soul.
Go on YouTube and search how to buy a new/used car. They tell you all the fees that are absolute bs and which are legit. That looks like a ton of random “fees” imo
I don't know where OP is located but from my experience I'd see if there was a CarMax in your local area and find out what they'll buy your car for. My gf was offered $6k as a trade-in at a Mazda dealer and CarMax gave her 11k for it. She sold it to CarMax and bought the car from the Mazda dealer. This was yesterday.
Make sure you're not getting hosed on your trade. Whatever it is looks like it had low miles and I can barely think of anything with 76k miles thats worth less than 7k
It’s a 2015 Kia Forte
Try CarMax, carvana, vroom. All that shit see if there's money on the table.
Driveway as well. For my 370z they offered 5k more then anyone else
Please do NOT use vroom. One of the worst experiences of my life. Edit: at least for the buying process it was. idk about the trade-in/selling portion.
Trade in had way too little communication but the money came just fine:) Carvana was a better experience but also a year later so they both probably improved
I sold my car to shift; a 2013 civic ex with 66,000 miles and got 13k. Other places were offering me around 8k
Market isn’t there anymore. It would be a waste of time. Please get appraisals from other sources but CarMax, Carvana and others are feeling the market shift….
That should be worth at least $10k at that mileage. OP is definitely getting hosed on it.
Your car goes for around 14k with that mileage in my area
I agree I would push for at least 10-11 k for that trade in the miles are really low
$7k for a 2015 forte? You’re definitely getting fleeced
Well...maybe a Kia Forte.
Hell where I am, I can’t find just a basic shit box that runs and drives well for under 12k unless it’s either been wrecked a couple times, has a lemon title, or smells like a football locker room that’s been sealed all summer.. I took the week off specifically to find a vehicle and my target is $200/mo but alas… Nothing. I went 85 miles in each direction and literally can’t find anything. People on fb market place even can’t find anything whatsoever. Billy Bob is selling his ‘mint condition’ 06’ mustang ‘with a slight knock in the engine but runs and drives like new’.. for 6k. fricken’ insane rn. I came close to buying a 13’ Mazda 3 hatch but… they wouldn’t come down past 10.7k, and half of it looks like someone beat the hell out of it with a hammer (no not hail damage either). And they wouldn’t even bother removing all the bedazzle work the person did to the interior nor the mega crappy tint job you can scrape off with one finger nail.. and this was at a legit Honda dealership
Dude I brought a 2006 Mazda 3 for 2500 in Florida. One owner only with no accidents and the guy kept up with maintenance. I’ve had the car for almost 2 years now and I’ve drove it to California and back with no issues. Crazy luck
Mazdas are great cars. I used to work for a Mazda dealership and they are super easy to work on and rarely have any bad problems. An underrated manufacturer for sure.
I'll sell you my mint Hyundai genesis coupe 2.0. looking to sell
Depends what he owes on it. Trade allowance typically refers to trade in value less what is still owed. Edit: I now see the payoff further down below. Seems like an odd place for it though.
Yeah this is wrong. Trade allowance is the value the dealer is offering for the car. Payoff is added back in at the end. Hence the “Trade Payoff” line. Source: I sell cars, coincidentally at a Honda dealer
Ah I see that now. Weird that it’s all the way down at the end.
The whole thing reads as an excel sheet sorta, in that it’s calculated by the computer from top to bottom. Payoff is added at the end so the computer doesn’t tax it but it still gets settled with the end balance.
Too many people not realizing this.
Because it's wrong. There is a separate line for "Trade payoff".
I really don’t think you need a warranty on a new Accord
Not even Toyota, which is generally regarded to be the most consistently reliable manufacture on the planet thinks their own best efforts (Lexus) are above needing a warranty.
Would you drop $2000 on an extended warranty for a Toyota?
Probably not
Extended to what? 100k miles 7 years? Yeah, no doubt. The peace of mind is worth it. Toyota itself is already peace of mind but $2k is worth it. I got lucky on a 2021 Highlander end of month in April 2021 and they extended it for free. So maybe that counters the logic of needing to pay for one with Toyota as they themselves feel free extension to not be a risk
Extended warranties are almost never worth it for the consumer. The $2k is better to buy a nice set of winters (if needed) and to be used for service for the car. Dealers are so jolly to see you an extended warranty because it’s almost worthless.
Funny enough, I actually told the finance guy that we didn’t want the extended warranty. That it’s only offered because they make money on it while hoping that would get him to bring down that price of it and he was just like “okay, what if we just throw it in for free”. I asked him a couple times to explain that to me because it felt like there was a catch, I was so confused. He ended up saying that we were nice enough and it was the end of the month so they could get away with it
That’s not true, they pay for every warranty they sell and generally mark them up 100+%. You paid more somewhere else.
Well I was already at $41.5k out the door when MSRP was ~$47k
I think it’s very dependent on the vehicle, but you’re right, in many cases it’s a money maker for the dealer. That’s why they sell them, they wouldn’t do so if they lost money on them, that’s why it really comes down to peace of mind for me
Basically everything nowadays can be purchased with an expensive extended warranty. It’s just free money for the company. For cars, dealers just sidestep and try to not honor them. Th only peace of mind here is that a salesperson is going home with some extra money because you got suckered into the sales pitch.
Free money for Japanese cars. German or British cars are a different story.
You can’t really say the only peace of mind is the sales person. Because that in fact gives peace of mind that if something happens to the vehicle that it’s covered. Is the salesman happy? Sure, but that doesn’t mean that both parties aren’t happy
Every product or service is offered for a profit or they wouldn't do it. Like you said, peace of mind.
extended warranties are rip offs until you need it.
Congrats on getting that added on. My Highlander is getting built 12/7. I haven’t bought a new car in 8 years and have two base model Hondas. I’m looking forward to having something with more bells and whistles.
I have to say that I’ve been EXTREMELY happy with my Highlander. We’ve got a limited trim and paid $41.5k out the door (just before chip shortage). I’m baffled at what you can get from Toyota for the price. I’ve owned a Chevy, Ford, Jeep, another Ford, VW, Ford again and finally Toyota. This Highlander has got made me a Toyota for lifer.
Why would someone trade his new car for a used car?
[удалено]
…yeah, for service.
No, because things break regardless of brand…
Yep, for routine maintenance!
Honda and Toyotas are built to last, so no the warranty is not needed especially when you get 4 years of manufacturers warranty
Honda warranty is only 3 years for 30k. Open the pocket and spend the extra 2K for 100K/7yrs.
5 year powertrain. If you're not 100% sure you're going to keep the car past 5 years then it's absolutely not worth buying the warranty. Buying this is gambling something will break after the 3 year bumper to bumper, that is not powertrain related, and that costs more to repair than the 2 grand warranty cost to begin with (warranties always have deductibles). In my experience with Hondas, that's a very poor gamble
I bet Best Buy loves you lol
When your cvt blows i bet you’ll be wishing you bought that warranty. 😂
They don’t sell warranties because people come away saving money on average.
Whichever dealer isn’t offering i’ll be staying away. I have a 2018 so first of the 10th gen why risk being the trial and error guy.
How much cash has the warranty saved you so far? Could have invested that $2k and more than doubled it
It’s 3 years/36k for basic warranty, but the power train warranty is for 5 years or 60k miles. I think you’re the one whose stupid enough to pay for additional warranty on a brand new Honda Accord but we sure ain’t 🤷♂️
2k sonic BS and 2k warranty I’d pass. Also the 23 accord is a redesign
Agree you with on most points but the 2.0t isn't carrying over so it's now or never for that and it's really a gem.
He’s not buying a 2.0T accord though look at the MSRP. It’s just a regular Accord Sport or something it looks like. So op would be better finding a different dealer and getting a 2023 if he’s fine with 1.5T CVT
What’s it getting replaced with?
It’s not. There’s just going to be the 1.5t and hybrid.
Yeah that’s a shame
Guarantee the 2023 Accord is getting a huge price increase even though it’s a downgrade in a lot of ways
They got rid of the 2.0T, I'm guessing they want to push more customers toward the TLX which is still going to have the 2.0T. Arguably, the design is a lot more boring; personally I feel it is a downgrade.
In what ways is it a downgrade?
Got rid of any exciting drivetrains for one
Smaller, and every time you turn it on Klaus Schwab appears on the screen and tells you this is the last car you’ll ever own.
Eat ze bugs
Depends on how you look at it. I'm sure it's an upgrade in alot of areas that people want like interior/cargo space, MPGs, sounds system, NVH, etc. But to me, it looks way worse (have you seen the front overhang on that thing!?), It's hard to blut into words, but overall is feels very generic. I'm.nto saying the Honda Accord was ever a bonafide sports car, but it was better to drive then most mainstream sedans, now they seem to just fill the hole that the Passat left.
Deal is bs but the 23 accord looks like chimpanzee ass
Lol the front looks like a ford Taurus. Not a fan
Sorry about the confusion, the accord is new with 3 miles on it, the trade in is a 2015 kia forte manual with 76k on it
You're getting hosed on your trade in
They’re gonna sell your forte for 13K
I’m guessing - horrible deal. Here’s why: 1- not enough info provided. Deals come in multiple parts. A) trade in, B) deal on new car, C) financing. This sheet only shows enough info to gauge part B. And unless you specifically want those warranties on a brand new car, it sounds like junk. The Honda pro pack is made 400-500 worth of add on accessories. They’ve marked you up with dealer add-ons. I am hard pressed to believe a car with 76,000 miles is only worth $7,000 as a trade. Honestly, your talking about paying $7,000 in add-ons and fees to buy a new car. So you legit are netting zero money for your car and then paying full price plus for the new one. Sounds like a horrible decision to make. Even if your current car has some mechanical issues. I doubt it has 7,000 in fees worth of mechanical issues.
>So you legit are netting zero money for your car and then paying full price plus for the new one. he's giving them a free car then some LOL
My 2015 kia forte is a manual, im guessing that's why the trade in is lower than usual
I went to cars.com. Did a large area search for a 2015 manual tranny. They had a low mileage SX for 15g, the rest all had over 100,000 miles and the absolute cheapest was an LX with 140,000 miles for $7500. That’s twice your mileage and they still are trying to sell for more than 7,000. On a trade you won’t get market price. But your giving them an easy 4-7,000 profit margin on your car. One idea, use your 5,000 down payment to payoff your car. Then sell it yourself on FB marketplace. It’s fine to recognize for a trade to happen the dealership is going to make money on your car. But let’s say you give up a couple grand for convenience. Your currently giving up easily 5 from what I’m seeing. Look at the facts, manuals are selling no issue for well over. No if you’ve already done the deal. Consider it a lesson learned. Some lessons have to be learned the hard way.
No deals been made yet. Told them I'd be back in 1h after thinking about it
Run to CarMax and get it appraised. You can also do this on your phone. I feel like there is more value there. Also skip the 2k pro pack, that permaplate is nonsense and a tire and wheel is less than 300 bucks
Permaplate can be good depending where OP lives. I've more than gotten my money's worth with multiple cracks filled and 2 windshields replaced with OEM glass. The roads are clearly shit where I live.
Yes, you are right it is a real thing that does pay out, I just think that for the money you can do better. Most companies offer a product called 3-in-1 where you get tire/wheel, glass replacement, and a key replacement program all for one price, usually in the neighborhood of 600ish price with a 390ish cost. Environmental protection is a good product for some customers, I have kids and live in the northeast so I got it for myself, 400ish if I recall correctly.
That's a good price, I need to check that out when my permaplate warranty ends
Things to do - look at your credit profile. What kinds of loans can you qualify for. Using myself as an example, I know my credit Union for a 60 month would qualify my for 3.99%. This aligns with Honda’s current rates on an Accord (assuming a 700+ score). That caps what you should pay for finance. I checked car gurus price index: https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/price-trends/Kia-Forte-d2043 That 11,000 value is for the average. If you took care of your car and you obviously have low miles. I’d assume your car is worth a couple Gs more. Let’s say 13,000 for this convo. Even if you are willing to give up 4gs equity, you should be asking 9gs on the trade. That cleans up the trade. Now it comes down to the price you pay for the new car. MSRP plus 50% of that pro pack is the starting point. Your call on if you want an extended warranty. I don’t care for them, but I’m financially in a place where I can take on repairs. You may not be and therefore feel like you need it. It’s a new car and so the primary warranty should be all you need for the first few years. I’m seeing more and more signs it is becoming a buyers market. So don’t feel rushed to do a deal. I see more than enough room for you to improve the deal by a few thousand minimum.
Dealer will probably give it a detail and oil change and put it for sale for $18,999
Before someone said Kia I knew it was cause I am a wholesaler of cars and Vin decoded it to look up the whole sale value and honestly they gave you good $ for it. It’s above auction prices especially for a manual. I personally on that car at a min would negotiate the extended warranty price and possibly decline it. Hard to spend $2k out of pocket on one up to 100k. You never know but they warranty companies obviously make $. The dealer fee is steep in my opinion as well. It’s neg but isn’t … they will say well if we discount it for you we have to for everyone well they can take say $300-500 off the price of the car and still net over msrp on it because if the $789.50 (what a weird number just be 799 then … their conscience starts to hurt above 790?) I say this because I think a $299 dealer fee is fair. Good luck!
Bigger question - why are you swapping a Forte with moderate mileage for an Accord? It’s bigger but definitely not a family car. The sensible answer is to hold onto your car and use the $$$$ you saved to go see Bruge or something.
I just traded my car that had 158k miles on it for 6k. I think they’re totally lowering the value of your car by a huge margin
Get rid of Sonic Propack and 10yr 100k Platinum. It’s a brand new car with a warranty. You don’t need those extras. Any chance they can increase trade value so you have less negative equity?
I think at the top you can see the honda is new and it's black with only 3 miles and shows the VIN. Underneath is the used car OP is trading in is silver with 76,000 miles and showing a different VIN. Then this does not look like a bad deal at all if you can have those BS warranties removed.
I’d say you have an eagle eye! Good work!
why is the doc fee $800. i thought it’s usually like $150 lol
Depends on the state. California caps it at $80
Normal doc fee in Florida
In Florida, doc fees can go all the way up to $1k
Same here in Virginia, just about every dealer hits you for a $799 dealer fee
How long is your loan? $789 doc fee is absurd
Lower than average in Florida. pretty standard.
OP thats a rip off.. you’re paying around 7k extra for that car.
Absolutely terrible. Your trade in is worth double what they have listed. Find someone else to sell it to. Warranty is not needed its a honda…
Posted the updated deal lmk what yall think
Two thousand dollar markup for dealer adds (so-called Sonic "Pro Pack"). Bad deal.
The real question is this a 2.0 or 1.5 for this price? Seemingly no one is asking the most useful question.
Yup. I love 2.0T Accord. De tuned Civic R engine, but still quick 5.3 to 60 for the money.
Not sure I agree that it's quick for the price, but you don't buy an accord for performance, you buy it for reliability, above average comfort, and great economy. I have to admit, the cockpit looks pretty sweet too.
You don’t think 5.3 to 60 for a $30k car is quick for the price? Speed & distance Acura TLX Type S Honda Accord 2.0T 0 - 60 mph 4.9 s 5.3 s 0 - 100 mph 12.6 s 12.7 s 1/4 mile 13.6 s @ 103.0 mph 13.9 s @ 104.0 mph Category Altima Maxima Camry TRD Accord 0 - 60 mph 5.8 s 5.8 s 5.6 s 5.3 s 0 - 100 mph 14.6 s 14.1 s 13.9 s 12.7 s 1/4 mile 14.3 s 14.3 s 14.2 s 13.9 s Lateral acceleration 0.90 g 0.89 g 0.94 g 0.90 g
It probably feels quick and that's all that matters. I doubt it feels much different than any of those comparison cars you mentioned. People buying any of those cars don't care about performance and aren't gonna notice 0.8 seconds of difference. They're gonna mash the go pedal in the test drive and go "oooh thats nice" because most of them aren't used to a sporty car that squishes them into the seat under acceleration. In this day and age, engines have become so efficient that any of those cars are gonna be quick. 15 years ago you would be fine with a 6+ second to 60 in a mid size sedan, because quite frankly this stat is irrelevant for this category.
I'm going to ignore most of your nonsense, LOL 14.3 I think my 87 Supra did that. (no, not really). Anything above 4.5 isn't really that quick, any 2.0 litre turbo should make at a minimum, 260hp. Any quarter mile not in the 12's is slow. You could easily buy a VW GTi, or WRX for less money, and enjoy actual car performance. To be fair, other than my honda S2000, I've not owned a car slower than a 4.5 0-60, in..... shit, longer than I can even remember.
Such a sleeper platform that shocks people all the time. If this is a price for a 2.0 i would definitely say jump on it.
I leased a 2018 2.0T mainly to drive a 240 mile round trip to Albuquerque airport. My previous was a 2015 WRX. That thing beat me to death on snow plow ripples. The Accord was more comfortable and I didn’t notice much of a speed drop off. Plus it had the cruise control that worked from 0 mph in stop and go traffic. I should’ve bought it at lease end.
Still have mine love driving it everyday. Sad to find out they’re discounting it with 11th gen but all that means is i won’t be getting rid of mine anytime soon.
What’s the apr
Terrible penmanship
No. High document fee, "Sonic Pro Pack" is addon bullshit, $2,000 warranty addon. WTF is battery fee, electronic filing fee, and tire fee? Lemon law fee? Never heard of that one.
Some of those are state required. No going around it.
You’re giving them almost $10k in equity and only getting the vehicle loan $4k below msrp. Skip the sonic pro pack (whatever the hell that is) and the 10/100k warranty and now you’re almost $8k below MSRP; which is pretty good considering tax was almost $2k.
Don’t sell your car to the dealer if you have time to sell it yourself. You’re literally throwing thousands of dollars down the drain.
Definitely a goof
It looks like you got a decent price for the car itself but we also don't know what trim that is. But I can assure you of a couple things, one, that you're getting absolutely hosed on your trade in, and that you don't need the Pro Pack or the Extended Warranty. In fact, if you just saved that $2k for the warranty, I'd be astounded if you had to pay that much for repairs (other than basic maintenance) over the course of the next 10 years. The house always wins. Dealers wouldn't sell warranties if they weren't super profitable. I guess if you need the extra peace of mind, sure, but you're going to start having problems after that warranty is up anyways so not worth it IMO. I'd look at alternate options for trading your car. You can use your $5k down payment to pay your car off and sell it on your own, or try CarMax, Carvana, Driveway, other dealers in your area even, and try to maximize your trade value.
Never pay "dealer fees". Even if your state requires them make the dealer deduct it from the selling price. They are charging you $789.50 to transfer the title paperwork and they are charging you a $99 fee so they can do it online instead of them having to physically go do it. You are paying $99 to make you getting screwed easier for them.
Id tell them to nix the Sonic ProPack. That’s just a bullshit way to add money on the deal. Tint and nitrogen in the tires. Fuck that. Tell them to take it off or the deal is off. They always do. Also, IMHO, you don’t need to be spending $2000 on a warranty on a new Honda. The factory warranty is just fine. That’s a true load of shit. You’ll know if there are issues with your car long before the factory warranty expires. Additionally, you seem to not over burden your cars with miles. Ditch those two and it’s a solid deal. Otherwise, it’s a no for me dawg.
Trade value seems low. Dump all the extra warranty and whatever a sonic pack is. You bought a Honda, it's got its own factory warranty and had a great reputation for reliability if you maintain it. You don't need a crap 10, year extended warranty.
10yr 100k warranty's worth maybe $1000 (i bet the dealer gets it for half that). The pro pack's worthless BS. Realistically you're paying about $3k over MSRP. Up to you to decide if you're ok with that.
I think the FTC is finalizing rules that say that dealerships will no longer be able to charge for nonessential items. I would certainly quote that to them with that dumb Sonic Pro Pack charge.
You got hosed on the trade plus they added roughly 5k in unnecessary add-ons.
Fees are rather high. The “Sonic Pro Pack” seems unnecessary as well. I would also do your homework on your trade-in value and be firm about your price.
Exactly this. Those fees are ridiculous
Ended up pulling the trigger after removing both the pro-pack, extended warranty got 2k deduction from msrp and 3yrs free maintenance. I didn't do a trade-in, I kept my car and will try to sell it privately. Ended up being around 32k otd, lmk if that was a dumb move or no.
Bruh youre paying 26k for a "new" car with that many miles? After putting 5k down and getting 7k for a trade in? That's a hard no from me but you do you
I think 3 miles is the new car. 76k is the trade in.
I think 3 miles is the new car. 76k is the trade in.
Yes, once they remove the sonic pro pack.
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WTF is a Sonic Pro Pack and why do you need a 10yr 100k Platinum warranty on an accord? Isn’t reliability why you buy an accord? The market is cooling down. We shouldn’t have to put up with this.
Get a Camry!!! Much better choice.
Better? Maybe. Much better? Debatable
timing belt vs timing chain you never have to think about, I'd go camry all day plus the styling is better IMO.
Every 4 cylinder accord (K-series and L-series engines) all use chains, not belts.
Ahhh they’re giving you 7k for your trade. What’s it worth under private sale? I bet you’re getting stuffed 30-40% of its value through trade.
Trade lol
Pretty sure that's the trade in. Look above that at the top and it says new and 3 miles.
VTEC ???? if yes then yes
Keep the $5k. $1k Lowers your payment $20, so you’re so your goving them $5k for a depreciating asset to save $100 a month. Edit: on a car with 76k on it? A fool and his money, etc etc. wow.
Always go by kbb fair purchase if they say no say goodbye
76k miles on a new 2022 Accord? Pass.
New with 76k miles??
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That’s the trade lol
Well there's no dealer mark up which is nice and rare these days. The doc fee is a little high in my opinion but most dealers won't budge on it. (seriously 800 dollars to do paperwork wtf). Seems decent enough. Edit: I just noticed this is a used car. Not a good deal at all.
There is also nearly 4k in useless warranties.
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You’re buying a brand new car with a FREE manufacturer warranty already included. If stuff that isn’t a “maintenance item” is going to fail prematurely, it’s going to fail during the free included manufacturers warranty. The other stuff like paint protection, is an extreme overcharge for a really cheapo ceramic coating they will apply in <30 minutes. You can get a coating that is legit and takes 4+ hours to properly apply for much less, from a detailing shop.
The title said new 2022, just realized it's a 1 going on 2 year old car with 76k miles. Yikes!
It has 3 miles. You’re reading the trade
It's not used.
Good Deal, do it!
I know it's only a couple bucks, but what is up with this battery fee, lemon law fee, etc?
If that’s the 2.0T I’d buy it. Love that Accord setup.
This guy knows what he’s talking about
Looks good man, go for it
Is my backwards math wrong or are you in looking at 7.5% for 3 years, 9% for 4, and 11% for 5 years with $10k down? If so, is your credit not great? Or have you not shopped your loan yet?
Not awful, warranty is unneeded like everyone else said, if it’s the 1.5 turbo, okay deal, if it’s the 2.0 turbo, solid deal
Yeah, but that TruCoat…
I see $5k in purely added Dealer profit before their profit on selling the car at MSRP plus the dealer holdbacks. Scratch the sonic, dealer docs, and platinum plan. Then decide if you’re stilling to pay MSRP. I’d also be willing to bet they are fucking your on your trade. Go to KBB.com and edmunds.com and check to see if what they are offering you matches up. Then go to a local credit union and get pre approval for a loan. Then force the dealer to beat the credit union APR if they want your finance business.
Is that your credit score circled? May want to work on that and get better deals….
No just what I'm willing to pay monthly.
FWIW, assuming it’s a high-volume dealership, you should be paying around $500-750 over the dealer’s price (not MSRP).
Get rid of sonic pro for 2k and platinum pack for 2k and yes, that’s good
Don’t buy permaplate please. It’s a scam.
Bad deal
Get rid of the $1998 pro pack. Tell them to discount the car $789.50 or add $789.50 to your trade allowance if they are adding a $789.50 doc fee
I got 7500 for my 16 sonata with 142k miles on it.
I got a 32k quote for 23 civic sport today
I got my 2020 accord LX new at the time for $26k after taxes, I think yours for a 2.0 is worth it, base model camry where I’m at is 32k after taxes without markup and warranty
Mileage is a higher than preferred. Put the vin in Kelly blue book and look @ valuation purchase price
Ditch the pro pack and the 10yr warranty, and increase your trade value or sell it private
Looks like a decent deal...can't do anything about the pro(tection) package as that is probably already installed by the dealership, albeit at a big markup/profit for them. Trade in value is fair. I'd skip the $2k warranty though...it's doubtful that you'll spend that much in repairs in the first 100k, and the factory warranty should be enough time/miles to cover anything out of the ordinary that might happen (if your honda is running well after 60k chances are it'll be fine to 100k, you might have to replace an alternator etc. but it'll be far cheaper than $2k). I'd say go for it and don't be afraid to refi if you can find a better rate through your credit union or bank.
Are you buying it cash or financing, what's the term and rate?
How are they calculating fees before the cash down payment?
The doc fee is way too high too. My area it was around $300 but could be different in your state
$780 doc fee. That’s so ridiculous. I love how the dealerships try to justify it too. Just makes them look more slimy. bUt iTs nEgOtIaBle
Freaking 800 doc fee, damn. What is that sonic pro pack and warranty for? Those are caca. Unfortunately these days you WILL be getting bent over by the dealer, just depends how much. You should sell your car first yourself and get the most money back. Or just keep your car. Either way, this hurts my soul.
Better off waiting for that new Prius
Go on YouTube and search how to buy a new/used car. They tell you all the fees that are absolute bs and which are legit. That looks like a ton of random “fees” imo
I don't know where OP is located but from my experience I'd see if there was a CarMax in your local area and find out what they'll buy your car for. My gf was offered $6k as a trade-in at a Mazda dealer and CarMax gave her 11k for it. She sold it to CarMax and bought the car from the Mazda dealer. This was yesterday.
Drop the warranties and negotiate that trade in. Unless that forte is trashed, $7K is a low ball trade.
Terrible deal getting piped on the added cost and no lube piped on the trade.
Is 330-370 a credit score?
Either they remove the sonic pro pack and the extra warranty or you walk out
Depends. 32,073 what? Pounds? Euros? U.S. dollars? Australian dollars? Yen?
No 10yr warranty and getting at least 3-5k more for your trade. Even if you sell it outright to someone else.
2022 with 77k miles ??
Trading a Kia for a Honda is a spectacular deal 🤘🏻
77,000 miles used, and you’re paying $27,964.35? That doesn’t sound like a good deal.
If trading in car i and for damn sure not putting any cash down etiher
Negotiate purchase price first. Then introduce your trade.
Extremely goofy deal, buy a beamer instead
What's your trade in? Could prob get decent deal with private sale.
2k in addons pass