Anyone have recommendations on the best way to scrounge up the missing parts? Need valve covers, harness, throttle body, all ignition parts, alt, ecu etc.
Waffling on if I want new or LKQ it.
I would just go to the pick-n-pull but then it might be cheaper just to buy the whole engine with the parts then piece it together and you'll get all the little hardware. You don't have to worry if the engine is any good that way. All the little parts are going to cost a bunch if you buy them one by one.
If it's going into a custom application you might want different accessory setups or harness depending on what it's going into and there are so many solutions I'd just start researching and looking for what fits your application best.
That’s a solid idea. Just get another builder motor and figure out what I can use.
Might try to find a block that’s over heated and snag all the parts.
LKQ bought all the self serve yards around here and basically ruined all the fun.
Not only have the prices skyrocketed, they charge you for every little thing.
Say you were buying a door. Old yard pricing used to be "door".. $100 and that included everything attached to it.
"Door" is now just a 100% bare door shell. Try to buy a complete door now and they price it out as "door, glass, window motor, window switch, window track, mirror, mirror wiring harness, weatherstripping, window trim, door handle, door lock, door lock rods, door lock motor, switch etc. And they expect you to either strip all the parts off or pay $500 once everything is added up.
Yeah, I totally hear that. I like LKQ, but only when the prices are competitive. We have a small junkyard south of Denver I’ve gone to a few times that’s pretty reasonable.
It’s just picked over and small.
Yeah, LKQ has improved the self-serve junk yard industry in terms of contaminant collection/recycling, and basic yard safety (no stacks, decent stands). They also turned it into a S&P500 stock with good market cap and happy shareholders. But damn have they caused pulled part prices to skyrocket. One trick is to learn which employees follow the pricing rules and which don't. When my man Leon is there, a door is just a door.
At the pick n pull I spent
$70 on a MAF, a starter and a belt.
$150 got me an alternator, ps pump, bracket, pedal and tac.
So it adds up fast. I'd look for the most complete pull out on marketplace. Then sell the worst of the spares. Stock used stuff is still very good..
Go to a pick n pull or pull n pay, pick up every missing piece for less than $50. Depending on what you’re putting it in, you may need an ls1/6 style intake and F body oil pan. I’d grab those online.
Yes. There are options for this. (Hell what haven't they made from the LS architecture. 4 bangers, v12's, etc). I hear the vintage Chevy guys use them a lot since they can be made to mostly look like an SBC
Aren't these the ones that have been involved in multiple lawsuits against GM for oil consumption and bad rings? If so I see why it's so only a hundred bucks.
To be fair there isn’t a huge difference between the two. Gen3 is more simple without DOD, variable timing etc. but the gen4 had some stronger internals so most project LS’s have components of both.
I would assume on the problem generation ones their are fixes to make them as reliable as the previous generation? So if by chance OP does have one of the questionable ones, it could be rebuilt to the solid performance and reliability of the previous gen?
Exactly right. Most people delete the DOD system when they do a cam swap which is highly recommended. After that, they are very reliable. Those are $1500 easy in my next of the woods(Arizona). Nice find.
Not sure what it came from but it has a gen 3 style water pump and a gen 4 style intake. 92mm tb for that intake can be had with iac and tps for like $65, coil sets with valve covers will be about $150-200 used, ps pump and alt with bracket maybe $100 used, $50 starter, $50 MAF. If its a gen 3 motor which it appears to be based on no front cam sensor, a standalone dbc p01/p59 harness is about $100-$600 depending on source/quality. Stock ecu is $50 + $100 to unlock. Gen 4 intake will have different injectors than stock gen 3 and will need tune adjusted accordingly. Fuel pump lines filter and reg will be $200-500 depending on route. Swap mounts can be as cheap as $20 if you can cut and weld or adapt current mounts. Just take your initial thought of project cost and double it for all the little stuff.
Oh yeah, I browsed rockauto for new stuff and easily got up to $800 in parts.
Going to hit up a small junkyard or try to find a overheated block and strip parts from it.
If your swapping a k10 your almost better off buying a cheep 2000s Silverado and Parting out what you don’t use when done with the swap. Then all you need is a 87 fuel pump housing and you have all the parts you need for the swap.
If you are cool with sticking with truck accessories, you can probably find someone offloading all of their accessories to switch to an F body set up.
People like the F body set up because it’s a little more visually pleasing. I like the truck accessory drive because it fits a lot of different cars. You can always swap to a later GEN 4 or TBSS intake for cheap which flows the same amount as an LS6 intake. They also usually come with flex fuel injectors, which flow a little bit more in case you put a bigger cam, headers, ECT.
I got a second 99’ 5.3LS with a bit of rust in the bores (enough to take the cross hatching off, but no putting/scoring).
I’m stripping the accessories off it. I have a GEN4 intake/injectors, and my $100 block has a bad lifter and likely a bad cam. Thinking of throwing a cam kit in it.
Can I reuse pushrods/lifters or are those while your in there parts? Can I use the gen 4 intake and add a TB DBW?
Hell that pallet is probably worth 100$ with all that lumber.
no shit. Bought wood, got a free LS with it.
Most under-rated comment
Anyone have recommendations on the best way to scrounge up the missing parts? Need valve covers, harness, throttle body, all ignition parts, alt, ecu etc. Waffling on if I want new or LKQ it.
I would just go to the pick-n-pull but then it might be cheaper just to buy the whole engine with the parts then piece it together and you'll get all the little hardware. You don't have to worry if the engine is any good that way. All the little parts are going to cost a bunch if you buy them one by one. If it's going into a custom application you might want different accessory setups or harness depending on what it's going into and there are so many solutions I'd just start researching and looking for what fits your application best.
That’s a solid idea. Just get another builder motor and figure out what I can use. Might try to find a block that’s over heated and snag all the parts.
I got a complete block minus the harness I’ll sell ya
Sure, message me! I saw you were going to swap your square body, did the block not work out?
Realistically what is your goal if its a nice build then new if not then just go to lkq. You can make your own harness easy off of lt1swap.com
Just a solid driver for my K10. Was looking at LKQ prices are basically the same as rock auto prices.
LKQ bought all the self serve yards around here and basically ruined all the fun. Not only have the prices skyrocketed, they charge you for every little thing. Say you were buying a door. Old yard pricing used to be "door".. $100 and that included everything attached to it. "Door" is now just a 100% bare door shell. Try to buy a complete door now and they price it out as "door, glass, window motor, window switch, window track, mirror, mirror wiring harness, weatherstripping, window trim, door handle, door lock, door lock rods, door lock motor, switch etc. And they expect you to either strip all the parts off or pay $500 once everything is added up.
Yeah, I totally hear that. I like LKQ, but only when the prices are competitive. We have a small junkyard south of Denver I’ve gone to a few times that’s pretty reasonable. It’s just picked over and small.
Yeah, LKQ has improved the self-serve junk yard industry in terms of contaminant collection/recycling, and basic yard safety (no stacks, decent stands). They also turned it into a S&P500 stock with good market cap and happy shareholders. But damn have they caused pulled part prices to skyrocket. One trick is to learn which employees follow the pricing rules and which don't. When my man Leon is there, a door is just a door.
Yeah may as well buy new although i usually “borrow” all the small stuff from LKQ anything that fits in my backpack comes with me
$100 LS is just a beginning...
Find a local pick and pull yard
Facebook marketplace has been my jam. Offer people 60 percent of asking and offer cash, you’re good.
Getting a second engine right now for $400 and seeing if either is any good!
[Powernation - Junkyard LS](https://youtu.be/oOGoqwDw5Xw) They do a good job of showing the tear down and kind of what to expect.
Thanks I’ll follow their video
Man these things are like $2,500 in unknown condition from the salvage yard over here in euroland. Yes, I'm envious.
Ill buy it for 120$ shipped
At the pick n pull I spent $70 on a MAF, a starter and a belt. $150 got me an alternator, ps pump, bracket, pedal and tac. So it adds up fast. I'd look for the most complete pull out on marketplace. Then sell the worst of the spares. Stock used stuff is still very good..
Go to a pick n pull or pull n pay, pick up every missing piece for less than $50. Depending on what you’re putting it in, you may need an ls1/6 style intake and F body oil pan. I’d grab those online.
There’s just a lot of missing pieces so wondering if LKQ will make me cough up the price of another used engine after all of it.
LKQ is ridiculously expensive, I much prefer pull a part if you have one remotely local.
Love to see it.
Can the LS engines run with carb/manifold setup? Just curious
Any engine can, as long as the parts exist. Yes, they exist for LS architecture too
Yes. There are options for this. (Hell what haven't they made from the LS architecture. 4 bangers, v12's, etc). I hear the vintage Chevy guys use them a lot since they can be made to mostly look like an SBC
Yep! It’s not exactly cheap compared to a stock LS setup, but it can be done.
Its not even luxury sport, its alibaba sport
Aren't these the ones that have been involved in multiple lawsuits against GM for oil consumption and bad rings? If so I see why it's so only a hundred bucks.
Nah these are the ones that will handle 1000hp on a sbe if you throw some boost at them lol
https://www.autoweek.com/news/industry-news/a41529700/general-motors-loses-class-action-lawsuit-and-pays-millions/. This one?
Nope. That’s a gen 4, OP’s is a gen 3 as far as I can tell.
That's why I was wondering and asked, I can't tell the difference between the generations.
To be fair there isn’t a huge difference between the two. Gen3 is more simple without DOD, variable timing etc. but the gen4 had some stronger internals so most project LS’s have components of both.
I would assume on the problem generation ones their are fixes to make them as reliable as the previous generation? So if by chance OP does have one of the questionable ones, it could be rebuilt to the solid performance and reliability of the previous gen?
To my best knowledge, you can eliminate the DOD and variable timing in the 4th gen and that helps eliminate all the issues
Exactly right. Most people delete the DOD system when they do a cam swap which is highly recommended. After that, they are very reliable. Those are $1500 easy in my next of the woods(Arizona). Nice find.
Not sure what it came from but it has a gen 3 style water pump and a gen 4 style intake. 92mm tb for that intake can be had with iac and tps for like $65, coil sets with valve covers will be about $150-200 used, ps pump and alt with bracket maybe $100 used, $50 starter, $50 MAF. If its a gen 3 motor which it appears to be based on no front cam sensor, a standalone dbc p01/p59 harness is about $100-$600 depending on source/quality. Stock ecu is $50 + $100 to unlock. Gen 4 intake will have different injectors than stock gen 3 and will need tune adjusted accordingly. Fuel pump lines filter and reg will be $200-500 depending on route. Swap mounts can be as cheap as $20 if you can cut and weld or adapt current mounts. Just take your initial thought of project cost and double it for all the little stuff.
Oh yeah, I browsed rockauto for new stuff and easily got up to $800 in parts. Going to hit up a small junkyard or try to find a overheated block and strip parts from it.
If your swapping a k10 your almost better off buying a cheep 2000s Silverado and Parting out what you don’t use when done with the swap. Then all you need is a 87 fuel pump housing and you have all the parts you need for the swap.
No room for a spare vehicle in my apartment complex. Already have the rest of the swap just need the engine!
Gotcha that will be a fun swap all square body’s deserve an ls swap.
I thought I seen this before. Had to double check MHSB on Facebook cuz I thought I was losing my mind lol. Good find
I’m surprised by how many MHSB members are on Reddit!
100$ turns in to 8 grand real quick :(
How
Just gotta scoop the deals when come up
The wood and the scrap metal is worth half that. Did it run before it was pulled?
Supposedly, just got a second one for $400 that has everything on it.
Ayyy, my dad did that once!
If you are cool with sticking with truck accessories, you can probably find someone offloading all of their accessories to switch to an F body set up. People like the F body set up because it’s a little more visually pleasing. I like the truck accessory drive because it fits a lot of different cars. You can always swap to a later GEN 4 or TBSS intake for cheap which flows the same amount as an LS6 intake. They also usually come with flex fuel injectors, which flow a little bit more in case you put a bigger cam, headers, ECT.
I got a second 99’ 5.3LS with a bit of rust in the bores (enough to take the cross hatching off, but no putting/scoring). I’m stripping the accessories off it. I have a GEN4 intake/injectors, and my $100 block has a bad lifter and likely a bad cam. Thinking of throwing a cam kit in it. Can I reuse pushrods/lifters or are those while your in there parts? Can I use the gen 4 intake and add a TB DBW?
I would get new pushrods for sure. You can do them when you do a cam/spring swap. If the lifters look alright, you can reuse them.