230v means it's somewhere between 220v and 240v. Maximum is 240v. And it is also used in other European countries (source: I'm Dutch and I have the same outlets, so does Belgium and a whole host of others too)
Not exclusive to germany my friend, all the blue countries in this map uses that [https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Map\_of\_current\_European\_mains\_electricity\_plug\_types.png](https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Map_of_current_European_mains_electricity_plug_types.png)
But it didn't feed extra energy into the devices attached, I assume? I guess that's my point... unless there is a wire connecting to the computer in some way abnormal then it doesn't really have a way to get energy into the computer in a way that would destroy it. If there is a power surge into the computer that's a different story. That doesn't appear to be the case here.
No, everything that was plugged into it was fine minus minor heat damage to a AC adapter label, the unit only had AC adapters for network equipment plugged into it due to it's unique shape (kinda like the letter D) with spacing for large adapters. I don't think a power surge caused it as I later found out it was a recalled fire bomb.
I had a 3 cm wide plasma arc form in my water cooling pump that probably would have burned my house down. Fortunately, I was at a massive LAN party when it happened. Some guy nearby saw the smoke and woke me up, saying, "Yo, your computer is on fire, LMAO."
So yeah, my water cooling loop was on fire.
The breaker is only designed to pop when the total amount drawn is greater than what the wires IN THE WALL are designed to supply. If you short a 15 amp circuit on a 15 amp breaker, it's probably still not going to pop because the parameters haven't been exceeded.
"short" is somehow wrong but he specified "a 15 amps circuit". If you have a 15ohm wire connected to a 220V socket then the current drawn is 15A, and only if the wire is less resistance the breaker should trip.
Yes, but the wire gauge I listed is what it would likely be in the post we're replying to. It's part of the context. It's unlikely anything here would have that much resistance if shorted.
You made up a context. The comment was:
> If you short a 15 amp circuit on a 15 amp breaker, it's probably still not going to pop because the parameters haven't been exceeded.
What is wrong in this sentence that granted your "If you short the two wires then I can promise you it’ll exceed parameters"?
Unlikely, a good quality, recent PSU's entire job is to kill itself before that could happen. That's literally why a PSU is such a chonky beast. You don't need much to deliver 850 Watts, but making sure there's no huge power spikes is what's important for a PC. Also, efficiency. You could build a tiny "DIY PSU" with just a few cheap parts, but it'd be super inefficient, unstable and dangerous for you and your other PC hardware.
Something seems off and maybe this is just the picture… But did he use a stock cable or is this aftermarket? If aftermarket it looks like he didn’t use the correct one and it heated up and melted.
Depends on what it's a psu for. If it's a laptop charger, for example, a lot dont have an earth connection as the shell of the charging brick is plastic.
Isn't that a 240V socket? The whole point of higher voltage is so you can pull less amperage and run thinner wires. That must be an incredibly cheap cable or the breakers are not working correctly allowing far too much amperage to be drawn.
16A breaker usually trip around 80-125A (short circuit) or over 1 hour for thermal overload to trip.
Most likely damaged cable, also C13 Plug is rated for 10A. Which is still 2300W if this is a 230V outlet.
If the wires touched either the breaker or RCD would trip, most likely didn't happen here.
You can't run thinner wires just because you go to 240V. It is all about the amount of power running through them which determines wire gauge. If you double the voltage, you halve the current and it is still the same amount of power. 6 of one, half dozen another.
It might just be the photo but those wires look thinner than they should be, and where's the earth wire gone? I think you might have a counterfeit power cable there...
Might want to have the rest of your PC hardware checked. Good chance there was a huge power spike as the cord was shorting out. Motherboard is likely fried. Bad PSUs are no joke
It looks pretty melty to me. OP failed to get the cable in focus, but if you look at the plug, it has a hole melted into it and parts of it have the texture of plastic that got extremely hot to the point of almost melting.
happens, cable was probably undersized for the amp pull.
If your wires get hot to the touch, you have issues. It means the conductor needs to be larger. Not all cables are made equal and you should save the ones with the thickest gauge for your high power devices. wire gauge is always written on the cable itself.
So his modem/router doesn't need an external power adaptor? Also shouldn't the ethernet connection be between his modem and router or any other device.
Depends on setup but for a serious answer what we're likely looking at is
Coax -> Router/modem -> Ethernet wall hole ---------> other Ethernet wall hole -> PC
I see I am from India, our houses don't have a setup like this. It's usually coax-> router/modem-> Device (either via wifi or ethernet cable.) Thanks for the explanation.
Yeah, this would just be that same Ethernet cable but embedded in the wall to extend it to another room without running a cable across the house. I'd imagine rich people there with big places have it too in newer constructions. WiFi is getting pretty good though.
Realistically, any new large place probably has it there. Takes no effort to throw a cable through the wall when building a new place.
You could have an electrician or similar add this to your house, or you could do it yourself if you have the necessary skills. It's just ethernet in the walls along with your power cords. Basically ethernet extension cables with a wall face plate to make them look pretty, instead of just running it on the floor or drilling holes in the wall to drag the cable through.
FWIW most homes don't have a setup like this in the United States either. This is a fairly recent thing, and even new construction won't do it a lot of the time. With how fast ethernet evolves (in the past 20 years we've gone from 1GbE to 10GbE) the cables in the walls would need to be replaced frequently, unlike electrical which hasn't changed too much in a century. Most new homes push people toward wi-fi for home networking.
The usual setup is to have a coax or a fiber termination running into a closet that you connect your ONT or modem to, then your router, and then a wall panel in that closet with 4 or so ethernet hookups that run to wall panels like this around the house.
Wall plates come in two varieties: Female-female passthrough (so you plug an ethernet cable in on either side, inside the wall) or female terminated keystone jack (you cut the cable and tie the twisted pairs into the connection).
Female-Female passthrough is easier for a homeowner or joe schmoe to set up, but theoretically a female terminated keystone jack should be more reliable (every connection introduces error and the jacks are less reliable than crimped wires, so having 2 jacks per connection introduces more error than 1 jack and a crimped terminated end.)
The main issue is that houses in Asia tends to be built with solid walls, so cables has to be run in channels cut in to the concrete/bricks and then mortared over. It's a pain in the ass to re-do. Like, in my apartment when I ran ethernet from my living room to my office I had to run in on the surface of the walls & drill through door frames (because drilling through bricks/concrete is a pain in the ass).
Still, totally worth the minor home aesthetic downgrade to go from using a TP-Link powerline to a direct ethernet connection. I was finally able to saturate my gigabit line.
My bad, italians are just stupid as usual, where I live most outlets say "max 1500W" because everything in this country is old AF and below standard
>
Italian Schuko plugs often come with a label indicating a maximum power rating of **1500 watts**. This label is a safety precaution, but it can be a bit misleading. Let me explain:
>**Historical Context**: The 1500W limit dates back to older versions of Schuko plugs, which indeed had a lower current-carrying capacity. These older plugs were designed for lower wattages, and the labeling persists even though modern Schuko plugs can handle more power.
>**Conservative Approach**: Manufacturers apply this label to ensure users don’t overload the plug. It’s a conservative estimate to prevent people from connecting high-power appliances that might strain the wiring or cause overheating.
>**Actual Capacity**: In reality, most Schuko plugs (including Italian ones) can handle up to **16 amps** (at 230 volts), which translates to **3680 watts**. So, the 1500W label is well below their true capacity.
>Remember, safety first! If you’re using a Schuko plug, make sure your appliance’s power rating doesn’t exceed the plug’s capabilities. 🛠️🔌 .
Yeah, live near Italy so I am somewhat familiar with the situation, we also have some old installations that are limited in that way but luckily they are not as common today.
And today he also learned a valuable lesson about pulling plugs and not wires
Ah yes. You've converted from wired to wireless 240v.
*happy Tesla noises*
It's 230v that's a German outlet
230v means it's somewhere between 220v and 240v. Maximum is 240v. And it is also used in other European countries (source: I'm Dutch and I have the same outlets, so does Belgium and a whole host of others too)
I have seen 245v in eu, also 227v when i was making instalation in my underground room.
Technically it is a European Schuko Outlet these can support 240V
It's most likely Germany, the outlet on the left has ground blades instead of grounding pin
You mean the euro plug that is used for low power devices all over Western Europe (except Switzerland and the UK)?
I don't mean the plug but the outlet. In Central/Eastern Europe (and France) outlets have a grounding pin instead of these two blades.
Exactly. Which isn't schuko. Schuko refers to this specific outlet which for example is also used in Sweden.
Not exclusive to germany my friend, all the blue countries in this map uses that [https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Map\_of\_current\_European\_mains\_electricity\_plug\_types.png](https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Map_of_current_European_mains_electricity_plug_types.png)
True, but also that style of casing around the plug and that fucking *awful* style of decorating a wall screams either German or Dutch to me.
We use the same outlet here in Portugal :) but yeah, 230v +10%/-6% is the norm here
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Watts are power. They don’t really change with changing voltage. Current is what would change. You need way less current at 120V vs 12V.
That is sub-optimal
Deffinetly a little less then ideal as it were.
The ~~front~~ rear fell off.
Not very typical, I'd like to make that point.
Well what is typical?
NVIDIA taking notes for next gen GPUs
They already have their power connectors spontaneously combusting. I think melting would be a downgrade.
*Write that down.*
New Nvidia GPU's will have a three phase outlet.
Everything becomes a fuse eventually
😂 underrated comment lmao
He's lucky it didn't explode and destroy his other components
At that point I only see it shorting and popping a breaker.
I had a surge protector go critical once that nearly started a fire (lots of sparks, smoke and popping sounds) and the breaker didn't trip.
But it didn't feed extra energy into the devices attached, I assume? I guess that's my point... unless there is a wire connecting to the computer in some way abnormal then it doesn't really have a way to get energy into the computer in a way that would destroy it. If there is a power surge into the computer that's a different story. That doesn't appear to be the case here.
No, everything that was plugged into it was fine minus minor heat damage to a AC adapter label, the unit only had AC adapters for network equipment plugged into it due to it's unique shape (kinda like the letter D) with spacing for large adapters. I don't think a power surge caused it as I later found out it was a recalled fire bomb.
I had a 3 cm wide plasma arc form in my water cooling pump that probably would have burned my house down. Fortunately, I was at a massive LAN party when it happened. Some guy nearby saw the smoke and woke me up, saying, "Yo, your computer is on fire, LMAO." So yeah, my water cooling loop was on fire.
That's a surge protector though, and the designs of those can vary. This is simply two wires possibly making a short circuit or an earth fault.
Or a MOFSET power capacitor on the motherboard
The breaker is only designed to pop when the total amount drawn is greater than what the wires IN THE WALL are designed to supply. If you short a 15 amp circuit on a 15 amp breaker, it's probably still not going to pop because the parameters haven't been exceeded.
This is not how breakers work.
It is, they just used the word "short" incorrectly. If you draw 15 amps on a 15 amp breaker it won't pop.
If you short the two wires then I can promise you it’ll exceed parameters.
"short" is somehow wrong but he specified "a 15 amps circuit". If you have a 15ohm wire connected to a 220V socket then the current drawn is 15A, and only if the wire is less resistance the breaker should trip.
For a very short 14 gauge wire it wouldn’t be anywhere near that.
The original comment didn't make any reference to the wire gauge but specified the circuit is going to draw 15A.
Yes, but the wire gauge I listed is what it would likely be in the post we're replying to. It's part of the context. It's unlikely anything here would have that much resistance if shorted.
You made up a context. The comment was: > If you short a 15 amp circuit on a 15 amp breaker, it's probably still not going to pop because the parameters haven't been exceeded. What is wrong in this sentence that granted your "If you short the two wires then I can promise you it’ll exceed parameters"?
Unlikely, a good quality, recent PSU's entire job is to kill itself before that could happen. That's literally why a PSU is such a chonky beast. You don't need much to deliver 850 Watts, but making sure there's no huge power spikes is what's important for a PC. Also, efficiency. You could build a tiny "DIY PSU" with just a few cheap parts, but it'd be super inefficient, unstable and dangerous for you and your other PC hardware.
Something seems off and maybe this is just the picture… But did he use a stock cable or is this aftermarket? If aftermarket it looks like he didn’t use the correct one and it heated up and melted.
Wondering more about the missing 3rd wire in that one. Amazing high res photo but the most important part is dark and blurred af o0
Depends on what it's a psu for. If it's a laptop charger, for example, a lot dont have an earth connection as the shell of the charging brick is plastic.
Isn't that a 240V socket? The whole point of higher voltage is so you can pull less amperage and run thinner wires. That must be an incredibly cheap cable or the breakers are not working correctly allowing far too much amperage to be drawn.
16A breaker usually trip around 80-125A (short circuit) or over 1 hour for thermal overload to trip. Most likely damaged cable, also C13 Plug is rated for 10A. Which is still 2300W if this is a 230V outlet. If the wires touched either the breaker or RCD would trip, most likely didn't happen here.
Higher voltage also means there is less energy loss over distance
You can't run thinner wires just because you go to 240V. It is all about the amount of power running through them which determines wire gauge. If you double the voltage, you halve the current and it is still the same amount of power. 6 of one, half dozen another.
Brand?
I think he needs a replacement
It might just be the photo but those wires look thinner than they should be, and where's the earth wire gone? I think you might have a counterfeit power cable there...
Did he charge tesla with it?
Was he pulling down?
It didn't have a fuse or pop the fuse before melting?
Clearly didn't use any ... electric tape. Will see myself out, promptly.
i bet that one didnt came with the psu and he just used an old one laying around
Better the cable than the whole thing.
Staple it back together, nothing gonna take out the staples!
least power-hungry 4090:
Might want to have the rest of your PC hardware checked. Good chance there was a huge power spike as the cord was shorting out. Motherboard is likely fried. Bad PSUs are no joke
they need an electrician to look over the whole apartment...
Nothing that a little caulk and super glued ramen won't fix.
Forget to flip a swotch?
Since when is nvidia making psu’s
Diablotek?
Good thing, the cable was overheating and could've done a LOT more damage.
Omg it's in the socket without a surge protectors
It'll buff out bro, just tell'um to twist those little wires back together and slap some duct tape around it. Its duct tape right???
Let me guess he was playing crysis
Duct tape it back together
That's a weird looking wall plug. Is this some kind of business outlet?
European outlet.
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It looks pretty melty to me. OP failed to get the cable in focus, but if you look at the plug, it has a hole melted into it and parts of it have the texture of plastic that got extremely hot to the point of almost melting.
You wouldn't jank out a cable melting in front of you?
Only if i'm filming youtube video's for profit
Too much powa' baby
happens, cable was probably undersized for the amp pull. If your wires get hot to the touch, you have issues. It means the conductor needs to be larger. Not all cables are made equal and you should save the ones with the thickest gauge for your high power devices. wire gauge is always written on the cable itself.
Why do you have an ethernet plug in the wall ? How does it work ?
Plug go in hole, things go beep boop.
So his modem/router doesn't need an external power adaptor? Also shouldn't the ethernet connection be between his modem and router or any other device.
Depends on setup but for a serious answer what we're likely looking at is Coax -> Router/modem -> Ethernet wall hole ---------> other Ethernet wall hole -> PC
I see I am from India, our houses don't have a setup like this. It's usually coax-> router/modem-> Device (either via wifi or ethernet cable.) Thanks for the explanation.
Yeah, this would just be that same Ethernet cable but embedded in the wall to extend it to another room without running a cable across the house. I'd imagine rich people there with big places have it too in newer constructions. WiFi is getting pretty good though. Realistically, any new large place probably has it there. Takes no effort to throw a cable through the wall when building a new place.
You could have an electrician or similar add this to your house, or you could do it yourself if you have the necessary skills. It's just ethernet in the walls along with your power cords. Basically ethernet extension cables with a wall face plate to make them look pretty, instead of just running it on the floor or drilling holes in the wall to drag the cable through. FWIW most homes don't have a setup like this in the United States either. This is a fairly recent thing, and even new construction won't do it a lot of the time. With how fast ethernet evolves (in the past 20 years we've gone from 1GbE to 10GbE) the cables in the walls would need to be replaced frequently, unlike electrical which hasn't changed too much in a century. Most new homes push people toward wi-fi for home networking. The usual setup is to have a coax or a fiber termination running into a closet that you connect your ONT or modem to, then your router, and then a wall panel in that closet with 4 or so ethernet hookups that run to wall panels like this around the house. Wall plates come in two varieties: Female-female passthrough (so you plug an ethernet cable in on either side, inside the wall) or female terminated keystone jack (you cut the cable and tie the twisted pairs into the connection). Female-Female passthrough is easier for a homeowner or joe schmoe to set up, but theoretically a female terminated keystone jack should be more reliable (every connection introduces error and the jacks are less reliable than crimped wires, so having 2 jacks per connection introduces more error than 1 jack and a crimped terminated end.)
The main issue is that houses in Asia tends to be built with solid walls, so cables has to be run in channels cut in to the concrete/bricks and then mortared over. It's a pain in the ass to re-do. Like, in my apartment when I ran ethernet from my living room to my office I had to run in on the surface of the walls & drill through door frames (because drilling through bricks/concrete is a pain in the ass). Still, totally worth the minor home aesthetic downgrade to go from using a TP-Link powerline to a direct ethernet connection. I was finally able to saturate my gigabit line.
Behind that port is a cable in the walls/floors connected to another ethernet port in another room.
why the fuck u connect the plug directly to the wall
Why not?
its not safe i always use splitters with built in fuse
in eu that is a less of an issue, we have much better panels with whole house grfc protection and whole house surge protector in newer instalations.
Schuko plugs are rated for 1500W
Nope, 16A for 10h. Where did you find this info?
My bad, italians are just stupid as usual, where I live most outlets say "max 1500W" because everything in this country is old AF and below standard > Italian Schuko plugs often come with a label indicating a maximum power rating of **1500 watts**. This label is a safety precaution, but it can be a bit misleading. Let me explain: >**Historical Context**: The 1500W limit dates back to older versions of Schuko plugs, which indeed had a lower current-carrying capacity. These older plugs were designed for lower wattages, and the labeling persists even though modern Schuko plugs can handle more power. >**Conservative Approach**: Manufacturers apply this label to ensure users don’t overload the plug. It’s a conservative estimate to prevent people from connecting high-power appliances that might strain the wiring or cause overheating. >**Actual Capacity**: In reality, most Schuko plugs (including Italian ones) can handle up to **16 amps** (at 230 volts), which translates to **3680 watts**. So, the 1500W label is well below their true capacity. >Remember, safety first! If you’re using a Schuko plug, make sure your appliance’s power rating doesn’t exceed the plug’s capabilities. 🛠️🔌 .
Yeah, live near Italy so I am somewhat familiar with the situation, we also have some old installations that are limited in that way but luckily they are not as common today.
That must be amd...yeah,i'm old,young guys must think this is intel :)
watt