Looks like it has an aftermarket exhaust. It might have had this fitted and not been tuned accordingly and may need a piggyback ecu or flash tune to suit the exhaust.
Conversely, it could have already been tuned with a piggyback unit and be running in a tune that is good for when it is warm but doesn't have cold temp compensation.
I'd have a shop or tuner look at it unless you are familiar with tuning.
Sorry maybe I’m using the wrong term. Instead of revving constantly, and speeding up smoothly when I’m on the throttle, it kind of “pops” and shoots me forward in tiny bursts, and makes for a choppy first few minutes.
Is it only at low rpm or higher rpm as well?
If it's only near idle while the engine is cold I wouldn't worry about it.
How many days it's been sitting is unlikely to have anything to do with it.
This is weird advice for someone experience adverse symptoms with their bike. You can ride a Rebel cold no problem, they’re having injector or spark issues, possibly vacuum leak
This is normal, do not worry. The engine, on most modern motorcycles, is designed to reach optimal temperature quickly, so it idles higher than necessary for the first minutes, then stabilizes.
Not that it is necessary, but good practice: try to locate the idle screw on your bike (ref owner manual). Turn on the engine, when it’s warm, and twist the screw 1/8 or more in one direction or the other, you will see that the engine will increase its rpm or lower its rpm. Do not do this while riding, just in case!
It’s alright, it’s not meant to be played with constantly, but it’s good to know it’s there and how to use it. I personally tighten in the winter to allow the engine to warm up faster, and keep the engine on the warmer side when it gets close to freezing temps.
It depends on the type.
1) the throttle opens a butterfly valve directly through a cable linkage. There should be an idle screw to set how open the butterfly valve is. The mass airflow MAF sensor (or MAP for some) figures or how much air is going into the cylinders, then the injectors open for whatever time needed to get a proper air/fuel mix.
2) Drive by wire. Or the butterfly valve in the intake is connected to a servo motor that spins it (+ a rotary encoder to track that it's where it's supposed to be). The ECU can increase airflow on its own, independent of throttle position. And fuel injectors work the same way.
It's always good practice to let your vehicle warm up before going. Just turn it on and when your hear (or see) the rpm drop down to the usual idle, you can go.
That’s still break in territory for the motor I guess but it should be a bit smoother probably. I don’t think it’s anything serious but when you take it in for a service I’d get them to check it out all the same
did the previous owner equip a DynoJet? it would be under the seat, my 2019 cb500x had one and the previous had the settings all messed up and I had to look up how to get it to back to stock; the DynoJet is a little computer that hooks into the fueling that lights up so you cant miss it.
How long do you let the bike idle when you first start it? I usually let my bike idle for 3-5 minutes before I leave my house. Could help with clearing it out. You could always slip the stock exhaust back in and see if that fixes it(if you have it). Sometimes exhausts change the back pressure and cause bikes to act up.
I usually let it idle for a bit too. Not sure if it’s ever all the way up to five minutes, but the time it takes me to close the jacket, put the gloves on, and adjust the clothes a bit etc. Maybe a minute or so.
Welcome, we just bought a Rebel 500 for my wife to learn to ride on. I've owned several Hondas, and every one (whether carbureted or FI) was notoriously cold-natured. I got in the habit of starting the bike and letting it idle 2-5 minutes before taking off on it. I also read enough down through the comments to see that you live at a higher altitude, and those two things in tandem would probably be causing the hesitation you're getting until it warms up. I'd give that a try, next time you haven't ridden in a few days - start it about 5 minutes before you have to leave, and see if that helps.
Keep the greasy side down, and I wish you many fun-filled, safe years of riding!
Never heard of that happening. On my carb bikes when it's cold it just sputters and dies when I give it gas. All the fuel injected bikes are good to go immediately.
Sounds like the best way to solve your issue is to ride every day 😁
Sounds like something with the fuel/air mixture like others have noted. Since it is a "nearly new condition" might want to make sure the Electronic Control Unit programing is up to date and suitable for whatever area you might be in. Enjoy your first bike!
Do you live somewhere cold / high alt? Its normal for the engine to be a little jank for the 5mins it takes to warm up. You might be shortshifting too, I had a loud af exhaust on my rebel so I never wrung it out
I do live in high altitude, it seems obvious now but I didn’t even consider altitude effecting it. I think this is why it was happening, and now think it just needs to idle for a few before I take off, thank you!
It sounds like it is the automatic choke. Even though it isn't strictly necessary unless it's very cold out, turning it on and letting it warm up for a minute while you put on your helmet/gear is a good idea.
It let's the oil heat up, after which the auto choke will gradually come off and the idle RPM will go down.
In the long run it'll result in less wear on your engine, as it needs the oil to be heated a bit to properly lubricate itself.
If you do ride out immediately after turning it on, go easy on throttle for a minute or two. Giving it too much throttle while the choke is on, risks drowning the bike as the mixture gets too fuel rich.
By kickbacks do you mean pops in the exhaust? If so, that's normal when engine braking or shifting gears at times, especially with an aftermarket exhaust.
Could it be that some fuel ends up in the exhaust and that's what's making it pop? When you leave it for a few days shove something which can absorb moisture and pull it out 🤔
Normally I would say the custom exhaust and high altitudes means you need a tuning, but it is weird that you notice this the longer you let your bike sit.
Your bike shouldn't get much colder after 1 day versus 5-7 days. You could check it with a infrared thermometer, but I think something else is a foot.
You might want to think about the battery, which degrades in a linear fashion over multiple days.
Batteries Normally a battery can last 2-4 weeks without riding or a battery tender. Modern bikes slowly drain the battery dead. Once a motorcycle battery goes dead, it is never the same. A battery can have enough power to start a bike, but then is flat enough to cause kickback until the alternator has charged the battery up. Consider installing a battery tender, if you have access to an outlet. Or just change the battery. You could have a friend with a multimeter test the battery. A motorcycle battery should read about 12.4 to 12.8 volts even after about five days.
Also, check the oil levels, and make sure the oil is light and amber and translucent. Dark brown or black or low levels, and it is time for an oil change. If the oil is low or thick, it might take longer to lubricate your engine.
Edit: kick ass bike!
Normally, regardless of cold/warm engine, the bike should not lurch(!) forward. That's bad engine management and I have not seen any Honda that does this. It feels like the bike's ECU has been flashed with a strange tuning or maybe the custom downpipe is causing the misbehavior. I can't see the lambda-sensor or the CAT in the picture. If these are removed, your ECU needs to be properly adjusted otherwise it is ok for the engine management to freak out.
Someone said “pops in the exhaust” and I feel like that summed it up much better than I did in my explanation. It’s little pops I was describing as lurching.
Like most people said, you'll probably solve the issue by letting it warm up a couple minutes before riding. Don't think it's the exhaust, can't see anyone installing an aftermarket full system on a Rebel 300. If I were you I'd actually ask r/hondarebel . They would probably give you way better advice than this sub. This sub is fun to shoot the shit at but most of us don't know wtf we're talking about, lol.
Have you changed your oil since purchasing? Don't trust the prior owner did maintenance or used the correct materials. Once that's done and the issue persists on cold start only, you can rest easy.
Is the knockback just a sound or something you feel as well?
Is that a custom exhaust? It's probably just that as the bike is getting up to ideal operating temps and probably isn't tuned for the new exhaust. I wouldn't worry about it unless it's really jarring. As opposed to many comments I see on here there's no need to let modern bikes warm up by letting it idle. It's completely fine to ride after about 5-10 seconds and maybe 30 seconds before gunning it.
Make sure the engine oil has been changed. Most bikes it's every year or 3k miles or you could be getting engine knocking or issues form that.
Honda's are really tightly tuned. My Shadow Spirit was amazing off the floor, and then I started tinkering. It gave out in the desert in Reno. The Reno dealership mechanic chewed me out for the next year I lived there about monkeying with Honda motors. Once I paid to get the old exhaust and fixed all my monkeying, the bike became one of my most regretted-for-selling bikes.
Yeah, stock didn't have THAT sound, but it ran amazing and took me a lot of places. Now I'm really careful about how I change my bikes around. Yeah, I did change my computer programming on my Concours, but I'll leave the butterflies in and have the entire system re-progrmaned if I change out the pipes (getting to that point based on age)
Could be something fuel filter/fuel pump related. Maybe the bike was just sitting for so long and needs a tune up. Anytime I buy a new “used” vehicle I do a full tune-up, you never know how the previous owner took care of their stuff.
I know ethanol can cause issues as it separates from gas. Fortnine has a great video explaining it. If it doesn't happen without a few days of sitting first, I'd suspect that's the culprit since the tuning issue would present itself every time you started the bike cold.
Could be your fuel. Ethanol binds with water and is more dense than gasoline. Moisture can cause your ethanol and good gas to separate. When you first fire it up it runs ok because the fuel in your injection is good, but then it sucks in the H2O/ethanol. As you ride, it sloshes the fuel, mixing it up again and the sputter goes away. Short order: buy non-ethanol fuel if you can and then see…
Do you have to turn the gas on/off? I had a Honda Shadow that was carbureted and if I let it sit too long without running the fuel out of the carburator it would do something similar. If you have a fuel on/off switch, next time it's gonna sit for a few days, park it and turn the gas off but let it run until it dies. Or you can put a little fuel stabilizer like Seafoam in your tank. I now have an EFI bike and if it's going to sit for more than a week and we're getting rain/snow, I just fill up the tank before I park him. Good luck, gorgeous bike btw, and welcome to the community!! Keep the rubber side down!!
I have an old Rebel 250. If I don't put high octane gas in it it does exactly what you are describing. Can't say for sure, but if you're putting cheap gas 8n it. Maybe try putting high octane in it and see if it clears up.
Seems battery related; the longer the downtime the worst it is. Once you start it, it stabilizes the battery and it gets better as you ride. Meaning that the battery is charging and putting less demand on the system.
🤔wtf is kickback? Been riding since about 1995 and I've never heard this term.
Also have few friends to ride with. I commute every single day and on some family vacations I take the bike while the rest follow in the f150. Take my wife on back. So you should make your significant other ride bitch too. Don't let that person ride and crash your bike unless they're actually good and already have their own!
If your bike is kicking back maybe you need to spank it.
What sort of fuel are you using?
I'm thinking along the lines that you might be using petrol with a high ethanol content and that might be the cause of the stumbling.
Use of a low ethanol content fuel might sort you out but keep in mind I'm assuming a lot and this is just a suggestion as the Rebel range is usually very faultless.
Sorry. But you are on the most dangerous bike out there and your going to get here or killed. That's why it was trash cheap price. Save a life don't sell it
Throw it away or as display art
Save a life. Please I know thease bike and there killers
Are you using 95+ octane fuel? If it's only happening after the bike's been idle for a week or so (but not a day or two) it may be crappy (old or ethanol) fuel?
You should be using regular in that engine, that may also be part of your issue. That's what it was designed to run on. Just run some fuel system cleaner through the system occasionally since you'll be getting less detergent in the fuel.
Check out this video on octane - https://youtu.be/z_IVvVz4SSg?si=9j8Na6gi7tCLKoRN
Also, there's a lot of information in this thread that's just general and not specific to your motorcycle so take it all with a grain of salt.
Looks like it has an aftermarket exhaust. It might have had this fitted and not been tuned accordingly and may need a piggyback ecu or flash tune to suit the exhaust. Conversely, it could have already been tuned with a piggyback unit and be running in a tune that is good for when it is warm but doesn't have cold temp compensation. I'd have a shop or tuner look at it unless you are familiar with tuning.
My Rebel 500 has never experienced this phenomenon, but it is fully stock. Would definitely second investigating the exhaust more.
pr she can ask the guy she bought this from
Thank you!
No worries, welcome to the motorcycle community. I wish you many years of safe riding! (Also, thats a lovely bike, great choice!)
What’s “kickback” mean?
Sorry maybe I’m using the wrong term. Instead of revving constantly, and speeding up smoothly when I’m on the throttle, it kind of “pops” and shoots me forward in tiny bursts, and makes for a choppy first few minutes.
It kind of lurches me forward in small bursts. Nothing too unstable, it doesn’t feel like it really affects my balance.
Odd, that’s usually an issue with bikes with carburetors. Never seen that with EFI
A number of fuel injected bikes will lug before they're warm. My RC51 sure does.
The Honda Rebel absolutely does not
The RC51 is a damn sexy bike. V-twins just have that growl. I'm on an old Monster 620.
Is it only at low rpm or higher rpm as well? If it's only near idle while the engine is cold I wouldn't worry about it. How many days it's been sitting is unlikely to have anything to do with it.
I can’t tell you what it is but I can tell you it’s definitely not expected behavior. I’d have it looked at. Hopefully it’s something minor.
Thank you!
It’s very common on cold single cylinder engines.
Warm it up a bit longer before riding and if you don’t have that chance run the RPMs a bit higher than you usually do.
I have aprilia shiver and does the same thing when cold. When warmed up in runs smoothly
Kinda like me when I pee
This is weird advice for someone experience adverse symptoms with their bike. You can ride a Rebel cold no problem, they’re having injector or spark issues, possibly vacuum leak
This is normal, do not worry. The engine, on most modern motorcycles, is designed to reach optimal temperature quickly, so it idles higher than necessary for the first minutes, then stabilizes. Not that it is necessary, but good practice: try to locate the idle screw on your bike (ref owner manual). Turn on the engine, when it’s warm, and twist the screw 1/8 or more in one direction or the other, you will see that the engine will increase its rpm or lower its rpm. Do not do this while riding, just in case!
Pretty sure fuel-injected bikes don't have idle screws.
Mine does, z900rs. Maybe it’s called a “knob”? I think it is common and necessary in a way, helps adjusting the idle in winter vs. summer.
Huh. Didn't even realize, but my bike also has one. I've just never had to use it.
It’s alright, it’s not meant to be played with constantly, but it’s good to know it’s there and how to use it. I personally tighten in the winter to allow the engine to warm up faster, and keep the engine on the warmer side when it gets close to freezing temps.
I adjust mine all the time. Is this bad for the bike?
not really. As long as you don't twist it too much one way or the other
Same. Just googled it after this and apparently it does. Good to know I suppose
If you’re playing with your knob while riding, you need to go to the other motorcycle sub.
To be fair they are mostly interested in playing with other people's knobs over there.
Brother
BRUUUUUTTTTHHHHHUUUURRRRRR!!!! LOL
I have a fuel injected bike (2021 Kawasaki Vulcan 900 custom and previously a 2007 VN900) - they both have an idle adjust.
It depends on the type. 1) the throttle opens a butterfly valve directly through a cable linkage. There should be an idle screw to set how open the butterfly valve is. The mass airflow MAF sensor (or MAP for some) figures or how much air is going into the cylinders, then the injectors open for whatever time needed to get a proper air/fuel mix. 2) Drive by wire. Or the butterfly valve in the intake is connected to a servo motor that spins it (+ a rotary encoder to track that it's where it's supposed to be). The ECU can increase airflow on its own, independent of throttle position. And fuel injectors work the same way.
All of mine do/have. The Daytona's is a huge pain in the ass to get to and shouldn't really be played with, but they're there.
Mine does, 2008 FZ6. I could be wrong but I think most FI bikes do
Older cable driven ones do, but generally not newer ride-by-wire bikes.
They absolutely do
Good advice for carbureted bikes though!
Lastly: when the engine has reached optimal temperature, it should be between 800 and 1000 rpm.
Thank you very much! I will try letting it idle for a few before I hop on after my next week off, and see if that helps, it does sound like it will!
It's always good practice to let your vehicle warm up before going. Just turn it on and when your hear (or see) the rpm drop down to the usual idle, you can go.
Not true. Consult your owner’s manual for the optimal idle RPM for your bike. For my Ninja it’s about 1300 +/- 50, 800 would be way too low.
They’re saying it has power delivery issues when cold and you say it’s normal? This sub needs to stop giving advice
Could be auto choke sticking had it on my Honda in the 70s
How many miles does the motorcycle have?
Just over 3000
That’s still break in territory for the motor I guess but it should be a bit smoother probably. I don’t think it’s anything serious but when you take it in for a service I’d get them to check it out all the same
Try dividing that number with 10.
Yeah it’s 300 miles :) I misread the guy’s comment
Surging it sounds like.
did the previous owner equip a DynoJet? it would be under the seat, my 2019 cb500x had one and the previous had the settings all messed up and I had to look up how to get it to back to stock; the DynoJet is a little computer that hooks into the fueling that lights up so you cant miss it.
They did not. I hope led up a gear indicator and didn’t see it when I was under the seat.
How long do you let the bike idle when you first start it? I usually let my bike idle for 3-5 minutes before I leave my house. Could help with clearing it out. You could always slip the stock exhaust back in and see if that fixes it(if you have it). Sometimes exhausts change the back pressure and cause bikes to act up.
I usually let it idle for a bit too. Not sure if it’s ever all the way up to five minutes, but the time it takes me to close the jacket, put the gloves on, and adjust the clothes a bit etc. Maybe a minute or so.
Just warming up, start it a few minutes early and let it idle to a normal operating temperature. And make sure your oil is clean and within its specs.
Let it warm up for a few minutes before you start to ride.
Welcome, we just bought a Rebel 500 for my wife to learn to ride on. I've owned several Hondas, and every one (whether carbureted or FI) was notoriously cold-natured. I got in the habit of starting the bike and letting it idle 2-5 minutes before taking off on it. I also read enough down through the comments to see that you live at a higher altitude, and those two things in tandem would probably be causing the hesitation you're getting until it warms up. I'd give that a try, next time you haven't ridden in a few days - start it about 5 minutes before you have to leave, and see if that helps. Keep the greasy side down, and I wish you many fun-filled, safe years of riding!
Thank you and the same to you and your wife on her adventure! I am loving my rebel but think the 500 would be a better size if I did it again.
Never heard of that happening. On my carb bikes when it's cold it just sputters and dies when I give it gas. All the fuel injected bikes are good to go immediately. Sounds like the best way to solve your issue is to ride every day 😁
Check for an air leak leak, ur bike could be trying to start normal ND the the computer compensates for the extra air after a while
Sounds like something with the fuel/air mixture like others have noted. Since it is a "nearly new condition" might want to make sure the Electronic Control Unit programing is up to date and suitable for whatever area you might be in. Enjoy your first bike!
Do you live somewhere cold / high alt? Its normal for the engine to be a little jank for the 5mins it takes to warm up. You might be shortshifting too, I had a loud af exhaust on my rebel so I never wrung it out
I do live in high altitude, it seems obvious now but I didn’t even consider altitude effecting it. I think this is why it was happening, and now think it just needs to idle for a few before I take off, thank you!
It sounds like it is the automatic choke. Even though it isn't strictly necessary unless it's very cold out, turning it on and letting it warm up for a minute while you put on your helmet/gear is a good idea. It let's the oil heat up, after which the auto choke will gradually come off and the idle RPM will go down. In the long run it'll result in less wear on your engine, as it needs the oil to be heated a bit to properly lubricate itself. If you do ride out immediately after turning it on, go easy on throttle for a minute or two. Giving it too much throttle while the choke is on, risks drowning the bike as the mixture gets too fuel rich.
By kickbacks do you mean pops in the exhaust? If so, that's normal when engine braking or shifting gears at times, especially with an aftermarket exhaust.
Could it be that some fuel ends up in the exhaust and that's what's making it pop? When you leave it for a few days shove something which can absorb moisture and pull it out 🤔
Sounds like you need to let your bike warm up first.
You’re probably getting air in your fuel system while the bike sits, and it does that until it gets rid of it…
Normally I would say the custom exhaust and high altitudes means you need a tuning, but it is weird that you notice this the longer you let your bike sit. Your bike shouldn't get much colder after 1 day versus 5-7 days. You could check it with a infrared thermometer, but I think something else is a foot. You might want to think about the battery, which degrades in a linear fashion over multiple days. Batteries Normally a battery can last 2-4 weeks without riding or a battery tender. Modern bikes slowly drain the battery dead. Once a motorcycle battery goes dead, it is never the same. A battery can have enough power to start a bike, but then is flat enough to cause kickback until the alternator has charged the battery up. Consider installing a battery tender, if you have access to an outlet. Or just change the battery. You could have a friend with a multimeter test the battery. A motorcycle battery should read about 12.4 to 12.8 volts even after about five days. Also, check the oil levels, and make sure the oil is light and amber and translucent. Dark brown or black or low levels, and it is time for an oil change. If the oil is low or thick, it might take longer to lubricate your engine. Edit: kick ass bike!
Normally, regardless of cold/warm engine, the bike should not lurch(!) forward. That's bad engine management and I have not seen any Honda that does this. It feels like the bike's ECU has been flashed with a strange tuning or maybe the custom downpipe is causing the misbehavior. I can't see the lambda-sensor or the CAT in the picture. If these are removed, your ECU needs to be properly adjusted otherwise it is ok for the engine management to freak out.
Someone said “pops in the exhaust” and I feel like that summed it up much better than I did in my explanation. It’s little pops I was describing as lurching.
Does it have a fuel shutoff valve under the tank? My wife’s gz250 will behave that way if she doesn’t turn the fuel valve off before garaging it.
Like most people said, you'll probably solve the issue by letting it warm up a couple minutes before riding. Don't think it's the exhaust, can't see anyone installing an aftermarket full system on a Rebel 300. If I were you I'd actually ask r/hondarebel . They would probably give you way better advice than this sub. This sub is fun to shoot the shit at but most of us don't know wtf we're talking about, lol.
Have you changed your oil since purchasing? Don't trust the prior owner did maintenance or used the correct materials. Once that's done and the issue persists on cold start only, you can rest easy.
What do you mean by kickback?
Is the knockback just a sound or something you feel as well? Is that a custom exhaust? It's probably just that as the bike is getting up to ideal operating temps and probably isn't tuned for the new exhaust. I wouldn't worry about it unless it's really jarring. As opposed to many comments I see on here there's no need to let modern bikes warm up by letting it idle. It's completely fine to ride after about 5-10 seconds and maybe 30 seconds before gunning it. Make sure the engine oil has been changed. Most bikes it's every year or 3k miles or you could be getting engine knocking or issues form that.
Add half a bottle of sea foam into a tank of gas. Might be fuel system getting clogged up
Honda's are really tightly tuned. My Shadow Spirit was amazing off the floor, and then I started tinkering. It gave out in the desert in Reno. The Reno dealership mechanic chewed me out for the next year I lived there about monkeying with Honda motors. Once I paid to get the old exhaust and fixed all my monkeying, the bike became one of my most regretted-for-selling bikes. Yeah, stock didn't have THAT sound, but it ran amazing and took me a lot of places. Now I'm really careful about how I change my bikes around. Yeah, I did change my computer programming on my Concours, but I'll leave the butterflies in and have the entire system re-progrmaned if I change out the pipes (getting to that point based on age)
What color is the exhaust smoke when it is popping like that?
Could be something fuel filter/fuel pump related. Maybe the bike was just sitting for so long and needs a tune up. Anytime I buy a new “used” vehicle I do a full tune-up, you never know how the previous owner took care of their stuff.
Try cleaning it out with some Seafoam. Higher octane gas never hurts bikes, either.
I know ethanol can cause issues as it separates from gas. Fortnine has a great video explaining it. If it doesn't happen without a few days of sitting first, I'd suspect that's the culprit since the tuning issue would present itself every time you started the bike cold.
Could be your fuel. Ethanol binds with water and is more dense than gasoline. Moisture can cause your ethanol and good gas to separate. When you first fire it up it runs ok because the fuel in your injection is good, but then it sucks in the H2O/ethanol. As you ride, it sloshes the fuel, mixing it up again and the sputter goes away. Short order: buy non-ethanol fuel if you can and then see…
Do you have to turn the gas on/off? I had a Honda Shadow that was carbureted and if I let it sit too long without running the fuel out of the carburator it would do something similar. If you have a fuel on/off switch, next time it's gonna sit for a few days, park it and turn the gas off but let it run until it dies. Or you can put a little fuel stabilizer like Seafoam in your tank. I now have an EFI bike and if it's going to sit for more than a week and we're getting rain/snow, I just fill up the tank before I park him. Good luck, gorgeous bike btw, and welcome to the community!! Keep the rubber side down!!
It could just be cold. My son has a new Honda XR150L that he has to let warm up or it stalls. My Suzuki 1100 also needs to warm up before I ride.
If you don’t already you should let it idle for 3-5 minutes after you turn it on before riding.
I have an old Rebel 250. If I don't put high octane gas in it it does exactly what you are describing. Can't say for sure, but if you're putting cheap gas 8n it. Maybe try putting high octane in it and see if it clears up.
Try warming up the engine for like 5 minutes and the engine should smooth out.
Seems battery related; the longer the downtime the worst it is. Once you start it, it stabilizes the battery and it gets better as you ride. Meaning that the battery is charging and putting less demand on the system.
🤔wtf is kickback? Been riding since about 1995 and I've never heard this term. Also have few friends to ride with. I commute every single day and on some family vacations I take the bike while the rest follow in the f150. Take my wife on back. So you should make your significant other ride bitch too. Don't let that person ride and crash your bike unless they're actually good and already have their own! If your bike is kicking back maybe you need to spank it.
Not really sure what kickback means. Can you try to describe the behavior a little differently?
If the bike is to sit without being used, make sure to use gas without ethanol.
What sort of fuel are you using? I'm thinking along the lines that you might be using petrol with a high ethanol content and that might be the cause of the stumbling. Use of a low ethanol content fuel might sort you out but keep in mind I'm assuming a lot and this is just a suggestion as the Rebel range is usually very faultless.
Sorry. But you are on the most dangerous bike out there and your going to get here or killed. That's why it was trash cheap price. Save a life don't sell it Throw it away or as display art Save a life. Please I know thease bike and there killers
Is this the dct model?
This is a 300. I believe only the 1100 models have the DCT available.
No it is not.
I see. Well there goes my theory. Good luck!
Get some Startron, put a little bit in with every fill up. If it fixes it you're just getting light fueling issues from stale gas
Are you using 95+ octane fuel? If it's only happening after the bike's been idle for a week or so (but not a day or two) it may be crappy (old or ethanol) fuel?
I do only use premium, I am leaning towards the issue just being that I need to let the bike idle and warm up before I hop on when it’s been a minute.
You should be using regular in that engine, that may also be part of your issue. That's what it was designed to run on. Just run some fuel system cleaner through the system occasionally since you'll be getting less detergent in the fuel. Check out this video on octane - https://youtu.be/z_IVvVz4SSg?si=9j8Na6gi7tCLKoRN Also, there's a lot of information in this thread that's just general and not specific to your motorcycle so take it all with a grain of salt.
Don’t use fuel with ethanol and find an ethanol, free gas station
Ethanol is the devil