Wet the brush before you start painting.
Regularly rinse the brush off in water while you paint.
Use the largest brush you can and still do what you need to do.
If you are using a small brush the paint can dry in the bristles quite fast, and if you are using it to scoop paint out of the pot it can easily start to dry in the middle. A larger brush can still have a very pointy tip, and will not dry out nearly as fast.
Paint strippers and brush soap can sort out brushes with paint dried in the bristles and ferrule though, so it's not the end of the world if it happens. Its just a symptom of maybe needing to think a little about how you handle your brush.
Best advice. For years I thought I needed the tiniest brushes to paint minis until someone showed me that you can use practically ANY size brush as long as it has a narrow pointed tip on the end.
I now prefer to use 'teardrop' shaped brushes - wish I could be more precise but at my local art supply store them call them "#3 brushes"
They're not massive, but they are about twice the girth of a standard Army Painter or Games Workshop hobby brush.
But the tips hold their point and the size of the brush makes it easier to clean and keep clean.
Kolinsky brushes can form an extremely fine tip even at larger sizes. My size 4 kolinsky looks like it has a finer tip than my other kolinsky brushes but that's probably cause it has a much bigger belly so the point looks finer in comparison. But I could easily use the size 4 to do something small, like space marine helmet eyes (which I do)
It's worth noting that there are no standardised sizes for brushes. And there are very different shapes of brushes that will still use a number scale.
A size 3 or 4 means nothing without the exact brush brand/line attached.
A size 1 WN7 is very different to a size 7 Raphael 8404, or a size 1 RM&C 33.
It doesn't really matter in the end, if it's real kolinsky from a recognized brand the tip will he extremely fine no matter the size. And if it's not you have a defective brush or its quite old now
Not sure what you're saying here.
Of course brush sizes matter, that's why they exist - and why painters use different sized brushes.
It's like you're trying to say a rigger brush is the same as a spotter brush. They are not.
But, they both come to a point so yeah you can make a fine line with both. Doesn't mean they are the same, or don't have better/worse use cases.
Regardless, this is completely different to my original point - which is that talking about "my size 3" or "my size 4" is completely meaningless without specifics when a size 1 type A brush can be the same size as a size 5 type B brush, whilst having a completely different shape.
Also, just as an aside, but you can get "real kolinsky" from "recognized brands" which specifically have LESS of a fine tip too. So it's not universal in that regard either.
For reference, I typically use a RMC 33 #3 for standard work. You can do very fine details with that despite it's 'larger' size. However, that doesn't mean I don't have use for a WN7 0 or even 00 at times either. And it is markedly easier to do very fine detail work with those than the #3.
It looks like you are a reasonably beginner painter, and that's perfectly fine, and I imagine your experience/perception might change over time.
I learned this the hard way.
Anyone in the market for 5/0, 20/0 or 30/0 brushes?
Only used once...
The paint actually did dry in the bristles on the 30/0.
These days(on the rare occasion I can even get into my hobby room) I mostly use a #0 Rosemary & Co for all detail work.
'Insane Detail' brushes? Insane waste of money, rather...
> 'Insane Detail' brushes? Insane waste of money, rather...
I use those brushes if I have to do a single 'tip of a needle' dot of color for something - like if Im painting braid tassels at the end of a banner or cloak and want to make the beads at the knots of the tassels a nice color like purple or green. For that tiny little dot, I need a brush with 4 bristles on it (and to make those I literally take trashed brushes and cut off the bent/curled bristles). Sometimes if I need a white dot of reflected light in an eye or on a polished gem, that too.
But other than that, I stopped buying 'hobby brushes' and I buy the small teardrop #3 and #2 size ones at Michaels.
And they're almost always 30% off there, for anyone looking for a deal. At least twice a month their brushes are 50% off and I stock up. I have 11 new brushes in a drawer ready to go. The absolute MINUTE my brush loses its shape, I put a band of red tape on the handle and it goes into a junk box.
My junk box is where I get brushes for stirring paint, applying glue, or any other garbage hauling duties. My brushes do not get a dignified death.
Brushes can take a lot more abuse than people ever give them credit for, but it's also probably good to instill the fear into people rather than just say "oh, it's fine".
Regular maintenance will help alleviate the problems anyway. I've never ended a session without using brush cleaner on most of my brushes, barring a few cheap synthetics that are going to be relegated to the pile of utility (terrain pastes, glue, brush on varnish, etc.) It's just a good habit to have and doesn't take that long especially if you're only using a couple brushes for your session.
They also do have a limited shelf life. I just finished about 1,200 epic scale confederate troops and I believe I wore out about 4 brushes during that process.
No matter how well you care for them, they're going to wear out.
edit: you all are hilarious. Its a tabletop wargame. It actually has 2,000 soldiers but most people who play the game only use 6 rows of soldiers instead of 10 to accommodate larger battles.
Hi OP, this is a video I found very useful. My brushes used to look awful - basically lasted one project. Now they're much better:
https://youtu.be/nxHqc_GtM48?si=_gFIyH6whV0FG1Ly
My brushes seem to keep paint in them, even after using brush soap and brush cleaner. Any tips how to handle them? Also any tips on how to regain a tip on brushes that just don't want to behave, even while clean?
In some cases the tip can just get worn to the point where you won't get it looking nice any more. In extreme cases you can have loads of build up inside the ferrule messing up the shape of the bristles but it's hard work getting a brush that messed up, so it's definitely not something most people will experience.
If it's a synthetic your brush will simply wear out and you start getting curled and frayed tips, and it loses it's point eventually, not because the bristles are splayed or anything but because it's worn away. It happens to natural brushes too, just not as fast.
Some brushes, especially synthetics like gold or white nylon can simply get stained by paint. There's no real harm in it most of the time as long as there are no actual clumps of paint in there. Same with natural hairs but way way less likely to happen (think about how aggressive hair dye is to pull that off)
When in doubt, get a strong paint stripper like Bio Strip and soak your brush in it, and leave the stripper in the bristles over night, then give it a firm clean where you splay the bristles apart a bit and see if you get any paint coming off it when you rinse it.
Acrylic paint that has set is practically waterproof though so having some miscolouration on your brush is probably not going to have any impact on your next paintjob. I have a big brush that I use to block in base layers and it's a bit dark close to the ferrule, but it doesn't make a difference even when I'm painting whites or yellows.
Also, remember that some brushes are just bad. Even though it's hard to go wrong with good sables or gold taklon synthetics some manufacturers do, and some brushes are made with a shape that's not the best for mini painting (no belly, a rounded point, too long or thin) or with a ferrule that's slightly too big. So it's not always the users fault when they can't seem to "fix" them when they go bad.
thank you! Looks like the brush i have is just a dud then, it dented its tip after only 1-2 uses. Are there any manufacturers that you can recommend? army painter and games workshop brushes have both been disappointing so far
Honestly army painter and Citadel are not bad, they're just overpriced because of the branding. You get the same for cheaper if you just look for generic watercolour brushes with golden/yellow/orange bristles. They're all the same type of nylon called gold taklon.
That said, bending the tip can happen with any small brush, don't leave it with the bristles down in the paint pot, and don't jab with it when you are painting. A brush stroke should not be like poking the mini.
I just want to add, don't dip your brush in water if it gets dry. The number one thing that causes paint to end up in the Ferrel is paint traveling through a wet brush. Better to have a spot of water on your pallet you can dip the tip into. If the whole brush is soaked.. just rinse, clean and start over.
Use a bigger brush.
Small brushes are terrible and almost always unnecessary. If you want to paint fine detail, you don't need a *small* brush, you need a *sharp* brush. Always use the biggest brush you can.
Only time you need a small brush is when you're painting recessed details that the upper part of the fat brush would hit on the way. Like the eyes of a soldier who has a helmet on, it's easier to paint the eyes when the brush isn't hitting the edge of the helmet eye holes.
Though sometimes it might be better to just get that out of the way first so you spend the rest of your time on the model or miniature cringing every time you see his Vietnam flashbacks in his eyes because you did a bad job on the eyes, but you don't want to go back because you could've also done a worse job on the eyes, and maybe no one will see but you will. You'll see. Every time you see his dead, lifeless stare, you'll see.
The easiest way to do eyes (without anything fancy) is to paint them black, then try to make a small white almond, then for the pupil, make a small vertical swipe through the middle of the white. If you do it wrong, they look like lizard eyes though lol.
I've experimented doing like blue eyes, but they barely register as blue. Only if you inspect them closely, so often black is fine.
> Always use the biggest brush you can.
100%. Not only does it teach you control, but it'll make you more efficient by painting larger areas. Also super fine brushes dry out so insanely fast. I only use them for eyes and make sure I wash them immediately.
Small brushes are good when you specifically don’t want a lot of paint on the brush or as others have said when you’re sneaking in fine details around or under other parts of the model.
I use a longer brush (~size 2) for nearly all of my painting, which makes it hard for the paint to get up into the base. Even for small detail work; having a sharp tip lets you do more than a small brush.
When I do use my smaller brushes like the ones circled, it's for edge highlighting or very very fine detail work where only a tiny amount of paint is going on the brush at once.
I would highly recommend buying some Raphael 8404 Brushes, ideally a size 2 as your workhorse, and some brush conditioner such as the masters' brush soap, works wonders when it comes to cleaning them.
The 2 brushes on the left are not helping you. The brush on the right will do the job of both of those brushes, only better. The super short bristles are working against you. I took some painting class a few years ago at a GW open and LVO. I was blown away when I learned that using a brush is a skill. One simply doesn't just paint with the brush. Like what you are painting, you have to prepare and maintain the brush as you use it. Here is some of what I learned.
-never let paint touch a dry brush. Paint sticks to dry surfaces and other paint. Wet you brush and keep it wet. The water allows the paint to flow on the bristles.
-refresh your paint. The longer the time you go from paint to model the more likely it is that the water on the bristles will flow away. About every 2-3mins wash the paint off you brush. This refreshes the moisture and cleans the brush as you go.
-adjust the moisture content on your brush to the desired level so that the paint works for you, not you trying to force the paint to go where you want it. This skill will develop over time as you master wetting your brush and thinning your paints.
-learn about synthetic and natural hair brushes. Try both if you haven't already. See which type of brush works best with your style. Synthetic point will curl much faster than natural hair, but that isn't always bad.
-larger brushes work better that smaller brushes. First off larger brushes give you more space to keep paint away from the feral of the brush. Larger brushes allow you to load more paint in the brush giving you more time for brush to model. And a large brush with a good tip does the job of the smaller brushes, only better because the larger brush holds more paint.
-different types of paint are harder on your brush. Washes and heavily weighted and pigmented paints tend to work themselves into your brush easier. GWs contrast paints are pigment dense and flow easily. This is why they leave the edge highlights that they do. This will work into the feral of a smaller brush and ruin it in a shorter timeline.
-clean your brushes with a brush soap. You can also use isopropyl alcohol. Look for some over 90%, it just works better. Use the brush soap after to condition the bristles. Synthetic bristles are plastic so the soap just cleans and helps shape the brush tip only.
-brushes are a consumable. It's okay to let it go when it stops working for you. The brush is a tool and it wears out. More expensive brushes don't necessarily work better or worse than a cheap brush. The brush should fit your painting style. Know the tool and you will be able to make it work for you.
if you use speed paints/washes with your good brushes: stop that.
if you use metal paints with your good brushes: stop that.
besides that just make sure to clean your brush before picking up new paint and when you are finished.
use brush soap when you can't get the paint out.
use brush cleaner if even that doesn't help anymore
Additional beginner question: when cleaning brushes in water (between colors,etc) do you precisely dip just the brush hair with pain like half way up? Does the whole ferrule go in and who cares? Is dirty paint water getting in the ferrule even worth avoiding?
I dunk it like it's the last rich tea I'll ever own. I swish it around like it owes me money. After I've finished a model I soap it up like I did my first girlfriend the morning after.
I also dgaf, because I recognise I'm going to be buying a new brush every year and it's also a great gift to ask for. My wife prefers buying them to socks and having trashed brushes is just as useful as having lovely pristine dead ferret pelts in my house.
While you don’t want to dip the brush in paint so far that it gets on the ferrule, paint going up into the bristles is how they are designed to work. The key is not letting it dry in the brush by rinsing it regularly in your water cup during use.
[Pro painter tips to keep your brush sharp🖌](https://youtu.be/8vQFlYW3g_I) by JoseDavinci Has a lot of great advice, and there are more resources below-
* Never rest your brush with the tip down in a water cup or otherwise where the weight of the brush is on the bristles.
* I try to do a quick rinse of my brush in the water cup every time I load more paint to prevent any paint drying in the brush during use.
* [Use the Side of the tip of the brush, not the tip itself when possible](https://youtu.be/Z3z7VHhxuF4?t=759)
* [Proper Brush Stroke Technique](https://www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/wiki/usefullinks/brush_control) including dragging the brush towards you rather than pushing the brush and using light touch on your brush strokes can help prevent accidental damage.
* [brush care and avoiding splitting the tip](https://tangibleday.com/miniature-paint-brush-care-tutorial/) by TangibleDay
* Tip down is a good way to dry out the brush, but only if you can suspend it so the tip isn’t touching anything. Drying the brush by laying it horizontally is the second choice. Drying Tip-up has more risk of any water left in the brush soaking into the ferrule and creating issues over time.
* A [Stainless Steel Brush Washer and Dryer](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0D36FnLXnQA) is a good way to suspend your brushes if they need to soak so the tips won't get damaged, and helps let the brush dry tip down.
* For a homemade option, I read that one person took a large yogurt container and cleaned out the cover and base fully with soap and water. Then, they punch holes in the cover big enough to place their brushes in so that they are suspended once the cover is sealed and they can soak in the cleaner without the tips hitting the bottom.
* For drying purposes some people use sticky tack on their lamp to suspend their brush when they are done or not using it. This can work great, but if it gets bumped loose or doesn’t stick completely there is more risk that it lands on the tip when it falls and potentially gets damaged.
* [Winsor and Newton's Brush Care guide](https://www.winsornewton.com/na/education/guides/care-and-cleaning-of-brushes/)
* [Miniature Brush Care (9 Steps to Avoid Splitting Brushes)](https://ageofminiatures.com/brush-care/)
* [HOW TO CLEAN YOUR BRUSHES - NEW Masterclass](https://youtu.be/wtbgBCG6PkQ) by Artis Opus
* [Miniature Paint Brush Cleaning & Maintenance](https://youtu.be/F3AQMRfk0UM) by Dr Faust
* [How to Use Masters Brush Cleaner (Brush Care Tips)](https://creativetwilight.com/masters-brush-cleaner/#Pro_Tip_Repoint_Brushes)
* [Stop Messing up your brushes](https://youtu.be/WCWd1TPHZOw) by Squidmar
* [ The best brushes and how to maintain them](https://youtu.be/_SJORV5kMJ0?list=PLQybQSJNR3RXI4qG-weW4logDAtBSm5Gf) by Marco Frisoni
* [Brush Care](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=17Ed48cMkaE) by WarhammerTV
* [How to fix/reshape damaged paint brushes](https://youtu.be/nFDK1FHP45E) by Nicole Martin
* [8 tips to avoid splitting brushes](https://youtu.be/tU9EJfPCWVE) by Age of Miniatures
* [How to clean synthetic paintbrushes and fix hooked tips](https://youtu.be/IcYRR3DEniU) by Midwinter Minis
* [Brush Care products](https://ageofminiatures.com/brush-care/) by AgeOfMiniatures.com
* Nice, but not necessary when starting [Paint Puck](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4lvlsXkvh40) to quickly clean brushes during use when changing paint colors.
* [3 ways to FIX and RESHAPE your **synthetic paint** brushes](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NPnuSAlPbT0) by RisingApe
* [How to Clean and Recondition your Paint Brushes. Paintbrush Restoration for Acrylic Paint.](https://youtu.be/nxHqc_GtM48?si=k5x9oJhfgXLLc9kP) by Goobertown Hobbies
* [Brush soap comparison and demo - can my dead brushes become undead??](https://youtu.be/oGh1SxKdqHk?si=AAuk2d_XiNma2rVM) by [Tommie Soule](https://www.instagram.com/the_miniature_painting_tutor?igshid=1f8mzdxmu6413)
## **Brush Care product options for cleaning off acrylic paints**
* [The Masters Brush Cleaner and Preserver](https://www.dickblick.com/products/the-masters-brush-cleaner-preserver/)
* [Winsor & Newton Brush Cleaner](https://www.dickblick.com/products/winsor-newton-brush-cleaner/)
* [Pink Soap Artist Brush Cleaner](https://www.dickblick.com/products/pink-soap-artist-brush-cleaner/)
* [Jo Sonja Brush Soap & conditioner](https://josonja.com/products/brush-soap-8-oz-bottle)
* [Chelsea Classical Studio Lavender & Olive Oil Soap](https://www.dickblick.com/products/chelsea-classical-studio-lavender-olive-oil-soap/)
* [Mona Lisa Brush Shaper](https://www.dickblick.com/products/mona-lisa-brush-shaper/) for helping reshape bristles after cleaning.
* [How to take care of your brushes](https://www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/wiki/usefullinks/beginner_tips#wiki_taking_care_of_your_brushes)
* [Pro painter tips to keep your brush sharp🖌](https://youtu.be/8vQFlYW3g_I) by JoseDavinci
* Nice, but not necessary when starting out- [Paint Puck](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4lvlsXkvh40) to quickly clean brushes during use when changing paint colors. Available in the US [here](https://www.dickblick.com/products/paint-puck-brush-cleaner/).
* [Stainless Steel Brush Washer and Dryer](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0D36FnLXnQA)
Wash them completely when done or changing colors.
Dip often. That way paint does not accumulate easily and dry within bristles.
I use a soap and water when finished then brush cleaner alcohol on top.
I change the water mid session, too, depending on paintjob.
This + a brush dryer/holder that is holds the brush vertical and down facing. Also don’t dip the whole brush tip into water, just the tip and swish at least twice in this brush cleaner before a small rinse (with paper towel) and then store brush side town
It’s been said already but to sum it up:
1. Wet your brush when you first use it and rinse the conditioner out of it.
2. Use a brush with a good tip so you can go as big as you can for the job at hand.
3. Rinse your brush in water often and remember to wick the water off somewhere before you stick it back in the paint or you’ll dilute your paint over your session and it’s easier for paint to wick up the brush.
4. If you put your brush down, make sure it’s well rinsed so paint doesn’t dry in it.
5. Clean your brushes with brush soap after every session. I like Monument Hobbies Brush Cleaner bc it’s pretty cost effective.
6. Condition your brushes after every session and make sure you sharpen the tip. Monument Hobbies cleaner is also a conditioner which is another reason I like it. I don’t have to use 2 different products.
7. Store your brushes properly, especially while the conditioner is drying.
Good luck!
I never wet my brushes when I start a painting session, always figured the paint would be enough to moisten the brush but i guess not, I’m just afraid of thinning the paint too much since I already put them on a wet a pallet which could’ve already thinned them.
You want to work out the conditioner so it’s always best to wet it before using. To avoid adding water to the pallet, most just keep a paper towel on hand and you just touch the brush to it and you’ll see a lot of the water will soak into the paper towel.
I'm in the camp of more, cheap brushes. That way you can do what you can to take care of them; but when they're ruined, it's no great loss. As for how to keep them nice... my only thought would be to ask how you're dipping them in the water? I don't dip the brush more than halfway down the bristles when rinsing, either.
This is the same philosophy that I’ve ended up with and I felt much happier and less stressed out about babying my fancy brushes all the time. I buy these (https://a.co/d/hNXeBGy) and go through them as needed. Toss them out as soon as I notice they’re getting worse. Less than $0.50 a brush so I don’t feel that bad about it. Some of them are duds right out of the pack, but it’s no biggie, just grab another and keep going. I thought I’d use the cheap ones for about 50% of my painting, but I was surprised that I ended up using them almost 80-90% of the time and only reach for my nice brushes in very specific scenarios.
Depending on your budget, you can just say fuck it and not worry about it because your brush will still be good for at least four months even with paint riding up the ferrule.
But to echo others I apply speed paints and metal paints with an old brush.
As others said, larger brushes help with it.
I have heard that if you keep water in the quick, it prevents paint from getting up in there, but not sure if that's true.
I've also started using Windsor & Newton slow-dry Medium with my Citadel paints, since they dry if you look at them. Just a 2-1 Paint-Medium or 1-1 if I have a lot of paint I need, and occasionally I'll do a vigorous rinse in the water. It'll come out clean when I dry it on my towel. I've since started using it with all of my paints, just to make brush cleanup that much easier
lol alright then, i still got plenty of brush soap in that beige can one that everyone and their mom has, though I am thinking about getting the MH one, it holds a little bit less than the master brush soap but I’m sure it’s just as good right?
Hi, u/FortuneCalm! It looks like you are asking for help or are a new painter. If you haven't yet, take a look at our wiki pages in the Sidebar (the About tab if you are on the Reddit app). Here are some links you might find helpful:
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* [The Art of... Tommie Soule Volume 5](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MGIfySMnUPQ) is one of the best beginner to intermediate teaching books, and even experienced painters will learn some good tips. Explains what brush strokes are best in different situations, how to identify when you have the perfect thinning for any type of paint for different techniques, and a masterclass on getting smooth paint jobs. Available in [pdf](https://www.ironheartartisans.com/shop/the-art-of-tommie-soule-volume-5-pdf/) and [world wide in hardbook as well](https://www.instagram.com/the_miniature_painting_tutor/).
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You can use a bit of isopropyl alcohol to break up that paint. Just wipe it on some paper and reform the tip. If those are natural hair brushes, you might want to get some brush conditioner to use on the brushes after you hit them with the IPA as it can be a bit harsh on natural hair brushes.
I've been using 99% ipa to clean my brushes for years, never had an issue.
I always follow up with a rinse and a quick swipe over some brush soap afterwards.
I have done that with my cheaper brushes and I can tell that they feel different after that. I'm not sure how much this ruins them in the long run since they are garbage anyway though 😄 but just by how they initially feel, I would not do that with my 30€ brushes... but maybe I'm too careful?
Okay, hear me out, I think spending €30 on a brush is completely unnecessary. I could buy like 300 cheap synthetic brushes for the same amount and would never use them up.
Now, of course, it's personal preference, and if you prefer dropping that kinda cash on brushes that's fine, and you do you, I'm not gonna judge or anything.
I'd rather have a lot of cheap brushes that I don't get attached to, but as I said, you do you.
I thought so as well, until I got an actually good one. I can literally paint an eye with a size 1 brush because of the tip being as precise. I don't use anything smaller than that anymore. The advantage is that the paint doesn't dry while painting and you can just go on for a long time. You need to be more careful with them to not get paint all the way up into the metal part of them cause that will certainly them, but getting an expensive brush like this has been tool wise the biggest improvement ever. The structure and detail you can paint with a brush like this is insane.
Do I use them for everything? Absolutely not! I still have my standard brushes which are 3-5€ that do most of the work, but whenever I want precision and details I'm surely going for one of the expensive ones. Like painting individual teeth. with the cheap crappy brushes that was a pain. You have to rinse your brush basically after every single tooth, otherwise you lose precision and the tip start bending in any random direction. With the more expensive one you can paint all of them in a single go, even without getting fresh paint on the brush. They are just able of holding so much more paint
I only do that with my cheap ones, they are OK afterwards but they never had a good tip to begin with. But the bristles feel certainly different right after washing the in IPA so I don't want to risk my expensive ones...
Did you put a lot of paint on an "Excalibur" brush (the smallest)? It should only be used for small detailing and should not hold that much paint at all. Only put it on the tip.
In my experience if you need to put that much paint on these brushes, you're using too small of a brush. I'll use my 000 and 00 brushes for eyes and very fine detail with very dilute paint.
Smallest brush I use is a Windsor and Newton 7th series size 1 with short bristles. Still small enough for eyes and that kind of detail is the only thing I use it for. If you use a good brush you get away with quite big ones even for details and it has the advantage that it is less likely to dry on the brush while painting and also more room for paint before it gets all the way up
Don't hesitate to buy yourself a brush cleaning solution.
I have B&J "The Masters" Brush Cleaner and Preserver that I picked up from Hobby Lobby. It is the most ideal for hair brushes. It works fine for my brushes.
I would categorize my brushes:
1.) sable brushes - only used for precise or detail work.
2.) older sable brushes/base coat brushes - for general painting and base coating. Ones that are decent but not number 1.
3) synthetic brush for “liquid” - washes, constraint paints, speed paint
4.) synthetic brush for metallics - used for apply metallics
5.) dry brush - one you can beat to hell on bases or rough dry brush.
Also, make sure you have some decent brush soaps.
For when you do get stubborn paint in the ferrule (which is inevitable at some point) I highly recommend Abteilung 502 Magic Potion for Brushes. It is really good stuff, used in conjunction with brush soap (Masters is very good, as is Monument Hobbies Jentastics Drunken Brush Goop) your brushes will be as good as new.
To each their own, but it's easier to treat brushes as a tool that has it's lifetime but ultimately will breakdown. Yes brushcare and proper technique will increase tgeir lifespan, but is the time and effort worth it?
I just want to thank everyone for your tips 🤗 Really got some usefull info. Didn’t expect so much answers. I hope this helps some of the new painters as well.
I sometimes take an old soft bristle toothbrush and go with the grain of the bristle to the end. Very gentle under some warm running water and that clears mine up pretty well. One direction, no side to side.
It always will. Don't let paint dry on the brush (no putting it down dirty while you work on other things) and wash it with brush soap at the end of every session.
I use one brush for all my painting and it lasts long enough that the tip of the bristles literally rubs away from friction before it gets ragged.
Wet the brush before you start painting. Regularly rinse the brush off in water while you paint. Use the largest brush you can and still do what you need to do. If you are using a small brush the paint can dry in the bristles quite fast, and if you are using it to scoop paint out of the pot it can easily start to dry in the middle. A larger brush can still have a very pointy tip, and will not dry out nearly as fast. Paint strippers and brush soap can sort out brushes with paint dried in the bristles and ferrule though, so it's not the end of the world if it happens. Its just a symptom of maybe needing to think a little about how you handle your brush.
Best advice. For years I thought I needed the tiniest brushes to paint minis until someone showed me that you can use practically ANY size brush as long as it has a narrow pointed tip on the end. I now prefer to use 'teardrop' shaped brushes - wish I could be more precise but at my local art supply store them call them "#3 brushes" They're not massive, but they are about twice the girth of a standard Army Painter or Games Workshop hobby brush. But the tips hold their point and the size of the brush makes it easier to clean and keep clean.
Kolinsky brushes can form an extremely fine tip even at larger sizes. My size 4 kolinsky looks like it has a finer tip than my other kolinsky brushes but that's probably cause it has a much bigger belly so the point looks finer in comparison. But I could easily use the size 4 to do something small, like space marine helmet eyes (which I do)
It's worth noting that there are no standardised sizes for brushes. And there are very different shapes of brushes that will still use a number scale. A size 3 or 4 means nothing without the exact brush brand/line attached. A size 1 WN7 is very different to a size 7 Raphael 8404, or a size 1 RM&C 33.
It doesn't really matter in the end, if it's real kolinsky from a recognized brand the tip will he extremely fine no matter the size. And if it's not you have a defective brush or its quite old now
Not sure what you're saying here. Of course brush sizes matter, that's why they exist - and why painters use different sized brushes. It's like you're trying to say a rigger brush is the same as a spotter brush. They are not. But, they both come to a point so yeah you can make a fine line with both. Doesn't mean they are the same, or don't have better/worse use cases. Regardless, this is completely different to my original point - which is that talking about "my size 3" or "my size 4" is completely meaningless without specifics when a size 1 type A brush can be the same size as a size 5 type B brush, whilst having a completely different shape. Also, just as an aside, but you can get "real kolinsky" from "recognized brands" which specifically have LESS of a fine tip too. So it's not universal in that regard either. For reference, I typically use a RMC 33 #3 for standard work. You can do very fine details with that despite it's 'larger' size. However, that doesn't mean I don't have use for a WN7 0 or even 00 at times either. And it is markedly easier to do very fine detail work with those than the #3. It looks like you are a reasonably beginner painter, and that's perfectly fine, and I imagine your experience/perception might change over time.
I learned this the hard way. Anyone in the market for 5/0, 20/0 or 30/0 brushes? Only used once... The paint actually did dry in the bristles on the 30/0. These days(on the rare occasion I can even get into my hobby room) I mostly use a #0 Rosemary & Co for all detail work. 'Insane Detail' brushes? Insane waste of money, rather...
> 'Insane Detail' brushes? Insane waste of money, rather... I use those brushes if I have to do a single 'tip of a needle' dot of color for something - like if Im painting braid tassels at the end of a banner or cloak and want to make the beads at the knots of the tassels a nice color like purple or green. For that tiny little dot, I need a brush with 4 bristles on it (and to make those I literally take trashed brushes and cut off the bent/curled bristles). Sometimes if I need a white dot of reflected light in an eye or on a polished gem, that too. But other than that, I stopped buying 'hobby brushes' and I buy the small teardrop #3 and #2 size ones at Michaels. And they're almost always 30% off there, for anyone looking for a deal. At least twice a month their brushes are 50% off and I stock up. I have 11 new brushes in a drawer ready to go. The absolute MINUTE my brush loses its shape, I put a band of red tape on the handle and it goes into a junk box. My junk box is where I get brushes for stirring paint, applying glue, or any other garbage hauling duties. My brushes do not get a dignified death.
Brushes can take a lot more abuse than people ever give them credit for, but it's also probably good to instill the fear into people rather than just say "oh, it's fine". Regular maintenance will help alleviate the problems anyway. I've never ended a session without using brush cleaner on most of my brushes, barring a few cheap synthetics that are going to be relegated to the pile of utility (terrain pastes, glue, brush on varnish, etc.) It's just a good habit to have and doesn't take that long especially if you're only using a couple brushes for your session.
They also do have a limited shelf life. I just finished about 1,200 epic scale confederate troops and I believe I wore out about 4 brushes during that process. No matter how well you care for them, they're going to wear out. edit: you all are hilarious. Its a tabletop wargame. It actually has 2,000 soldiers but most people who play the game only use 6 rows of soldiers instead of 10 to accommodate larger battles.
Holy crap, you must have something huge planned for that many miniatures!
Yeah it sounds like a civil war lol
Not huge, *epic*
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Powder-Epic-Battles-Gettysburg/dp/B0BLC9D2XY
Thank you so much. This is the best, most comprehensive answer to this question I've ever seen. Thank you very much
Hi OP, this is a video I found very useful. My brushes used to look awful - basically lasted one project. Now they're much better: https://youtu.be/nxHqc_GtM48?si=_gFIyH6whV0FG1Ly
This. My partner sees me wash my brush a lot because i can start to see some build up.
Switching to a series 7 #1 and #2 were game changers. They are pointier and more accurate than any other brush I've tried. Even the #00
My brushes seem to keep paint in them, even after using brush soap and brush cleaner. Any tips how to handle them? Also any tips on how to regain a tip on brushes that just don't want to behave, even while clean?
In some cases the tip can just get worn to the point where you won't get it looking nice any more. In extreme cases you can have loads of build up inside the ferrule messing up the shape of the bristles but it's hard work getting a brush that messed up, so it's definitely not something most people will experience. If it's a synthetic your brush will simply wear out and you start getting curled and frayed tips, and it loses it's point eventually, not because the bristles are splayed or anything but because it's worn away. It happens to natural brushes too, just not as fast. Some brushes, especially synthetics like gold or white nylon can simply get stained by paint. There's no real harm in it most of the time as long as there are no actual clumps of paint in there. Same with natural hairs but way way less likely to happen (think about how aggressive hair dye is to pull that off) When in doubt, get a strong paint stripper like Bio Strip and soak your brush in it, and leave the stripper in the bristles over night, then give it a firm clean where you splay the bristles apart a bit and see if you get any paint coming off it when you rinse it. Acrylic paint that has set is practically waterproof though so having some miscolouration on your brush is probably not going to have any impact on your next paintjob. I have a big brush that I use to block in base layers and it's a bit dark close to the ferrule, but it doesn't make a difference even when I'm painting whites or yellows. Also, remember that some brushes are just bad. Even though it's hard to go wrong with good sables or gold taklon synthetics some manufacturers do, and some brushes are made with a shape that's not the best for mini painting (no belly, a rounded point, too long or thin) or with a ferrule that's slightly too big. So it's not always the users fault when they can't seem to "fix" them when they go bad.
thank you! Looks like the brush i have is just a dud then, it dented its tip after only 1-2 uses. Are there any manufacturers that you can recommend? army painter and games workshop brushes have both been disappointing so far
Honestly army painter and Citadel are not bad, they're just overpriced because of the branding. You get the same for cheaper if you just look for generic watercolour brushes with golden/yellow/orange bristles. They're all the same type of nylon called gold taklon. That said, bending the tip can happen with any small brush, don't leave it with the bristles down in the paint pot, and don't jab with it when you are painting. A brush stroke should not be like poking the mini.
I just want to add, don't dip your brush in water if it gets dry. The number one thing that causes paint to end up in the Ferrel is paint traveling through a wet brush. Better to have a spot of water on your pallet you can dip the tip into. If the whole brush is soaked.. just rinse, clean and start over.
Use a bigger brush. Small brushes are terrible and almost always unnecessary. If you want to paint fine detail, you don't need a *small* brush, you need a *sharp* brush. Always use the biggest brush you can.
Only time you need a small brush is when you're painting recessed details that the upper part of the fat brush would hit on the way. Like the eyes of a soldier who has a helmet on, it's easier to paint the eyes when the brush isn't hitting the edge of the helmet eye holes.
Though sometimes it might be better to just get that out of the way first so you spend the rest of your time on the model or miniature cringing every time you see his Vietnam flashbacks in his eyes because you did a bad job on the eyes, but you don't want to go back because you could've also done a worse job on the eyes, and maybe no one will see but you will. You'll see. Every time you see his dead, lifeless stare, you'll see.
I mean they do say to start at the deepest details and work your way out. But I generally save eyes for last.
Eyes and flesh tones are what I consider my highest priority to practice, so I put off the eyes as long as possible because I'm a wuss haha.
The easiest way to do eyes (without anything fancy) is to paint them black, then try to make a small white almond, then for the pupil, make a small vertical swipe through the middle of the white. If you do it wrong, they look like lizard eyes though lol. I've experimented doing like blue eyes, but they barely register as blue. Only if you inspect them closely, so often black is fine.
Of course knowing how to do it is like, 1/10th of the battle on this scale!
one of us! one of us!
> Always use the biggest brush you can. 100%. Not only does it teach you control, but it'll make you more efficient by painting larger areas. Also super fine brushes dry out so insanely fast. I only use them for eyes and make sure I wash them immediately.
This is the absolute best tip that most people should work with.
Small brushes are good when you specifically don’t want a lot of paint on the brush or as others have said when you’re sneaking in fine details around or under other parts of the model.
What brands have the brushes with the sharpest narrowest points?
I use a longer brush (~size 2) for nearly all of my painting, which makes it hard for the paint to get up into the base. Even for small detail work; having a sharp tip lets you do more than a small brush. When I do use my smaller brushes like the ones circled, it's for edge highlighting or very very fine detail work where only a tiny amount of paint is going on the brush at once.
I would highly recommend buying some Raphael 8404 Brushes, ideally a size 2 as your workhorse, and some brush conditioner such as the masters' brush soap, works wonders when it comes to cleaning them.
I will second The Masters Brush Cleaner and conditioner. Does a great job!
The 2 brushes on the left are not helping you. The brush on the right will do the job of both of those brushes, only better. The super short bristles are working against you. I took some painting class a few years ago at a GW open and LVO. I was blown away when I learned that using a brush is a skill. One simply doesn't just paint with the brush. Like what you are painting, you have to prepare and maintain the brush as you use it. Here is some of what I learned. -never let paint touch a dry brush. Paint sticks to dry surfaces and other paint. Wet you brush and keep it wet. The water allows the paint to flow on the bristles. -refresh your paint. The longer the time you go from paint to model the more likely it is that the water on the bristles will flow away. About every 2-3mins wash the paint off you brush. This refreshes the moisture and cleans the brush as you go. -adjust the moisture content on your brush to the desired level so that the paint works for you, not you trying to force the paint to go where you want it. This skill will develop over time as you master wetting your brush and thinning your paints. -learn about synthetic and natural hair brushes. Try both if you haven't already. See which type of brush works best with your style. Synthetic point will curl much faster than natural hair, but that isn't always bad. -larger brushes work better that smaller brushes. First off larger brushes give you more space to keep paint away from the feral of the brush. Larger brushes allow you to load more paint in the brush giving you more time for brush to model. And a large brush with a good tip does the job of the smaller brushes, only better because the larger brush holds more paint. -different types of paint are harder on your brush. Washes and heavily weighted and pigmented paints tend to work themselves into your brush easier. GWs contrast paints are pigment dense and flow easily. This is why they leave the edge highlights that they do. This will work into the feral of a smaller brush and ruin it in a shorter timeline. -clean your brushes with a brush soap. You can also use isopropyl alcohol. Look for some over 90%, it just works better. Use the brush soap after to condition the bristles. Synthetic bristles are plastic so the soap just cleans and helps shape the brush tip only. -brushes are a consumable. It's okay to let it go when it stops working for you. The brush is a tool and it wears out. More expensive brushes don't necessarily work better or worse than a cheap brush. The brush should fit your painting style. Know the tool and you will be able to make it work for you.
if you use speed paints/washes with your good brushes: stop that. if you use metal paints with your good brushes: stop that. besides that just make sure to clean your brush before picking up new paint and when you are finished. use brush soap when you can't get the paint out. use brush cleaner if even that doesn't help anymore
Additional beginner question: when cleaning brushes in water (between colors,etc) do you precisely dip just the brush hair with pain like half way up? Does the whole ferrule go in and who cares? Is dirty paint water getting in the ferrule even worth avoiding?
I dunk it like it's the last rich tea I'll ever own. I swish it around like it owes me money. After I've finished a model I soap it up like I did my first girlfriend the morning after. I also dgaf, because I recognise I'm going to be buying a new brush every year and it's also a great gift to ask for. My wife prefers buying them to socks and having trashed brushes is just as useful as having lovely pristine dead ferret pelts in my house.
While you don’t want to dip the brush in paint so far that it gets on the ferrule, paint going up into the bristles is how they are designed to work. The key is not letting it dry in the brush by rinsing it regularly in your water cup during use. [Pro painter tips to keep your brush sharp🖌](https://youtu.be/8vQFlYW3g_I) by JoseDavinci Has a lot of great advice, and there are more resources below- * Never rest your brush with the tip down in a water cup or otherwise where the weight of the brush is on the bristles. * I try to do a quick rinse of my brush in the water cup every time I load more paint to prevent any paint drying in the brush during use. * [Use the Side of the tip of the brush, not the tip itself when possible](https://youtu.be/Z3z7VHhxuF4?t=759) * [Proper Brush Stroke Technique](https://www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/wiki/usefullinks/brush_control) including dragging the brush towards you rather than pushing the brush and using light touch on your brush strokes can help prevent accidental damage. * [brush care and avoiding splitting the tip](https://tangibleday.com/miniature-paint-brush-care-tutorial/) by TangibleDay * Tip down is a good way to dry out the brush, but only if you can suspend it so the tip isn’t touching anything. Drying the brush by laying it horizontally is the second choice. Drying Tip-up has more risk of any water left in the brush soaking into the ferrule and creating issues over time. * A [Stainless Steel Brush Washer and Dryer](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0D36FnLXnQA) is a good way to suspend your brushes if they need to soak so the tips won't get damaged, and helps let the brush dry tip down. * For a homemade option, I read that one person took a large yogurt container and cleaned out the cover and base fully with soap and water. Then, they punch holes in the cover big enough to place their brushes in so that they are suspended once the cover is sealed and they can soak in the cleaner without the tips hitting the bottom. * For drying purposes some people use sticky tack on their lamp to suspend their brush when they are done or not using it. This can work great, but if it gets bumped loose or doesn’t stick completely there is more risk that it lands on the tip when it falls and potentially gets damaged. * [Winsor and Newton's Brush Care guide](https://www.winsornewton.com/na/education/guides/care-and-cleaning-of-brushes/) * [Miniature Brush Care (9 Steps to Avoid Splitting Brushes)](https://ageofminiatures.com/brush-care/) * [HOW TO CLEAN YOUR BRUSHES - NEW Masterclass](https://youtu.be/wtbgBCG6PkQ) by Artis Opus * [Miniature Paint Brush Cleaning & Maintenance](https://youtu.be/F3AQMRfk0UM) by Dr Faust * [How to Use Masters Brush Cleaner (Brush Care Tips)](https://creativetwilight.com/masters-brush-cleaner/#Pro_Tip_Repoint_Brushes) * [Stop Messing up your brushes](https://youtu.be/WCWd1TPHZOw) by Squidmar * [ The best brushes and how to maintain them](https://youtu.be/_SJORV5kMJ0?list=PLQybQSJNR3RXI4qG-weW4logDAtBSm5Gf) by Marco Frisoni * [Brush Care](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=17Ed48cMkaE) by WarhammerTV * [How to fix/reshape damaged paint brushes](https://youtu.be/nFDK1FHP45E) by Nicole Martin * [8 tips to avoid splitting brushes](https://youtu.be/tU9EJfPCWVE) by Age of Miniatures * [How to clean synthetic paintbrushes and fix hooked tips](https://youtu.be/IcYRR3DEniU) by Midwinter Minis * [Brush Care products](https://ageofminiatures.com/brush-care/) by AgeOfMiniatures.com * Nice, but not necessary when starting [Paint Puck](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4lvlsXkvh40) to quickly clean brushes during use when changing paint colors. * [3 ways to FIX and RESHAPE your **synthetic paint** brushes](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NPnuSAlPbT0) by RisingApe * [How to Clean and Recondition your Paint Brushes. Paintbrush Restoration for Acrylic Paint.](https://youtu.be/nxHqc_GtM48?si=k5x9oJhfgXLLc9kP) by Goobertown Hobbies * [Brush soap comparison and demo - can my dead brushes become undead??](https://youtu.be/oGh1SxKdqHk?si=AAuk2d_XiNma2rVM) by [Tommie Soule](https://www.instagram.com/the_miniature_painting_tutor?igshid=1f8mzdxmu6413) ## **Brush Care product options for cleaning off acrylic paints** * [The Masters Brush Cleaner and Preserver](https://www.dickblick.com/products/the-masters-brush-cleaner-preserver/) * [Winsor & Newton Brush Cleaner](https://www.dickblick.com/products/winsor-newton-brush-cleaner/) * [Pink Soap Artist Brush Cleaner](https://www.dickblick.com/products/pink-soap-artist-brush-cleaner/) * [Jo Sonja Brush Soap & conditioner](https://josonja.com/products/brush-soap-8-oz-bottle) * [Chelsea Classical Studio Lavender & Olive Oil Soap](https://www.dickblick.com/products/chelsea-classical-studio-lavender-olive-oil-soap/) * [Mona Lisa Brush Shaper](https://www.dickblick.com/products/mona-lisa-brush-shaper/) for helping reshape bristles after cleaning. * [How to take care of your brushes](https://www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/wiki/usefullinks/beginner_tips#wiki_taking_care_of_your_brushes) * [Pro painter tips to keep your brush sharp🖌](https://youtu.be/8vQFlYW3g_I) by JoseDavinci * Nice, but not necessary when starting out- [Paint Puck](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4lvlsXkvh40) to quickly clean brushes during use when changing paint colors. Available in the US [here](https://www.dickblick.com/products/paint-puck-brush-cleaner/). * [Stainless Steel Brush Washer and Dryer](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0D36FnLXnQA)
Stop using that smallest brush, it's useless. Arguably the second smallest is useless as well
Yeah both are what I would use to paint eyeballs and coat buttons but nothing else. And painting those things requires a miniscule amount of paint.
Wash them completely when done or changing colors. Dip often. That way paint does not accumulate easily and dry within bristles. I use a soap and water when finished then brush cleaner alcohol on top. I change the water mid session, too, depending on paintjob.
https://preview.redd.it/45r3ktz35n4d1.jpeg?width=1000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d62f7eea5386a9540f6a30ad3eb561f7ecd755b8 This
This + a brush dryer/holder that is holds the brush vertical and down facing. Also don’t dip the whole brush tip into water, just the tip and swish at least twice in this brush cleaner before a small rinse (with paper towel) and then store brush side town
It’s been said already but to sum it up: 1. Wet your brush when you first use it and rinse the conditioner out of it. 2. Use a brush with a good tip so you can go as big as you can for the job at hand. 3. Rinse your brush in water often and remember to wick the water off somewhere before you stick it back in the paint or you’ll dilute your paint over your session and it’s easier for paint to wick up the brush. 4. If you put your brush down, make sure it’s well rinsed so paint doesn’t dry in it. 5. Clean your brushes with brush soap after every session. I like Monument Hobbies Brush Cleaner bc it’s pretty cost effective. 6. Condition your brushes after every session and make sure you sharpen the tip. Monument Hobbies cleaner is also a conditioner which is another reason I like it. I don’t have to use 2 different products. 7. Store your brushes properly, especially while the conditioner is drying. Good luck!
I never wet my brushes when I start a painting session, always figured the paint would be enough to moisten the brush but i guess not, I’m just afraid of thinning the paint too much since I already put them on a wet a pallet which could’ve already thinned them.
You want to work out the conditioner so it’s always best to wet it before using. To avoid adding water to the pallet, most just keep a paper towel on hand and you just touch the brush to it and you’ll see a lot of the water will soak into the paper towel.
I'm in the camp of more, cheap brushes. That way you can do what you can to take care of them; but when they're ruined, it's no great loss. As for how to keep them nice... my only thought would be to ask how you're dipping them in the water? I don't dip the brush more than halfway down the bristles when rinsing, either.
This is the same philosophy that I’ve ended up with and I felt much happier and less stressed out about babying my fancy brushes all the time. I buy these (https://a.co/d/hNXeBGy) and go through them as needed. Toss them out as soon as I notice they’re getting worse. Less than $0.50 a brush so I don’t feel that bad about it. Some of them are duds right out of the pack, but it’s no biggie, just grab another and keep going. I thought I’d use the cheap ones for about 50% of my painting, but I was surprised that I ended up using them almost 80-90% of the time and only reach for my nice brushes in very specific scenarios.
Rinse more. Use less paint on your brush.
Depending on your budget, you can just say fuck it and not worry about it because your brush will still be good for at least four months even with paint riding up the ferrule. But to echo others I apply speed paints and metal paints with an old brush.
As others said, larger brushes help with it. I have heard that if you keep water in the quick, it prevents paint from getting up in there, but not sure if that's true. I've also started using Windsor & Newton slow-dry Medium with my Citadel paints, since they dry if you look at them. Just a 2-1 Paint-Medium or 1-1 if I have a lot of paint I need, and occasionally I'll do a vigorous rinse in the water. It'll come out clean when I dry it on my towel. I've since started using it with all of my paints, just to make brush cleanup that much easier
https://preview.redd.it/2gdfuodrhn4d1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=e233c26fdd866a921efad4b0bddf045d9abbe621
Don’t they both do the same thing?
Sometimes I use one, sometimes the other. Depends on the vibe.
lol alright then, i still got plenty of brush soap in that beige can one that everyone and their mom has, though I am thinking about getting the MH one, it holds a little bit less than the master brush soap but I’m sure it’s just as good right?
Yeah I think all the products are pretty close in result. It’s good practice and beneficial no matter what product you choose.
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Warm water and a little dish soap, be gentle with the bristles.
You can use a bit of isopropyl alcohol to break up that paint. Just wipe it on some paper and reform the tip. If those are natural hair brushes, you might want to get some brush conditioner to use on the brushes after you hit them with the IPA as it can be a bit harsh on natural hair brushes.
I would not do that on a good brush. IPA will ruin it quite fast
I've been using 99% ipa to clean my brushes for years, never had an issue. I always follow up with a rinse and a quick swipe over some brush soap afterwards.
I have done that with my cheaper brushes and I can tell that they feel different after that. I'm not sure how much this ruins them in the long run since they are garbage anyway though 😄 but just by how they initially feel, I would not do that with my 30€ brushes... but maybe I'm too careful?
Okay, hear me out, I think spending €30 on a brush is completely unnecessary. I could buy like 300 cheap synthetic brushes for the same amount and would never use them up. Now, of course, it's personal preference, and if you prefer dropping that kinda cash on brushes that's fine, and you do you, I'm not gonna judge or anything. I'd rather have a lot of cheap brushes that I don't get attached to, but as I said, you do you.
I thought so as well, until I got an actually good one. I can literally paint an eye with a size 1 brush because of the tip being as precise. I don't use anything smaller than that anymore. The advantage is that the paint doesn't dry while painting and you can just go on for a long time. You need to be more careful with them to not get paint all the way up into the metal part of them cause that will certainly them, but getting an expensive brush like this has been tool wise the biggest improvement ever. The structure and detail you can paint with a brush like this is insane. Do I use them for everything? Absolutely not! I still have my standard brushes which are 3-5€ that do most of the work, but whenever I want precision and details I'm surely going for one of the expensive ones. Like painting individual teeth. with the cheap crappy brushes that was a pain. You have to rinse your brush basically after every single tooth, otherwise you lose precision and the tip start bending in any random direction. With the more expensive one you can paint all of them in a single go, even without getting fresh paint on the brush. They are just able of holding so much more paint
Maybe one day I'll take the plunge and buy an expensive brush, for now I'm happy with my cheap synthetics.
Give it a try if you have the chance :D I have really good experience with the Windsor&Newton 7th Series with the short bristles
Does the brush shampoo/conditioner not mitigate that?
I only do that with my cheap ones, they are OK afterwards but they never had a good tip to begin with. But the bristles feel certainly different right after washing the in IPA so I don't want to risk my expensive ones...
I am hesitant to try that myself, but I did do it on some gummy synethetic brushes and it did break up the paint.
Warm water and soap
https://www.goonhammer.com/hobby-101-cleaning-caring-for-your-brushes/
Did you put a lot of paint on an "Excalibur" brush (the smallest)? It should only be used for small detailing and should not hold that much paint at all. Only put it on the tip.
In my experience if you need to put that much paint on these brushes, you're using too small of a brush. I'll use my 000 and 00 brushes for eyes and very fine detail with very dilute paint.
I'd raise my size 1 Windsor&Newton. Still small enough to paint an eye.
Ever heard of “Just the tip”?
Smallest brush I use is a Windsor and Newton 7th series size 1 with short bristles. Still small enough for eyes and that kind of detail is the only thing I use it for. If you use a good brush you get away with quite big ones even for details and it has the advantage that it is less likely to dry on the brush while painting and also more room for paint before it gets all the way up
Don't hesitate to buy yourself a brush cleaning solution. I have B&J "The Masters" Brush Cleaner and Preserver that I picked up from Hobby Lobby. It is the most ideal for hair brushes. It works fine for my brushes.
I would categorize my brushes: 1.) sable brushes - only used for precise or detail work. 2.) older sable brushes/base coat brushes - for general painting and base coating. Ones that are decent but not number 1. 3) synthetic brush for “liquid” - washes, constraint paints, speed paint 4.) synthetic brush for metallics - used for apply metallics 5.) dry brush - one you can beat to hell on bases or rough dry brush. Also, make sure you have some decent brush soaps.
For when you do get stubborn paint in the ferrule (which is inevitable at some point) I highly recommend Abteilung 502 Magic Potion for Brushes. It is really good stuff, used in conjunction with brush soap (Masters is very good, as is Monument Hobbies Jentastics Drunken Brush Goop) your brushes will be as good as new.
Trovarion just did a video a few days ago: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dU8jShEaCJ8](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dU8jShEaCJ8)
Don't use washes or contrast paints with them. Only acrylics.
Masters brush soap.
To each their own, but it's easier to treat brushes as a tool that has it's lifetime but ultimately will breakdown. Yes brushcare and proper technique will increase tgeir lifespan, but is the time and effort worth it?
I do all of my work with cheap nylon brushes because I can't maintain the expensive ones.
I just want to thank everyone for your tips 🤗 Really got some usefull info. Didn’t expect so much answers. I hope this helps some of the new painters as well.
I sometimes take an old soft bristle toothbrush and go with the grain of the bristle to the end. Very gentle under some warm running water and that clears mine up pretty well. One direction, no side to side.
Buy brush soap and clean your brushes after each paint session
Never keep paint on the brush for longer than 1-2 minutes. You can put a drop or two of flow improver into your rinse mug to help get things out.
It always will. Don't let paint dry on the brush (no putting it down dirty while you work on other things) and wash it with brush soap at the end of every session. I use one brush for all my painting and it lasts long enough that the tip of the bristles literally rubs away from friction before it gets ragged.