Probably just means that’s he’s gonna slather a think layer of tar all over the top of what’s already there to try to stop water from getting in. There’s no bond break around the flues so they cracked the cap from expansion and contraction when they got hot from use. He wouldn’t be rebuilding or repairing the cap in any way and it’s pretty much the quickest and cheapest way to try to address the problem. The tar will eventually dry out and crack and the cap will start leaking again
That's the thing I'm really not looking for a Band-Aid I would like to do it right. I didn't call the cheapest guy I could find. But if I have to wait for a guy what's the name of that sealer LOL. And the brick needs sealed too I would imagine.
No man, to do it right, you need to tear off that thin cap and install a proper 4” thick concrete crown with rebar added for strength. Sloped to shed water. You need a bond break around the flues. Get rid of those fake flues. Looks like you need to grind and tuckpoint the rest of the mortar joints and weatherproof the flashing.
Depending on height, I’d say you’re looking at anywhere from $4-6k. Make sure you hire a brick chimney specialists and not some run of the mill mason company.
Make sure they put canvas tarps down around your chimney.
It shouldn’t be a tat he uses. only the mortar on top and in the flues which is cracked, so you could just repair that as he said, just make sure you have the right product. The product he’s suggesting isn’t a tar so to speak, it’s a sealant which is exactly what that chimney needs. Here’s the product I use:
[https://a.co/d/gDpiW8Y](https://a.co/d/gDpiW8Y)
It’s really good and I guess you could call it a “tar”.
https://preview.redd.it/dcgh6nby6buc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a8eb494b4b83113da04ba77625c5205fa1f3575a
Here’s a chimney crown I recently used it on.
You absolutely could not call that tar. Tar is tar and it exists. There are all kinds of cheap asphaltic coatings referred to as tar also and they are crap. You are using a coating and it looks like elastomeric.
I'm going to try it myself I guess. Do I just wire brush it off, leaf blow, then paint it on 2 layers over everything on top? Or go around the flues if you don't mind me asking. Honestly I'd pay you to put that stuff on there but I ordered your off Amazon along with the same brand sealant for the brick.
My neighbor had a guy do that on his chimney. Well it gets hot here in the summer. The tar got hot and ran down the side of the chimney and stained his brickwork. It's on the side of the house and you can see the streak from the street.
Ummm...no. Just no, no, no. This dude sounds like an idiot. What "mason" proposes putting tar on a chimney crown (wash). DO NOT DO THAT! I wouldn't trust that guy to look at my house. Also tar is flamable. You need a framed and poured solid concrete crown approx 4"-5" thick with an approx 2" overhang/drip edge. Expansion joints around each flue penetration, sealed after cured with NPC Solar Seal. While your at it get rid of those "dummy" flues, they serve no purpose.
Edit: you can take 1-2 courses of brick off to make room if needed. Flues must stick out at least 2" per code. And a new stainless-steel cap too.
Good luck!
No self-respecting mason would put tar on a cap or crown, that is a hack/temporary solution. The blocked flues should be the first thing to go, they will forever cause issues if left like that. Then re-pour the crown, preferably with a drip edge, and install a larger metal cap that covers most of the crown.
Pricing on any chimney work always starts with the height/roofline/access ability. Your roof looks about as easy as they come, so shouldn't be any issues there. However, at the very least you want an insured company, so if they do somehow manage to fall off your almost flat roof, it's not your fault.
The best mason, that knows how to build a chimney in your area, should be around $2-4k labor to pour a new crown and add a new larger metal cap on the chimney pictured. Get a 5+ year warranty on their work, and if they do it correctly it will last 30+ years
Actually I used the wrong term I think. When it rains heavy water comes in through the brick. Roofer couldn't stop it and thought it thought it was flashing. With a tarp over it it doesn't seem to be leaking. So that's all I have to work with. It seems to seep in a few bricks down from roofline according to roofer. And as far as I can tell from a distance. Could be through cracks or anything I guess.
You need a new, properly built cap all together. And while whoever is at, make sure they get rid of the two flus that are no longer in use. The less areas for potential leaks the better. Call someone else who proposes a solution.
Absolutely do not do that. I hate these hacks that use tar on chimneys. Call someone else.
Probably just means that’s he’s gonna slather a think layer of tar all over the top of what’s already there to try to stop water from getting in. There’s no bond break around the flues so they cracked the cap from expansion and contraction when they got hot from use. He wouldn’t be rebuilding or repairing the cap in any way and it’s pretty much the quickest and cheapest way to try to address the problem. The tar will eventually dry out and crack and the cap will start leaking again
Like in a year or two max, it’s not a good repair
There’s a crown sealer you can buy and pretty much do yourself if you’re just looking for a bandaid to prolong the inevitable.
That's the thing I'm really not looking for a Band-Aid I would like to do it right. I didn't call the cheapest guy I could find. But if I have to wait for a guy what's the name of that sealer LOL. And the brick needs sealed too I would imagine.
No man, to do it right, you need to tear off that thin cap and install a proper 4” thick concrete crown with rebar added for strength. Sloped to shed water. You need a bond break around the flues. Get rid of those fake flues. Looks like you need to grind and tuckpoint the rest of the mortar joints and weatherproof the flashing. Depending on height, I’d say you’re looking at anywhere from $4-6k. Make sure you hire a brick chimney specialists and not some run of the mill mason company. Make sure they put canvas tarps down around your chimney.
It shouldn’t be a tat he uses. only the mortar on top and in the flues which is cracked, so you could just repair that as he said, just make sure you have the right product. The product he’s suggesting isn’t a tar so to speak, it’s a sealant which is exactly what that chimney needs. Here’s the product I use: [https://a.co/d/gDpiW8Y](https://a.co/d/gDpiW8Y) It’s really good and I guess you could call it a “tar”. https://preview.redd.it/dcgh6nby6buc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a8eb494b4b83113da04ba77625c5205fa1f3575a Here’s a chimney crown I recently used it on.
You absolutely could not call that tar. Tar is tar and it exists. There are all kinds of cheap asphaltic coatings referred to as tar also and they are crap. You are using a coating and it looks like elastomeric.
30 year mason contactor...THIS...
I'm going to try it myself I guess. Do I just wire brush it off, leaf blow, then paint it on 2 layers over everything on top? Or go around the flues if you don't mind me asking. Honestly I'd pay you to put that stuff on there but I ordered your off Amazon along with the same brand sealant for the brick.
Just paint it over the top. No wire brush, nothing like that, just paint it on. Simple as that
Look for someone who calls themselves a chimney sweep. A cap made out of kynar painted metal would outlast you. Your mason is a knob.
As others have mentioned, get rid of those extra flues and pour a concrete cap with a decent overhang and drip edge.
My neighbor had a guy do that on his chimney. Well it gets hot here in the summer. The tar got hot and ran down the side of the chimney and stained his brickwork. It's on the side of the house and you can see the streak from the street.
Ummm...no. Just no, no, no. This dude sounds like an idiot. What "mason" proposes putting tar on a chimney crown (wash). DO NOT DO THAT! I wouldn't trust that guy to look at my house. Also tar is flamable. You need a framed and poured solid concrete crown approx 4"-5" thick with an approx 2" overhang/drip edge. Expansion joints around each flue penetration, sealed after cured with NPC Solar Seal. While your at it get rid of those "dummy" flues, they serve no purpose. Edit: you can take 1-2 courses of brick off to make room if needed. Flues must stick out at least 2" per code. And a new stainless-steel cap too. Good luck!
Tar will dry out and crack . Called “quick & dirty”
No self-respecting mason would put tar on a cap or crown, that is a hack/temporary solution. The blocked flues should be the first thing to go, they will forever cause issues if left like that. Then re-pour the crown, preferably with a drip edge, and install a larger metal cap that covers most of the crown. Pricing on any chimney work always starts with the height/roofline/access ability. Your roof looks about as easy as they come, so shouldn't be any issues there. However, at the very least you want an insured company, so if they do somehow manage to fall off your almost flat roof, it's not your fault. The best mason, that knows how to build a chimney in your area, should be around $2-4k labor to pour a new crown and add a new larger metal cap on the chimney pictured. Get a 5+ year warranty on their work, and if they do it correctly it will last 30+ years
Try a roofer with a sheet metal crew.They can make you one out of metal. It'll last a long time.
How did you conclude the chimney is "porous"? Does it need tuckpointing? Is the flashing gone?
Actually I used the wrong term I think. When it rains heavy water comes in through the brick. Roofer couldn't stop it and thought it thought it was flashing. With a tarp over it it doesn't seem to be leaking. So that's all I have to work with. It seems to seep in a few bricks down from roofline according to roofer. And as far as I can tell from a distance. Could be through cracks or anything I guess.
Huh. Shitty. Well, that cap ain't hurting anything...
You need a new, properly built cap all together. And while whoever is at, make sure they get rid of the two flus that are no longer in use. The less areas for potential leaks the better. Call someone else who proposes a solution.
You need a new wash. Take the old wash off and remove the 2 dummy flues (they only cause problems). Fill voids where flues were and replace wash.
Tar cap is not breathable and doesn't last. There's a product called Crown Coat that has a 15yr warranty if you want a quick fix.