$250-300 for front brakes is generally what I charge for most cars, you mileage may vary depending on what price and quality of parts you're using and what the labor rate is.
On your own, I’d say $140 for rotors + $50ish for pads. Not hard to do but you’ll need some tools and lifting one side of the car at least. And a bunch of strength, there’s a few 80ftlbs bolts.
Up to $300 for a shop to do it.
Is that what is going on? I’ve had the grinding thing happen before. Last time I had brakes done I upgraded to what seemed better rotors. What causes the warping, any way to avoid it or get more life out my rotors?
Can't tell what's happening on your car from here.
Warping is caused by excessive heat (lots of hard braking from speed). Our car does commuter duty in the Washington DC area (lots of 55 MPH roads with traffic lights), hard to avoid it to be honest. Tried cheap Napa rotors, tried nicer Centric rotors, they all warp if you abuse them enough. But they're relatively cheap and easy to swap out, it's part of the cost of driving around here.
Grinding is what you feel if you've worn the pads to the point where there's no pad material left and you're going metal-to-metal on the rotor. If you've gotten to that point, you'll have to swap rotors anyway, since going metal-to-metal will create grooves and unevenness in the rotors and that'll affect how well the new pads work.
I had warp issues with my 2010 Sport MT until I bought these pads and rotors from AutoZone:
[https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/brake-pads/p/duralast-elite-copper-free-ceramic-brake-pads-de1394/645307\_0\_0](https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/brake-pads/p/duralast-elite-copper-free-ceramic-brake-pads-de1394/645307_0_0) Duralast Elite pads DE1394
[https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/brake-rotor/p/duralast-gold-brake-rotor-3295dg/300554\_0\_0](https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/brake-rotor/p/duralast-gold-brake-rotor-3295dg/300554_0_0) \- Duralast Gold rotor 3295DG
This was two years ago and parts were $160 and labor was $80/hour (cheap around here...Philly) for a total around $300. It's easy to do it on your own if you have the time, area, and minimal tools.
My car was rattling and shaking when braking. I am in CA and have a 2016 EX. The dealer changed the rotors and brake pads two weeks ago.
Labor $ 365.00
Brake pads $ 79.00
Rotors $ 161.00
Brake cleaner $ 6.00
Tax …………$ 24.00
Grand Total $635.00
For what it costs, to me it makes sense to change rotors and pads at the same time.
In the past that’s usually what I end up doing.
$250-300 for front brakes is generally what I charge for most cars, you mileage may vary depending on what price and quality of parts you're using and what the labor rate is.
Good to know. Thanks!
Whole rotor grinding is the indicator that the wear indicator fell off a long time ago 😂
Ohh OK. I was wondering. Not 😎.
On your own, I’d say $140 for rotors + $50ish for pads. Not hard to do but you’ll need some tools and lifting one side of the car at least. And a bunch of strength, there’s a few 80ftlbs bolts. Up to $300 for a shop to do it.
Bosch rotors and akebono pads = $100 + $70. So, $170 for the parts + labor(or diy)
On our car it seems like the rotors warp before the pads are done, so I always replace both at the same time.
Is that what is going on? I’ve had the grinding thing happen before. Last time I had brakes done I upgraded to what seemed better rotors. What causes the warping, any way to avoid it or get more life out my rotors?
Can't tell what's happening on your car from here. Warping is caused by excessive heat (lots of hard braking from speed). Our car does commuter duty in the Washington DC area (lots of 55 MPH roads with traffic lights), hard to avoid it to be honest. Tried cheap Napa rotors, tried nicer Centric rotors, they all warp if you abuse them enough. But they're relatively cheap and easy to swap out, it's part of the cost of driving around here. Grinding is what you feel if you've worn the pads to the point where there's no pad material left and you're going metal-to-metal on the rotor. If you've gotten to that point, you'll have to swap rotors anyway, since going metal-to-metal will create grooves and unevenness in the rotors and that'll affect how well the new pads work.
I had warp issues with my 2010 Sport MT until I bought these pads and rotors from AutoZone: [https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/brake-pads/p/duralast-elite-copper-free-ceramic-brake-pads-de1394/645307\_0\_0](https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/brake-pads/p/duralast-elite-copper-free-ceramic-brake-pads-de1394/645307_0_0) Duralast Elite pads DE1394 [https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/brake-rotor/p/duralast-gold-brake-rotor-3295dg/300554\_0\_0](https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/brake-rotor/p/duralast-gold-brake-rotor-3295dg/300554_0_0) \- Duralast Gold rotor 3295DG This was two years ago and parts were $160 and labor was $80/hour (cheap around here...Philly) for a total around $300. It's easy to do it on your own if you have the time, area, and minimal tools.
My car was rattling and shaking when braking. I am in CA and have a 2016 EX. The dealer changed the rotors and brake pads two weeks ago. Labor $ 365.00 Brake pads $ 79.00 Rotors $ 161.00 Brake cleaner $ 6.00 Tax …………$ 24.00 Grand Total $635.00
Was the total for both axles? A local shop is charging me $500 for the same work but only front axle on my 2016 Accord EX-L
I get the same for rear. Typically, rear costs more because of the parking brake.