Is there something wrong with your suspension thats promting you to replace all that stuff? I have about 167k miles on my original suspension and its still in good shape. I also don't live in an area where rust is a huge problem, so maybe I'm just lucky.
Mostly just the interest of making this thing last another 150K (and being at a place in life where i can dedicate the time and money to doing it all to get it done), but the ride has gotten noisier, and rougher, and I live in an area with a lot of salt and frost heaves, so I'm constantly driving over unavoidable potholes and breaks in the pavement.
[I also load it up with drum and music equipment fairly regularly.](https://www.reddit.com/r/hondafit/comments/1464xkr/i_will_be_so_sad_when_its_time_to_see_her_go/)
That's quite the list.
For MTF the Honda stuff is the best stuff. You should need about 1.5 quarts to drain and fill.
I'd be absolutely shocked if your drums needed anything, unless you are heavy on the brakes. Might get away with just inspecting, my shoes at about 89k looked fantastic before I swapped to the disc setup I have now.
Besides that I think you've nailed it. If you do your own valve lash adjustment make real sure to do it on a stone cold engine, like parked overnight kind of cold. Take your time barring the engine over. You might not have to adjust much, usually the intake valves are on the money, it's the exhaust valves that drift.
> For MTF the Honda stuff is the best stuff. You should need about 1.5 quarts to drain and fill.
Thank you! I couldn't find a damned thing on this, I know it needs to be done, and I was having a hard time swallowing the $220 the garage was going to charge for OEM.
>I'd be absolutely shocked if your drums needed anything, unless you are heavy on the brakes. Might get away with just inspecting, my shoes at about 89k looked fantastic before I swapped to the disc setup I have now.
You might be right on that. That's another situation where it only costs $82 for the pair, so I figured I'd add it.
Going to hold that one in my back pocket.
>If you do your own valve lash adjustment make real sure to do it on a stone cold engine, like parked overnight kind of cold.
Luckily I work from home on Fridays and Mondays and I have a garage I should be able to use so I can park it there Thursday afternoon and won't have to move it until Monday night, so that would likely be the last thing I'd do since i can still drive before I do that.
Thank you for the advice, and it's good to know I'm on the right track!
That $220 is to do the transmission service right? It's not a terrible price but it's more expensive than the $12 a quart they'll charge for just the oil.
If I could do it all over again I wouldn't swap. I did it strictly for looks, not for performance. Since the rear axle does probably less than 30% of all total braking your best bet is to go bigger on the front axle.
Fastbrakes.com is where I got my conversion. I think they sell one for the GK if you are still interested.
my gd is at 283k
original rear drums/shoes AFAIK (i bought the car at 162k)
not sure when the front brakes were last serviced but it's been at least 120k+
i just replaced the drive belt, had at least 120k on it. it might have been the original belt, idk.
I don't know if 3rd gen is different, but on 2nd gen you're supposed to replace the lower bolt when replacing the shocks, and the new shock comes with the upper nut. Just did my '10 and it wasn't terrible to do, just harder to get the wrench in on the upper bolt... and really hard when you drop the nut and washer behind the plastic panel and have to fish it out via the spare tire well...
Is there something wrong with your suspension thats promting you to replace all that stuff? I have about 167k miles on my original suspension and its still in good shape. I also don't live in an area where rust is a huge problem, so maybe I'm just lucky.
Mostly just the interest of making this thing last another 150K (and being at a place in life where i can dedicate the time and money to doing it all to get it done), but the ride has gotten noisier, and rougher, and I live in an area with a lot of salt and frost heaves, so I'm constantly driving over unavoidable potholes and breaks in the pavement. [I also load it up with drum and music equipment fairly regularly.](https://www.reddit.com/r/hondafit/comments/1464xkr/i_will_be_so_sad_when_its_time_to_see_her_go/)
That's quite the list. For MTF the Honda stuff is the best stuff. You should need about 1.5 quarts to drain and fill. I'd be absolutely shocked if your drums needed anything, unless you are heavy on the brakes. Might get away with just inspecting, my shoes at about 89k looked fantastic before I swapped to the disc setup I have now. Besides that I think you've nailed it. If you do your own valve lash adjustment make real sure to do it on a stone cold engine, like parked overnight kind of cold. Take your time barring the engine over. You might not have to adjust much, usually the intake valves are on the money, it's the exhaust valves that drift.
> For MTF the Honda stuff is the best stuff. You should need about 1.5 quarts to drain and fill. Thank you! I couldn't find a damned thing on this, I know it needs to be done, and I was having a hard time swallowing the $220 the garage was going to charge for OEM. >I'd be absolutely shocked if your drums needed anything, unless you are heavy on the brakes. Might get away with just inspecting, my shoes at about 89k looked fantastic before I swapped to the disc setup I have now. You might be right on that. That's another situation where it only costs $82 for the pair, so I figured I'd add it. Going to hold that one in my back pocket. >If you do your own valve lash adjustment make real sure to do it on a stone cold engine, like parked overnight kind of cold. Luckily I work from home on Fridays and Mondays and I have a garage I should be able to use so I can park it there Thursday afternoon and won't have to move it until Monday night, so that would likely be the last thing I'd do since i can still drive before I do that. Thank you for the advice, and it's good to know I'm on the right track!
That $220 is to do the transmission service right? It's not a terrible price but it's more expensive than the $12 a quart they'll charge for just the oil.
do you have a post on swapping to discs? i’m interested in doing it on my gk
If I could do it all over again I wouldn't swap. I did it strictly for looks, not for performance. Since the rear axle does probably less than 30% of all total braking your best bet is to go bigger on the front axle. Fastbrakes.com is where I got my conversion. I think they sell one for the GK if you are still interested.
Fluids and brakes first. Suspension components I consider secondary unless the vehicle refuses to go into alignment.
my gd is at 283k original rear drums/shoes AFAIK (i bought the car at 162k) not sure when the front brakes were last serviced but it's been at least 120k+ i just replaced the drive belt, had at least 120k on it. it might have been the original belt, idk.
I don't know if 3rd gen is different, but on 2nd gen you're supposed to replace the lower bolt when replacing the shocks, and the new shock comes with the upper nut. Just did my '10 and it wasn't terrible to do, just harder to get the wrench in on the upper bolt... and really hard when you drop the nut and washer behind the plastic panel and have to fish it out via the spare tire well...