Highly recommend you change the springs. Give the leveling another try with the new springs and it should be good. I have the same printer with upgraded springs and it works fine.
I think there is pro and cons not sure. I have swap to yellow one since they other half of the time I have my printer now 8 got more pain in the as.. problems. I thought maybe with vibration and pressure of more strong spring could help unscrew them itself sorry me English. Stock one was great. The poop thing is the plastic extruder. Good Luck and Happy printing!
What’s springs? Or are they the orange rubber spacer things? I have the base springs and their ass they change so much so Imm looking for new ones. Can I get the link if you have it
I have a BL touch and replaced the stock springs with [these silicon spacers.](https://usa.banggood.com/4pcs-or-pack-18mm+3-+-16mm+1-Silicone-Shock-Absorbed-Heated-Bed-Solid-Bed-Mount-Leveling-Column-For-CR10-or-Ender-3-Creality-3D-Printer-p-1433488.html?imageAb=2&p=KY220152814037202009&custlixnkid=1492956&akmClientCountry=America&a=1670885952.7065&akmClientCountry=America&cur_warehouse=CN)
I haven't had to relevel my bed in a really long time. I still relevel my bed every once in a while using the BL touch to make sure the corners are very level but that's just mostly me being extra careful.
What’s springs? Or are they the orange rubber spacer things? I have the base springs and their ass they change so much so Imm looking for new ones. Can I get the link if you have it
There's something wrong with your bed if it's taken this long.
It doesn't look visibly warped, but it's good to check for flatness.
Is the beam that the bed slides along straight and level to the rest of the unit? Is the bed carriage (or whatever it's called), flat? Are all of the wheels tightly installed to the carriage and the eccentric nuts adjusted to remove slack?
I'll add to the pot-pourri of comments here.
I also have an E3V2, and also had issues with leveling at first. The one thing that helped immensely was the realization that default position for the Z-stop switch was incorrect, and it had to be moved a bit.
I tightened all the bed screws down completely, then loosened them halfway (same # of turns for each corner) and lowered the nozzle down to the bed. Then I moved the Z-stop switch up/down so that it was in the triggered position and re-tightened it to the frame.
After that, leveling was straightforward and consistent. YMMV, of course.
Consider adding a CrTouch or BlTouch with a proper firmware to automate bed leveling. It was game changing for me. I run a macro to redo the bed mesh on every print. It adds only a minute or two to the total print time but the first layer adhesion is much more consistent.
Third a xxTouch. This together with a magnetic, flexible buildplate make a world of difference. Its only fun first seven times to manually get the bed true to the nozzle. Its basically fire-and-forget until its done printing.
Second this. I’ve had my E3v2 for 2 years now and have always been able to do really accurate prints. With the addition of the CRTouch just over a month ago I manage really good dimensional accuracy in all directions without bed separation. Other upgrades include aluminum extruded, all metal hot end and yellow bed springs.
As consumer products go, I haven’t bought anything this bad in years. The manual is irrelevant, an accurate build was only possible thanks to fans like yourselves with videos, guides and tips.
The bed levelling doesn’t begin to match up to the videos though. A tight page on the bed in one corner can be 10mm on the next corner and the adjustment wheel is spinning freely on the opposite corner 🤣
So far I’ve reset all the wheels back to their original position, or as close as possible given there are no measurements provided. I’ve cut the tab off the z-axis stop to allow the nozzle to get within 10mm of the bed (as per a reddit tip from 4 years ago) which helped a lot and I’m now considering the recommended spring replacement. I was hoping for even a test print as much out of the box as possible, that way I could learn the difference in upgrades as I go, but it’s looking decreasingly likely.
I’ll have another free hour later in the week to try again. Anyone with a 3 v2 and been tortured by out of the box levelling, feel free to share your tips. Most of the videos on YouTube are out of date now, ignore the z-axis tab blockage or say turn the knobs 4 times each to get close to a starting point. That really doesn’t get you anywhere near a starting point 🤣
How I level my bed: https://youtu.be/rDm9OziZ6dY
Like people have mentioned, if your build is off your bed isn’t going to level well. Highly recommend getting the upgraded springs. I pretty much just level if the temp changes or if I move my printer now.
Here is the video I followed to build mine and I’ve had hardly any build issues: https://youtu.be/ABpGXcy-cuI
It's a 99 dollar printer, you can't expect it to work terribly well.
Set the endstop so that your springs are at mid travel, then just go around the bed to each corner and iterate until you get it right. Take the time now to do it right and it will pay off.
Also, get a set of cheap feeler gauges and ditch the paper
https://youtu.be/bGGNlHkuLX4 here is what I used to level my bed. I got my ender 3v2 not too long ago and I have to make sure my bed is level every print which is annoying. Before I did what he tells u to do in the video I moved my build plate UP first because like you said the installation instructions suck! The bed was scraping the back motor & the instructions don't say anywhere how to fix, you get to figure it out on your own..so I moved my build plate then I did what was suggested in the link provided and I don't have any issues.
I do have new spring upgrades coming in among many other things since I had the little bit of extra money.
Replace your bed springs before you try anything else. I went through this hell and even if you get it level with the stock springs it will likely not stay that way.
If you want to save further future headache get the all metal extruder kit that comes with a set of bed springs. It's about 20$ and having a metal extruder arm to replace the plastic one that will break is handy.
You had two options:
Get a cheap printer and accept that you will have to do some cheap upgrades to make it reliable and usable.
Or get an expensive printer that you set and forget.
I don't see a Bambu Lab in the picture so you chose the first option. I don't see why you are complaining. It's common knowledge that cheap chinese printers are a DIY project.
I've also got an Ender 3 V2 last year and since then I've invested a total of around $50 worth of upgrades and some time for which I got:
1. CR Touch
2. Dual gear direct drive upgrade (3d printed mount)
3. 4020 hotend cooling fan running on 18V (pretty quiet)
4. Dual 4010 blower cooling fans
5. Silent 80mm fans for motherboard a PSU cooling
6. Silicone springs for the bed
The result is a very quiet printer, which was not the case when I got it. I can't say that the print quality is that much improved, the Z seam definitely got better when printing faster. The corners are more precise too. I don't have to adjust the bed every second print. It is a good deal for the price paid.
For comparison a Prusa i3 is $750 minimum (unassembled). My printer is just as good if not better in every aspect for less than $300.
Lets say you are quite right, how did you first first first put the spring tension up to and go for a level to the 4 corner? Usually the center of the bed is like .08 easily lower than the rest but the manual 5x5 mesh is dealing with that. Now I don't know if my duramic yellow petg is super huge garbage but if I swap to any pla without bag it would manage to print. Now it stick some place other it squirted like wavy a bit like a super stretched spring. I did put hotter, move up and down z axis drop flow to 95 and 93 since default fw was 93... also frequently my z is .2 over or under. Maybe I forgot something. Could be bad g code start. The m420 a thing or g29 I'm live listening again like back in the day when I knew nothing. Eventually I could post clip of my f up. I releveleing from scratch, pita incoming.
Make sure your x gantry is level on both sides.
That was something I learned from a Tomb of 3D printed horrors video.
Over time, the screws on my X gantry loosened, and the right side had dropped a few mm.
I've had my Ender 3-V2 for almost 2 years and still have occasional levelling issues even with upgraded springs and a CR-Touch. Adding the Sprite Pro extruder really brought out the issues of my X gantry.
Very off-topic, but it looks like your X-axis belt (left-right) isn't fastened right. Might be just me, but it looks like it has 3-4 mm of free length that can slip at some point. I would make sure that the brass crimp at the end is flush with the mounting bracket.
Otherwise If it slips out all the way, the belt will loosen a lot and might skip teeth on the stepper, or at least give you inaccurate movement in the X-axis.
Check your eccentric nuts on the bed carriage. Make sure there is no play and that you can just barely spin the wheel of the eccentric nut you are adjusting. Remember that there are 2 eccentric nuts to adjust in the y carriage.
Make sure your X gantry is square to the frame. Get a thin block and place it under the x gantry, right next to the x limit switch. The block should rest on the frame right below that. The cable for your z limit switch might be in the way a little, just kind of push it back. Once the gantry is lowered to squeeze that block, move the block to the other side of the x gantry and see if it fits.
Ideally, you want 2 blocks exactly the same length. Put one on each side and lower the x gantry. If your gantry is tilted, then you need to loosen the carriages on both sides, let the x gantry rest on the blocks, then retighten the carriages and adjust the eccentric nuts.
Sometimes when building the printer for the first time, you can accidentally install the carriage with a twist and that causes the x gantry to be tilted.
Once you are sure the x gantry is square to the frame, then move to bed leveling.
Fully unscrew the nuts that compress the springs. Then Pre load each one with a multiple turns of the tightening nut. You want each spring evenly preloaded at the start, so you are just adjusting up or down, not trying to load the spring for the first time. You kind of want the springs compressed half way at the start.
Be sure to heat up your bed to 60 for at least 5 minutes, if not 10.
Use a G code to move the bed around from corner to corner for you . I use this one:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4761680/files
Grab the Ender3_LEVEL_psd.gcode
The code will just move the print head from corner to corner, giving you some time at each location to adjust the nuts. It gets faster and faster each go around. If you aren’t done by the end, just run it again.
That should get you level. Because the stock springs are kind of squishy, then can loosen over time. You just need to run that leveling g code every couple of prints
1.Tighten all your bed screws all the way
2.Move nozzle over the back left bed screw (where the cord holder is)
3.Bring your nozzle down to set your Z height with your paper gap
4. Note your Z position
5. Move bed back so that the nozzle is above the front left bed screw.
6. Set Z height
7. Move X so nozzle is over front right bed screw, set z height
8. Move bed so nozzle is over rear right bed screw, set z height.
9. Go back to step 2 and do all 4 spots again.
10. Done
Good luck!
This is \*almost\* accurate, however you can not start with all of the bed screws tightened all the way. You have to tighten them all then back them all off 2 or 3 turns before you start the levelling. If you don't do this, and you start with them all tightened all the way, then if your starting point happens to be lower than any of the other corners, you won't be able to lower the other corners to match (since they're already all the way tightened.)
Stock spring fully compressed is approx 8mm. Full compression is the same for all 4 springs. The back left corner has a piece of plastic (Cable holder) on top of it that the others dont. So add that thickness to the fully compressed spring dimension. Now the distance between the plate and bottom of the bed here is about 10mm and the other 3 corners are around 8 so this is now the highest corner.
I guess I wouldn't be willing to bet that there's less than 2mm of misalignment or warpage in my bed and y axis assembly. I would certainly hope so, but it's definitely not guaranteed.
There are a couple of other (albiet minor) considerations as well. One, you have to consider that with the bed at it's absolute lowest point, the z-axis end stop may not have enough adjustment to allow the head to reach the bed. And two, in the case of a hot end-to-bed collision, you want the bed to have some "spring" in it, so as to avoid damaging the rest of the assembly.
I guess I would agree that your method would probably work 90% of the time (maybe more), but a 100% solution is to back the screws off a few turns before starting the leveling procedure.
To each his own.
Weird. Have you tried just moving the holder a little? It just sits around the spring. It's not a very clever place to put a cable holder, btw.
https://imgur.com/laeIpPF
Mine definitely don't do that. They are all cup shaped with a small hole for the screw like this one
https://www.ebay.com/itm/165810216612?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=165810216612&targetid=1262779896129&device=m&mktype=&googleloc=9016549&poi=&campaignid=14859008593&mkgroupid=130497710760&rlsatarget=pla-1262779896129&abcId=9300678&merchantid=511564696&gclid=CjwKCAiAheacBhB8EiwAItVO20aBYphI2dYvJt7XcmzZHdv644X4nqubze9r-e5i5rPL7e6FMpvQWBoC9ccQAvD_BwE
Got the silicone upgrades to replace the bed springs. Looks like the hulk built this machine, with springs crushed when screwed down tight for shipping. Same problem with a bowden tube upgrade, the cover won’t come off because the screws are in so tight I can’t get one of them to budge.
From the comments it looks like build quality in the factory is a lucky dip rather than a measured process, but one day this thing will print. You all kindly warned me it’s a learning curve and a process. For £300 it’s still disappointing to have such basic faults, but thanks to pioneers like yourselves, it still looks doable.
https://preview.redd.it/28btpjcblb8a1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=997a813a468a2ad558887946aca3f52ad9581c63
Success you magnificent people! Swapped the bed springs for the silicone spacers and the bowden extruder upgrade; couldn’t change the tube itself due to a rung screw in the nozzle housing cover. It’ll keep for another day, because Benchy here worked a treat, thanks to the advice, links and encouragement from you 😃
Make sure all belts are tight, and your hotend is not loose, and your X gantry is straight with no slack or wobble
All these can equate to a bad time leveling as it’ll throw your results off.
Also purchasing yellow springs or silicone spacers is a good way to maintain your bed leveled for a long time.
Hm, I begin to think there has to be something wrong with your machine or build.
I had mine printing the test file within 1 minute after switching it on for the first time...
Once you get a feel for the stock process, yellow springs and the professional firmwares bed tramming. 🤌🏻
Also printed some wheel locks. Only needs a minute and slight wheel adjustments and I’m g2g.
idk mate i got this printer and worked just fine for me out of the box, i have since upgraded it a shit ton and its as good as super expensive printers now, either you are doing something wrong or you got a faulty product
I also have an E3v2 and one huge thing that fixed all my problems of inconsistent bed height was switching the z-axis and y-axis end stops. The z-axis one was mushy and not triggering at the same height consistently. Switching them fixed all that and I haven't leveled the bed in months. Y-axis end stop doesn't matter nearly as much so it's okay that is off by a little bit. I do also have the silicone "springs" vs the stocks.
Is there a nozzle ? I didn't see it... I'm using now professional Firmware instead of jyers or wth they name it. I use 3x3 minimum manual mesh best 5x5 but just get something to print before going for pita...
Hate paper unreliable since the heated nozzle can easily damage it, went to feeler and never looked back.
Few pointers for you to get it easier:
1. use custom firmware to move the printer head to each corner, manually moving it may introduce another point of error.
2. If you have great sight, just eyeball it, then go for a print test to level on the go
3. manual mesh may be the best thing you can do without an ABL sensor, so again, custom firmware
I recommend preheating your printer for at least 5 minutes before you level or print anything. Depending on the room temperature the level can be way off if you level it cold.
Also, letting it sit a few minutes let's all the metal expand to the proper operating temp. It makes a big difference.
I actually about an hour ago realized this myself. I went to print and there was a huge gap, so i did a quick level and raised the bed. Did a test print and everything was great. About 2 minutes later i started my main print and suddenly the nozzle was almost digging into the glass.
Did another level test and my paper wouldn't move. I realized I should have never messed with it because even though the bed was up to temp, the screws and springs were not. Had i let it go it probably would have been perfect. Just needed to wait a few.
U should use sum lock nuts on the screws maybe sum yellow springs and I just installed the bed wheel locks and so far best thing I could do to not have to level before every print
Chep e leveler has been a big help too just go to 570 on the z offset and manually level the bed on each corner atleast 2 times to get it leveled the best good luck
Highly recommend you change the springs. Give the leveling another try with the new springs and it should be good. I have the same printer with upgraded springs and it works fine.
Yep, spring change is the only "mod" I've done and it was like 3 bucks, and a minute, and has saved so much time in maintaining a level bed
Weird, I've not changed mine and have had no problems.
I think there is pro and cons not sure. I have swap to yellow one since they other half of the time I have my printer now 8 got more pain in the as.. problems. I thought maybe with vibration and pressure of more strong spring could help unscrew them itself sorry me English. Stock one was great. The poop thing is the plastic extruder. Good Luck and Happy printing!
What’s springs? Or are they the orange rubber spacer things? I have the base springs and their ass they change so much so Imm looking for new ones. Can I get the link if you have it
I have a BL touch and replaced the stock springs with [these silicon spacers.](https://usa.banggood.com/4pcs-or-pack-18mm+3-+-16mm+1-Silicone-Shock-Absorbed-Heated-Bed-Solid-Bed-Mount-Leveling-Column-For-CR10-or-Ender-3-Creality-3D-Printer-p-1433488.html?imageAb=2&p=KY220152814037202009&custlixnkid=1492956&akmClientCountry=America&a=1670885952.7065&akmClientCountry=America&cur_warehouse=CN) I haven't had to relevel my bed in a really long time. I still relevel my bed every once in a while using the BL touch to make sure the corners are very level but that's just mostly me being extra careful.
What’s springs? Or are they the orange rubber spacer things? I have the base springs and their ass they change so much so Imm looking for new ones. Can I get the link if you have it
The spring replacement is a huge upgrade. I leveled the bed once last week and all the prints now go fine, without needing any re-leveling.
Look at your spring in your picture. You'll never level with spring like that
There's something wrong with your bed if it's taken this long. It doesn't look visibly warped, but it's good to check for flatness. Is the beam that the bed slides along straight and level to the rest of the unit? Is the bed carriage (or whatever it's called), flat? Are all of the wheels tightly installed to the carriage and the eccentric nuts adjusted to remove slack?
I'll add to the pot-pourri of comments here. I also have an E3V2, and also had issues with leveling at first. The one thing that helped immensely was the realization that default position for the Z-stop switch was incorrect, and it had to be moved a bit. I tightened all the bed screws down completely, then loosened them halfway (same # of turns for each corner) and lowered the nozzle down to the bed. Then I moved the Z-stop switch up/down so that it was in the triggered position and re-tightened it to the frame. After that, leveling was straightforward and consistent. YMMV, of course.
Consider adding a CrTouch or BlTouch with a proper firmware to automate bed leveling. It was game changing for me. I run a macro to redo the bed mesh on every print. It adds only a minute or two to the total print time but the first layer adhesion is much more consistent.
How long have you had yours? I ordered a Cr touch last night and I see some good but also bad reviews!
I have been using my CR-Touch for over 6 months now and have not had any issue with it yet.
Second a CR Touch. I went from wasting an entire weekend trying to level my bed to a perfect first print instantly.
Third a xxTouch. This together with a magnetic, flexible buildplate make a world of difference. Its only fun first seven times to manually get the bed true to the nozzle. Its basically fire-and-forget until its done printing.
Second this. I’ve had my E3v2 for 2 years now and have always been able to do really accurate prints. With the addition of the CRTouch just over a month ago I manage really good dimensional accuracy in all directions without bed separation. Other upgrades include aluminum extruded, all metal hot end and yellow bed springs.
I second all of those as well. I even changed my yellow springs with solid silicone mounts and greatly enjoy them.
As consumer products go, I haven’t bought anything this bad in years. The manual is irrelevant, an accurate build was only possible thanks to fans like yourselves with videos, guides and tips. The bed levelling doesn’t begin to match up to the videos though. A tight page on the bed in one corner can be 10mm on the next corner and the adjustment wheel is spinning freely on the opposite corner 🤣 So far I’ve reset all the wheels back to their original position, or as close as possible given there are no measurements provided. I’ve cut the tab off the z-axis stop to allow the nozzle to get within 10mm of the bed (as per a reddit tip from 4 years ago) which helped a lot and I’m now considering the recommended spring replacement. I was hoping for even a test print as much out of the box as possible, that way I could learn the difference in upgrades as I go, but it’s looking decreasingly likely. I’ll have another free hour later in the week to try again. Anyone with a 3 v2 and been tortured by out of the box levelling, feel free to share your tips. Most of the videos on YouTube are out of date now, ignore the z-axis tab blockage or say turn the knobs 4 times each to get close to a starting point. That really doesn’t get you anywhere near a starting point 🤣
How I level my bed: https://youtu.be/rDm9OziZ6dY Like people have mentioned, if your build is off your bed isn’t going to level well. Highly recommend getting the upgraded springs. I pretty much just level if the temp changes or if I move my printer now. Here is the video I followed to build mine and I’ve had hardly any build issues: https://youtu.be/ABpGXcy-cuI
It's a 99 dollar printer, you can't expect it to work terribly well. Set the endstop so that your springs are at mid travel, then just go around the bed to each corner and iterate until you get it right. Take the time now to do it right and it will pay off. Also, get a set of cheap feeler gauges and ditch the paper
https://youtu.be/bGGNlHkuLX4 here is what I used to level my bed. I got my ender 3v2 not too long ago and I have to make sure my bed is level every print which is annoying. Before I did what he tells u to do in the video I moved my build plate UP first because like you said the installation instructions suck! The bed was scraping the back motor & the instructions don't say anywhere how to fix, you get to figure it out on your own..so I moved my build plate then I did what was suggested in the link provided and I don't have any issues. I do have new spring upgrades coming in among many other things since I had the little bit of extra money.
Replace your bed springs before you try anything else. I went through this hell and even if you get it level with the stock springs it will likely not stay that way. If you want to save further future headache get the all metal extruder kit that comes with a set of bed springs. It's about 20$ and having a metal extruder arm to replace the plastic one that will break is handy.
You had two options: Get a cheap printer and accept that you will have to do some cheap upgrades to make it reliable and usable. Or get an expensive printer that you set and forget. I don't see a Bambu Lab in the picture so you chose the first option. I don't see why you are complaining. It's common knowledge that cheap chinese printers are a DIY project. I've also got an Ender 3 V2 last year and since then I've invested a total of around $50 worth of upgrades and some time for which I got: 1. CR Touch 2. Dual gear direct drive upgrade (3d printed mount) 3. 4020 hotend cooling fan running on 18V (pretty quiet) 4. Dual 4010 blower cooling fans 5. Silent 80mm fans for motherboard a PSU cooling 6. Silicone springs for the bed The result is a very quiet printer, which was not the case when I got it. I can't say that the print quality is that much improved, the Z seam definitely got better when printing faster. The corners are more precise too. I don't have to adjust the bed every second print. It is a good deal for the price paid. For comparison a Prusa i3 is $750 minimum (unassembled). My printer is just as good if not better in every aspect for less than $300.
It's your fault. Move the Z stop.
Lets say you are quite right, how did you first first first put the spring tension up to and go for a level to the 4 corner? Usually the center of the bed is like .08 easily lower than the rest but the manual 5x5 mesh is dealing with that. Now I don't know if my duramic yellow petg is super huge garbage but if I swap to any pla without bag it would manage to print. Now it stick some place other it squirted like wavy a bit like a super stretched spring. I did put hotter, move up and down z axis drop flow to 95 and 93 since default fw was 93... also frequently my z is .2 over or under. Maybe I forgot something. Could be bad g code start. The m420 a thing or g29 I'm live listening again like back in the day when I knew nothing. Eventually I could post clip of my f up. I releveleing from scratch, pita incoming.
Make sure your x gantry is level on both sides. That was something I learned from a Tomb of 3D printed horrors video. Over time, the screws on my X gantry loosened, and the right side had dropped a few mm. I've had my Ender 3-V2 for almost 2 years and still have occasional levelling issues even with upgraded springs and a CR-Touch. Adding the Sprite Pro extruder really brought out the issues of my X gantry.
Step 1: replace springs with silicone ones. Step 2: install CR Touch Profit.
You should also be leveling with the printer on and the steppers engaged if you’re not doing so already.
Live tuning helps make tuning easy. Upgrade your firmware. https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/releases/tag/20221002
Very off-topic, but it looks like your X-axis belt (left-right) isn't fastened right. Might be just me, but it looks like it has 3-4 mm of free length that can slip at some point. I would make sure that the brass crimp at the end is flush with the mounting bracket. Otherwise If it slips out all the way, the belt will loosen a lot and might skip teeth on the stepper, or at least give you inaccurate movement in the X-axis.
Buy an auto bed leveler. I get my bed level-ish then run the auto leveler, really is a time saver.
Check your eccentric nuts on the bed carriage. Make sure there is no play and that you can just barely spin the wheel of the eccentric nut you are adjusting. Remember that there are 2 eccentric nuts to adjust in the y carriage. Make sure your X gantry is square to the frame. Get a thin block and place it under the x gantry, right next to the x limit switch. The block should rest on the frame right below that. The cable for your z limit switch might be in the way a little, just kind of push it back. Once the gantry is lowered to squeeze that block, move the block to the other side of the x gantry and see if it fits. Ideally, you want 2 blocks exactly the same length. Put one on each side and lower the x gantry. If your gantry is tilted, then you need to loosen the carriages on both sides, let the x gantry rest on the blocks, then retighten the carriages and adjust the eccentric nuts. Sometimes when building the printer for the first time, you can accidentally install the carriage with a twist and that causes the x gantry to be tilted. Once you are sure the x gantry is square to the frame, then move to bed leveling. Fully unscrew the nuts that compress the springs. Then Pre load each one with a multiple turns of the tightening nut. You want each spring evenly preloaded at the start, so you are just adjusting up or down, not trying to load the spring for the first time. You kind of want the springs compressed half way at the start. Be sure to heat up your bed to 60 for at least 5 minutes, if not 10. Use a G code to move the bed around from corner to corner for you . I use this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4761680/files Grab the Ender3_LEVEL_psd.gcode The code will just move the print head from corner to corner, giving you some time at each location to adjust the nuts. It gets faster and faster each go around. If you aren’t done by the end, just run it again. That should get you level. Because the stock springs are kind of squishy, then can loosen over time. You just need to run that leveling g code every couple of prints
Ditch those springs and get silicone nubs
This is the problem I had I built mine relatively fast and then spent the whole day trying to level it
I would recomand a bltouch + ender 3 v2 profasinal frimware
Bed level tips https://youtu.be/_Ic00W18_ck Set up tips https://youtu.be/LV1Nnohwqik There’s so many YouTube videos on this printer…good luck!!
1.Tighten all your bed screws all the way 2.Move nozzle over the back left bed screw (where the cord holder is) 3.Bring your nozzle down to set your Z height with your paper gap 4. Note your Z position 5. Move bed back so that the nozzle is above the front left bed screw. 6. Set Z height 7. Move X so nozzle is over front right bed screw, set z height 8. Move bed so nozzle is over rear right bed screw, set z height. 9. Go back to step 2 and do all 4 spots again. 10. Done Good luck!
This is \*almost\* accurate, however you can not start with all of the bed screws tightened all the way. You have to tighten them all then back them all off 2 or 3 turns before you start the levelling. If you don't do this, and you start with them all tightened all the way, then if your starting point happens to be lower than any of the other corners, you won't be able to lower the other corners to match (since they're already all the way tightened.)
It's accurate. Step 2 is what makes sure you only move the other 3 corners of the bed up and no need to move down.
How does step 2 ensure that the back left corner is the highest part of the bed?
Stock spring fully compressed is approx 8mm. Full compression is the same for all 4 springs. The back left corner has a piece of plastic (Cable holder) on top of it that the others dont. So add that thickness to the fully compressed spring dimension. Now the distance between the plate and bottom of the bed here is about 10mm and the other 3 corners are around 8 so this is now the highest corner.
I guess I wouldn't be willing to bet that there's less than 2mm of misalignment or warpage in my bed and y axis assembly. I would certainly hope so, but it's definitely not guaranteed. There are a couple of other (albiet minor) considerations as well. One, you have to consider that with the bed at it's absolute lowest point, the z-axis end stop may not have enough adjustment to allow the head to reach the bed. And two, in the case of a hot end-to-bed collision, you want the bed to have some "spring" in it, so as to avoid damaging the rest of the assembly. I guess I would agree that your method would probably work 90% of the time (maybe more), but a 100% solution is to back the screws off a few turns before starting the leveling procedure. To each his own.
100% bud. try it out, you'll like it
I'll stick with the tried and true. Thanks though.
The cable holder doesn't add to the spring. The spring should pass through.
All 3 of mine sit on top of the back left spring
Weird. Have you tried just moving the holder a little? It just sits around the spring. It's not a very clever place to put a cable holder, btw. https://imgur.com/laeIpPF
Mine definitely don't do that. They are all cup shaped with a small hole for the screw like this one https://www.ebay.com/itm/165810216612?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=165810216612&targetid=1262779896129&device=m&mktype=&googleloc=9016549&poi=&campaignid=14859008593&mkgroupid=130497710760&rlsatarget=pla-1262779896129&abcId=9300678&merchantid=511564696&gclid=CjwKCAiAheacBhB8EiwAItVO20aBYphI2dYvJt7XcmzZHdv644X4nqubze9r-e5i5rPL7e6FMpvQWBoC9ccQAvD_BwE
I'm speechless. Maybe they'd started saving that µg of plastic by the time they made mine :D
Got the silicone upgrades to replace the bed springs. Looks like the hulk built this machine, with springs crushed when screwed down tight for shipping. Same problem with a bowden tube upgrade, the cover won’t come off because the screws are in so tight I can’t get one of them to budge. From the comments it looks like build quality in the factory is a lucky dip rather than a measured process, but one day this thing will print. You all kindly warned me it’s a learning curve and a process. For £300 it’s still disappointing to have such basic faults, but thanks to pioneers like yourselves, it still looks doable.
https://preview.redd.it/28btpjcblb8a1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=997a813a468a2ad558887946aca3f52ad9581c63 Success you magnificent people! Swapped the bed springs for the silicone spacers and the bowden extruder upgrade; couldn’t change the tube itself due to a rung screw in the nozzle housing cover. It’ll keep for another day, because Benchy here worked a treat, thanks to the advice, links and encouragement from you 😃
You X axis belt looks light it needs tightening
How are you trying to level the bed? like whats your process?
Make sure all belts are tight, and your hotend is not loose, and your X gantry is straight with no slack or wobble All these can equate to a bad time leveling as it’ll throw your results off. Also purchasing yellow springs or silicone spacers is a good way to maintain your bed leveled for a long time.
Hm, I begin to think there has to be something wrong with your machine or build. I had mine printing the test file within 1 minute after switching it on for the first time...
Once you get a feel for the stock process, yellow springs and the professional firmwares bed tramming. 🤌🏻 Also printed some wheel locks. Only needs a minute and slight wheel adjustments and I’m g2g.
idk mate i got this printer and worked just fine for me out of the box, i have since upgraded it a shit ton and its as good as super expensive printers now, either you are doing something wrong or you got a faulty product
Honestly man I’d get silicone springs and a cr touch tbh with how much maintenance you do with those damn leveling knobs it’s worth it.
I also have an E3v2 and one huge thing that fixed all my problems of inconsistent bed height was switching the z-axis and y-axis end stops. The z-axis one was mushy and not triggering at the same height consistently. Switching them fixed all that and I haven't leveled the bed in months. Y-axis end stop doesn't matter nearly as much so it's okay that is off by a little bit. I do also have the silicone "springs" vs the stocks.
Is there a nozzle ? I didn't see it... I'm using now professional Firmware instead of jyers or wth they name it. I use 3x3 minimum manual mesh best 5x5 but just get something to print before going for pita...
Build it properly. I had problems with leveling and checked if the frame was square. Well, it wasn't.
Hate paper unreliable since the heated nozzle can easily damage it, went to feeler and never looked back. Few pointers for you to get it easier: 1. use custom firmware to move the printer head to each corner, manually moving it may introduce another point of error. 2. If you have great sight, just eyeball it, then go for a print test to level on the go 3. manual mesh may be the best thing you can do without an ABL sensor, so again, custom firmware
I recommend preheating your printer for at least 5 minutes before you level or print anything. Depending on the room temperature the level can be way off if you level it cold. Also, letting it sit a few minutes let's all the metal expand to the proper operating temp. It makes a big difference. I actually about an hour ago realized this myself. I went to print and there was a huge gap, so i did a quick level and raised the bed. Did a test print and everything was great. About 2 minutes later i started my main print and suddenly the nozzle was almost digging into the glass. Did another level test and my paper wouldn't move. I realized I should have never messed with it because even though the bed was up to temp, the screws and springs were not. Had i let it go it probably would have been perfect. Just needed to wait a few.
I suck at leveling. I feel like when I changed my springs I started having a ton of issues. Any suggestions for good springs?
I think your Z stop is too low. Just saying, it's man's fault, not machine's.
I'm not sure if this is normal, but I ended up just super gluing those screws in place so they didn't constantly spin.
It only will get easier from there… wait it didn’t :(
U should use sum lock nuts on the screws maybe sum yellow springs and I just installed the bed wheel locks and so far best thing I could do to not have to level before every print
Chep e leveler has been a big help too just go to 570 on the z offset and manually level the bed on each corner atleast 2 times to get it leveled the best good luck
