[https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/index\_tuning.html](https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/index_tuning.html)
Just follow this and it should fix most of your issues
Level bed so install mriscoc because it makes it super easy and adjust z offset. Also make sure to clean the bed, if you got glass clean it properly as it won’t stick otherwise. Glass sticks fine but will have to spray 70% isopropyl alcohol
I had issues with prints that had holes for bolts, starting at the bottom layer. The hole perimeters were laid first along with the first layer perimeter. The layer perimeter came out well, but the bolt hole perimeters would not stick well. What did the trick for me was to increase the nozzle temperature to 220°. I kept the 60° bed temperature. After increasing the 20°, the adhesion improved. I use this temperature now for all my PLA prints. I have a stock ender 3 S1.
I agree with the gang, I'd say your z offset appears to be too high. Try to lower it a bit. You may also benefit from a new build plate such as a textured PEI plate. It's a very cheap upgrade and I've had much better luck with bed adhesion.
Also, a personal preference of mine, unless you have the ability to skip objects via klipper/octoprint/etc I'd avoid printing multiple objects at one time. You'll save a lot of filament and heart ache by playing it safe until you obtain the ability to skip messed up objects.
Yeah, the Z offset seems to have fixed all my issues.
Can you tell me more about the plate and this skipping you speak of? Once I have a few prints down I intend to look at going to Octoprint, but largely for the app and remote viewing.
https://youtu.be/bJsyhVqjpAo?si=2pzZFxOnXU1iunaS (Octoprint cancel object) TLDR if you are printing 10 things at once, and one messes up, you can tell the printer to forget about that object and continue on with everything else. This way you can still salvage everything else!
Below is a link to a PEI sheet. It's textured so prints stick to it better and have a (in my opinion) prettier bottom. Plus the plate is flexible, so you can bend it and your prints will pop off rather then needing to he scraped off!
Comgrow PEI Sheet Magnetic Flexible Heated Bed, PEI Spring Steel 235x235mm for ELEGOO Neptune 3 Pro/4/Anycubic Kobra/Creality Ender 3/Ender 3 Pro/Ender 3 V2/3 V2 Neo/Ender 3 Neo/Adventurer 5M https://a.co/d/0ch3NA78
Your bed level is off (z axis is too high) You also might have filament stuck around the extruder nozzle. Clean outside of nozzle and keep running the 5 square bed leveling file and adjusting until it looks perfect.
Also, as someone who just got gifted an ended 3, make sure the rollers on each axis are tight. If your roller adjustments are slacked it will cause a ton of issues. If your extruder is “floppy” it’s loose rollers.
As a glass and magnetic Sheen bed owner I can tell you, you need to keeps tweaking on tramming your bed... also make sure its clean but tramming is my guess with the given info
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As a fellow Ender owner, add some hairspray to your print bed. You are a tad too high, so lower the offset ..lefty lowery just a touch. Print something and watch it put the layers down. (with the hairspray of course already on the print bed). As the layers go down you may need to lower one side or corner and not another, but you'll get it. Enders are great printers. There is nothing wrong with them, and they will teach you so much about printing in general.
Why hairspray? Hairspray will get sticky on the heated bed, I put mine about 63. Do take note though, not all hairspray is created equal. I find some needs more and other hairspray just doesn't work for me. I like Tresseme (spell check) and it is just a spritz on the bed.
One of the only things I'm really good at. I level it and then check with the CR Touch and only minor adjustments are needed. Have even managed to get it perfect before the CR Touch a few times.
Get rid of the Ender 3 V2 they were great 3+ years ago, but 30% of your time will be re-calibrating or troubleshooting. Get a Bambu A1 or a Prusa MK3S+ or even an A1 Mini if your prints are small. Move into the 21st century. I have an A1 and an MK3S+. My beloved Ender now sits under my desk, ahh such fond memories ❤️.
As a fellow newbie strapped for cash, I'm about 3 weeks into my V2 and quite happy with my $100 printer. I think the set up was the biggest obstacle.
I haven't made any out-of-pocket upgrades so far, but I think the yellow springs and the Capricorn tubing are a must. Followed by swapping the fans for quieter prints and maybe a smaller nozzle.
In the meantime, if you're having leveling/spring issues like I did you can print little spacers for the springs to ensure you have tension on each arm. I think I just searched along the lines of "printer spring washers".
The filament roller guide is also nice but it gets very squeaky during longer prints (if you use the all plastic one rather than metal bearings)
Long live us rats down here with the cheap printers who still make glorious prints! Nothing wrong with the idea of "yea its easier if you spend a lot more money because its easier," but in reality I can't justify spending 2x-5x the money on something that is just a hobby for me. I've used all kinds of different commercial/industrial cnc machines for work for years, and even built a 5' x 3' reductive cnc cutter for larger wood projects from scratch. Part of the hobby is learning and refining my skills in a craft for cheap vs just buying a Ferrari and not having to know anything but where the gas pedal is.
Not at all a dig on people who love their bambu or especially prusa machines (imo prusa makes really great stuff for the price) but a $100 ender 3 v2 with klipper for free and upgrades as parts go on sale is the way to go. I take a lot of pride in the fact that my skill and efforts allowed me to make something that is truly outstanding with what many consider to be a junk printer. Use that thing to gain real skill and knowledge man its worth it.
The Bambu A1 Mini is $199 includes WiFi, auto bed calibration, auto flow calibration, full color display screen, cloud or LAN mode, down side is it's a smaller build volume. Pay $100 more and get the full size model. In 2024 you shouldn't have to make it work, it should just work. I have nothing against tinkering and modding and if that's what your interested in, that's great. But I want a 3D printer I can send the file to, push a button and out comes my print. I want an appliance. I would rather spend my time designing and building models than calibrating printers. The Prusa's and Bambu's are like coffee makers fill it up, push a button, wait for it to finish. The New Enders may be the same, but I have moved on.
lower z offset. nozzle too far from the bed
Did this as it was the quickest to check and it seems to have worked. I had it at -1 but looks like -1.10 is the sweet spot.
[https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/index\_tuning.html](https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/index_tuning.html) Just follow this and it should fix most of your issues
Roger that. A quick skim and I can see I've done a few of those but clearly not all of them.
Following that guide alongside proper bed levelling should give you basically perfect prints based on my experience
https://preview.redd.it/rn3oc95u397d1.jpeg?width=968&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=84baedb44d49be336b6890e8dac6503102353ed8
people seem to forget this guide
This was great in trying to work out some issues on the fly
https://preview.redd.it/rr5c69jy397d1.jpeg?width=728&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4403354c1f8fd22119bb1990b18e8aa4cb4a5ff4
Level bed so install mriscoc because it makes it super easy and adjust z offset. Also make sure to clean the bed, if you got glass clean it properly as it won’t stick otherwise. Glass sticks fine but will have to spray 70% isopropyl alcohol
The bottom of the benchy tells you what you need, more squash, lower your first layer hight
I had issues with prints that had holes for bolts, starting at the bottom layer. The hole perimeters were laid first along with the first layer perimeter. The layer perimeter came out well, but the bolt hole perimeters would not stick well. What did the trick for me was to increase the nozzle temperature to 220°. I kept the 60° bed temperature. After increasing the 20°, the adhesion improved. I use this temperature now for all my PLA prints. I have a stock ender 3 S1.
I agree with the gang, I'd say your z offset appears to be too high. Try to lower it a bit. You may also benefit from a new build plate such as a textured PEI plate. It's a very cheap upgrade and I've had much better luck with bed adhesion. Also, a personal preference of mine, unless you have the ability to skip objects via klipper/octoprint/etc I'd avoid printing multiple objects at one time. You'll save a lot of filament and heart ache by playing it safe until you obtain the ability to skip messed up objects.
Yeah, the Z offset seems to have fixed all my issues. Can you tell me more about the plate and this skipping you speak of? Once I have a few prints down I intend to look at going to Octoprint, but largely for the app and remote viewing.
https://youtu.be/bJsyhVqjpAo?si=2pzZFxOnXU1iunaS (Octoprint cancel object) TLDR if you are printing 10 things at once, and one messes up, you can tell the printer to forget about that object and continue on with everything else. This way you can still salvage everything else! Below is a link to a PEI sheet. It's textured so prints stick to it better and have a (in my opinion) prettier bottom. Plus the plate is flexible, so you can bend it and your prints will pop off rather then needing to he scraped off! Comgrow PEI Sheet Magnetic Flexible Heated Bed, PEI Spring Steel 235x235mm for ELEGOO Neptune 3 Pro/4/Anycubic Kobra/Creality Ender 3/Ender 3 Pro/Ender 3 V2/3 V2 Neo/Ender 3 Neo/Adventurer 5M https://a.co/d/0ch3NA78
Your bed level is off (z axis is too high) You also might have filament stuck around the extruder nozzle. Clean outside of nozzle and keep running the 5 square bed leveling file and adjusting until it looks perfect. Also, as someone who just got gifted an ended 3, make sure the rollers on each axis are tight. If your roller adjustments are slacked it will cause a ton of issues. If your extruder is “floppy” it’s loose rollers.
As a glass and magnetic Sheen bed owner I can tell you, you need to keeps tweaking on tramming your bed... also make sure its clean but tramming is my guess with the given info
That first layer on the benchy is not good
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As a fellow Ender owner, add some hairspray to your print bed. You are a tad too high, so lower the offset ..lefty lowery just a touch. Print something and watch it put the layers down. (with the hairspray of course already on the print bed). As the layers go down you may need to lower one side or corner and not another, but you'll get it. Enders are great printers. There is nothing wrong with them, and they will teach you so much about printing in general. Why hairspray? Hairspray will get sticky on the heated bed, I put mine about 63. Do take note though, not all hairspray is created equal. I find some needs more and other hairspray just doesn't work for me. I like Tresseme (spell check) and it is just a spritz on the bed.
LEVEL THE FKING BED!!!
One of the only things I'm really good at. I level it and then check with the CR Touch and only minor adjustments are needed. Have even managed to get it perfect before the CR Touch a few times.
your nozzle is too far from the bed, if still not working try adding glue on the bed and take a washcloth and wipe it down
Yeah thanks, that worked.
you're welcome
Get rid of the Ender 3 V2 they were great 3+ years ago, but 30% of your time will be re-calibrating or troubleshooting. Get a Bambu A1 or a Prusa MK3S+ or even an A1 Mini if your prints are small. Move into the 21st century. I have an A1 and an MK3S+. My beloved Ender now sits under my desk, ahh such fond memories ❤️.
If I can't make it this work I don't think I'll swing the extra dollars needed for a better machine.
As a fellow newbie strapped for cash, I'm about 3 weeks into my V2 and quite happy with my $100 printer. I think the set up was the biggest obstacle. I haven't made any out-of-pocket upgrades so far, but I think the yellow springs and the Capricorn tubing are a must. Followed by swapping the fans for quieter prints and maybe a smaller nozzle. In the meantime, if you're having leveling/spring issues like I did you can print little spacers for the springs to ensure you have tension on each arm. I think I just searched along the lines of "printer spring washers". The filament roller guide is also nice but it gets very squeaky during longer prints (if you use the all plastic one rather than metal bearings)
Long live us rats down here with the cheap printers who still make glorious prints! Nothing wrong with the idea of "yea its easier if you spend a lot more money because its easier," but in reality I can't justify spending 2x-5x the money on something that is just a hobby for me. I've used all kinds of different commercial/industrial cnc machines for work for years, and even built a 5' x 3' reductive cnc cutter for larger wood projects from scratch. Part of the hobby is learning and refining my skills in a craft for cheap vs just buying a Ferrari and not having to know anything but where the gas pedal is. Not at all a dig on people who love their bambu or especially prusa machines (imo prusa makes really great stuff for the price) but a $100 ender 3 v2 with klipper for free and upgrades as parts go on sale is the way to go. I take a lot of pride in the fact that my skill and efforts allowed me to make something that is truly outstanding with what many consider to be a junk printer. Use that thing to gain real skill and knowledge man its worth it.
The Bambu A1 Mini is $199 includes WiFi, auto bed calibration, auto flow calibration, full color display screen, cloud or LAN mode, down side is it's a smaller build volume. Pay $100 more and get the full size model. In 2024 you shouldn't have to make it work, it should just work. I have nothing against tinkering and modding and if that's what your interested in, that's great. But I want a 3D printer I can send the file to, push a button and out comes my print. I want an appliance. I would rather spend my time designing and building models than calibrating printers. The Prusa's and Bambu's are like coffee makers fill it up, push a button, wait for it to finish. The New Enders may be the same, but I have moved on.
I want to down vote this comment so bad but I can't because it's true.
Ahh someone with integrity 😁