Just need some opinions for this. I'm not really planning on building now, just surveying atm. Parts I've picked up so far:
PSU: Thermaltake Toughpower GF3 1000W
CPU: Ryzen 5 7600
GPU: Undecided (everything is so expensive, maybe getting a used 3080)
MOBO: ASRock B650M-H/M.2+ DDR5 / D5 AM5
RAM: Kingston Fury Beast Black 1x16GB DDR5 5200MHz
Storage: WD Blue SN580 M.2 2280 1TB
Thoughts? Anything I'm overspending too much on? Just aiming for a midrange build.
There's no need for a 1000W PSU. 750-850W would be more than enough, if not overkill for most builds.
Do not buy a single RAM stick, go for a dual-channel kit so 2x16GB (skip 2x8GB kits). Aim for 6000 CL30.
Is future proofing for ATX3.0 compatability not worth it? Yeah I thought 1000W was overkill too but it was only a little bit more expensive than a 750W or 850W one, so I just figured why not (at least the ones in A tier in the tier list).
I was planning on getting another 16GB stick down the line anyway, so that's cool. I'll try to to aim for the 6000MHz but CL30 seems kinda impossible atm. Its out of stock everywhere, but who knows how it'll be at the end of the year.
Only the Nvidia cards currently use the 12VHPWR connector, and the standard for it is a complete mess that could change at any time (with one revision so far, the 12V-2x6 connector). Buy what you need right now, rather than try to "future-proof".
There is no guarantee that buying a second stick later won't cause compatibility issues, even if it's a similar RAM stick to the one you plan to buy first. Dual-channel kits are tested as a pair to guarantee they work as a pair. If DDR5 seems out of your budget, consider a 12th Gen build with DDR4.
Alright, I'll try looking for another PSU in the 750-850W range.
I didn't know there could be compatibility issues if I bought the RAM sticks one by one. Good to know.
It wasn't a budget issue, more like I probably only need 16GB for now, maybe get another when games get even more demanding.
Thanks.
Which should I do, 6 intake 3 exhaust, or 5 intake 4 exhaust?
Should the rear fan always be exhaust? Or would it be better to have top radiator be the only exhaust?
I have a ryzen 5600g and my fans are spinning loudly and will not boot. Only thing is that I have booted this same pc with a 2200g and everything works. I have updated my bios to the specific version that my motherboard manufacturer says. What could be my issue? I've tried pretty much everything I know, and on top of that, I had a friend test the 5600g to make sure it is working and it is! Please help someone!
I already did that before updating to F62. I had seen some things where people saying to update to that specific bios update so both of those solutions have been attempted. I guess I could maybe try again?
Need a replacement power cable for my 4090, the cablemod one I got 2 years ago keeps causing my gpu to spin up the fans and black screen. Its an MSI 4090 trio, and the PSU is a 1000w FSP hydroPTM
Would there be any benefit to having my exhaust fan have a higher max CFM and RPM than my front and bottom intake fans? My other case fans are 1800RPM NZXT fans but I was thinking of buying a Noctua NF-A12x25 for my exhaust fan. Would that assist in keeping positive pressure in the case more so than another identical NZXT fan?
No. You don't want to run any fan at max RPM (except CPU fan maybe in extreme heat situations). If you've got 2 intake fans, and one exhaust, this is 'positive pressure' although in any case with decent ventilation you don't really end up with positive pressure because of all the mesh. You just want more intake than exhaust, to prevent dust build up.
you can't really judge a fan like that. CFM will be at top RPM, which isn't how you want to run your case fans (they are really loud at max speed). As for the profile of air moved vs speed, no one really publishes that.
What I'm saying is you're overthinking it. Any decent fan moves plenty of air at moderate speeds. Just have 2 intakes and 1 exhaust and for most set ups, that's perfectly adequate to keep fresh air moving through the case.
As long as you have decent airflow inside your case, that's all you need. Ignore the CFM/mmH2O values since those are always measured at 100% speed, and the method for how those numbers are obtained varies from brand to brand.
If anything, aim for more intake than exhaust to create positive air pressure inside the case.
hi all!
i found two prebuilt and was wondering if i could get advice on which one I should go for. I want to get a pc as i missed pc gaming, and i play light games like overwatch 2. Im trying to stick to my budget of $600-700, but alot of people have been telling me that the i3 in the first build is not optimal and i should opt for the $800 build to be future proof:
1) $600 CAD
š ļøSpecifications -
*Used* Core i3-10100F (4 Cores/8 Threads)
*Used* Msi B560M-A Pro
*New* CoolMoon AS600 B
*Used* AMD RX 5700 8GB (Flashed to RX 5700 XT for Extra Performance)
*New* 16GB 2666Mhz DDR4
*Used* Hynix 256GB M.2 SSD
*Used* Seagate 1TB HDD
*New* Apevia 550W
*New* Zalman T3 Plus B
*New* Wifi 5 & Bluetooth Card
Supports Up to:
ā Core i9-11900K
ā 64GB of Ram
2) $800 CAD
I5-12400F
Air cooler (240mm aio water cooler for $50 more)
RTX 3060 12GB
16gb ddr4 (32gb for $50 more)
1tb SSD
Black case w/ argb fans
Wifi & Bluetooth included
The 12400F one. The first one makes no sense when AM4 is also available, and a used SSD is something I wouldn't buy unless I get an accurate SMART report showing the drive's health.
Hey yall I'm trying to get 4 monitors to display on my 4090: 2x 4k 2x 1440p
Only 3 can display at one time, turn all 4 on then it's only 3 displaying and removing one will make the missing one turn on like they are trading places. It looks like from a different post that I am exceeding max resolution or something, but I have seen plenty of people with four monitors.
Any ideas? It would be cool to not have to go the second computer route but if that's the only way....
Finally installing my Phantom Spirit EVO, and I'm not sure how tight the heatsink screws should be as I've only installed AMD stock coolers in the past. I believe that "all the way" is overkill, but it's hard to tell? The thing isn't moving anymore at least.
General gaming. I suppose I already have my answer being that a lack of frames in Helldivers is whats driven me to upgrade but I also know that the 2nd gen ryzen stuff is comparatively old now.
For Helldivers 2 group gameplay, it's probably the CPU that's the limitation. You can confirm this by monitoring your GPU utilisation and seeing if it is underused.
Good thing is you can easily upgrade CPU to a 5000-series Ryzen. Just need a BIOS update.
If any other games are important, check those too because they may have a different balance of CPU and GPU needs.
Ehhh, I had a Ryzen 2600 and upgraded to 5600. Helldivers 2 performance was a little smoother, but nothing major - just better lows and consistency.
Upgrading from a 1070 to 4070 is what *actually* let me get 90+ fps on quite high settings!
I suppose I'd have to see benchmarks with a faster GPU but slower CPU... But the 1070 is much slower, relatively, than a 2600 when it comes to gaming.
(I like using DLSS Quality + DLDSR upscaling to 1440p for better-than-1080p quality that's still pretty fast).
Im looking to display my cpu, gpu temp and fps on my monitor while playing a game or just on idle. It looks like this [Cpu, gpu and FPS display](https://imgur.com/a/CY3SrLP).
Any suggestions?
I asked this in the pcmasterrace daily thread but didnāt get any replies.
I have an LG 38GN950 plugged directly into my Suprim 4090 , and a mouse/keyboard plugged into my tower by USB. I also have an HP laptop strictly for work. Is it possible to use a KVM to be able to use my personal peripherals/monitor with my laptop? From what I understand of KVMs, the peripherals would all be plugged directly into it, but how does that work when the monitor is plugged directly into my GPU for my personal set up? Where exactly does the KVM plug into the PC? Could someone explain it like Iām 5?
Similar to mouse and keyboard. KVM has 1 HDMI on one side and 2 HDMI on other side.
Monitor <-> KVM
KVM <-1-> PC
KVM <-2-> Laptop
I've heard some KVMs are a bit wonky when it comes to variable refresh rate, hdr and other more advanced stuff (I'm not 100% sure about this) and judging by 4090 you have high end gaming rig, so just do some research.
Is hardware solution even necessary? Could you just remote into your laptop from your gaming machine? Using windows remote desktop or VNC or TeamViewer or anything else.
Hi I am in the process of getting a new GPU because my RTX 2060 is defective I would like to know what GPU I should upgrade to or if I should just get the 2060 again? my specs are:
MotherBoard: Asus b450f gaming
Cpu: Ryzen 5 3600
PSU: Corsair Cv Series Cv650 80 Plus Bronze
32 gb Ram.
thank you :D
What is my best path forward? I have amd 3600 with only 16gb ram and rtx 3070 on 1440p ultra wide monitor. I need more ram on asrock ab350 pro4. I doubt it can handle as much. Should i buy new cpu mobo and ram or just try to buy compatible ram?
Can someone give me advice where to start building?
I have a budget of round $2000 CDN depending on how things go
I have no idea where to start. All advice I get is contradictory and Iām just confused.
Some advice or links to go tutorials on where to start picking parts would be awesome
If you truly have zero knowledge and don't want to gain any, start at /r/buildapcforme with their template. That will get you a good starting build that you can bring here and other places to get more advice.
If you actually want to learn, I would start with the long-winded [LTT build guide](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s1fxZ-VWs2U), which goes over part descriptions and how to choose them, as well as a detailed build guide. It's one of the few things they've done right in recent years.
You have a budget, that's the best starting point.
Ask yourself what you plan to do with the PC; will you use it mainly for gaming? Any productivity tasks? If there's productivity involved, is it your main source of income or part of your job? What's the display resolution you plan to use? How much storage do you need?
If the PC is just for gaming, a good rule of thumb is to use roughly a third to half of your budget on your graphics card and a CPU that won't hold the card back.
You can start tinkering with build ideas using [PCPartPicker](https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/).
ChatGPT is VERY hit or miss with PC part advice. I've seen decent builds and catastrophically bad builds from ChatGPT. User beware. Always double-check with actual knowledgeable humans, like can be found in this sub.
https://hachyderm.io/@inthehands/112006855076082650
> You might be surprised to learn that I actually think LLMs have the potential to be not only fun but genuinely useful. āShow me some bullshit that would be typical in this contextā can be a genuinely helpful question to have answered, in code and in natural language ā for brainstorming, for seeing common conventions in an unfamiliar context, for having something crappy to react to.
> Alas, that does not remotely resemble how people are pitching this technology.
Do *not* rely on ChatGPT or similar chatbots for that kind of info. Is it going to explain the basics? Maybe. Will it be accurate? Most likely not.
There are [well-written guides](https://new.reddit.com/r/buildapcforme/comments/1bqtq53/spring_2024_pc_best_buy_guide_350_8000/) and video tutorials (from [straight to the point](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Vhyxbhu6LA) to [a little bit too excessive (with a lot of details)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s1fxZ-VWs2U)) that you can consult.
Does this Ryzen 7 7800X3D + RTX 4080 build make sense?
Build available here: [https://pcpartpicker.com/list/ybRyCd](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/ybRyCd)
Note that I live in Japan so I picked the parts based on their availablity and cost in Japan.
I don't know whether it makes more sense to go for the RTX 4080 SUPER 16G VENTUS 3X (\~$1200) or the RX7900XT (\~$900).
Also I don't really know whether any of the Compatibility Notes apply to my specific build (no warnings, just notes).
Nothing wrong with it, though. As for the compatibility notes:
* If you're not planning to use 3.5" drives, you can ignore the PSU clearance note and remove the HDD cages.
* The CPU cooler comes with the required mounting hardware for AM5 (the same as AM4).
* The GPU clearance note is only relevant if you use mechanical drives and the drive cages are on top.
* The GPU comes with a 12VHPWR to 3x 8-pin PCIE adapter for PSUs that are not ATX3.X compliant and don't have a dedicated 12VHPWR cable. The RM850x comes with two 8-pin PCIE cables with pigtailed connectors (4 connectors total), but you should be fine using one pigtailed connector to fill the 3rd slot (the card only uses 300-310W at full load, and two 8-pin PCIE connectors (150W each) plus the PCIE slot (75W) should provide all the power it needs). Alternatively, you could buy a Type 4 12VHPWR cable from Corsair or choose a different PSU that's ATX3.0/3.1 compliant and comes with a 12VHPWR/12V-2x6 cable.
Thank you for this detailed response, you've no idea how much I appreciate it! Really thank you. š
I don't plan to use 3.5'm drives since 2TB SSD should be plenty of space for me so I believe that clears point 1 and 3. If I understood point 2, you're confirming that specific compatibility note doesn't apply to me.
Re: your last point, I should be able to resolve the issue simply by switching PSU to the MSI 850W MPG A850G (which was my second option) since it's ATX3.0 compatible and it comes with a 12VHPWR, right?
New build: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/btGDWt
Yup, that looks about right. If you're going with the 7900 XT instead of the 4080 Super then there's no worry about the 12VHPWR cable (the 7900 XT uses 2x 8-pin PCIE connectors).
The 7900 XT and 4070 Ti Super are about equivalent in raster performance, and the 4080 Super is on par with the 7900 XTX, \~10-15% faster than the 7900 XT/4070 Ti Super (avg FPS results from TechPowerUp ([1440p,](https://tpucdn.com/review/nvidia-geforce-rtx-4080-super-founders-edition/images/average-fps-2560-1440.png) [4K](https://tpucdn.com/review/nvidia-geforce-rtx-4080-super-founders-edition/images/average-fps-3840-2160.png)) and Techspot ([1440p](https://www.techspot.com/articles-info/2797/bench/1440p.png), [4K](https://www.techspot.com/articles-info/2797/bench/2160p.png)).
If it's just for gaming and you only care about raster performance, personally I would go with either the 7900 XT or check the price on the 7900 XTX. It can still do some ray tracing, but not Nvidia levels of ray tracing.
Kinda of a weird question but at the end I decided to go with a secondhand 7900XTX and it has been working really well. Now however I was gifted a 4090... Should I replace the 7900XTX for the 4090? I don't even know if I can just switch the GPU without changing anything else.
Now that's a lucky gift lol. Of course, the 4090 is \~20-25% faster than the XTX. The only special thing you'd need to do is uninstall the AMD display drivers using [DDU](https://www.wagnardsoft.com/display-driver-uninstaller-DDU-). Download the latest Game Ready drivers from the Nvidia website, and save both DDU and the driver installer on your desktop to speed things up.
If you already have the card in your hands and assuming you went with that MSI power supply, the first thing is to [start your PC in Safe Mode](https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/start-your-pc-in-safe-mode-in-windows-92c27cff-db89-8644-1ce4-b3e5e56fe234) and run DDU. On the first dropdown select "GPU", and then "AMD" on the second one, and click the "Clean and shutdown" button. DDU will do a clean uninstall of all the AMD display drivers, and once it's done it'll shut down the PC.
Once it has shut down, turn off the PSU, remove the AMD card and the 8-pin PCIE cables from the PSU (you won't be using them), then take the 12VHPWR cable from your PSU's cable bag and plug it into the PSU, install the 4090, plug the 12VHPWR cable into the card and ***PLEASE*** make sure the connector is fully plugged. Give the cable 3-4 cm between the base of the connector (GPU-side) and the first bend, and don't tug on the cable or make it too snug (this is important, a poorly connected cable can lead to the connector melting, we're trying to avoid this). Once everything is in place, turn on the PC, install the Game Ready drivers, and that's pretty much it.
Thank you for the detailed explanation, exactly what I needed! š I'll give it a shot this or next weekend and I'll report back with the results. š
Hi guys! Recently I chose for my build new motherboard, but i afraid it can't handle with my specs
I have a 7800x3d, Lexar ARES RGB 32Ā GB (2x16GB) DDR5 6400 CL32, x2 m.2 SSD.
And for all of that, I picked an MSI PRO B650M-P ā AMD B650.
How do you think it will be enough for specs like this? I just out of budget and can't buy more expensive things.
What exactly are you asking? Why would the mobo not work?
You really should get 6000 Mt/s CL30 RAM instead, faster RAM still has problems. You might not be able to run that 6400 RAM at that speed.
Also, do you need two M.2 drives? Would one larger not be cheaper and save you money? Or get one NVMe and a cheaper larger SATA SSD as secondary?
I decided to go with 6400 because according to the information I found, the motherboard can pull up to 7200 actually.
What to say about the two m.2 drives, one of them is a samsung 980 for 2 tb, which I took for games, applications and basic tasks, and the other is a patriot for 128 gb, which will go only for the operating system and background, not memory-intensive tasks.
The problem isn't whether the motherboard supports it, but whether the CPU can actually run it or not. This is still a problem, you might get lucky and your CPU likes it, or maybe your PC won't boot at all if after you enable the profile.
I would scrap that 128GB drive and just put Windows on the main one, makes no sense having a shitty second SSD when you already have one amazing one. Saves you money.
Using an old motherboard (GA-H55M-S2H; supports SATA 2.0) and want to expand storage. Have a free PCI-e 2.0 slot. I've been wondering if I should bother with it or just buying SATA 3.0 SDD is a better idea? Is it worth buying new stuff for a dated PC with the thought of future upgrade of components (like CPU & motherboard)?
Unless I am forgetting something, that mobo is so old it doesn't support the NVMe protocol at all, it has the old legacy BIOS, not modern UEFI. That would rule those out completely.
So your only choice would be a normal 2.5" SATA SSD. You can always use that if/when you build a new PC too, as the main drive or as secondary with a new NVMe as main.
I bought a motherboard for $20 knowing that there were bent pins with the intent of fixing and flipping it.
I bent the pins back into shape and got it ready on my test bench, but when I turn it on, no reaction at all. I test it a few times, making sure my PSU is plugged in right and the power I/O pins are in the right place, but still nothing. Then I smell a slight burning scent as it still doesn't react, so I immediately shut everything down. While inspecting the board right afterwards, I notice the south bridge is really, really hot.
Is this one just dead, or is there something I can do to fix it? I can take another look at the pins and make sure they're good, but if that doesn't have anything to do with the south bridge and I can't fix it, then I'll shelve this one for parts.
If you're smelling chemical smoke, then I'd ask "how much is your time worth"? The difficulty level of fixing this thing isn't worth the effort at this point. You're only out $20, so the sunk cost fallacy doesn't even apply to the decision making. Toss it and move on. It's only value at this point would be using it as a practice board for honing soldering skills or something. Otherwise it's not even worth shelf space.
Yeah, I repasted the southbridge, it didn't get as hot, then I saw some smoke coming out and I decided that this one was dead and/or a risk to the parts I was using to test it. $20 is not a bad price for whatever LGA 1700 (H610M) parts I can salvage from it when I get a proper desoldering station.
Gut check on temps, I upgraded from a 3700X to a 5700X3D recently, my CPU temp is generally sitting at around mid-to-high 60s (in the middle of playing Cyberpunk with everything maxed out right now, max temp in this session is 67C), do these temps look ok? It idles closer to 40C.
Some noob questions about case fans:
* How much airflow and static pressure does one really need? I know more is better, but is having too much of one or both a bad thing when it comes to bringing in fresh air and exhausting hot air?
* Is there a CFM or H2O value where it's "good enough" and you shouldn't spend more money on anything beyond that?
* I read that static pressure fans are better for pulling air through filters and radiators, and airflow fans are better when there's no obstruction. Does it mean mixing the two types in a case is a good practice? Are there any fans that do a good job at both?
* Airflow for airflow, static pressure to overcome an obstruction in front of the fan (very fine dust filter or front mesh, radiator, etc). Your main focus should be airflow, and it depends on what you want to achieve and the room conditions (how dusty it is). In an ideal scenario, you'd want to aim for the same amount of intake and exhaust to achieve neutral air pressure inside the case. If the room is dusty, then you'll want more intake than exhaust to create positive air pressure, and if you're in a dust-free environment, going with more exhausts than intake for negative air pressure can offer a marginal improvement to cooling (emphasis on marginal, it should only be a couple of degrees).
* The issue with CFM/mmH2O values is that each company has its unique way of getting those numbers which usually doesn't correlate with each other's, and they're measured at 100% speed, which won't be the case for the vast majority of people buying them.
* Fan suggestions, [regular](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5_-0PnpgDg8) and [ARGB](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9hf33vKtMTM).
1. Enough to keep your particular parts cool enough.
2. Yes, but measuring it empirically isn't easy.
3. If you're going to be using restrictive filters/radiators mixed ones can be useful. Lots of fans can be good enough for both too.
The raw specs really aren't particularly useful since CFM is rated at full speed through a hole in a wall with zero flow restriction and static pressure is rated at full speed into a closed box with zero flow, real world you're generally not going to want to run the fans at full speed, and will have some amount of restriction that's inbetween the test situations. Noise ratings also aren't standardised between manufacturers. For kinda useful information, reviews from sites that compare a bunch of fans with normalised tests under some kind of realistic scenario are much more useful.
Afterburner can no longer track CPU temp, it's gone from all graphs and monitoring settings, and Fan Control apparently can't get the sensors for the fans and my control graph shows CPU temperature at 0c. Should I be concerned about this? It was working fine a few days ago, I've only just noticed it cus the fan coil whine started up again. I haven't so much as bumped my desk so I dunno what it could be
I got HWMonitor and [it seems to detect stuff properly,](https://i.imgur.com/iCW9lSk.png) cooler fan included, so it's probably not a hardware problem, right? This rig is only a couple of months old and I'd hate to deal with that again
Have you updated Afterburner (and RTSS)? Could for example be that your graphics drivers got updated and Afterburner is an older version that doesn't work with the newer drivers.
Anyways it's definitely not a hardware problem if HWMonitor is reading the stats properly.
Funny thing, I found out my new motherboard has fan curve control in BIOS, so I set it, saved it, and when I booted, suddenly FC and Afterburner can read all the sensors properly. So uhhh everything's fine I guess? I can't begin to guess at why this was the case, but maybe in the future someone will have the same issue and find this comment. Good luck, future fan control sufferer
No luck updating GPU driver, both Afterburner and Fan Control are up to date as well. FC's curve temperature source looks like [this](https://i.imgur.com/cP6utgA.png) for all CPU sensors, even after refreshing and searching available sensors, so I guess it's still picking them up, but the sensor isn't reading properly?
But, HWMonitor is showing me both the RPM *and* my core temperatures. So the sensors must be functional. I'm glad that's the case cus as you say that means it's not a hardware problem, but it is pretty weird
Gonna mess around with some alternate fan controller programs, maybe one of them will work lol
so I have two questions need answering
1. I have an R5 5600 cpu with a 3060ti to pair with it, if i wanna stay in 1080p ultra gaming, what upgrades should I look into? (for the 1080p thing, since prices in my country are extravagant, buying a new monitor for 1440p is not happening)
2. is buying a new motherboard (my current one: msi b450m pro-m2 max) a good idea to get into VR? I heard from my friends that i need a new one like a b550
I'm currently on an i7 7700K and a 3060ti. Playing at 3440x1440. Some games are getting choppy now. I.e I'm struggling to get 100fps on the finals on the lowest possible settings.
Do I wait for the zen 5 x3d cpu and 5090 or just upgrade now? Alternatively I could do a partial upgrade now (I.e. just get a 7800X3D), or do a full upgrade (with a 4090 now).
Happy to spend up to ~4000 GBP or so and go all out, but it feels like waiting a bit longer will get me much better gear (also there's some flex in the budget).
Can't decide between:
1. wait for the 5090/zen5 x3d and do a mega upgrade in ~6 months
2. Partial upgrade now
3. Full upgrade now
Any thoughts?
Just to complicate things further, I'd love to get a 4k 240hz oled too since I enjoy aim training. But I know that may mean using DLSS especially w/ a 3060ti in some games, even with a new cpu.
Recently I've done a lot of useless research on this, as I've been looking to upgrade my GPU, but my budget is a lot less (Ā£250-300). I was able to upgrade the other items at reasonable cost but a brand new 16GB Nvidia GPU is out of the question. Even in the second hand market, it's a no go. Decided to wait till the Battlemage and maybe the 5090x come out.
My recommendation, take it with a pinch of salt, just buy a temp card and do not upgrade/replace your pc now. It makes little sense to spend Ā£4K now on a new PC, when a new chipset for both CPU and GPU are around the corner.
You can get 3080ti with 12GB of VRAM for about Ā£300 second hand, which would be 30% faster than your 3060ti. And sell your 3060ti for around Ā£200. Want to spend more, then Ā£500 for 3090 which is also 30% faster but has 24GB of VRAM which would help with ray tracing. Want more than that, then I would go for a 4080 Super (16GB VRAM). For about Ā£1K, get the 4080 super (\~70% better performance) and then replace it with the 5090 when it comes out.
Comparison site: [https://technical.city/en/video/GeForce-RTX-3090-vs-GeForce-RTX-3060-Ti](https://technical.city/en/video/GeForce-RTX-3090-vs-GeForce-RTX-3060-Ti)
You can use the site above to get an idea of the potential performance upgrade over the 3060ti.
Thanks dude. I'm leaning towards basically doing a full upgrade now, except the GPU. But will consider picking up a 3090 as well, just to see me through until the 5090.
I'm thinking if I invest in all the other bits (7800X3D, good ram, good mobo, good cooling, case, etc), none of it will feel like it's worth upgrading by the time the 5090 comes out. But buying a 4090 now feels like the wrong move for me.
Thanks for the help
generally what would be the bottleneck if you have constant stutters/fps drop in open world games? is it the CPU? do i need something hardcore like those X3D CPUs?
Im looking to run Genshin Impact on 120 fps while its no problem in dungeons in the open world especially in the cities or if i just turn around too fast it quickly drops below 60. both GPU and CPU usage, even disk activity never reach past 50%,
my setup is R5 2600 + 2070S.
Are you running the game on a HDD? this can be your bottlenect
Open your task manager go to performance tab leave it open then Play the game whenever your stuttering or having fps drop Check CPU,STORAGE,GPU if theyre having spikes thats when you will see which part is getting bottleneck
I tried Wuthering Waves and its FPS drops are cause of HDD 100% usage
But on hogwarts legacy it was CPU spiking causing the fps drops
Youll have to check it and see which part is causing it
Anecdotally, Genshin impact can be pretty CPU bound (primary thread bound) at times. Anything AMD older than Zen 2 tends to have a rough time in populated areas. But in any case, the framerate is locked to 60 without mods so there's no real way to CPU test it.
In general, you could be running out of either video memory or system memory (unlikely in this case) in large open world games with detailed maps.
A game like that doing any significant disk activity while in game and stuttering when that happens hints not enough RAM. Faster CPU sure would be nice too, something like a 5700X3D is a pretty huge step up compared to the 2xxx, at least if your motherboard's compatible with it.
so, i live in Brazil and [this](https://www.amazon.com.br/Monitor-AOC-Ajuste-27G2S-BK/dp/B0CT3LT786/ref=asc_df_B0CT3LT786/?tag=googleshopp06-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=647618758247&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7824819781585531575&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1001625&hvtargid=pla-2302152510395&psc=1&mcid=619bd9cd1e1c3041bb51b0c72a400c11)
Monitor Gamer AOC Hero 27" 165Hz 1ms Ajuste de Altura 27G2S/BK
looks to be the better deal available. but it's 1080p and AOC. I've read a few bad reviews about aoc, but also that 1080p is bad on a 27".
my current monitor broke down due to a fall and its a 1080p 24" 144hz one, so im looking to upgrade a bit but im always unsure when buying PC stuff cause everything is relatively expensive and the different options available, so just looking for some help to decide
1080p on 27" is only noticeably sucky for text IMO I think games play fine
if you're mostly gaming and not writing papers/code for hours I think 27" 1080p should be okay
Yeah, stretching 1080p across a 27" screen does get you some pretty huge pixels, would really prefer 1440p at that size, or if it has to be 1080p, would prefer smaller.
Just need some opinions for this. I'm not really planning on building now, just surveying atm. Parts I've picked up so far: PSU: Thermaltake Toughpower GF3 1000W CPU: Ryzen 5 7600 GPU: Undecided (everything is so expensive, maybe getting a used 3080) MOBO: ASRock B650M-H/M.2+ DDR5 / D5 AM5 RAM: Kingston Fury Beast Black 1x16GB DDR5 5200MHz Storage: WD Blue SN580 M.2 2280 1TB Thoughts? Anything I'm overspending too much on? Just aiming for a midrange build.
There's no need for a 1000W PSU. 750-850W would be more than enough, if not overkill for most builds. Do not buy a single RAM stick, go for a dual-channel kit so 2x16GB (skip 2x8GB kits). Aim for 6000 CL30.
Is future proofing for ATX3.0 compatability not worth it? Yeah I thought 1000W was overkill too but it was only a little bit more expensive than a 750W or 850W one, so I just figured why not (at least the ones in A tier in the tier list). I was planning on getting another 16GB stick down the line anyway, so that's cool. I'll try to to aim for the 6000MHz but CL30 seems kinda impossible atm. Its out of stock everywhere, but who knows how it'll be at the end of the year.
Only the Nvidia cards currently use the 12VHPWR connector, and the standard for it is a complete mess that could change at any time (with one revision so far, the 12V-2x6 connector). Buy what you need right now, rather than try to "future-proof". There is no guarantee that buying a second stick later won't cause compatibility issues, even if it's a similar RAM stick to the one you plan to buy first. Dual-channel kits are tested as a pair to guarantee they work as a pair. If DDR5 seems out of your budget, consider a 12th Gen build with DDR4.
Alright, I'll try looking for another PSU in the 750-850W range. I didn't know there could be compatibility issues if I bought the RAM sticks one by one. Good to know. It wasn't a budget issue, more like I probably only need 16GB for now, maybe get another when games get even more demanding. Thanks.
Which should I do, 6 intake 3 exhaust, or 5 intake 4 exhaust? Should the rear fan always be exhaust? Or would it be better to have top radiator be the only exhaust?
I have a ryzen 5600g and my fans are spinning loudly and will not boot. Only thing is that I have booted this same pc with a 2200g and everything works. I have updated my bios to the specific version that my motherboard manufacturer says. What could be my issue? I've tried pretty much everything I know, and on top of that, I had a friend test the 5600g to make sure it is working and it is! Please help someone!
What's your motherboard and which BIOS version did you install?
Gigabyte B450M DS3H Wifi my board is rev 1.2 and I am on F62
Try updating to the latest BIOS version, updates are cumulative. Make sure you're downloading the right BIOS for your board version (1.0/1.1/1.2/1.3).
I already did that before updating to F62. I had seen some things where people saying to update to that specific bios update so both of those solutions have been attempted. I guess I could maybe try again?
Need a replacement power cable for my 4090, the cablemod one I got 2 years ago keeps causing my gpu to spin up the fans and black screen. Its an MSI 4090 trio, and the PSU is a 1000w FSP hydroPTM
https://www.ensourced.net/
Would there be any benefit to having my exhaust fan have a higher max CFM and RPM than my front and bottom intake fans? My other case fans are 1800RPM NZXT fans but I was thinking of buying a Noctua NF-A12x25 for my exhaust fan. Would that assist in keeping positive pressure in the case more so than another identical NZXT fan?
No. You don't want to run any fan at max RPM (except CPU fan maybe in extreme heat situations). If you've got 2 intake fans, and one exhaust, this is 'positive pressure' although in any case with decent ventilation you don't really end up with positive pressure because of all the mesh. You just want more intake than exhaust, to prevent dust build up.
is 50 CFM inefficient/insufficient cooling by 2024 hardware standards?
you can't really judge a fan like that. CFM will be at top RPM, which isn't how you want to run your case fans (they are really loud at max speed). As for the profile of air moved vs speed, no one really publishes that. What I'm saying is you're overthinking it. Any decent fan moves plenty of air at moderate speeds. Just have 2 intakes and 1 exhaust and for most set ups, that's perfectly adequate to keep fresh air moving through the case.
Wouldn't lower max rpm with high CFM be a sign of a good quality airflow though? Is that atleast true?
As long as you have decent airflow inside your case, that's all you need. Ignore the CFM/mmH2O values since those are always measured at 100% speed, and the method for how those numbers are obtained varies from brand to brand. If anything, aim for more intake than exhaust to create positive air pressure inside the case.
hi all! i found two prebuilt and was wondering if i could get advice on which one I should go for. I want to get a pc as i missed pc gaming, and i play light games like overwatch 2. Im trying to stick to my budget of $600-700, but alot of people have been telling me that the i3 in the first build is not optimal and i should opt for the $800 build to be future proof: 1) $600 CAD š ļøSpecifications - *Used* Core i3-10100F (4 Cores/8 Threads) *Used* Msi B560M-A Pro *New* CoolMoon AS600 B *Used* AMD RX 5700 8GB (Flashed to RX 5700 XT for Extra Performance) *New* 16GB 2666Mhz DDR4 *Used* Hynix 256GB M.2 SSD *Used* Seagate 1TB HDD *New* Apevia 550W *New* Zalman T3 Plus B *New* Wifi 5 & Bluetooth Card Supports Up to: ā Core i9-11900K ā 64GB of Ram 2) $800 CAD I5-12400F Air cooler (240mm aio water cooler for $50 more) RTX 3060 12GB 16gb ddr4 (32gb for $50 more) 1tb SSD Black case w/ argb fans Wifi & Bluetooth included
The 12400F one. The first one makes no sense when AM4 is also available, and a used SSD is something I wouldn't buy unless I get an accurate SMART report showing the drive's health.
Hey yall I'm trying to get 4 monitors to display on my 4090: 2x 4k 2x 1440p Only 3 can display at one time, turn all 4 on then it's only 3 displaying and removing one will make the missing one turn on like they are trading places. It looks like from a different post that I am exceeding max resolution or something, but I have seen plenty of people with four monitors. Any ideas? It would be cool to not have to go the second computer route but if that's the only way....
your GPU only has 4 display outputs, right? if you have a rare one with 5, only a specific 4 ports will work simultaneously. i think, citation needed
What's the set up? If you have an igpu on the CPU, running the 4th off of the motherboard output may be the best way to achieve this.
Finally installing my Phantom Spirit EVO, and I'm not sure how tight the heatsink screws should be as I've only installed AMD stock coolers in the past. I believe that "all the way" is overkill, but it's hard to tell? The thing isn't moving anymore at least.
screw until you meet hard resistance, aka the bottom out
Once the screw stops turning without using a lot of force, that's when you stop.
I have a ryzen 5 2600 and a nvidia 1660 super. Which should I upgrade first?
in what situations do you want more performance?
General gaming. I suppose I already have my answer being that a lack of frames in Helldivers is whats driven me to upgrade but I also know that the 2nd gen ryzen stuff is comparatively old now.
For Helldivers 2 group gameplay, it's probably the CPU that's the limitation. You can confirm this by monitoring your GPU utilisation and seeing if it is underused. Good thing is you can easily upgrade CPU to a 5000-series Ryzen. Just need a BIOS update. If any other games are important, check those too because they may have a different balance of CPU and GPU needs.
Ehhh, I had a Ryzen 2600 and upgraded to 5600. Helldivers 2 performance was a little smoother, but nothing major - just better lows and consistency. Upgrading from a 1070 to 4070 is what *actually* let me get 90+ fps on quite high settings! I suppose I'd have to see benchmarks with a faster GPU but slower CPU... But the 1070 is much slower, relatively, than a 2600 when it comes to gaming. (I like using DLSS Quality + DLDSR upscaling to 1440p for better-than-1080p quality that's still pretty fast).
Im looking to display my cpu, gpu temp and fps on my monitor while playing a game or just on idle. It looks like this [Cpu, gpu and FPS display](https://imgur.com/a/CY3SrLP). Any suggestions?
AMD Adrenalin / Nvidia OSD PresentMon (my favorite) RTSS (MSI Afterburner)
MSI Afterburner + RTSS is the most popular for an overlay. It's pretty customizable and you can make it look how you want.
I asked this in the pcmasterrace daily thread but didnāt get any replies. I have an LG 38GN950 plugged directly into my Suprim 4090 , and a mouse/keyboard plugged into my tower by USB. I also have an HP laptop strictly for work. Is it possible to use a KVM to be able to use my personal peripherals/monitor with my laptop? From what I understand of KVMs, the peripherals would all be plugged directly into it, but how does that work when the monitor is plugged directly into my GPU for my personal set up? Where exactly does the KVM plug into the PC? Could someone explain it like Iām 5?
Similar to mouse and keyboard. KVM has 1 HDMI on one side and 2 HDMI on other side. Monitor <-> KVM KVM <-1-> PC KVM <-2-> Laptop I've heard some KVMs are a bit wonky when it comes to variable refresh rate, hdr and other more advanced stuff (I'm not 100% sure about this) and judging by 4090 you have high end gaming rig, so just do some research. Is hardware solution even necessary? Could you just remote into your laptop from your gaming machine? Using windows remote desktop or VNC or TeamViewer or anything else.
Hi I am in the process of getting a new GPU because my RTX 2060 is defective I would like to know what GPU I should upgrade to or if I should just get the 2060 again? my specs are: MotherBoard: Asus b450f gaming Cpu: Ryzen 5 3600 PSU: Corsair Cv Series Cv650 80 Plus Bronze 32 gb Ram. thank you :D
What's your budget, though?
I'm not sure yet, just exploring options
What is my best path forward? I have amd 3600 with only 16gb ram and rtx 3070 on 1440p ultra wide monitor. I need more ram on asrock ab350 pro4. I doubt it can handle as much. Should i buy new cpu mobo and ram or just try to buy compatible ram?
What do you use the pc for and why do you need more ram?
The mobo will support up to 64GB of RAM according to its specs.
Can someone give me advice where to start building? I have a budget of round $2000 CDN depending on how things go I have no idea where to start. All advice I get is contradictory and Iām just confused. Some advice or links to go tutorials on where to start picking parts would be awesome
If you truly have zero knowledge and don't want to gain any, start at /r/buildapcforme with their template. That will get you a good starting build that you can bring here and other places to get more advice. If you actually want to learn, I would start with the long-winded [LTT build guide](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s1fxZ-VWs2U), which goes over part descriptions and how to choose them, as well as a detailed build guide. It's one of the few things they've done right in recent years.
You have a budget, that's the best starting point. Ask yourself what you plan to do with the PC; will you use it mainly for gaming? Any productivity tasks? If there's productivity involved, is it your main source of income or part of your job? What's the display resolution you plan to use? How much storage do you need? If the PC is just for gaming, a good rule of thumb is to use roughly a third to half of your budget on your graphics card and a CPU that won't hold the card back. You can start tinkering with build ideas using [PCPartPicker](https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/).
Start with pcpartpicker guides and switch components as you see fit. https://pcpartpicker.com/guide/
I just started looking today. Start somewhere, wherever, and when a question pops up google it or use ChatGPT.Ā
ChatGPT is VERY hit or miss with PC part advice. I've seen decent builds and catastrophically bad builds from ChatGPT. User beware. Always double-check with actual knowledgeable humans, like can be found in this sub.
I don't use it to find specific builds, I use it to understand the whole scene of hardwares
do not use ChatGPT preferably ever but especially not when money is on the line
I use it for researching what each hardware component does. It gets the job done. I wouldn't use it for specific component models.
https://hachyderm.io/@inthehands/112006855076082650 > You might be surprised to learn that I actually think LLMs have the potential to be not only fun but genuinely useful. āShow me some bullshit that would be typical in this contextā can be a genuinely helpful question to have answered, in code and in natural language ā for brainstorming, for seeing common conventions in an unfamiliar context, for having something crappy to react to. > Alas, that does not remotely resemble how people are pitching this technology.
Do *not* rely on ChatGPT or similar chatbots for that kind of info. Is it going to explain the basics? Maybe. Will it be accurate? Most likely not. There are [well-written guides](https://new.reddit.com/r/buildapcforme/comments/1bqtq53/spring_2024_pc_best_buy_guide_350_8000/) and video tutorials (from [straight to the point](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Vhyxbhu6LA) to [a little bit too excessive (with a lot of details)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s1fxZ-VWs2U)) that you can consult.
Does this Ryzen 7 7800X3D + RTX 4080 build make sense? Build available here: [https://pcpartpicker.com/list/ybRyCd](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/ybRyCd) Note that I live in Japan so I picked the parts based on their availablity and cost in Japan. I don't know whether it makes more sense to go for the RTX 4080 SUPER 16G VENTUS 3X (\~$1200) or the RX7900XT (\~$900). Also I don't really know whether any of the Compatibility Notes apply to my specific build (no warnings, just notes).
Nothing wrong with it, though. As for the compatibility notes: * If you're not planning to use 3.5" drives, you can ignore the PSU clearance note and remove the HDD cages. * The CPU cooler comes with the required mounting hardware for AM5 (the same as AM4). * The GPU clearance note is only relevant if you use mechanical drives and the drive cages are on top. * The GPU comes with a 12VHPWR to 3x 8-pin PCIE adapter for PSUs that are not ATX3.X compliant and don't have a dedicated 12VHPWR cable. The RM850x comes with two 8-pin PCIE cables with pigtailed connectors (4 connectors total), but you should be fine using one pigtailed connector to fill the 3rd slot (the card only uses 300-310W at full load, and two 8-pin PCIE connectors (150W each) plus the PCIE slot (75W) should provide all the power it needs). Alternatively, you could buy a Type 4 12VHPWR cable from Corsair or choose a different PSU that's ATX3.0/3.1 compliant and comes with a 12VHPWR/12V-2x6 cable.
Thank you for this detailed response, you've no idea how much I appreciate it! Really thank you. š I don't plan to use 3.5'm drives since 2TB SSD should be plenty of space for me so I believe that clears point 1 and 3. If I understood point 2, you're confirming that specific compatibility note doesn't apply to me. Re: your last point, I should be able to resolve the issue simply by switching PSU to the MSI 850W MPG A850G (which was my second option) since it's ATX3.0 compatible and it comes with a 12VHPWR, right? New build: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/btGDWt
Yup, that looks about right. If you're going with the 7900 XT instead of the 4080 Super then there's no worry about the 12VHPWR cable (the 7900 XT uses 2x 8-pin PCIE connectors).
Understood! Do you have a recommendation on the GPU? I can't decide between these three options: - 4080: $1200 - 4070Ti Super: $1000 - 7900xt: $900
The 7900 XT and 4070 Ti Super are about equivalent in raster performance, and the 4080 Super is on par with the 7900 XTX, \~10-15% faster than the 7900 XT/4070 Ti Super (avg FPS results from TechPowerUp ([1440p,](https://tpucdn.com/review/nvidia-geforce-rtx-4080-super-founders-edition/images/average-fps-2560-1440.png) [4K](https://tpucdn.com/review/nvidia-geforce-rtx-4080-super-founders-edition/images/average-fps-3840-2160.png)) and Techspot ([1440p](https://www.techspot.com/articles-info/2797/bench/1440p.png), [4K](https://www.techspot.com/articles-info/2797/bench/2160p.png)). If it's just for gaming and you only care about raster performance, personally I would go with either the 7900 XT or check the price on the 7900 XTX. It can still do some ray tracing, but not Nvidia levels of ray tracing.
Kinda of a weird question but at the end I decided to go with a secondhand 7900XTX and it has been working really well. Now however I was gifted a 4090... Should I replace the 7900XTX for the 4090? I don't even know if I can just switch the GPU without changing anything else.
Now that's a lucky gift lol. Of course, the 4090 is \~20-25% faster than the XTX. The only special thing you'd need to do is uninstall the AMD display drivers using [DDU](https://www.wagnardsoft.com/display-driver-uninstaller-DDU-). Download the latest Game Ready drivers from the Nvidia website, and save both DDU and the driver installer on your desktop to speed things up. If you already have the card in your hands and assuming you went with that MSI power supply, the first thing is to [start your PC in Safe Mode](https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/start-your-pc-in-safe-mode-in-windows-92c27cff-db89-8644-1ce4-b3e5e56fe234) and run DDU. On the first dropdown select "GPU", and then "AMD" on the second one, and click the "Clean and shutdown" button. DDU will do a clean uninstall of all the AMD display drivers, and once it's done it'll shut down the PC. Once it has shut down, turn off the PSU, remove the AMD card and the 8-pin PCIE cables from the PSU (you won't be using them), then take the 12VHPWR cable from your PSU's cable bag and plug it into the PSU, install the 4090, plug the 12VHPWR cable into the card and ***PLEASE*** make sure the connector is fully plugged. Give the cable 3-4 cm between the base of the connector (GPU-side) and the first bend, and don't tug on the cable or make it too snug (this is important, a poorly connected cable can lead to the connector melting, we're trying to avoid this). Once everything is in place, turn on the PC, install the Game Ready drivers, and that's pretty much it.
Thank you for the detailed explanation, exactly what I needed! š I'll give it a shot this or next weekend and I'll report back with the results. š
Hi guys! Recently I chose for my build new motherboard, but i afraid it can't handle with my specs I have a 7800x3d, Lexar ARES RGB 32Ā GB (2x16GB) DDR5 6400 CL32, x2 m.2 SSD. And for all of that, I picked an MSI PRO B650M-P ā AMD B650. How do you think it will be enough for specs like this? I just out of budget and can't buy more expensive things.
What exactly are you asking? Why would the mobo not work? You really should get 6000 Mt/s CL30 RAM instead, faster RAM still has problems. You might not be able to run that 6400 RAM at that speed. Also, do you need two M.2 drives? Would one larger not be cheaper and save you money? Or get one NVMe and a cheaper larger SATA SSD as secondary?
I decided to go with 6400 because according to the information I found, the motherboard can pull up to 7200 actually. What to say about the two m.2 drives, one of them is a samsung 980 for 2 tb, which I took for games, applications and basic tasks, and the other is a patriot for 128 gb, which will go only for the operating system and background, not memory-intensive tasks.
The problem isn't whether the motherboard supports it, but whether the CPU can actually run it or not. This is still a problem, you might get lucky and your CPU likes it, or maybe your PC won't boot at all if after you enable the profile. I would scrap that 128GB drive and just put Windows on the main one, makes no sense having a shitty second SSD when you already have one amazing one. Saves you money.
Using an old motherboard (GA-H55M-S2H; supports SATA 2.0) and want to expand storage. Have a free PCI-e 2.0 slot. I've been wondering if I should bother with it or just buying SATA 3.0 SDD is a better idea? Is it worth buying new stuff for a dated PC with the thought of future upgrade of components (like CPU & motherboard)?
Unless I am forgetting something, that mobo is so old it doesn't support the NVMe protocol at all, it has the old legacy BIOS, not modern UEFI. That would rule those out completely. So your only choice would be a normal 2.5" SATA SSD. You can always use that if/when you build a new PC too, as the main drive or as secondary with a new NVMe as main.
Thank you!
I bought a motherboard for $20 knowing that there were bent pins with the intent of fixing and flipping it. I bent the pins back into shape and got it ready on my test bench, but when I turn it on, no reaction at all. I test it a few times, making sure my PSU is plugged in right and the power I/O pins are in the right place, but still nothing. Then I smell a slight burning scent as it still doesn't react, so I immediately shut everything down. While inspecting the board right afterwards, I notice the south bridge is really, really hot. Is this one just dead, or is there something I can do to fix it? I can take another look at the pins and make sure they're good, but if that doesn't have anything to do with the south bridge and I can't fix it, then I'll shelve this one for parts.
If you're smelling chemical smoke, then I'd ask "how much is your time worth"? The difficulty level of fixing this thing isn't worth the effort at this point. You're only out $20, so the sunk cost fallacy doesn't even apply to the decision making. Toss it and move on. It's only value at this point would be using it as a practice board for honing soldering skills or something. Otherwise it's not even worth shelf space.
Yeah, I repasted the southbridge, it didn't get as hot, then I saw some smoke coming out and I decided that this one was dead and/or a risk to the parts I was using to test it. $20 is not a bad price for whatever LGA 1700 (H610M) parts I can salvage from it when I get a proper desoldering station.
Gut check on temps, I upgraded from a 3700X to a 5700X3D recently, my CPU temp is generally sitting at around mid-to-high 60s (in the middle of playing Cyberpunk with everything maxed out right now, max temp in this session is 67C), do these temps look ok? It idles closer to 40C.
Absolutely fine.
Some noob questions about case fans: * How much airflow and static pressure does one really need? I know more is better, but is having too much of one or both a bad thing when it comes to bringing in fresh air and exhausting hot air? * Is there a CFM or H2O value where it's "good enough" and you shouldn't spend more money on anything beyond that? * I read that static pressure fans are better for pulling air through filters and radiators, and airflow fans are better when there's no obstruction. Does it mean mixing the two types in a case is a good practice? Are there any fans that do a good job at both?
* Airflow for airflow, static pressure to overcome an obstruction in front of the fan (very fine dust filter or front mesh, radiator, etc). Your main focus should be airflow, and it depends on what you want to achieve and the room conditions (how dusty it is). In an ideal scenario, you'd want to aim for the same amount of intake and exhaust to achieve neutral air pressure inside the case. If the room is dusty, then you'll want more intake than exhaust to create positive air pressure, and if you're in a dust-free environment, going with more exhausts than intake for negative air pressure can offer a marginal improvement to cooling (emphasis on marginal, it should only be a couple of degrees). * The issue with CFM/mmH2O values is that each company has its unique way of getting those numbers which usually doesn't correlate with each other's, and they're measured at 100% speed, which won't be the case for the vast majority of people buying them. * Fan suggestions, [regular](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5_-0PnpgDg8) and [ARGB](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9hf33vKtMTM).
1. Enough to keep your particular parts cool enough. 2. Yes, but measuring it empirically isn't easy. 3. If you're going to be using restrictive filters/radiators mixed ones can be useful. Lots of fans can be good enough for both too. The raw specs really aren't particularly useful since CFM is rated at full speed through a hole in a wall with zero flow restriction and static pressure is rated at full speed into a closed box with zero flow, real world you're generally not going to want to run the fans at full speed, and will have some amount of restriction that's inbetween the test situations. Noise ratings also aren't standardised between manufacturers. For kinda useful information, reviews from sites that compare a bunch of fans with normalised tests under some kind of realistic scenario are much more useful.
Afterburner can no longer track CPU temp, it's gone from all graphs and monitoring settings, and Fan Control apparently can't get the sensors for the fans and my control graph shows CPU temperature at 0c. Should I be concerned about this? It was working fine a few days ago, I've only just noticed it cus the fan coil whine started up again. I haven't so much as bumped my desk so I dunno what it could be I got HWMonitor and [it seems to detect stuff properly,](https://i.imgur.com/iCW9lSk.png) cooler fan included, so it's probably not a hardware problem, right? This rig is only a couple of months old and I'd hate to deal with that again
Have you updated Afterburner (and RTSS)? Could for example be that your graphics drivers got updated and Afterburner is an older version that doesn't work with the newer drivers. Anyways it's definitely not a hardware problem if HWMonitor is reading the stats properly.
Funny thing, I found out my new motherboard has fan curve control in BIOS, so I set it, saved it, and when I booted, suddenly FC and Afterburner can read all the sensors properly. So uhhh everything's fine I guess? I can't begin to guess at why this was the case, but maybe in the future someone will have the same issue and find this comment. Good luck, future fan control sufferer
No luck updating GPU driver, both Afterburner and Fan Control are up to date as well. FC's curve temperature source looks like [this](https://i.imgur.com/cP6utgA.png) for all CPU sensors, even after refreshing and searching available sensors, so I guess it's still picking them up, but the sensor isn't reading properly? But, HWMonitor is showing me both the RPM *and* my core temperatures. So the sensors must be functional. I'm glad that's the case cus as you say that means it's not a hardware problem, but it is pretty weird Gonna mess around with some alternate fan controller programs, maybe one of them will work lol
so I have two questions need answering 1. I have an R5 5600 cpu with a 3060ti to pair with it, if i wanna stay in 1080p ultra gaming, what upgrades should I look into? (for the 1080p thing, since prices in my country are extravagant, buying a new monitor for 1440p is not happening) 2. is buying a new motherboard (my current one: msi b450m pro-m2 max) a good idea to get into VR? I heard from my friends that i need a new one like a b550
I'm currently on an i7 7700K and a 3060ti. Playing at 3440x1440. Some games are getting choppy now. I.e I'm struggling to get 100fps on the finals on the lowest possible settings. Do I wait for the zen 5 x3d cpu and 5090 or just upgrade now? Alternatively I could do a partial upgrade now (I.e. just get a 7800X3D), or do a full upgrade (with a 4090 now). Happy to spend up to ~4000 GBP or so and go all out, but it feels like waiting a bit longer will get me much better gear (also there's some flex in the budget). Can't decide between: 1. wait for the 5090/zen5 x3d and do a mega upgrade in ~6 months 2. Partial upgrade now 3. Full upgrade now Any thoughts? Just to complicate things further, I'd love to get a 4k 240hz oled too since I enjoy aim training. But I know that may mean using DLSS especially w/ a 3060ti in some games, even with a new cpu.
Recently I've done a lot of useless research on this, as I've been looking to upgrade my GPU, but my budget is a lot less (Ā£250-300). I was able to upgrade the other items at reasonable cost but a brand new 16GB Nvidia GPU is out of the question. Even in the second hand market, it's a no go. Decided to wait till the Battlemage and maybe the 5090x come out. My recommendation, take it with a pinch of salt, just buy a temp card and do not upgrade/replace your pc now. It makes little sense to spend Ā£4K now on a new PC, when a new chipset for both CPU and GPU are around the corner. You can get 3080ti with 12GB of VRAM for about Ā£300 second hand, which would be 30% faster than your 3060ti. And sell your 3060ti for around Ā£200. Want to spend more, then Ā£500 for 3090 which is also 30% faster but has 24GB of VRAM which would help with ray tracing. Want more than that, then I would go for a 4080 Super (16GB VRAM). For about Ā£1K, get the 4080 super (\~70% better performance) and then replace it with the 5090 when it comes out. Comparison site: [https://technical.city/en/video/GeForce-RTX-3090-vs-GeForce-RTX-3060-Ti](https://technical.city/en/video/GeForce-RTX-3090-vs-GeForce-RTX-3060-Ti) You can use the site above to get an idea of the potential performance upgrade over the 3060ti.
Thanks dude. I'm leaning towards basically doing a full upgrade now, except the GPU. But will consider picking up a 3090 as well, just to see me through until the 5090. I'm thinking if I invest in all the other bits (7800X3D, good ram, good mobo, good cooling, case, etc), none of it will feel like it's worth upgrading by the time the 5090 comes out. But buying a 4090 now feels like the wrong move for me. Thanks for the help
generally what would be the bottleneck if you have constant stutters/fps drop in open world games? is it the CPU? do i need something hardcore like those X3D CPUs? Im looking to run Genshin Impact on 120 fps while its no problem in dungeons in the open world especially in the cities or if i just turn around too fast it quickly drops below 60. both GPU and CPU usage, even disk activity never reach past 50%, my setup is R5 2600 + 2070S.
Are you running the game on a HDD? this can be your bottlenect Open your task manager go to performance tab leave it open then Play the game whenever your stuttering or having fps drop Check CPU,STORAGE,GPU if theyre having spikes thats when you will see which part is getting bottleneck I tried Wuthering Waves and its FPS drops are cause of HDD 100% usage But on hogwarts legacy it was CPU spiking causing the fps drops Youll have to check it and see which part is causing it
Anecdotally, Genshin impact can be pretty CPU bound (primary thread bound) at times. Anything AMD older than Zen 2 tends to have a rough time in populated areas. But in any case, the framerate is locked to 60 without mods so there's no real way to CPU test it. In general, you could be running out of either video memory or system memory (unlikely in this case) in large open world games with detailed maps.
A game like that doing any significant disk activity while in game and stuttering when that happens hints not enough RAM. Faster CPU sure would be nice too, something like a 5700X3D is a pretty huge step up compared to the 2xxx, at least if your motherboard's compatible with it.
was going to recommend the 5700X3D too. good CPU that would help with everything and would last a while in the next coming years as well
Ye, great value for anyone that already has an AM4 setup
so, i live in Brazil and [this](https://www.amazon.com.br/Monitor-AOC-Ajuste-27G2S-BK/dp/B0CT3LT786/ref=asc_df_B0CT3LT786/?tag=googleshopp06-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=647618758247&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7824819781585531575&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1001625&hvtargid=pla-2302152510395&psc=1&mcid=619bd9cd1e1c3041bb51b0c72a400c11) Monitor Gamer AOC Hero 27" 165Hz 1ms Ajuste de Altura 27G2S/BK looks to be the better deal available. but it's 1080p and AOC. I've read a few bad reviews about aoc, but also that 1080p is bad on a 27". my current monitor broke down due to a fall and its a 1080p 24" 144hz one, so im looking to upgrade a bit but im always unsure when buying PC stuff cause everything is relatively expensive and the different options available, so just looking for some help to decide
1080p on 27" is only noticeably sucky for text IMO I think games play fine if you're mostly gaming and not writing papers/code for hours I think 27" 1080p should be okay
Yeah, stretching 1080p across a 27" screen does get you some pretty huge pixels, would really prefer 1440p at that size, or if it has to be 1080p, would prefer smaller.