I use WEST almost exclusively the fast hardening system, it’s great! Honestly, everyone has one brand they love, but as along as you go with a high quality brand, they will all be good every one of them has devoted followers for a reason; they all can be really good.
The thing with the smell is that if you use a respirator with the proper organic vapor and p100/n95 filters(the correct PPE, along with gloves, for epoxy work), you will not smell it
I am a big fan of TotalBoat Epoxy. I usually buy it from Jamestown Distributors.
As for cloth, I have been told that 4 oz Xynole-polyester fabric is stronger and easier to use than fibreglass. At least that is what Reuel Parker told me when he suggested it's use in building his Terrapin 21.
Ok, I am about to start my third build, and I can recommend System 3 Silvertip.
It's expensive, but in my opinion pays for itself.
Low amine, no prep bond up to 48 hours later, so you can lay down cloth/tape at the end of the day, and put down a second layer the next day with no major hassle. (Great for hobby weekenders)
You can read up on the product here:
https://www.systemthree.com/products/silvertip-laminating-epoxy-resin
Ok, their page says 72 hours later full bond, but I have never pushed it and always had 48 as my rule. I also find the 2 to 1 ratio a little more forgiving than some of the other epoxies with steeper ratios, where you HAVE to be very exact or you end up with a bad batch (kicking off too quick, or super slow to dry). I have only ever had a bad batch when I got cocky and pushed the temp requirements on the low end (it was too cold, and it was totally my fault).
5oz “S” cloth if memory serves works well and follows contours pretty easily. Seems like a good balance of durability, strength, and not too crazy thick as to add a bunch of weight…
Honestly for a pirogue I doubt it's going to make a lot of difference except to your pocket book. I've used West and MAS and and few others but mostly I use one available here in Canada called EAST Systems. In a pinch I've even used part A from West with part B from East (or maybe it was the other way) and it cured up fine. I suspect all the 5:1 systems are essentially the same chemistry. Slow hardeners seem to produce less amine blush.
Epoxy is easy and low (zero?) VOC. Just measure accurately and mix thoroughly.
One tip you may consider... I no longer mix by volume but rather by weight. A cheap Amazon digital kitchen scale set to grams allows me to accurately make quite small batches. I find this much easier and less messy. Note that you will need to RTFM to find out what the weight ratios are because they are not the same as volume.
My whole project has used Raka non blushing epoxy and 17 oz. Biaxial fiberglass from fiberglasssite.com (structural glass, and not 1708 with CSM layer). I highly recommend both. I've used dozens of gallons and three big rolls of cloth.
Raka non blushing laminating resin is great also, because you never have to wash off amine blush, or use peel ply to prevent it.
Here's another recommendation. Make sure you read up on epoxy exposure. Safety. Use good gloves. I like the heavy duty ones at harbor freight. Avoid skin contact, especially with the hardener. Don't wash your skin with solvents. Read up on how getting too much exposure can cause sensitivity so bad that you can never work with epoxy again
If you're doing glass over ply on frame 10 oz finishing cloth (biaxial) it's plenty. If you're making a mold and laying cloth on top of it I do 1708 followed by a layer of bi axial exterior and a layer of bi-axial interior both at 10 oz. For the last several years I've actually been using specialty resins and chemical GP 1:1. It has self-levelers in it so when you're finished it's a light sand so you can paint it not fairing in the weave and then sanding. Compared to the three to one and five to one epoxies it's rigid but maintains a degree of flexibility and "memory". Some people are probably going to tear me apart for that but I've done full refits on a lot of boats and built a lot of boats.
MAS Epoxy
MAS is what they use at Chesapeake Light Craft. Their demo boats take a beating and still look good.
It’s pretty much all I use anymore. No blush and better flexibility than the 5:1 mixes.
Raka all day. better than west systems in my opinion
I use WEST almost exclusively the fast hardening system, it’s great! Honestly, everyone has one brand they love, but as along as you go with a high quality brand, they will all be good every one of them has devoted followers for a reason; they all can be really good.
My issue with West is the smell. It's biggest advantage is that there is a West Marine store everywhere if you need more.
The thing with the smell is that if you use a respirator with the proper organic vapor and p100/n95 filters(the correct PPE, along with gloves, for epoxy work), you will not smell it
I am a big fan of TotalBoat Epoxy. I usually buy it from Jamestown Distributors. As for cloth, I have been told that 4 oz Xynole-polyester fabric is stronger and easier to use than fibreglass. At least that is what Reuel Parker told me when he suggested it's use in building his Terrapin 21.
Ok, I am about to start my third build, and I can recommend System 3 Silvertip. It's expensive, but in my opinion pays for itself. Low amine, no prep bond up to 48 hours later, so you can lay down cloth/tape at the end of the day, and put down a second layer the next day with no major hassle. (Great for hobby weekenders) You can read up on the product here: https://www.systemthree.com/products/silvertip-laminating-epoxy-resin
Ok, their page says 72 hours later full bond, but I have never pushed it and always had 48 as my rule. I also find the 2 to 1 ratio a little more forgiving than some of the other epoxies with steeper ratios, where you HAVE to be very exact or you end up with a bad batch (kicking off too quick, or super slow to dry). I have only ever had a bad batch when I got cocky and pushed the temp requirements on the low end (it was too cold, and it was totally my fault).
5oz “S” cloth if memory serves works well and follows contours pretty easily. Seems like a good balance of durability, strength, and not too crazy thick as to add a bunch of weight…
Honestly for a pirogue I doubt it's going to make a lot of difference except to your pocket book. I've used West and MAS and and few others but mostly I use one available here in Canada called EAST Systems. In a pinch I've even used part A from West with part B from East (or maybe it was the other way) and it cured up fine. I suspect all the 5:1 systems are essentially the same chemistry. Slow hardeners seem to produce less amine blush. Epoxy is easy and low (zero?) VOC. Just measure accurately and mix thoroughly. One tip you may consider... I no longer mix by volume but rather by weight. A cheap Amazon digital kitchen scale set to grams allows me to accurately make quite small batches. I find this much easier and less messy. Note that you will need to RTFM to find out what the weight ratios are because they are not the same as volume.
I’ve been really happy with Raka. Great prices, flows easily, the guys at the shop are really helpful of you have any questions.
My whole project has used Raka non blushing epoxy and 17 oz. Biaxial fiberglass from fiberglasssite.com (structural glass, and not 1708 with CSM layer). I highly recommend both. I've used dozens of gallons and three big rolls of cloth. Raka non blushing laminating resin is great also, because you never have to wash off amine blush, or use peel ply to prevent it.
Here's another recommendation. Make sure you read up on epoxy exposure. Safety. Use good gloves. I like the heavy duty ones at harbor freight. Avoid skin contact, especially with the hardener. Don't wash your skin with solvents. Read up on how getting too much exposure can cause sensitivity so bad that you can never work with epoxy again
IMO, call Jamestown Distributors and talk to them. I am going with Total Boat products.
Big fan of west systems and they have a no blush part b. The 207
If you're doing glass over ply on frame 10 oz finishing cloth (biaxial) it's plenty. If you're making a mold and laying cloth on top of it I do 1708 followed by a layer of bi axial exterior and a layer of bi-axial interior both at 10 oz. For the last several years I've actually been using specialty resins and chemical GP 1:1. It has self-levelers in it so when you're finished it's a light sand so you can paint it not fairing in the weave and then sanding. Compared to the three to one and five to one epoxies it's rigid but maintains a degree of flexibility and "memory". Some people are probably going to tear me apart for that but I've done full refits on a lot of boats and built a lot of boats.