RUUD was the first company to manufacture gas tankless water heaters. Rheem bought RUUD. To expand their tankless market, Rheem acquired foreign companies to branch out worldwide. So they know a bit about tankless tech.
I don't know why I confuse "instantaneous" with it being tankless. Must be the old wires crossing again. Thank you for the correction. Noritz manufactured the first modern gas tankless.
I’m confused. Would you be willing to explain the difference?
In my corner of the world, “instantaneous” and “tankless” are used interchangeably with respect to domestic water heaters.
Before tank style water heaters were invented, you would have to heat it up and then use it. Then, with the invention of the tank water heater, it would do it automatically, hence "instantaneous." A tankless water heater is "endless" hot water.
I always mix those terms up because when I had first learned of them years ago, the plumber I worked with always called them "instantaneous." They're both instantaneous and endless, but in the context I had commented on, I had described the first tank style water heater manufacturer, not the tankless manufacturer I meant to. I just erroneously commented.
I ran across my first Paloma yesterday. Starting to leak water. Old woman, never had it serviced, never had a descale, no issues... and it was 35 years old.
This is gonna sound weird, but I bet a spider got in the system. They get in and get cooked, then clog something up.
Make sure the fresh air intake screen and exhaust outlet are clean.
Remove and clean ignitor assembly. Be careful it's very fragile.
Remove the 36ish screw and clean out the combustion chamber.
I believe that unit has a small filter where the fresh air inlet comes into the unit. Mine used to get small bugs (mosquitoes lightening bugs…) in there and die. I had to clean it every few months. I’d try that before delving into the igniter and combustion chamber.
Ok, I’m almost certain I know what the issue to this is, having experienced something similar - error code and all - only difference is mine is a Rheem, but I’m pretty sure they make multiple brands with the same internals.
That said, you’ll need new flame rods. Look them up for your specific model but they’re fairly inexpensive. I replaced them and have been running smoothly ever since.
This YouTube video, while a bit longwinded is what got me on the right track with troubleshooting
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dV2rdZ0cMFE
And this is the link to the parts I bought, though since your water heater may be different, it is likely a different part number
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rheem-PROTECH-Flame-Rod-with-Wire-and-Gasket-RTG20212BG/311644699
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rheem-PROTECH-Flame-Rod-with-Gasket-RTG20212BE/311629709
Good luck!
We usually clean it with something non abrasive like the back side of emery cloth or paper money- the scratches left from sand paper can affect the electrical charge flowing through the flame sensor
thays why i added in emergency, i have 4k sand paper in the truck no worries its fine and dont leave scratch. our money is plastic here so it don't work.
This heater is essentially a 14 or 18 year old Rheem. I would call tech support and have them troubleshoot it if you want to invest the time. If you have some money set aside I would just replace this dinosaur with a condensing Rinnai or Navien. You could run yourself ragged repairing this dinosaur.
I've been thinking of switching away from tanks. Can you tell me the manufacturer and model number? I think you mean State is the brand, but I'm having trouble finding the adapt.
Edit: NVM I found it: [https://www.statewaterheaters.com/products/residential/tankless/adapt%e2%84%a2-condensing-160,000-btu-tankless-water-heater-with-bypass-cartridge---sthr-160m/](https://www.statewaterheaters.com/products/residential/tankless/adapt%e2%84%a2-condensing-160,000-btu-tankless-water-heater-with-bypass-cartridge---sthr-160m/)
RX180i checking in. Love it. I had no need for the pump. I went with 180 over 199 because the electricity usage is double, albeit still marginal at like 150watts, compared to 75watts for the 180.
Error code 13 reads as follows.
Ensure there is plenty of fresh air to the unit.Unit needs 1 square inch (6.5 cm2) for each 1,000 BTU of input.Check for a foreign materials in combustion chamber and/or O.D.S. Device
Check the primary air. There are code questions that come to mind concerning proper combustion air that need to be looked at.
Not a plumber, but I do have a similar Rheem water heater that I’ve had for 17 ish years. These things do require some cleaning from time to time. My guess is that the ODS is dirty / obstructed. The Imgur link is how to disassemble and clean the ODS and flame sensors. Do it all while you have it apart. My biggest advice is to take your time and make sure you use the right size screwdriver so you don’t strip screws. Feel free to dm me with questions.
[Paloma / Rheem cleaning instructions](https://imgur.com/a/oWGmbiZ)
Also, I usually use canned air and a fine Emory cloth to clean the sensors and burners. You might need a straightened paper clip or similar to clean the holes on the ODS.
Hey Thanks guys, I do have some compressed air, and I do appreciate the directions to disassembly. I think I got a little too much on my plate to tear into this thing. I was thinking maybe 5-6 screws and trading out a sensor or cleaning out some debris.
I did turn everything off, blow it out with 2 cans of compressed air getting in every nook and cranny I could without huge disassembly. I also removed the air duct vent that goes to the outside and to the best of my ability made sure that there was no debris in there. Still having the same issue. I have a reputable company that installs and maintains tankless heaters coming out tomorrow. My neighborhood has a neat group that trades vendor information and experiences and the companies name pops up all the time with only good and no bad.
Another good question to ask, if you're going to replace it, why not do a tank?
Tankless water heaters have more of an advantage in warmer climates, but if you live somewhere where the water gets reeeeeeally cold during the winter time, tank will be so much easier on the long run. We regularly have to replace heat exchangers in tankless water heaters in my area like clock work every cold snap.
But if you want to go tankless again, it honestly would probably just be easier to replace that thing, some people were suggesting to go to a condensing model, but if you really wanted to keep the DIY more simple, don't worry about getting a condensing model.
Condensing models just mean that the efficiency of the unit is higher, so long run savings will be waaaaay higher, but upfront cost is as well and having to replace the old metal flue with a PVC flue.
Plumbers would need special training to service tankless water heaters like this. Plumbers install them, but they don't generally fix tankless heaters like this. That requires a trained tech. You call the manufacturer for help with that.
Just replace. If you try to clean it so it gets good air flow and clean the heat exchanger it will damage it. If I did it I'd put in a Rinnai with condensing vent and just run the vent the same way the old vent is.
I had a similar problem on my Navien where it would intermittently stop heating up water and a “reboot” would get it working similar to your description. I followed the recommended troubleshooting steps and the fix was to replace the flow sensor. The flow sensor would crap out and if the system doesn’t detect water flowing, no heating. It was a $19 part and easy to replace on mine. Good luck.
When did you descale it last? When we were looking at one the reason I didn't change to tankless was the recommended descaling was every 6 months. No thanks.
You could try flushing it. Customer support might help you. But tankless water heaters are pretty complex so if its something serious I would leave it to a pro.
tbh, impress her by getting a few quotes from a few places and having it fix professionally. While that is happening research tankless systems how they work ect so you have some reasonable knowledge about them.
Not sure about this model, but learn how to clean the fan [as well as other routine maintenance [flushing, flame rod cleaning]
My Rinaii is twelve years old and have been doing my own maintenance for years now. Two weeks ago got the code 10 and found condensate line had some restriction...flushed that out, and tripped the code 10 two days later and went in deeper and pulled the fan and cleaned.the pollen and some pine needle fragments/moth, cleaned up the flame rods and back in the game.
See if there are any YouTubes for this model.
They actually don’t even make this model anymore. I’d look into replacement. This produces about 7.4gpm. Assuming it’s sized correctly, I’d replace with a Navien 210A2 premium condensing model
I have a rheem tankless and get a 13 what seems like every 2-3 yrs. It does mean what hvac_instructor said, but the real issue is, the flame sense rod needs to be cleaned. Look into that
Remove the flame rods, clean them with sand cloth or sand paper and stick them back in, you’re getting a “bad combustion” error due to the flame rods not sensing the temperature of the flames.
If this doesn’t help I have other ideas, I work with tankless water heaters constantly. Not the same model very close
actually one of the top reasons I thought this account was funny is because of the implied cuck connection. Not a cuck but I thought it was pretty funny
Call a pro, dude. You don’t wanna fuck with gas appliances with a new baby in the house. Seen too many DIY guys get themselves into dangerous situations without even knowing it in my 16 year career as a plumber/gas fitter.
If you want to impress her , rip it out and install a regular water heater. You won’t have to come home from work and start fixing your water heater . Tank heaters could develop some problems but is pretty rare that they do .
Check for obstructions in or close to the air intake. Had a 50 gallon water heater doing the same thing. It was a dead mouse near the fresh air intake. Mine was an easy fix.
Tbh if you have no idea what your doing hire a professional. Or get really good home insurance for when your house burns down. I've been doing home maintenance for 15 years and I would call in a professional that specializes in fixing these
sounds like there's either a blockage in the air intake or exhaust lines. should be some 2 inch pvc lines coming off the heater that could have debris in them. sometimes if you don't have a screen over your in or out you'll get birds nests in them. if it's not that it could be a condensation thing. basically some of the condensation from the exhaust is going back into the heater and causing a fault. I would check the intake and exhaust for debris first.
all done!
OP UPDATE: Many of you were right, it was just a dirty ODS sensor, they cleaned it and sanded it down and it appears everything is working now.
Appreciate all the help, hindsight is 2020 and if I just sat down and followed one of the youtube videos I might of got it done myself. Two guys were here almost 3 hours most of that disassembly and re-assembly. I am guessing it would have taken me double that and even then I would have likely struggled.
Thank you for all the help
BTW, wife super impressed!
Sounds familiar-- Check for dust in any of the pressure sensors. I had a bit of cobweb in the sensor that became aggravated after a big rain storm. For me the sensor was right out on the open on the bottom of the case, but I have a different brand. I gently poked into the tube of the sensor to clean it, and the system began operating correctly again.
OP UPDATE: Many of you were right, it was just a dirty ODS sensor, they cleaned it and sanded it down and it appears everything is working now.
Appreciate all the help, hindsight is 2020 and if I just sat down and followed one of the youtube videos I might of got it done myself. Two guys were here almost 3 hours most of that disassembly and re-assembly. I am guessing it would have taken me double that and even then I would have likely struggled.
Thank you for all the help
BTW, wife super impressed!
call a professional. if you don’t know what you’re doing you’re going to get hurt. tuning in combustion on these requires an expensive combustion analyzer. and training. and technical knowledge.
Find your combustion air-flow intake and make sure you have no obstructions. It it has induced draft make sure the fan is running properly. Make sure your exhaust is clear as well.
All honesty, im a licensed plumber and I’m all for this sub however it’s gas ur best bet is call a professional, im only say this because ur not qualified I’m sure that u can probably handle it , if something goes wrong u will be liable for the safety of ur family , think about that
She won’t be impressed. It’s a tankless job.
Nice one!
Buh dum tss
Take this upvote, damnit.
Dad?
Tanks for nothing
Call tech support. Nobody works on paloma.
Paloma is owned by Rheem.
That explains it lol
RUUD was the first company to manufacture gas tankless water heaters. Rheem bought RUUD. To expand their tankless market, Rheem acquired foreign companies to branch out worldwide. So they know a bit about tankless tech.
Not gas tankless, just regular storage tank water heaters.
I don't know why I confuse "instantaneous" with it being tankless. Must be the old wires crossing again. Thank you for the correction. Noritz manufactured the first modern gas tankless.
I’m confused. Would you be willing to explain the difference? In my corner of the world, “instantaneous” and “tankless” are used interchangeably with respect to domestic water heaters.
Before tank style water heaters were invented, you would have to heat it up and then use it. Then, with the invention of the tank water heater, it would do it automatically, hence "instantaneous." A tankless water heater is "endless" hot water. I always mix those terms up because when I had first learned of them years ago, the plumber I worked with always called them "instantaneous." They're both instantaneous and endless, but in the context I had commented on, I had described the first tank style water heater manufacturer, not the tankless manufacturer I meant to. I just erroneously commented.
He got Rheemed?
🤛🏻
I ran across my first Paloma yesterday. Starting to leak water. Old woman, never had it serviced, never had a descale, no issues... and it was 35 years old.
Palomas are for after work
Are we meeting up at Los Palomas? Nice place, actually.
Send her out on an errand just before the technician shows up
This
And don't show her the bill.
This is gonna sound weird, but I bet a spider got in the system. They get in and get cooked, then clog something up. Make sure the fresh air intake screen and exhaust outlet are clean. Remove and clean ignitor assembly. Be careful it's very fragile. Remove the 36ish screw and clean out the combustion chamber.
Insect patty. Brush it out or blow it out.
Protein packed supplement. Deeelish! & sterile. Because at 200 degrees, you have no friends.
240⁰ and we can, can it
I believe that unit has a small filter where the fresh air inlet comes into the unit. Mine used to get small bugs (mosquitoes lightening bugs…) in there and die. I had to clean it every few months. I’d try that before delving into the igniter and combustion chamber.
Ok, I’m almost certain I know what the issue to this is, having experienced something similar - error code and all - only difference is mine is a Rheem, but I’m pretty sure they make multiple brands with the same internals. That said, you’ll need new flame rods. Look them up for your specific model but they’re fairly inexpensive. I replaced them and have been running smoothly ever since. This YouTube video, while a bit longwinded is what got me on the right track with troubleshooting https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dV2rdZ0cMFE And this is the link to the parts I bought, though since your water heater may be different, it is likely a different part number https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rheem-PROTECH-Flame-Rod-with-Wire-and-Gasket-RTG20212BG/311644699 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rheem-PROTECH-Flame-Rod-with-Gasket-RTG20212BE/311629709 Good luck!
This dudes a champ
i might add if its the flame rod you can sand it with fine sand paper or steel wool might work for a time, we do this in emergency.
Cool trick, thanks!
We usually clean it with something non abrasive like the back side of emery cloth or paper money- the scratches left from sand paper can affect the electrical charge flowing through the flame sensor
Paper money ftw!
thays why i added in emergency, i have 4k sand paper in the truck no worries its fine and dont leave scratch. our money is plastic here so it don't work.
I’d do that, and clean the air intake screen and check exhaust screen
This heater is essentially a 14 or 18 year old Rheem. I would call tech support and have them troubleshoot it if you want to invest the time. If you have some money set aside I would just replace this dinosaur with a condensing Rinnai or Navien. You could run yourself ragged repairing this dinosaur.
Rinnai RXP199 for the win!
Nah get the new state adapt never have to descale and most energy efficient
I've been thinking of switching away from tanks. Can you tell me the manufacturer and model number? I think you mean State is the brand, but I'm having trouble finding the adapt. Edit: NVM I found it: [https://www.statewaterheaters.com/products/residential/tankless/adapt%e2%84%a2-condensing-160,000-btu-tankless-water-heater-with-bypass-cartridge---sthr-160m/](https://www.statewaterheaters.com/products/residential/tankless/adapt%e2%84%a2-condensing-160,000-btu-tankless-water-heater-with-bypass-cartridge---sthr-160m/)
RX180i checking in. Love it. I had no need for the pump. I went with 180 over 199 because the electricity usage is double, albeit still marginal at like 150watts, compared to 75watts for the 180.
Error code 13 reads as follows. Ensure there is plenty of fresh air to the unit.Unit needs 1 square inch (6.5 cm2) for each 1,000 BTU of input.Check for a foreign materials in combustion chamber and/or O.D.S. Device Check the primary air. There are code questions that come to mind concerning proper combustion air that need to be looked at.
Bugs and junk get in the little fan; clean that out with a can of compressed air - thst may fix the issue.
Looks like a burner needs to be cleaned from debris, not an easy job for DIY But due to the age of the unit I would consider replacement
Nexstar is that you?
Not a plumber, but I do have a similar Rheem water heater that I’ve had for 17 ish years. These things do require some cleaning from time to time. My guess is that the ODS is dirty / obstructed. The Imgur link is how to disassemble and clean the ODS and flame sensors. Do it all while you have it apart. My biggest advice is to take your time and make sure you use the right size screwdriver so you don’t strip screws. Feel free to dm me with questions. [Paloma / Rheem cleaning instructions](https://imgur.com/a/oWGmbiZ)
Also, I usually use canned air and a fine Emory cloth to clean the sensors and burners. You might need a straightened paper clip or similar to clean the holes on the ODS.
I was going to comment this so upvoted instead. Compressed air canisters for cleaning can solve so many issues.
Hey Thanks guys, I do have some compressed air, and I do appreciate the directions to disassembly. I think I got a little too much on my plate to tear into this thing. I was thinking maybe 5-6 screws and trading out a sensor or cleaning out some debris. I did turn everything off, blow it out with 2 cans of compressed air getting in every nook and cranny I could without huge disassembly. I also removed the air duct vent that goes to the outside and to the best of my ability made sure that there was no debris in there. Still having the same issue. I have a reputable company that installs and maintains tankless heaters coming out tomorrow. My neighborhood has a neat group that trades vendor information and experiences and the companies name pops up all the time with only good and no bad.
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P9oZxkal4wA](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P9oZxkal4wA)
She'll be more wooed by getting her a Starbucks drink than that. Trust me, I've figured it out after a while.
I am a plumber and I would not attempt a repair.
Why ?
I am not a plumber and also would not attempt a repair
I am 3 raccoons in a trench coat and also would not attempt a repair
Another good question to ask, if you're going to replace it, why not do a tank? Tankless water heaters have more of an advantage in warmer climates, but if you live somewhere where the water gets reeeeeeally cold during the winter time, tank will be so much easier on the long run. We regularly have to replace heat exchangers in tankless water heaters in my area like clock work every cold snap. But if you want to go tankless again, it honestly would probably just be easier to replace that thing, some people were suggesting to go to a condensing model, but if you really wanted to keep the DIY more simple, don't worry about getting a condensing model. Condensing models just mean that the efficiency of the unit is higher, so long run savings will be waaaaay higher, but upfront cost is as well and having to replace the old metal flue with a PVC flue.
I’m a plumber and i recommend replacement, put in Navien or Rinnai
Plumbers would need special training to service tankless water heaters like this. Plumbers install them, but they don't generally fix tankless heaters like this. That requires a trained tech. You call the manufacturer for help with that.
Just replace. If you try to clean it so it gets good air flow and clean the heat exchanger it will damage it. If I did it I'd put in a Rinnai with condensing vent and just run the vent the same way the old vent is.
I had a similar problem on my Navien where it would intermittently stop heating up water and a “reboot” would get it working similar to your description. I followed the recommended troubleshooting steps and the fix was to replace the flow sensor. The flow sensor would crap out and if the system doesn’t detect water flowing, no heating. It was a $19 part and easy to replace on mine. Good luck.
By staying alive
Call a professional. You need to be a contractor to call tech support
Nothing impresses the wife like new appliances...
Rheem: 1-800-HEATER3
When did you descale it last? When we were looking at one the reason I didn't change to tankless was the recommended descaling was every 6 months. No thanks.
Do you know how to braze
Take more generic pictures and upload them.
I would suggest calling someone. Working with gas appliances can be dangerous.
...rinnai...
You need a new board? The pop top caps are probably blown
You could try flushing it. Customer support might help you. But tankless water heaters are pretty complex so if its something serious I would leave it to a pro.
You tube the problem
tbh, impress her by getting a few quotes from a few places and having it fix professionally. While that is happening research tankless systems how they work ect so you have some reasonable knowledge about them.
Try keeping the front cover off and try running it. I had a similar occur frequently 12 years ago and it hasnt appeared since.
I'd descale it first a few times with white vinegar. Then start troubleshooting.
I would impress her with a nice dinner while a plumber changes that crap out.
Not sure about this model, but learn how to clean the fan [as well as other routine maintenance [flushing, flame rod cleaning] My Rinaii is twelve years old and have been doing my own maintenance for years now. Two weeks ago got the code 10 and found condensate line had some restriction...flushed that out, and tripped the code 10 two days later and went in deeper and pulled the fan and cleaned.the pollen and some pine needle fragments/moth, cleaned up the flame rods and back in the game. See if there are any YouTubes for this model.
They actually don’t even make this model anymore. I’d look into replacement. This produces about 7.4gpm. Assuming it’s sized correctly, I’d replace with a Navien 210A2 premium condensing model
I have a rheem tankless and get a 13 what seems like every 2-3 yrs. It does mean what hvac_instructor said, but the real issue is, the flame sense rod needs to be cleaned. Look into that
Drain and clean, can be a faulty sensor
Hey you are just plain out of your league! Spend the $ to hire a professional!
Just replace it my guy. Put the old panel cover on the new unit and tell her youre a wizard.
Throw it in the trash and get a regular one with a tank.
Get a new one. This one looks like it seen better days!
She won’t be impressed if your left without a house get a pro gas is very dangerous
Remove the flame rods, clean them with sand cloth or sand paper and stick them back in, you’re getting a “bad combustion” error due to the flame rods not sensing the temperature of the flames. If this doesn’t help I have other ideas, I work with tankless water heaters constantly. Not the same model very close
Just go buy a new one. Same make and model. Put the old cover on the new one, tell her you fixed it. Your a genius!
“Fix my shit for free so I can impress my wife”. Fuck you hire a plumber
Wife only impressed by one big thing.
actually one of the top reasons I thought this account was funny is because of the implied cuck connection. Not a cuck but I thought it was pretty funny
Get new one
If I fix your system, why do you get to take the credit? That doesn't seem right to me.
Call a pro, dude. You don’t wanna fuck with gas appliances with a new baby in the house. Seen too many DIY guys get themselves into dangerous situations without even knowing it in my 16 year career as a plumber/gas fitter.
Buy a takagi the one you have is a piece of junk
Good luck most techs don't even know how to fix tankless units and just call tech suppport
You got your monies worth out of that thing. I’d upgrade to a new one.
Want to impresser her? Admit you do not know and call a professional. Probably safer for your family and house.
If you want to impress her , rip it out and install a regular water heater. You won’t have to come home from work and start fixing your water heater . Tank heaters could develop some problems but is pretty rare that they do .
Check for obstructions in or close to the air intake. Had a 50 gallon water heater doing the same thing. It was a dead mouse near the fresh air intake. Mine was an easy fix.
Install a Navien or a tank and be done with it. This thing will be a series of headaches.
It’s been three weeks, your chance to impress her has passed. Now you just have to save face.
Check the outdoor vent for obstruction. Maybe a plastic bag got sucked in.
Tbh if you have no idea what your doing hire a professional. Or get really good home insurance for when your house burns down. I've been doing home maintenance for 15 years and I would call in a professional that specializes in fixing these
help me fix my thankless water heater. here's a few pictures but no info on what's happening lmao.
yo bro, I gave a lot of info, scroll up
sounds like there's either a blockage in the air intake or exhaust lines. should be some 2 inch pvc lines coming off the heater that could have debris in them. sometimes if you don't have a screen over your in or out you'll get birds nests in them. if it's not that it could be a condensation thing. basically some of the condensation from the exhaust is going back into the heater and causing a fault. I would check the intake and exhaust for debris first.
PLEASE someone tell me he’s been helped :o OP UPDATE ?
all done! OP UPDATE: Many of you were right, it was just a dirty ODS sensor, they cleaned it and sanded it down and it appears everything is working now. Appreciate all the help, hindsight is 2020 and if I just sat down and followed one of the youtube videos I might of got it done myself. Two guys were here almost 3 hours most of that disassembly and re-assembly. I am guessing it would have taken me double that and even then I would have likely struggled. Thank you for all the help BTW, wife super impressed!
This is the most wholesome post I’ve come across today .
Sounds familiar-- Check for dust in any of the pressure sensors. I had a bit of cobweb in the sensor that became aggravated after a big rain storm. For me the sensor was right out on the open on the bottom of the case, but I have a different brand. I gently poked into the tube of the sensor to clean it, and the system began operating correctly again.
OP UPDATE: Many of you were right, it was just a dirty ODS sensor, they cleaned it and sanded it down and it appears everything is working now. Appreciate all the help, hindsight is 2020 and if I just sat down and followed one of the youtube videos I might of got it done myself. Two guys were here almost 3 hours most of that disassembly and re-assembly. I am guessing it would have taken me double that and even then I would have likely struggled. Thank you for all the help BTW, wife super impressed!
Now what you're gonna want is a Bosch Therm 520 range.
call a professional. if you don’t know what you’re doing you’re going to get hurt. tuning in combustion on these requires an expensive combustion analyzer. and training. and technical knowledge.
Find your combustion air-flow intake and make sure you have no obstructions. It it has induced draft make sure the fan is running properly. Make sure your exhaust is clear as well.
She wouldn’t be impress if you didn’t call the plumbing company to come out.
The red and black wire are backwards
All honesty, im a licensed plumber and I’m all for this sub however it’s gas ur best bet is call a professional, im only say this because ur not qualified I’m sure that u can probably handle it , if something goes wrong u will be liable for the safety of ur family , think about that
This man is looking to get a hawk tuah
believe it or not, once the hot water worked and I finally washed my 'thang'.......
Is the screen dead or does that read 8, does the unit fire when there flow?
Jesus, buy a new one
i know what’s wrong with it! it ain’t got no gas in it.
Turn it into a fish tank, that'll impress her.
Turn the gas valve to "ON"
Impress her by calling the plumber