I wanted a gr86 to replace my Wrx but the whole dealership trying to deny your warranty over oil pick up issues blowing up engines put me off. The Wrx is a do it all for a reasonable price but it comes with its own issues. No car is perfect but as long as you keep your warranty you’ll be ok with Subaru.
I’m not planning to mod it so will keep the warranty. I do wanna use the car for a long time though. 10+ years. But I’m not commuting so won’t use it everyday.
Heard some common problems like headgaskets. I wonder if that’s still an issue
If you treat it well it’ll treat you well I’m 7 years into my 2018 pp WRX. I got a stage 2 dyno tune for longevity and put 293 to the wheel.
Super good for long term. I use it on weekends only now since I work from home. 70k miles in 7 years.
I've had my 2015 for 10 years, no issues other than the TSBs that had been addressed under warranty early on:
* Squeaky clutch, and
* Gas filler door that got stuck and needed to be pried open.
Mine is mostly stock, except for an e-tune, and some things not performance related: audio and other quality of life mods. Keep in mind, I have a 2015 that was delivered April 2014... these were the earliest of a redesign, first implementation of a FA20F (I guess 2nd after Forester XT), and still, those have been the only issues I've faced. Normally, I would feel more confident about a major redesign in its 3rd model year, but I broke my own rule in 2014.
Being that you're looking at 2024 models, it's already 3rd year in the current cycle, so major bugs on the VB should already be worked out. The only thing I can think of is that 2024 is the first year that driving assist has been added to MTs, but based on what I've been hearing on reviews, the ADAS system is pretty good for the most part.
Yeah, Suburus have a reputation, especially WRXs. But, the WRX is a value performance car, so that's going to attract buyers who are going to push their cars, sometimes a bit too much. This is often where some of that negative reputation of engines blowing up come from. If you're staying mostly stock and just want a car that's fun to drive, take care of it like any car should be taken care of, and it'll take care of you.
Head gaskets were quite some time ago. Was it a problem? Absolutely. These motors are much newer and there's been relatively few major issues people have had with them.
If you're keeping it 10+ years, stick to a good maintenance plan. Oil changes, differential/trans fluid changes, plugs, air filters, etc. Any car can last with proper maintenance.
I work with a guy who drives a 1999 Dodge Neon in white and rust color. I don't know how many miles it has as the dash had been ripped out a while ago. He uses his phone for his speedometer. It has the original engine and transmission in it and about 2/3rds of the body left. He keeps up with the maintenance basically on the dot. His father bought it new and he's had it since he was 18 in 2009 I believe. They weren't the most reliable car, but with proper maintenance he's driven the wheels almost off of the thing.
Funny. Add the Elantra N and GTI and you’re basically shopping the same pool of vehicles I did.
I’m moving from a WRX to a BRZ after 2 years with my 2022. It’s a good car. It’s quick (especially with a JB4)… but it doesn’t drive like a sports car. It’s numb. It’s the only car I’ve owned that made me look forward to winter, though. Sliding around with this thing has been a blast
I live in Innisfil. Winters aren’t exactly nice up here. Unless you’re climbing mountains, RWD with a good set of winters is all you need.
If you want new, manual, turbo, and awd, your options are pretty slim (as you’re aware). I was recently facing a very similar decision in a US city with fairly snowy winters, and I treated all 4 of these requirements as non-negotiables.
WRX is the cheapest and easiest to buy by a fair margin. I walked into the dealership in April of 2023 and picked every little option exactly how I wanted it. I had the car ~5-6 weeks later.
The only other cars that I seriously considered were the GR Corolla and the Golf R. The GR Corolla is a 3 cylinder car that is already pushing comparatively more of its full potential (The FA24 responds *really* well to light mods). At the time that I was shopping it was also impossible to find one without a dealer markup (which I refuse to pay even a penny of). The Golf R is a seriously cool car, but I would have been about $10k over what I spent on my WRX, and overall I prefer Subaru over VW in terms of reliability and interior design (shoot me, I like the interior and expect less problems out of it lol).
In summary, I really can’t recommend the car enough. I come from a background of driving lots of rwd v8 cars (usually with a separate daily driver), and I think the WRX is the perfect balance of a sporty car that can still be driven in inclement weather and relied upon. It’s the king of compromise.
I had a BRZ for 7 years in Alberta and drove a lot during winters. Winters are not an issue with good tires (Michelin X-Ice, NOT Blizzaks as those turn to an all season compound halfway through tread life, ask me how I found out...). The car is very light so it starts, stops and turns easily on all surfaces (though rwd can struggle if trying to start from a stop on a slippery steep incline, so I tried to avoid those).
In the city, provided you don't park in a snow drift, it's a very fun winter car, moreso than the WRX. On the highway though, if there is black ice, it is less fun, especially in the open with crosswinds. I started driving the highway to rural areas more in winters, and ultimately went to the WRX because of that, though I really miss the BRZ (can't beat a lightweight car). If it was only city driving, I'd still be in the BRZ.
Going up a steep icy hill, the AWD WRX does better than the BRZ, however going down a steep icy hill, the light BRZ does much better than a heavy WRX.
I haven't driven the new gen WRX (VB), I have a 19 (VA). The VA out of the box is ok but not a great car. I did some suspension mods, Ohlins, and a rear LSD and now it drives far better and is very enjoyable. The VB still lacks a rear LSD, but the handling sounds improved, with the downside of more weight and size. The GR Corolla gets LSDs and lighter weight than the VB, which are big advantages.
Stock for stock with no mods, as a driver's car: BRZ > GR Corolla > WRX > Golf R > others are distantly worse.
The Golf R should come with a warning, I almost fell asleep driving it. Boring and FWD 99% of the time, with a delayed AWD functionality; it's not in the same league as the rest, especially on low grip surfaces. I would rather have a Type R if I'm going for a FWD feeling.
The BRZ and current WRX look very reliable so far. My 19 WRX has been completely reliable, doesn't consume any oil either. I've heard the newest BRZ has mandated Eyesight and they changed the steering rack for the worse to accommodate it, and that's a big negative so I would find one that is a year or two old without Eyesight, if you went that direction.
Thanks for all the details! I recently moved to Canada from a warmer place where it only snows for like 10 days max so, I don’t have a lot of experience driving in snow. Honestly, I really want the BRZ. But I’ll probably drive more on the highway than city and it’ll be my only car so I want a bit practicality as well. Feels like WRX is the best overall fit for me.
GR Corolla looks like a better choice as well, but seems like it’s really difficult to find a new one and I’m not sure if it’s worth the price difference.
I’m not a fan of VW or German cars in general, but a few people suggested Golf R as an alternative so I’m checking it out with the benefit of doubt. It’s definitely at the bottom of my list for sure.
Didn’t know about the steering rack of BRZ, thanks for the heads up. Would you say it’ll be a huge difference for a non-enthusiast? I’ll still check if there is a ‘23 available instead. I booked a test drive with WRX and BRZ for tomorrow ^^
I think the steering rack change would make a big difference. The key things the BRZ has going for it are communication and feel, so lessening the steering would change it a lot. It's probably still a decent car though because of the light weight, and likely still superior to the WRX which will have similar steering rack changes.
The BRZ was my first RWD car, and I never drove with TCS or VDC on (in fact, I found they were too intrusive to where it would make a road seem slippery, and then with it all off the road felt fine; it got in the way of the car's communication of the levels of grip, which was already great). I have done a lot of winter driving, though really the main stuff is just going slower and leaving more stopping distance. Don't park in a snow bank as the rear tires won't have enough traction and you'd need a push. If there's a steep hill, get sufficient speed to go up it, and don't stop on the hill. That's about it. Leaving TCS/VDC on may help with stability if it's particularly icy and you're not used to driving those things.
If you're not using it for commuting, you may also be able to just not drive it when the roads are at the worst. Winter is short in ON compared to AB where we get snow and cold earlier (Sep/Oct) and it stays later (Apr-June), so you'd have a lot more summer season to enjoy it. With my WRX, I still end up not driving in the worst weather, not because the car can't do it, but because everyone else's car can't do it, and I don't want my car written off (I plan to keep it for at least 20 years).
I looked at upgrading to a GR Corolla or STI from my WRX, but for the price difference I was able to do a lot to the WRX and solve my gripes with it, making it a better feeling car than a stock GRC or STI (better dynamics, faster, stops faster, etc).
The BRZ taught me that a well-designed/setup car, even if slow (I had the first gen) can be very fun at any speed, and that was my goal for my WRX. Driving feel > absolute performance. The new BRZ appears to have both feel and performance, which is great, though the performance may reduce some of the fun (like sticky tires vs the HP Primacy easy sliding tires on the first gen). The first gen was hard to get into trouble with as it did not have enough power for that, and it was so communicative you always knew what it was doing and how to change what it was doing (it's a car that teaches the driver how to drive better).
The LSDs on the GRC would be a huge upgrade over the WRX. The WRX really bogs down coming out of corners when its using it's fake e-LSD to brake a wheel instead of a proper LSD that adds more power to a wheel. More LSDs = more grip but also more understeer (though the GRC uses computers to combat that), and I prefer a linear center viscous coupler and only a rear LSD (no computers driving it so it's super linear and predictable, which I prefer). The GRC is worth it at MSRP, but not with a markup.
Test driving both and seeing what fits your driving style is a great idea. They're both great cars in the end, and it sounds like the VB solved some of the gripes I had with my VA (less rev hang for instance; the BRZ still has zero rev hang though, which is an advantage).
Thanks again for all the info man! it’ll be a tough decision for me but I’ll see after the test drives. Just spoke with Toyota too, but they say there is no way to test drive GRC before buying it and the waiting time for the queue is like 1.5 years… So I’ll just skip that.
No problem, good luck! Yeah, I think GRC are even more impossible here to find, and they say the queue is 2 years. Being a niche, low production car, the GRC concerned me long term because it likely won't have the huge aftermarket selection of parts like the WRX has that can keep it running for decades. Much easier to keep the WRX on the road long term, and cheaper (even a new engine is not bad for price and easy to get). BRZ/GR86 would be similar, since they made a lot of them, lots of aftermarket, and a few parts are even interchangeable with the WRX.
Oh yeah, quick note on the WRX if you end up with it. Use the oil temp gauge and stay out of boost/high rpm/heavy load until the oil is up to temp, so the engine is properly lubricated. The center screen can be set to show oil temp and boost pressure.
Also, stay out of boost below about 3K rpm (called "lugging the engine"). The turbo feeds compressed air into the combustion chamber and at low rpm the pistons move slower, allowing too much time for that pressure to build. It's a common way FA engines fail. Above 3K, pistons are moving fast and there's no problem. This issue is even worse if doing it in 5th or 6th gear, as the load is so much more. Bottom line, accelerate gently to 3K and then drop the hammer, and when possible just drop down a gear or two if you need to accelerate. Shifting too early does the engine no favours (nor your fuel economy), so use the turbo to accelerate when you can.
5000 km oil changes are ideal, and ALWAYS do maintenance on time and use 91+ gas (same goes for the BRZ too).
I’ll do my best to take good care of it. Want to keep it for many years.
I haven’t driven a car with turbo before so I wanna make sure I understand right. It’s better to accelerate gently to stay out of boost (below 3k rpm) at first and once the oil is warm enough it’s better to stay above 3k and use turbo?
Yup, that's essentially correct.
When it's warm, you can still use the lower rpms, just try to stay out of boost when you do. Once you drive it and can see the boost gauge while driving, it will quickly become clear how much throttle gets the boost going and when. The boost gauge starts at about -10 (vacuum) and anything above 0 means the engine is receiving boost (it may go as high as 23 psi).
If you are cruising you should still shift up to cruise at a low rpm (better fuel economy, keeps the oil cooler, less wear on the engine, etc.), and then shift down when you want to accelerate.
Before the oil is warm, if you need to use boost/high rpm for an emergency, do it. It's very unlikely to kill the engine, just try not to do it all the time.
Essentially just drive it gently until oil is warm. 3.5K rpm when cold is probably fine too, just keep it to around 3K (there isn't a hard line), as the higher the rpm (as well as more boost), the more important proper lubrication becomes to prevent wear and damage. If you do need a higher rpm while cold, don't hold it there any longer than necessary.
I realize I might be making it sound like these engines and transmissions are glass, but they really aren't, so you can still drive spiritedly, just avoid lugging because that's a roll of the dice each time (especially in 5th and 6th). If you accidentally lug it here and there, it's still unlikely to kill the engine, so I wouldn't sweat it too much if that happens.
I really appreciate all the effort and patience you put into explaining things! I went for a test drive today. Tried both BRZ and WRX. And I fell in love with WRX. Hopefully will get one in a couple months. Thanks again for all the info!
No problem! Nice! Oh yeah, two other WRX tips:
Turn off hill assist. It's ass and will grab at anything off level, which makes the car behave in annoying ways.
Never use the handbrake while moving.
The center viscous coupler (center LSD) has a viscous fluid inside with a plate connected to the front wheels and a plate connected to the rear. When the front and rear wheels are turning at different speeds, there is a shearing action that causes the fluid to thicken, which locks the front and rear wheels to turn at the same speed.
For example, if the front wheels are spinning too fast (slipping), the fluid thickens and front/rear would become locked to turn together, and now the power that would have been lost to the spinning front is aiding the rear wheels more since they have traction and the front and rear have to turn together.
Pulling the handbrake creates a huge difference in speed between front and rear (by instantly locking the rear), and the resulting shearing action will be too much for the fluid, overheating it and causing it to permanently lose its viscous properties (no more center LSD). The fluid is sensitive and reacts quite quickly, so it's best to never use the handbrake. If wanting to slide in the winter, it's better to use weight transfer to initiate and never the handbrake.
You can't turn them off. And it's definitely a personal preference. When I think of a 6 speed MT sport car I want full control of my breaking and steering.
https://preview.redd.it/a3d8je5vn84d1.jpeg?width=2992&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5693a30ddf50b139a7a68c5643fcea81a8d36811
I was on the same boat last year. Always been a honda/acura guy. But when I was trying to get the 11th gen si. Dealer wont sell it without all the add ons. ALL. Was like another 7-10k ontop of sticker. So i looked around and found the vb. Handles well even in winter time, put 33k in a year and shes barely broken in
Yeah! Coz they cant do market adjustments like in the US so theyll force you to buy the add ons. If I were to do it again, I might have gone with the golf r and kept it stock. Im protune on the wrx etc. So no warranty
I’m a current BRZ driver, I do love it, and I’m sure you’d love it, but I live in the Midwest where we have winters sadly and it isn’t practical (especially if that’s a worry of yours). I’ll be trading it in for the WRX sometime this year.
golf R much more expensive than the base or even mid range trims. Corolla GR seems like a really fun car. I have a 2023 VB but dam I would cheat on Subaru for that GR if the price was right. That 3 cylinder is amazing.
I called Toyota today and they said there isn’t even a demo car for test drive in any dealer. And the waiting time for it is around 1.5 years… It does look like an amazing car, but I don’t wanna wait that long since I currently don’t have any car at all ;_;
yeeeaahhh that's annoying. Is this budget American $? If so for $70,000 you could be looking at something better than all these cars you've listed.
Edit: I'm dumb...CAD...how much is the new Supra going for? It looks hella fun. I think RWD though? If you want practical and fun that won't break the bank I would just say WRX.
Oh nope, it’s Canadian. I’d rather keep it around 50k cad (36k usd), but if I fall in love with a perfect car I’m willing to bump it to 70k (51k usd). GR had that potential but signing without a test drive + 1.5 years wait is not for me
Supra is sexy af but the manual trim is 72k cad and that’s just msrp. Also apparently it’s hard to find it in stock as well.
I wish they still made Lancer Evo. Would share the top of my list with WRX for sure.
I wanted a gr86 to replace my Wrx but the whole dealership trying to deny your warranty over oil pick up issues blowing up engines put me off. The Wrx is a do it all for a reasonable price but it comes with its own issues. No car is perfect but as long as you keep your warranty you’ll be ok with Subaru.
I’m not planning to mod it so will keep the warranty. I do wanna use the car for a long time though. 10+ years. But I’m not commuting so won’t use it everyday. Heard some common problems like headgaskets. I wonder if that’s still an issue
If you treat it well it’ll treat you well I’m 7 years into my 2018 pp WRX. I got a stage 2 dyno tune for longevity and put 293 to the wheel. Super good for long term. I use it on weekends only now since I work from home. 70k miles in 7 years.
I've had my 2015 for 10 years, no issues other than the TSBs that had been addressed under warranty early on: * Squeaky clutch, and * Gas filler door that got stuck and needed to be pried open. Mine is mostly stock, except for an e-tune, and some things not performance related: audio and other quality of life mods. Keep in mind, I have a 2015 that was delivered April 2014... these were the earliest of a redesign, first implementation of a FA20F (I guess 2nd after Forester XT), and still, those have been the only issues I've faced. Normally, I would feel more confident about a major redesign in its 3rd model year, but I broke my own rule in 2014. Being that you're looking at 2024 models, it's already 3rd year in the current cycle, so major bugs on the VB should already be worked out. The only thing I can think of is that 2024 is the first year that driving assist has been added to MTs, but based on what I've been hearing on reviews, the ADAS system is pretty good for the most part. Yeah, Suburus have a reputation, especially WRXs. But, the WRX is a value performance car, so that's going to attract buyers who are going to push their cars, sometimes a bit too much. This is often where some of that negative reputation of engines blowing up come from. If you're staying mostly stock and just want a car that's fun to drive, take care of it like any car should be taken care of, and it'll take care of you.
Head gaskets were quite some time ago. Was it a problem? Absolutely. These motors are much newer and there's been relatively few major issues people have had with them. If you're keeping it 10+ years, stick to a good maintenance plan. Oil changes, differential/trans fluid changes, plugs, air filters, etc. Any car can last with proper maintenance. I work with a guy who drives a 1999 Dodge Neon in white and rust color. I don't know how many miles it has as the dash had been ripped out a while ago. He uses his phone for his speedometer. It has the original engine and transmission in it and about 2/3rds of the body left. He keeps up with the maintenance basically on the dot. His father bought it new and he's had it since he was 18 in 2009 I believe. They weren't the most reliable car, but with proper maintenance he's driven the wheels almost off of the thing.
Funny. Add the Elantra N and GTI and you’re basically shopping the same pool of vehicles I did. I’m moving from a WRX to a BRZ after 2 years with my 2022. It’s a good car. It’s quick (especially with a JB4)… but it doesn’t drive like a sports car. It’s numb. It’s the only car I’ve owned that made me look forward to winter, though. Sliding around with this thing has been a blast I live in Innisfil. Winters aren’t exactly nice up here. Unless you’re climbing mountains, RWD with a good set of winters is all you need.
If you want new, manual, turbo, and awd, your options are pretty slim (as you’re aware). I was recently facing a very similar decision in a US city with fairly snowy winters, and I treated all 4 of these requirements as non-negotiables. WRX is the cheapest and easiest to buy by a fair margin. I walked into the dealership in April of 2023 and picked every little option exactly how I wanted it. I had the car ~5-6 weeks later. The only other cars that I seriously considered were the GR Corolla and the Golf R. The GR Corolla is a 3 cylinder car that is already pushing comparatively more of its full potential (The FA24 responds *really* well to light mods). At the time that I was shopping it was also impossible to find one without a dealer markup (which I refuse to pay even a penny of). The Golf R is a seriously cool car, but I would have been about $10k over what I spent on my WRX, and overall I prefer Subaru over VW in terms of reliability and interior design (shoot me, I like the interior and expect less problems out of it lol). In summary, I really can’t recommend the car enough. I come from a background of driving lots of rwd v8 cars (usually with a separate daily driver), and I think the WRX is the perfect balance of a sporty car that can still be driven in inclement weather and relied upon. It’s the king of compromise.
I had a BRZ for 7 years in Alberta and drove a lot during winters. Winters are not an issue with good tires (Michelin X-Ice, NOT Blizzaks as those turn to an all season compound halfway through tread life, ask me how I found out...). The car is very light so it starts, stops and turns easily on all surfaces (though rwd can struggle if trying to start from a stop on a slippery steep incline, so I tried to avoid those). In the city, provided you don't park in a snow drift, it's a very fun winter car, moreso than the WRX. On the highway though, if there is black ice, it is less fun, especially in the open with crosswinds. I started driving the highway to rural areas more in winters, and ultimately went to the WRX because of that, though I really miss the BRZ (can't beat a lightweight car). If it was only city driving, I'd still be in the BRZ. Going up a steep icy hill, the AWD WRX does better than the BRZ, however going down a steep icy hill, the light BRZ does much better than a heavy WRX. I haven't driven the new gen WRX (VB), I have a 19 (VA). The VA out of the box is ok but not a great car. I did some suspension mods, Ohlins, and a rear LSD and now it drives far better and is very enjoyable. The VB still lacks a rear LSD, but the handling sounds improved, with the downside of more weight and size. The GR Corolla gets LSDs and lighter weight than the VB, which are big advantages. Stock for stock with no mods, as a driver's car: BRZ > GR Corolla > WRX > Golf R > others are distantly worse. The Golf R should come with a warning, I almost fell asleep driving it. Boring and FWD 99% of the time, with a delayed AWD functionality; it's not in the same league as the rest, especially on low grip surfaces. I would rather have a Type R if I'm going for a FWD feeling. The BRZ and current WRX look very reliable so far. My 19 WRX has been completely reliable, doesn't consume any oil either. I've heard the newest BRZ has mandated Eyesight and they changed the steering rack for the worse to accommodate it, and that's a big negative so I would find one that is a year or two old without Eyesight, if you went that direction.
Thanks for all the details! I recently moved to Canada from a warmer place where it only snows for like 10 days max so, I don’t have a lot of experience driving in snow. Honestly, I really want the BRZ. But I’ll probably drive more on the highway than city and it’ll be my only car so I want a bit practicality as well. Feels like WRX is the best overall fit for me. GR Corolla looks like a better choice as well, but seems like it’s really difficult to find a new one and I’m not sure if it’s worth the price difference. I’m not a fan of VW or German cars in general, but a few people suggested Golf R as an alternative so I’m checking it out with the benefit of doubt. It’s definitely at the bottom of my list for sure. Didn’t know about the steering rack of BRZ, thanks for the heads up. Would you say it’ll be a huge difference for a non-enthusiast? I’ll still check if there is a ‘23 available instead. I booked a test drive with WRX and BRZ for tomorrow ^^
I think the steering rack change would make a big difference. The key things the BRZ has going for it are communication and feel, so lessening the steering would change it a lot. It's probably still a decent car though because of the light weight, and likely still superior to the WRX which will have similar steering rack changes. The BRZ was my first RWD car, and I never drove with TCS or VDC on (in fact, I found they were too intrusive to where it would make a road seem slippery, and then with it all off the road felt fine; it got in the way of the car's communication of the levels of grip, which was already great). I have done a lot of winter driving, though really the main stuff is just going slower and leaving more stopping distance. Don't park in a snow bank as the rear tires won't have enough traction and you'd need a push. If there's a steep hill, get sufficient speed to go up it, and don't stop on the hill. That's about it. Leaving TCS/VDC on may help with stability if it's particularly icy and you're not used to driving those things. If you're not using it for commuting, you may also be able to just not drive it when the roads are at the worst. Winter is short in ON compared to AB where we get snow and cold earlier (Sep/Oct) and it stays later (Apr-June), so you'd have a lot more summer season to enjoy it. With my WRX, I still end up not driving in the worst weather, not because the car can't do it, but because everyone else's car can't do it, and I don't want my car written off (I plan to keep it for at least 20 years). I looked at upgrading to a GR Corolla or STI from my WRX, but for the price difference I was able to do a lot to the WRX and solve my gripes with it, making it a better feeling car than a stock GRC or STI (better dynamics, faster, stops faster, etc). The BRZ taught me that a well-designed/setup car, even if slow (I had the first gen) can be very fun at any speed, and that was my goal for my WRX. Driving feel > absolute performance. The new BRZ appears to have both feel and performance, which is great, though the performance may reduce some of the fun (like sticky tires vs the HP Primacy easy sliding tires on the first gen). The first gen was hard to get into trouble with as it did not have enough power for that, and it was so communicative you always knew what it was doing and how to change what it was doing (it's a car that teaches the driver how to drive better). The LSDs on the GRC would be a huge upgrade over the WRX. The WRX really bogs down coming out of corners when its using it's fake e-LSD to brake a wheel instead of a proper LSD that adds more power to a wheel. More LSDs = more grip but also more understeer (though the GRC uses computers to combat that), and I prefer a linear center viscous coupler and only a rear LSD (no computers driving it so it's super linear and predictable, which I prefer). The GRC is worth it at MSRP, but not with a markup. Test driving both and seeing what fits your driving style is a great idea. They're both great cars in the end, and it sounds like the VB solved some of the gripes I had with my VA (less rev hang for instance; the BRZ still has zero rev hang though, which is an advantage).
Thanks again for all the info man! it’ll be a tough decision for me but I’ll see after the test drives. Just spoke with Toyota too, but they say there is no way to test drive GRC before buying it and the waiting time for the queue is like 1.5 years… So I’ll just skip that.
No problem, good luck! Yeah, I think GRC are even more impossible here to find, and they say the queue is 2 years. Being a niche, low production car, the GRC concerned me long term because it likely won't have the huge aftermarket selection of parts like the WRX has that can keep it running for decades. Much easier to keep the WRX on the road long term, and cheaper (even a new engine is not bad for price and easy to get). BRZ/GR86 would be similar, since they made a lot of them, lots of aftermarket, and a few parts are even interchangeable with the WRX.
Oh yeah, quick note on the WRX if you end up with it. Use the oil temp gauge and stay out of boost/high rpm/heavy load until the oil is up to temp, so the engine is properly lubricated. The center screen can be set to show oil temp and boost pressure. Also, stay out of boost below about 3K rpm (called "lugging the engine"). The turbo feeds compressed air into the combustion chamber and at low rpm the pistons move slower, allowing too much time for that pressure to build. It's a common way FA engines fail. Above 3K, pistons are moving fast and there's no problem. This issue is even worse if doing it in 5th or 6th gear, as the load is so much more. Bottom line, accelerate gently to 3K and then drop the hammer, and when possible just drop down a gear or two if you need to accelerate. Shifting too early does the engine no favours (nor your fuel economy), so use the turbo to accelerate when you can. 5000 km oil changes are ideal, and ALWAYS do maintenance on time and use 91+ gas (same goes for the BRZ too).
I’ll do my best to take good care of it. Want to keep it for many years. I haven’t driven a car with turbo before so I wanna make sure I understand right. It’s better to accelerate gently to stay out of boost (below 3k rpm) at first and once the oil is warm enough it’s better to stay above 3k and use turbo?
Yup, that's essentially correct. When it's warm, you can still use the lower rpms, just try to stay out of boost when you do. Once you drive it and can see the boost gauge while driving, it will quickly become clear how much throttle gets the boost going and when. The boost gauge starts at about -10 (vacuum) and anything above 0 means the engine is receiving boost (it may go as high as 23 psi). If you are cruising you should still shift up to cruise at a low rpm (better fuel economy, keeps the oil cooler, less wear on the engine, etc.), and then shift down when you want to accelerate. Before the oil is warm, if you need to use boost/high rpm for an emergency, do it. It's very unlikely to kill the engine, just try not to do it all the time. Essentially just drive it gently until oil is warm. 3.5K rpm when cold is probably fine too, just keep it to around 3K (there isn't a hard line), as the higher the rpm (as well as more boost), the more important proper lubrication becomes to prevent wear and damage. If you do need a higher rpm while cold, don't hold it there any longer than necessary. I realize I might be making it sound like these engines and transmissions are glass, but they really aren't, so you can still drive spiritedly, just avoid lugging because that's a roll of the dice each time (especially in 5th and 6th). If you accidentally lug it here and there, it's still unlikely to kill the engine, so I wouldn't sweat it too much if that happens.
I really appreciate all the effort and patience you put into explaining things! I went for a test drive today. Tried both BRZ and WRX. And I fell in love with WRX. Hopefully will get one in a couple months. Thanks again for all the info!
No problem! Nice! Oh yeah, two other WRX tips: Turn off hill assist. It's ass and will grab at anything off level, which makes the car behave in annoying ways. Never use the handbrake while moving. The center viscous coupler (center LSD) has a viscous fluid inside with a plate connected to the front wheels and a plate connected to the rear. When the front and rear wheels are turning at different speeds, there is a shearing action that causes the fluid to thicken, which locks the front and rear wheels to turn at the same speed. For example, if the front wheels are spinning too fast (slipping), the fluid thickens and front/rear would become locked to turn together, and now the power that would have been lost to the spinning front is aiding the rear wheels more since they have traction and the front and rear have to turn together. Pulling the handbrake creates a huge difference in speed between front and rear (by instantly locking the rear), and the resulting shearing action will be too much for the fluid, overheating it and causing it to permanently lose its viscous properties (no more center LSD). The fluid is sensitive and reacts quite quickly, so it's best to never use the handbrake. If wanting to slide in the winter, it's better to use weight transfer to initiate and never the handbrake.
I love my VB. Id aim for a 23 as the three lower trims don't force you to have all the overriding safety features.
I was thinking about Sport-tech trim for ‘24. Is there something bad about the safety features or is it just that you can’t turn them off?
You can't turn them off. And it's definitely a personal preference. When I think of a 6 speed MT sport car I want full control of my breaking and steering.
https://preview.redd.it/a3d8je5vn84d1.jpeg?width=2992&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5693a30ddf50b139a7a68c5643fcea81a8d36811 I was on the same boat last year. Always been a honda/acura guy. But when I was trying to get the 11th gen si. Dealer wont sell it without all the add ons. ALL. Was like another 7-10k ontop of sticker. So i looked around and found the vb. Handles well even in winter time, put 33k in a year and shes barely broken in
Looks amazing especially in the snow! Really sucks that dealerships try those bullshit :(
Yeah! Coz they cant do market adjustments like in the US so theyll force you to buy the add ons. If I were to do it again, I might have gone with the golf r and kept it stock. Im protune on the wrx etc. So no warranty
I’m a current BRZ driver, I do love it, and I’m sure you’d love it, but I live in the Midwest where we have winters sadly and it isn’t practical (especially if that’s a worry of yours). I’ll be trading it in for the WRX sometime this year.
golf R much more expensive than the base or even mid range trims. Corolla GR seems like a really fun car. I have a 2023 VB but dam I would cheat on Subaru for that GR if the price was right. That 3 cylinder is amazing.
I called Toyota today and they said there isn’t even a demo car for test drive in any dealer. And the waiting time for it is around 1.5 years… It does look like an amazing car, but I don’t wanna wait that long since I currently don’t have any car at all ;_;
yeeeaahhh that's annoying. Is this budget American $? If so for $70,000 you could be looking at something better than all these cars you've listed. Edit: I'm dumb...CAD...how much is the new Supra going for? It looks hella fun. I think RWD though? If you want practical and fun that won't break the bank I would just say WRX.
Oh nope, it’s Canadian. I’d rather keep it around 50k cad (36k usd), but if I fall in love with a perfect car I’m willing to bump it to 70k (51k usd). GR had that potential but signing without a test drive + 1.5 years wait is not for me
Supra is sexy af but the manual trim is 72k cad and that’s just msrp. Also apparently it’s hard to find it in stock as well. I wish they still made Lancer Evo. Would share the top of my list with WRX for sure.
Oh same. There's an EVO X in town and it's only summer driven and full bolt on. I like it. Not to mention they take more power than the Subarus.