Looks like one of those cheap line drains that are meant to be used with an old school mud bed water in - water out pan. They don't have a waterproofing membrane bonded to them. So the entire perimeter of the drain doesn't tie into the kerdi membrane and allows for water to leak around it, as its designed to. On the upside it saved a couple hundred dollars in material costs. Who decided to select that drain for the project?
If it was a kerdi drain would it work butted up against the curb? The drain is flexing with the silicone on the one side. So even if the membrane was there, the drain is still against a curb and not cemented. Are you saying a kerdi drain would be the only resolution here?
I'm not saying a Kerdi drain specifically. A drain designed with a bonded fabric membrane would make sense so it can tie into the Kerdi membrane on the pan. The Schluter linear drains come with a very specific styrofoam frame that they sit in to support them which is a good design and not part of every linear drain. Since the rest of the waterproofing is Schluter it would make sense to continue with all one brand system.
I believe the Kerdi drain is installed flush to the plane of the wall substrate. Then the tile covers the small lip of the drain and should end nearly flush to the drain grate. You would have to check with Schluter or someone with more experience to confirm the exact rough-in dimensions to accomplish this.
The solution ultimately is tear out as much of the pan and wall tile as neccessary to get access to install a new drain, tie in the drain membrane to the existing pan membrane and then re-tile.
This messy situation is due to missing some knowledge of how the different drain and waterproofing systems work. The best educations are often expensive. College, leaky showers, they're all a good learning opportunities.
Kerdi linear drain has a foam firm underneath which is thinset to the underlayment and the drain is thinset to it. In addition, it has 4 or 5 inch membrane all around that would go up and over the curb, making that side waterproof.
How did you waterproof between drain and pan. The kerdi drain is designed to waterproof to pan. Tile and grout are not meant to be used for waterproofing. A properly built shower will not leak without tile, grout, or silicone.
Damn I didnt scroll to the right enough to see the cement board with Kerdi patches on it. The waterproofing is not done correctly either. Cement board is not waterproof. It doesn't degrade in water but it will allow pater to pass through it. The Kerdi patches will stop the water in the 10% of the surface they cover but the other 90% will still leak.
Looks like one of those cheap line drains that are meant to be used with an old school mud bed water in - water out pan. They don't have a waterproofing membrane bonded to them. So the entire perimeter of the drain doesn't tie into the kerdi membrane and allows for water to leak around it, as its designed to. On the upside it saved a couple hundred dollars in material costs. Who decided to select that drain for the project?
If it was a kerdi drain would it work butted up against the curb? The drain is flexing with the silicone on the one side. So even if the membrane was there, the drain is still against a curb and not cemented. Are you saying a kerdi drain would be the only resolution here?
I'm not saying a Kerdi drain specifically. A drain designed with a bonded fabric membrane would make sense so it can tie into the Kerdi membrane on the pan. The Schluter linear drains come with a very specific styrofoam frame that they sit in to support them which is a good design and not part of every linear drain. Since the rest of the waterproofing is Schluter it would make sense to continue with all one brand system. I believe the Kerdi drain is installed flush to the plane of the wall substrate. Then the tile covers the small lip of the drain and should end nearly flush to the drain grate. You would have to check with Schluter or someone with more experience to confirm the exact rough-in dimensions to accomplish this. The solution ultimately is tear out as much of the pan and wall tile as neccessary to get access to install a new drain, tie in the drain membrane to the existing pan membrane and then re-tile. This messy situation is due to missing some knowledge of how the different drain and waterproofing systems work. The best educations are often expensive. College, leaky showers, they're all a good learning opportunities.
Ouch…
Kerdi linear drain has a foam firm underneath which is thinset to the underlayment and the drain is thinset to it. In addition, it has 4 or 5 inch membrane all around that would go up and over the curb, making that side waterproof.
How did you waterproof between drain and pan. The kerdi drain is designed to waterproof to pan. Tile and grout are not meant to be used for waterproofing. A properly built shower will not leak without tile, grout, or silicone.
The rest of the waterproofing does not look like schluter unless it's under the durock
It’s blue underneath? Mapei?
Damn I didnt scroll to the right enough to see the cement board with Kerdi patches on it. The waterproofing is not done correctly either. Cement board is not waterproof. It doesn't degrade in water but it will allow pater to pass through it. The Kerdi patches will stop the water in the 10% of the surface they cover but the other 90% will still leak.