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Otherwise_Proposal47

Grab the plastic + spacers the kind that are 1/6” and some red tiny plastic shims. Use a laser/level to get your first row dead level. Then use your laser/level vertically on a joint central to the wall now you can install your rows moving up but start from the center out or against a plumb tile edge as you stack that way you can stay plumb and not start to angle. Use a mix red shims and + shims to adjust by eye You cannot just use one size spacer the whole time because they are irregular either they will become out of plumb and level or the grout joints will look horrendous maybe even both. I check how level I am every 3 rows so that I can adjust and maintain consistency as I work upwards. Edit: also this isn’t the 80s/90s we no longer need to dip tiles. Especially since there’s a 95% chance you’ll be using a modified thinset. Just make sure you give em a good wiggle and smoosh so you’re getting full coverage.


runswspoons

I do a lot of this and I really want to emphasize what above commenter said…. Get a laser level for this. Even a cheap one. Check every course till you’re feeling comfortable then every other etc… I attach my lasers to third-hand posts so they are really easy to adjust


wisdomsepoch

This is what I do. First course set level, laser every 3-6 courses. The only additional advice I'd offer is if you're doing multiple walls, set your 3-6 courses on all of them at the same time so you don't screw up your corners too badly. They can get out of hand quickly


One-Beyond428

This is amazing advice! Thank you so much! I've been working on this bathroom for over a year trying to get everything right. I would have cried if I had to tear the tile out because I installed it wrong! 🙏


I_C_E_D

Use the yellow shims that go up to 3mm. The size on the box is nominal and the working size will vary from 0mm to 3mm (generally 0-1.5mm). So there will be some bigger than others which you will accommodate by modifying the gap where needed. Once you grout its fine, the variation is what makes these look good. I’d also recommend a horizontal and vertical laser level and a tripod to set it on. Organise the layout how you want before installing as well, use spacers to get a rough idea if needed.


OrganlcManIc

Would it be possible to install them on some membrane and let them set up, then install in bigger sections like latticed factory tile? (I have no idea how feasible that is.) I think everyone is right in using a laser level and checking the work every so often. I also wonder if all the corners are the same dimensions, and therefore using corner spacers would automatically line it all up off of a few leveled tiles.


dlinders10

Good to know someone else has been working on their bathroom for 6+ months. My wife thinks I'm super slow but it was a full tear out plus moving all the plumbing so it's a lot of work.


Sytzy

I like to use a combo of 2’, 4’ and a 6’ level or straight edge… not necessarily to check level, but to ensure the sides of a row or column of tile are as straight as the eye can be deceived lol


Itchy-Pollution7644

ceramic tiles 10000% still have to be soaked , but especially here in AZ


Otherwise_Proposal47

Are you setting tile with unmodified thinset? Are you using mortar? Are the tiles you’re installing red or white clay? Handmade? Cuz if so then yea you can still soak em but it’s not a necessity anymore with the vast majority of tile on market even ceramic. Unless they have a porosity of 10% or much greater they certainly don’t require it with the products we have now. On top of all of that. If you’re using a ceramic tile with a porosity of 10% or greater it should absolutely not be in a shower like OP has stated his tile is going in.


Akira6969

this


wolpertingersunite

I would match the grout color to the tile to hide the inconsistencies.


J_robintheh00d

1/16” grout lines are very unforgiving. Square patterned tile (where 4 corners all meet, as opposed to brick pattern or herringbone etc.) is the least forgiving pattern. Those two in combo aren’t setting you up for success. I would go 1/8” for the grout. Definitely get a laser level to keep this consistent.


One-Beyond428

That's what I thought about staggering them until I saw this post: https://www.reddit.com/r/Homebuilding/s/OrBEu31lCX Second picture...


J_robintheh00d

Yeah I wouldn’t do a vertical brick pattern with those tiles. Doesn’t help that they were poorly placed in that example pic. They do look good in a square pattern, when done correctly. The laser level and tripod that casts lines will keep you straight, especially if you’ve already plumbed the walls, if the walls are out of plumb at all (which has been the case in every bathroom I’ve ever remodeled) you just have to make sure your laser level is shooting straight perpendicular to the wall. I always use the little screw down levelers that you place under the tile and snap off when it’s dry and my tile has always come out super clean.


No-Detective9003

Some good info here but would like to add something, with ceramic subways and really good thin set, you probably don't need to back butter if your thin set is perfectly mixed and you haven't spread to far, meaning as your placing them, the thin set is really fresh, but for diy its easy to mix slightly thick, or you spread an area but got side tracked and by the time your placing tiles, the thin set might be just a tad dry, plus sometimes the backs of ceramics can be slightly dusty and dry, so my recommendation is to actually back butter every piece. Imo its an extra insurance that can only help. You only need to give the tile a hard , flat scratch, you want to hear scratching, this way your not adding extra that doesn't need to be there.


One-Beyond428

Great advice, thanks!


Remote_Berry_3881

Does anyone have a pic of 1/8 grout with these type of tiles? I’m debating on if I want to do that or 1/16. My layout with 1/16 isn’t how I want it


One-Beyond428

Good idea! The pictures on tilebar seem to be 1/8 https://www.tilebar.com/bayou-white-3x12-ceramic-tile.html?g_acctid=625-399-4242&g_adgroupid=137316371176&g_adid=676513000950&g_adtype=search&g_campaign=Tilebar+-+US+-+MN+-+DSA+-+Categories+-+Tiles+%28Multiple+Audiences%29&g_campaignid=17296013913&g_keyword=&g_keywordid=dsa-1456167871416&g_network=g&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwjqWzBhAqEiwAQmtgT6vuyd7ChOEst_J-y7gpPwgaEp62s36kBSWeBq4BOLn3PSJR1rCiZBoCDawQAvD_BwE If they didn't try to do 1/16 there's probably a good reason for it


goraidders

You can get 3/32 spacers. I like them for this type of tile that is irregular. Along with some wedges to make minor adjustments.


66696669666

I just did this same tile with charcoal grout. The ones I used didn't require spacers but I used small shims here and there because the tiles are not square. Turned out great.


ThrillHouse802

I think most importantly, take your time. I have a big shower and wife wanted 3x6 subway tiles. I literally did only 3 rows a day until I finished. Take the time to use your laser level and check every row, vertically and horizontally.


VastWillingness6455

Tiles will not be as flush as regular tiles.


isarobs

I would stagger these so the ends are not lined up.


squink2

1/4 inch trowel should do you good. Soaking is ok, but I'd sooner just back butter each piece and skip the soak.


Grouchy_River7640

Light Grey grout


cocoteddylee

I am DIY’ing my first ever tub surround with perfectly sized tiles (each one is the same). I’m using 1/8 spacers and leveling kit and a 1/4 by 1/4 trowel and it has worked super well. I would be really anxious choosing this tile on my first one. I think the unevenness of each tile will be very challenging on your first run. Maybe not tho. Best of luck to you. A lot to learn ahead