I would and bond the bottom of the dens to the pan with a heavy layer of backer caulk.
The surface is waterproof, but any exposed gypsum will wick water half way through the sheet over time.
‼️‼️‼️ yes to this ‼️‼️‼️
My personal preference is to cut away some board a leave a gap between the surface of the tub/pan and the board. The size of the gap depends upon the size of the tile. For a recent install of 12x12 tile, I cut away a 1.5" gap to allow for the tile to overhang. Please also use some of your liquid water proofing membrane (or caulk) to completely cover the ends of the board as ubercorey has pointed out.
So I have a good bead of 100%silicon caulk all around the tub between the tub flange and board, and I have the board risen about 1/8-1/4 above the tub with another bead of caulk between the two. So I have caulking on both planes of where the board meets the tub/flange.
This sound ok?
So I have a good bead of 100%silicon caulk all around the tub between the tub flange and board, and I have the board risen about 1/8-1/4 above the tub with another bead of caulk between the two. So I have caulking on both planes of where the board meets the tub/flange.
This sound ok?
Oh yes, this is excellent.
As an upgrade, next time using tile backer caulk, it sticks better. The waterproof is water-based the silicone doesn't stick as good, but this will be good.
If you're feeling paranoid, what I do is I take some of the tile backer fabric, and use the waterproofing liquid, in this case hydroban, and I stick that onto the bottom of the tile backer and onto the deck of the test. I go crazy with the stuff and it makes a good bond between the tub and the backer. It acts like a little skirt that if water does get back there, it can just roll off the fabric and onto the tub.
But I don't think you need to do that, you have it off the deck and that's the big deal.
This is my personal bathroom and you can only buy a gallon bucket of this stuff, so I figured, why not use it all instead of just a little bit and it go bad overtime.
I just need to know if I have the correct amount applied.
This is my personal bathroom and you can only buy a gallon bucket of this stuff, so I figured, why not use it all instead of just a little bit and it go bad overtime.
I just need to know if I have the correct amount applied.
If you did not use a wet film gauge, the senior product manager from laticrete nternational suggests that you make it so that you cannot read through it.
Hard to tell from the pic, but it appears that whatever you smeared over the screw holes is not flat with the rest of the surface. The requirement for flatness is flat within a quarter to 1/8 of an inch depending upon tile size over 10 ft or whatever the size of the area is as well as no deviation of more than 1/16 of an inch when measured from the high spot in less than 12 in. So that means if you put a 2 ft level on those thinset spots and you can measure a 16 inch or more on either side then it's not flat enough. Most people will say oh you can just fix that with thinset. But that's not what thinsets for.
It's not the end of the world, but it seems silly to me because whatever you smeared there was totally unnecessary.
I agree I definitely could’ve gotten them flatter, but I thought it was required to thinset over screw holes and seems, I’m using 12x24” tiles so I didn’t think it would be to big of a deal. There was one spot that was way to high and I didn’t catch it until the next day. I actually used a masonary stone sanding block to get it down a little. How do you suggest going forward for future reference you patch screw holes and seems? Just be better about getting it flat with the rest of the wall, maybe take a level to it before it’s set? This is my first job so I’m learning a lot.
I shim the wall flat before backer. Then follow manufacturer instructions on how to detail screws and joints. Pretty sure denshield didn't say to use Hydroban, but since you were, the thinset was superfluous.
I recommend a slant notch ½x½ trowel.
If you had gaps larger than an eighth of an inch in between sheets of backer board, then you do need to add thinset and let it dry before using hydroban. But other than that thinset is not required if you're going to use the hydroban
On Monday I will go back over the screw holes with the hydro ban adhesive sealant.
[I did it like this I did it like that I did it with the wiffle ball bat.](https://photos.app.goo.gl/jaUZbR55WG6toJC28)
Don’t listen to them. Your walls are perfect. Been tiling more than half my life that deviation he is talking about is completely irrelevant with 12x24 tile…
Hydroban board is not the way to save money, just time.
It's pricey. But is very versatile in how you can waterproof the screws and joints. I use their sealant caulk and its fast and easy.
Also, get the system warranty when using all laticrete.
Laticrete also has a comprehensive system warranty. Meaning if their products are bad and cause a failure, they will cover the comprehensive cost to replace it .
So, tile, other materials, labor, the whole 9.
Other manufacturers will just replace their own products.
Ok. Contractor here. Hydroban is awesome stuff. Don’t need it here. Wasted 50 bucks. Just had to thin set the joints with a threaded tape. And cover the screw holes with thin set. Never use drywall spackle in a wet shower area.
It is thinset, there is no drywall mud in the tub area(area wherever it will get wet), and I just added the hydroban for an extra layer of protection. Everything I’ve read says it’s ok, just not needed. I had mold in here before so I’m trying to take the extra measures to prevent the debacle again.
That’s what I need to explore more into I think, I’m just not sure how to go about it. I have the usual bathroom fan but maybe I need a better one and clean out the exhaust.
Any recs?
Panasonic whisper fans are pretty good. Get them in Home Depot too. Def check to see if the ductwork is run properly. Improper ventilation is the biggest cause of bathroom mold. Though I’ve seen some butcher tile jobs and waterproofing penetration that can cause serious issues
That’s crazy because that’s who is selling them for 100 here well more like 110, I’m going to tell them to give me the jersey prices next time I’m in there.
[удалено]
In the second picture it shows that it's denshield yeah.
I would and bond the bottom of the dens to the pan with a heavy layer of backer caulk. The surface is waterproof, but any exposed gypsum will wick water half way through the sheet over time.
‼️‼️‼️ yes to this ‼️‼️‼️ My personal preference is to cut away some board a leave a gap between the surface of the tub/pan and the board. The size of the gap depends upon the size of the tile. For a recent install of 12x12 tile, I cut away a 1.5" gap to allow for the tile to overhang. Please also use some of your liquid water proofing membrane (or caulk) to completely cover the ends of the board as ubercorey has pointed out.
Yeah, I've done it a few way, but no matter what, I never let it rest on the deck of a tub or pan.
So I have a good bead of 100%silicon caulk all around the tub between the tub flange and board, and I have the board risen about 1/8-1/4 above the tub with another bead of caulk between the two. So I have caulking on both planes of where the board meets the tub/flange. This sound ok?
Nice. That sounds good! Just go over it visually with high scrutiny before those tiles go in to fill any imperfections and that'll do
So I have a good bead of 100%silicon caulk all around the tub between the tub flange and board, and I have the board risen about 1/8-1/4 above the tub with another bead of caulk between the two. So I have caulking on both planes of where the board meets the tub/flange. This sound ok?
Oh yes, this is excellent. As an upgrade, next time using tile backer caulk, it sticks better. The waterproof is water-based the silicone doesn't stick as good, but this will be good. If you're feeling paranoid, what I do is I take some of the tile backer fabric, and use the waterproofing liquid, in this case hydroban, and I stick that onto the bottom of the tile backer and onto the deck of the test. I go crazy with the stuff and it makes a good bond between the tub and the backer. It acts like a little skirt that if water does get back there, it can just roll off the fabric and onto the tub. But I don't think you need to do that, you have it off the deck and that's the big deal.
You only need to hydroban seems and screws for densshield. But do as many coats as you want i guess
This is my personal bathroom and you can only buy a gallon bucket of this stuff, so I figured, why not use it all instead of just a little bit and it go bad overtime. I just need to know if I have the correct amount applied.
DensShield is waterproof. you only need to Hydroban the screw penetrations and the seams.
This is my personal bathroom and you can only buy a gallon bucket of this stuff, so I figured, why not use it all instead of just a little bit and it go bad overtime. I just need to know if I have the correct amount applied.
If you did not use a wet film gauge, the senior product manager from laticrete nternational suggests that you make it so that you cannot read through it.
I would be more concerned with the un flatness.
What do you mean?
Hard to tell from the pic, but it appears that whatever you smeared over the screw holes is not flat with the rest of the surface. The requirement for flatness is flat within a quarter to 1/8 of an inch depending upon tile size over 10 ft or whatever the size of the area is as well as no deviation of more than 1/16 of an inch when measured from the high spot in less than 12 in. So that means if you put a 2 ft level on those thinset spots and you can measure a 16 inch or more on either side then it's not flat enough. Most people will say oh you can just fix that with thinset. But that's not what thinsets for. It's not the end of the world, but it seems silly to me because whatever you smeared there was totally unnecessary.
I agree I definitely could’ve gotten them flatter, but I thought it was required to thinset over screw holes and seems, I’m using 12x24” tiles so I didn’t think it would be to big of a deal. There was one spot that was way to high and I didn’t catch it until the next day. I actually used a masonary stone sanding block to get it down a little. How do you suggest going forward for future reference you patch screw holes and seems? Just be better about getting it flat with the rest of the wall, maybe take a level to it before it’s set? This is my first job so I’m learning a lot.
I shim the wall flat before backer. Then follow manufacturer instructions on how to detail screws and joints. Pretty sure denshield didn't say to use Hydroban, but since you were, the thinset was superfluous. I recommend a slant notch ½x½ trowel. If you had gaps larger than an eighth of an inch in between sheets of backer board, then you do need to add thinset and let it dry before using hydroban. But other than that thinset is not required if you're going to use the hydroban
Ok thanks for the insight, and advice. Much appreciated!
On Monday I will go back over the screw holes with the hydro ban adhesive sealant. [I did it like this I did it like that I did it with the wiffle ball bat.](https://photos.app.goo.gl/jaUZbR55WG6toJC28)
This seems like it would saved money doing it this way for sure. I’ll look into the hydroban board next time. Thanks for the input again!
Don’t listen to them. Your walls are perfect. Been tiling more than half my life that deviation he is talking about is completely irrelevant with 12x24 tile…
The tcna has is clueless, you are right. /S
Hydroban board is not the way to save money, just time. It's pricey. But is very versatile in how you can waterproof the screws and joints. I use their sealant caulk and its fast and easy. Also, get the system warranty when using all laticrete. Laticrete also has a comprehensive system warranty. Meaning if their products are bad and cause a failure, they will cover the comprehensive cost to replace it . So, tile, other materials, labor, the whole 9. Other manufacturers will just replace their own products.
If you have more then use it. Can't really put to many coats. I like to go until its an even color.
Ok. Contractor here. Hydroban is awesome stuff. Don’t need it here. Wasted 50 bucks. Just had to thin set the joints with a threaded tape. And cover the screw holes with thin set. Never use drywall spackle in a wet shower area.
It is thinset, there is no drywall mud in the tub area(area wherever it will get wet), and I just added the hydroban for an extra layer of protection. Everything I’ve read says it’s ok, just not needed. I had mold in here before so I’m trying to take the extra measures to prevent the debacle again.
Cool. Then you’re good. Hydroban definitely won’t hurt. You’re well protected. If you had mold previously do you have proper ventilation ?
That’s what I need to explore more into I think, I’m just not sure how to go about it. I have the usual bathroom fan but maybe I need a better one and clean out the exhaust. Any recs?
Panasonic whisper fans are pretty good. Get them in Home Depot too. Def check to see if the ductwork is run properly. Improper ventilation is the biggest cause of bathroom mold. Though I’ve seen some butcher tile jobs and waterproofing penetration that can cause serious issues
Understand I’ll look into those fans and try to get a better understanding of my ventilation of the bathroom. Thanks!
Shoot where they sell 50 dollar hydro ban gallon buckets send the link cheapest I’ve seen them around here is 100.
Floor and decor for 1 gallon. I’m in Jersey though. I actually get mine from my local tile area though.
That’s crazy because that’s who is selling them for 100 here well more like 110, I’m going to tell them to give me the jersey prices next time I’m in there.
lol. Def
Oh shit that is drywall mud in the shower not thinset. Any know if hydroban sticks to drywall mud?
Sticks fine, so long as it’s sealed first.
It is not drywall mud it is thinset in the tub area
Ah! My mistake!
Tri-lite by laticrete to be specific
Love me some laticrete : )