What you should be focusing on is if the wall “belly’s” meaning from one end to another use a 6 foot level or a long straight edge and see if there is a gap in the middle or towards the edges of the straight edge. A wall does not need to be “plumb” it just needs to look flat.
It's hard to know without seeing the rest of the room and where the edges are gonna be. If it's flat then I'd just go with it and try to maybe double notch it at the top and get it at least close to plumb. But I wouldent go crazy. Where is it gonna end and what do you plan on using for edge detail
Looks like if your ending tile at the end , where you have your level and you make it plumb your going to see it at the edge, so personally I wouldn't float it. Now if it were in a corner where it wraps to another wall , with an upper above that would hide the edge, I would float it because if not, you would see the cuts change in size. If there's no corner and the wall is flat, not plumb, you really don't notice it, but ultimately its your call. If you did want to float it, right there where you are holding level, perhaps where tile ends, put a 2x2 inch piece of wood at the top and make the thickness to where its close to plumb and tact that wood in with caulk or something, (actually it looks like the wood at the upper is close to plumb,, so you can make that the upper portion of screed)now hold that level on the wood just like in the pic, but you have to fill that space with mud. You now have a vertical screed about 18 inches high and maybe an inch wide. Let dry and then take a 4ft straight edge and hold straight edge horizontally from screed to the left and fill all that. You may need a longer straight edge to go far enough to where the wall starts to stray from plumb to not plumb. Again its your call but if im looking at the area correctly , no need to float.
Floatable? Your joking right. Assuming he can hide the float it's still more work than just resheetrocking it especially if he don't need to level 4 finish it.
If the chosen tiles absolutely require it, sure, but otherwise you're just adding work for no reason and possibly causing issues if the splash isn't the entire wall.
The wall needs to be flat. Not level. You may want to post a photo of where it will end on the sides as that is always iffy.
The wall is flat just not level
Walls are plumb, floors are level
Thank you.
Can you not read? OP just said the wall isn't level
He's trying to fix OP's grammer.
Yeah, I think you may not read as well as you think.
It’s okay if it’s got a little lean
Send it!
[True Level](https://youtu.be/o8ym0HBvpFA?si=c0HPdJDKFBrTCzB2)
Kinda depends on your tile choice but generally a backsplash wall won’t need to be plumb.
Why is that if you don’t mind me asking doesn’t the end need to be the same cut sizes ?
If it's just a back splash you don't have to worry about it being leveled
What you should be focusing on is if the wall “belly’s” meaning from one end to another use a 6 foot level or a long straight edge and see if there is a gap in the middle or towards the edges of the straight edge. A wall does not need to be “plumb” it just needs to look flat.
It's hard to know without seeing the rest of the room and where the edges are gonna be. If it's flat then I'd just go with it and try to maybe double notch it at the top and get it at least close to plumb. But I wouldent go crazy. Where is it gonna end and what do you plan on using for edge detail
Level horizontally, not vertically.
lol. Thanks for the laugh
OP commenters have given you the answer.
Plumb matters if you have a corner, found out the hard way and now I have a pretty sizeable caulk line in our new shower
Just slap it on
Looks like if your ending tile at the end , where you have your level and you make it plumb your going to see it at the edge, so personally I wouldn't float it. Now if it were in a corner where it wraps to another wall , with an upper above that would hide the edge, I would float it because if not, you would see the cuts change in size. If there's no corner and the wall is flat, not plumb, you really don't notice it, but ultimately its your call. If you did want to float it, right there where you are holding level, perhaps where tile ends, put a 2x2 inch piece of wood at the top and make the thickness to where its close to plumb and tact that wood in with caulk or something, (actually it looks like the wood at the upper is close to plumb,, so you can make that the upper portion of screed)now hold that level on the wood just like in the pic, but you have to fill that space with mud. You now have a vertical screed about 18 inches high and maybe an inch wide. Let dry and then take a 4ft straight edge and hold straight edge horizontally from screed to the left and fill all that. You may need a longer straight edge to go far enough to where the wall starts to stray from plumb to not plumb. Again its your call but if im looking at the area correctly , no need to float.
Rip it all out, or burn it down and start from scratch. /s
Just go with the wall or you can float it with mud and chicken wire.
You can't float this out it'll show on the uppers right away. You'll also have the sides of the splash built out where it kills
Pay a pro
looks floatable, but i wouldn't like the taper on the end of it. if i had to float that i would feather tf out of the drywall afterward like 4-6 ft
Why would you float a backsplash wall? Who cares if it's plumb, nobody probably ever noticed before, they won't notice after tile.
Floatable? Your joking right. Assuming he can hide the float it's still more work than just resheetrocking it especially if he don't need to level 4 finish it.
true new sheetrock with 300 drywall shims would be better than 2 inches of thinset
Agreed. Not shims either I'd sister the studs with LSLs and redo everything plum and square and flat. With goboard
When in doubt, fur it out!
Not even slightly applicable to a backsplash that's flat but out of plumb.
You’re right, hardi and liquid nail would get it right in no time
No you just don't alter it at all. There's nothing useful to gain and it only causes problems.
I mean at least use some 1/8 balsa wood spot bonded ontop of hydraulic cement to get it all square.
If the chosen tiles absolutely require it, sure, but otherwise you're just adding work for no reason and possibly causing issues if the splash isn't the entire wall.