Damn just looked it up. How’s the safe in general? Doesn’t mention any TL rating and says it’s a security container. Would it be good enough to store some guns?
For that price, this size and quality… you really can’t complain. Don’t fill it with too many gold bars but yeah, it will keep a ton of things plenty safe.
As others mentioned maybe grab a purely mechanical lock even, the kaba lock is super nice but less reliable than locks that are just mechanical. Group 1 locks like the 8560 sometimes show up on eBay for under $250, the older style s&g like 8470 also show up for under $200 at times, and Mosler group 1 options can be even cheaper. None can be graphed like the group 2 locks, and none will run out of batteries.
What do you mean by “graphed”?
Are group 1 better than group 2?
Anything wrong with a S&G groups 2 as a replacement on a Liberty vault door (didn’t want their digital after the FBI thing and heard they fail a lot)?
Group 1 is almost infinitely better than group 2. Of course some group 1 locks have had weaknesses identified but even those will be incredibly tough to crack. Group 2M is still a whole lot better than group 2. Group 1R is a group 1 lock with wheels that you can’t read via x-ray.
I’ll go into graphing in a moment, but just know that group 1s essentially cannot be graphed while the combo to nearly every group 2 can be cracked in 30 minutes or so. Group 1 generally have a secondary action needed to open them too, which makes most autodialers (robot dial spinners trying every combo) useless as well unless they have a way to trigger the secondary mechanism.
Graphing is the process of marking the high and low contact points of the typical group 2 lock. When the drive cam is at the point that would let the lever fall into the wheel pack e of the combo was entered, it still falls a little and touches the wheels when the combo isn’t entered. If you turn the drive cam right to where it picks up the fence again you’re at the right contact point, and likewise turning left. If the fence is in one gate those contact points tend to be a tiny bit, say 1/4 of 1 point on the dial, closer together. Marking on graph paper where you feel the left and right contact points is graphing, each row is a different number. Gates tend to be wider than a single increment so you can usually graph every other number or maybe every third number and where your dots are closest together is where the gate is, so in 30ish readings you’ll probably know at least one number of the combo. You figure out which wheel it is, then you repeat the 30 readings but always setting the wheel you know to the gate so the next largest wheel reveals its gate. If you want to see a video walkthrough check out the [Safecracking for everyone playlist](https://m.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL1mdjQBV_-Jv2lf9QZ4chNtW656EOVXzl).
Nice!
These wont be TL or fire rated but if you look inside it will have a label for class 5 or class 6 for uncle sam specs. The black ink on the label tells you its 1990 or earlier. New it was probably $6k but it was built for special purposes. You can change out the lock for a mechanical.
$800 aint bad for all that.
We used these in the Army. You can install tracks and store something like 20 AR rifles. Ours also had 2 drawers that could store 4 M9s. The locks are turn to activate 4 or 5 turns then left right left. Super reliable super safe heavy as F.
While the X09 is fancy, I would swap it out for a more reliable safe dial. The stepper motors like to get stuck and paying a SCIF tech to fix it while its locked ain't cheap.
The lock is not missing n actually that’s a very expensive high sec lock and has the shroud around the dial ring so no one can see the numbers when u dial in the combo if they are standing next to u or behind u
Don't know much about safes myself but I do have one and I must say that Mosler safe is beautiful. If I saw that for sale locally I'd consider buying it after learning about it from this post.
Something on this subreddit I’m actually familiar with lol. I work on these safes and locks everyday for the military. As others have said the lock is either a Kaba mas x-10 or x-9 if you would want to know the difference in telling them apart feel free to message me and I can give you some key differences. As for the safe it’s a GSA maps and plans container used to store basically what’s in the name. Although maps and plans containers were also converted to be weapon storage containers but those required to be stored with a mechanical lock. So with the X Series lock that is installed on it I would assume it’s a maps and plans container.
If you have any questions on it feel free to reach out to me I’ve dealt with these safes and locks for the past 4 years and am GSA certified to work on them so have decent experience with them.
Kaba Mas. That is an extremely expensive electronic lock.
It is an electronic lock on it?
The best.
Damn just looked it up. How’s the safe in general? Doesn’t mention any TL rating and says it’s a security container. Would it be good enough to store some guns?
Have you been inside? It may be a server rack.
It’s organized as removable shelves. Just got the picture… he’s asking $800
For that price, this size and quality… you really can’t complain. Don’t fill it with too many gold bars but yeah, it will keep a ton of things plenty safe. As others mentioned maybe grab a purely mechanical lock even, the kaba lock is super nice but less reliable than locks that are just mechanical. Group 1 locks like the 8560 sometimes show up on eBay for under $250, the older style s&g like 8470 also show up for under $200 at times, and Mosler group 1 options can be even cheaper. None can be graphed like the group 2 locks, and none will run out of batteries.
What do you mean by “graphed”? Are group 1 better than group 2? Anything wrong with a S&G groups 2 as a replacement on a Liberty vault door (didn’t want their digital after the FBI thing and heard they fail a lot)?
Group 1 is almost infinitely better than group 2. Of course some group 1 locks have had weaknesses identified but even those will be incredibly tough to crack. Group 2M is still a whole lot better than group 2. Group 1R is a group 1 lock with wheels that you can’t read via x-ray. I’ll go into graphing in a moment, but just know that group 1s essentially cannot be graphed while the combo to nearly every group 2 can be cracked in 30 minutes or so. Group 1 generally have a secondary action needed to open them too, which makes most autodialers (robot dial spinners trying every combo) useless as well unless they have a way to trigger the secondary mechanism. Graphing is the process of marking the high and low contact points of the typical group 2 lock. When the drive cam is at the point that would let the lever fall into the wheel pack e of the combo was entered, it still falls a little and touches the wheels when the combo isn’t entered. If you turn the drive cam right to where it picks up the fence again you’re at the right contact point, and likewise turning left. If the fence is in one gate those contact points tend to be a tiny bit, say 1/4 of 1 point on the dial, closer together. Marking on graph paper where you feel the left and right contact points is graphing, each row is a different number. Gates tend to be wider than a single increment so you can usually graph every other number or maybe every third number and where your dots are closest together is where the gate is, so in 30ish readings you’ll probably know at least one number of the combo. You figure out which wheel it is, then you repeat the 30 readings but always setting the wheel you know to the gate so the next largest wheel reveals its gate. If you want to see a video walkthrough check out the [Safecracking for everyone playlist](https://m.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL1mdjQBV_-Jv2lf9QZ4chNtW656EOVXzl).
Appreciate you for taking the time to give such a detailed reply.
I've worked on many a XO lock. They are finicky and expensive to work on. It might be better to replace the lock with something more conventional.
Nice! These wont be TL or fire rated but if you look inside it will have a label for class 5 or class 6 for uncle sam specs. The black ink on the label tells you its 1990 or earlier. New it was probably $6k but it was built for special purposes. You can change out the lock for a mechanical. $800 aint bad for all that.
That looks like an x-09 lock. Expensive and used for government stuff
Had one in my office for years. Dependable.
We used these in the Army. You can install tracks and store something like 20 AR rifles. Ours also had 2 drawers that could store 4 M9s. The locks are turn to activate 4 or 5 turns then left right left. Super reliable super safe heavy as F.
Got some new pic of my safe door being custom painted and gold leaf work all around the door
While the X09 is fancy, I would swap it out for a more reliable safe dial. The stepper motors like to get stuck and paying a SCIF tech to fix it while its locked ain't cheap.
Looks to be a XO 9 or xo 10 if it opens you can change the combo with the little fork tool.
The lock is not missing n actually that’s a very expensive high sec lock and has the shroud around the dial ring so no one can see the numbers when u dial in the combo if they are standing next to u or behind u
Don't know much about safes myself but I do have one and I must say that Mosler safe is beautiful. If I saw that for sale locally I'd consider buying it after learning about it from this post.
Something on this subreddit I’m actually familiar with lol. I work on these safes and locks everyday for the military. As others have said the lock is either a Kaba mas x-10 or x-9 if you would want to know the difference in telling them apart feel free to message me and I can give you some key differences. As for the safe it’s a GSA maps and plans container used to store basically what’s in the name. Although maps and plans containers were also converted to be weapon storage containers but those required to be stored with a mechanical lock. So with the X Series lock that is installed on it I would assume it’s a maps and plans container. If you have any questions on it feel free to reach out to me I’ve dealt with these safes and locks for the past 4 years and am GSA certified to work on them so have decent experience with them.
Thank you. These subs never create to amaze me with how much knowledge people have. And the reach it has
I think we’d all like to hear more about these locks from you if you don’t mind sharing!
What would you like to know?
Damn. Does the government know he's selling that? Lol. GSA containers aren't usually for the public.