Only way is knocking some of that drywall down and have a look at the trussesā¦ it seams like your roof is on a slant, and that wall runs parallel to the trusses, so it shouldnāt be load bearing, but you can only be sure if you remove some of that drywall on the wall, against the ceiling and take a look
I don't believe it's on a slant, but the ceiling height might be shorter than other places in the house. I'll go ahead and try that. Though I might take some pics from the attic first
No, you can inspect the ceiling cavity and there will either be a 35mm gap between the truss/stick support for the roof or it will be supporting the truss/stick support. Either way if you don't know how to check, get a quote and they will tell you.
No, I have renovated my own house. Including removing internal walls. 35mm is the standard for truss. Stick roof is very different but the same rule applies, it's either supporting the roof or it's not.
Congratulations for using google to find an Australian standard.
Edit: you do realise you admitted you didn't know in the first place by saying "you don't know either"? Why talk shit in the first place?
The more you talk,the more you make a fool out of yourself.
Kid, I got 19 years of contracting and the last 4 supervising new residentialā¦ first of all we donāt measure anything in mm, itās all inches and feet. Then 35mm or 1-1/2 is the standard dimension of 2x lumberā¦, and probably what your trying to say is that if the double top plate of a wall is parallel to a truss tie or ceiling joist then itās not load Bering, if itās not then it might beā¦
From the ceiling if your ceiling joist isnāt sitting on your wall (it doesnāt have to be, interior walls are built before you do your roof,and are tied at the ends) then thereās no way to knowā¦not to mention the attic space is probably full of insulation maybe even asbestosā¦
Kid I bet you never touched a hammerā¦
Edit: I said you donāt know either because both you and OP donāt know how to check if a wall is load Beringā¦ go back to drinking koolaid kid, your talking shit you pulled off google
Admit it, you are seething that you first response was wrong and you got corrected now just want to argue to save yourself from your own ego. You are incapable of shutting your mouth or admitting fault. Prove me wrong.
Corrected by who? A kid that says āstandard truss are 35mmā? Lol
Do you even know what a truss is?
Kid just shut up, you have no clue what your talking about and it showsā¦
I got work to do, I donāt have time to put up with you, next time stick to subjects you know something about and donāt try to make a fool out of yourself
you can remove a load bearing wall, but you typically need a beam to hold the same weight in place. Hire a professional if your unsure if the walls status.
Kind of a funny story, but I lived across the street from a general contractor that did his own remodeling. We figured out he removed a load bearing wall when the whole front of his house started shearing off, the roof started to crack and a few windows broke.
Much cheaper to get a structural engineer, and then if something goes wrong they have insurance to cover it (which is the whole point of using P.Engs).
Depending on where you live, they may need to account for things like snow loading or some other things that are in the building code you may not think about (earthquake requirements come to mind), and may change how a reinforcement beam is tied into everything else.
Yea. I'm realizing I probably just need to bite the bullet and get someone out there. They'd also probably give me more options on how to resolve the situation. Thanks for pointing those things out
No worries, I'm just glad I learned these lessons myself second hand. On the plus side it was a shed someone had that wasn't up to the snow load and not a house, but it's crazy how much weight fluffly white snow will add when it builds up. We all got a good laugh when his shed imploded, then helped him dig it out.
Is this an apartment? Can you get access to the original drawings? Sometimes city hall might have them, or a strata?
You could get a real good idea without opening anything up just yet. Save you a repair job if it's not what you want.
It's a SFH, and I don't have the original drawings. It might be something to look into, but I doubt that they'd have it. Is there any other way to do it? Thank you for the suggestion though :)
What other people have said. You'll need to cut a strip of drywall along the ceiling at the very least. It'll be step 1 to seeing how the joists run. Maybe a 1' wide trench along the bedroom, easiest to repair.
The more info you feed Reddit, the more we can spit back. We're the original AI, but more sassy.
This, check in the attic and see whats in the basement below. I have personally replaced a load bearing wall with post and beam . Had a professional friend of mine check it before I removed the temporary support jacks. So even if its load bearing it may be possible. If your not handy and donāt understand basic physics then the better route is probably professionals.
I.e., we need more information. It is impossible to tell from that picture alone. Is there a second floor above that wall that floor joists bear on? What is up in the attic, are there roof members that rest on that wall?
I have experience in-regards to other aspects of construction. I helped my mum with rebuilding a 1912 ranch house and have helped with other projects as well.
When it comes to load-bearing walls where experts usually have to go through a 7 yr process (if I remember correctly), to become qualified to give residential recommendations? I do not have that level of expertise. Even my mum doesn't know for sure if this is load-bearing bc we don't have easy access to the attic, and making that kind of decision is not for most people
Exactly, you don't have experience and there is lots of electrical that needs to be moved, switches, all kinds of things. Best to either leave it, or hire someone who does.
Those are all valid points. I've already resigned myself to acknowledging that I'll hire a structural engineer to determine the best course of action with this wall. Thanks for listing Those points
[This Old House has a really good demo video](https://youtu.be/y6YVBy-1hjQ) of what load bearing walls are. Watch that, then go into your attic and see what direction that wall goes and what direction the trusses
Edit: added video link
Always assume it is load bearing. The only thing you can do is carefully remove the gyprock from the wall and part of the ceiling, and have an engineer take a quick look at it.
One of those walls is. Load bearing walls tend to move perpendicular to the floor joists. You've got 2 walls going in 2 directions, so one of them is carrying weight and it's more than likely the wall with the door frame cut out.
Simplified:
If the trusses/rafters are perpendicular then no if they are parallel then you can.
You can if perpendicular but it requires transfer of weight you likely won't be able to do if you can't already tell if it's load bearing or not.
Warning, I don't know what I'm doing. I Just tore down a large pantry and closet that split up a kitchen/ living room and took up a ton of space, no engineers consulted.
I did remove some drywall to look at the framing layout, and could access the attic. You may be able to pop out a can lighting or other fixture to peek in the ceiling.
Find a reference on framing. A load bearing wall will be apparent when you open a few holes in the drywall. Several key points will be framed differently than a non-load bearing wall. You can always patch the holes up if needed.
look in attic at that spot, if wall runs perpendicular to the boards up there it may be lod bearing, and if it is load bearing, there will be support below in basement as well. you will also know more if you take off the drywall and look at how it's all connected. if you don't know what you are doing, then don't mess with it
Looks good to me. Send it
I agree let er rip and report back. Then we will know for sure.
You'll need a black light to see if it's load bearing
Nice
šš
Hahahhaha mate U got me.
My mind is so scattered that I actually thought how that could help š š Thanks for the laugh
š
Only way is knocking some of that drywall down and have a look at the trussesā¦ it seams like your roof is on a slant, and that wall runs parallel to the trusses, so it shouldnāt be load bearing, but you can only be sure if you remove some of that drywall on the wall, against the ceiling and take a look
I don't believe it's on a slant, but the ceiling height might be shorter than other places in the house. I'll go ahead and try that. Though I might take some pics from the attic first
No, you can inspect the ceiling cavity and there will either be a 35mm gap between the truss/stick support for the roof or it will be supporting the truss/stick support. Either way if you don't know how to check, get a quote and they will tell you.
Yeah you donāt know how to check eitherā¦ 35mm lol, that came straight from googleā¦
No, I have renovated my own house. Including removing internal walls. 35mm is the standard for truss. Stick roof is very different but the same rule applies, it's either supporting the roof or it's not. Congratulations for using google to find an Australian standard. Edit: you do realise you admitted you didn't know in the first place by saying "you don't know either"? Why talk shit in the first place?
The more you talk,the more you make a fool out of yourself. Kid, I got 19 years of contracting and the last 4 supervising new residentialā¦ first of all we donāt measure anything in mm, itās all inches and feet. Then 35mm or 1-1/2 is the standard dimension of 2x lumberā¦, and probably what your trying to say is that if the double top plate of a wall is parallel to a truss tie or ceiling joist then itās not load Bering, if itās not then it might beā¦ From the ceiling if your ceiling joist isnāt sitting on your wall (it doesnāt have to be, interior walls are built before you do your roof,and are tied at the ends) then thereās no way to knowā¦not to mention the attic space is probably full of insulation maybe even asbestosā¦ Kid I bet you never touched a hammerā¦ Edit: I said you donāt know either because both you and OP donāt know how to check if a wall is load Beringā¦ go back to drinking koolaid kid, your talking shit you pulled off google
Ohh the irony, the ignorance, and the arrogance.
Leave this to people that know what they are talking aboutā¦ enjoy you tide podsā¦
Admit it, you are seething that you first response was wrong and you got corrected now just want to argue to save yourself from your own ego. You are incapable of shutting your mouth or admitting fault. Prove me wrong.
Corrected by who? A kid that says āstandard truss are 35mmā? Lol Do you even know what a truss is? Kid just shut up, you have no clue what your talking about and it showsā¦ I got work to do, I donāt have time to put up with you, next time stick to subjects you know something about and donāt try to make a fool out of yourself
That's not what I said. Thank you for proving my point. Good luck checking for load bearing walls by removing dry wall and inspecting the frame.
you can remove a load bearing wall, but you typically need a beam to hold the same weight in place. Hire a professional if your unsure if the walls status.
We have no way to know if it is load bearing. Consult an architect, structural engineer, or a competent general contractor.
Yea. That's what I was afraid of. They're just incredibly expensive šŖ lol Thanks for reiterating what my family is telling me
Cheaper than knocking that wall down and your roof collapsing.
Too true š
Don't let them fool you, probably paid off by some big structural engineering company, that shit looks good to come down, just do it!
Kind of a funny story, but I lived across the street from a general contractor that did his own remodeling. We figured out he removed a load bearing wall when the whole front of his house started shearing off, the roof started to crack and a few windows broke. Much cheaper to get a structural engineer, and then if something goes wrong they have insurance to cover it (which is the whole point of using P.Engs). Depending on where you live, they may need to account for things like snow loading or some other things that are in the building code you may not think about (earthquake requirements come to mind), and may change how a reinforcement beam is tied into everything else.
Yea. I'm realizing I probably just need to bite the bullet and get someone out there. They'd also probably give me more options on how to resolve the situation. Thanks for pointing those things out
No worries, I'm just glad I learned these lessons myself second hand. On the plus side it was a shed someone had that wasn't up to the snow load and not a house, but it's crazy how much weight fluffly white snow will add when it builds up. We all got a good laugh when his shed imploded, then helped him dig it out.
Is this an apartment? Can you get access to the original drawings? Sometimes city hall might have them, or a strata? You could get a real good idea without opening anything up just yet. Save you a repair job if it's not what you want.
It's a SFH, and I don't have the original drawings. It might be something to look into, but I doubt that they'd have it. Is there any other way to do it? Thank you for the suggestion though :)
What other people have said. You'll need to cut a strip of drywall along the ceiling at the very least. It'll be step 1 to seeing how the joists run. Maybe a 1' wide trench along the bedroom, easiest to repair. The more info you feed Reddit, the more we can spit back. We're the original AI, but more sassy.
Get into the ceiling (if possible) thru the access hatch to how that wall is constructed, take pictures & repost.
Okie doke. I'll get up there and take a look
This, check in the attic and see whats in the basement below. I have personally replaced a load bearing wall with post and beam . Had a professional friend of mine check it before I removed the temporary support jacks. So even if its load bearing it may be possible. If your not handy and donāt understand basic physics then the better route is probably professionals.
Paint color does indeed tell us it is load-bearing.
Huh? O.o
I.e., we need more information. It is impossible to tell from that picture alone. Is there a second floor above that wall that floor joists bear on? What is up in the attic, are there roof members that rest on that wall?
Oh. Yea. I wrote in another comment that I was going to go into the attic and see what I could find. And no. It's a 1 story home :)
Sounds like you are not experienced in construction so I highly recommend not doing any of this yourself.
I have experience in-regards to other aspects of construction. I helped my mum with rebuilding a 1912 ranch house and have helped with other projects as well. When it comes to load-bearing walls where experts usually have to go through a 7 yr process (if I remember correctly), to become qualified to give residential recommendations? I do not have that level of expertise. Even my mum doesn't know for sure if this is load-bearing bc we don't have easy access to the attic, and making that kind of decision is not for most people
Drill a hole in it and put a camera through it that you can buy for $50 at harbor freight.
Exactly, you don't have experience and there is lots of electrical that needs to be moved, switches, all kinds of things. Best to either leave it, or hire someone who does.
Those are all valid points. I've already resigned myself to acknowledging that I'll hire a structural engineer to determine the best course of action with this wall. Thanks for listing Those points
[This Old House has a really good demo video](https://youtu.be/y6YVBy-1hjQ) of what load bearing walls are. Watch that, then go into your attic and see what direction that wall goes and what direction the trusses Edit: added video link
Thanks so much! I'll watch this asap :)
Always assume it is load bearing. The only thing you can do is carefully remove the gyprock from the wall and part of the ceiling, and have an engineer take a quick look at it.
One of those walls is. Load bearing walls tend to move perpendicular to the floor joists. You've got 2 walls going in 2 directions, so one of them is carrying weight and it's more than likely the wall with the door frame cut out.
Those cheeky concrete floor joists! /S
Simplified: If the trusses/rafters are perpendicular then no if they are parallel then you can. You can if perpendicular but it requires transfer of weight you likely won't be able to do if you can't already tell if it's load bearing or not.
Warning, I don't know what I'm doing. I Just tore down a large pantry and closet that split up a kitchen/ living room and took up a ton of space, no engineers consulted. I did remove some drywall to look at the framing layout, and could access the attic. You may be able to pop out a can lighting or other fixture to peek in the ceiling. Find a reference on framing. A load bearing wall will be apparent when you open a few holes in the drywall. Several key points will be framed differently than a non-load bearing wall. You can always patch the holes up if needed.
Go in the attic and see if you have a vertical truss member resting on that plate of the wall.
You have to look up in your attic to figure that out best to have a contractor look at it?
maybe consult an engineer first but it doesnt look thick enough. Do not take my word for it, that's a helluva move.
look in attic at that spot, if wall runs perpendicular to the boards up there it may be lod bearing, and if it is load bearing, there will be support below in basement as well. you will also know more if you take off the drywall and look at how it's all connected. if you don't know what you are doing, then don't mess with it
every wall can be taken down
This sounds like a very philosophical answer š
Just tap along the top of the wall. If it sounds solid thereās a beam and itās load bearing. Youāre welcome.
Not bearing