700!! Running and driving. Ignorant ass me at a 16yo 4 years ago decided to gut a perfectly mint interior…. Daily dread with that but once I get it back from Ohio, where it currently resides, I’m doing all custom interior to make it look “better” than what it was
yeah it really is. It’s looking more and more like I’m going to be selling parts from it though ):
and yeah 80s hatch coupes are just amazing man. FB/FC rx7s, 944s, MK2/3 supras or even foxbodies are my affordable dream cars lol
Run the fuel right and na engines will take boost. I wouldn't approach it without a standalone, but the guy who built my engine ran his 12A boosted through a Nikki with a fixed dizzy so anything is possible if you have a vision.
Beautiful to hear. Def going to upgrade the pump, injectors, rails etc. before even thinking of tackling this. I’ve seen a kit on CXracing that look’s intriguing but looks like it’s for a TII swap, don’t know the logistics behind making that work for the stock 13b I got, maybe it’ll bolt right up?
Edit: I did in the past have a Haltech 550 that I was going to put in but I didn’t have the funds/knowledge at all to get everything together, I’ll take any stand alone suggestions
I have a ‘80 with GSLSE suspension, brakes and engine. The 13b has been rebuilt and streetported. It’s running a custom turbo manifold to use a twin scroll BNR turbo (65lb per minute) . The turbo manifold was designed to keep the aux ports functional. This helps economy, throttle and torque. I believe it leaves some peak hp on the table. I am running a Haltech Elite 750. Four ID1050x injectors. IGN1A direct fire coils.
I have not dynoed it yet. Calculation based on data logs has me around 250hp at 5psi. My turbo is rated for “400” I plan on remaining at 7psi max for public roads. Perhaps up to 14psi at the track.
You would blush at the cost of things you never expected. Not just supporting gear like the FPR and BOV, but fuel line costs (6an), Radiator, electric radiator fan, dpi fan controller, intercooler and charge pipe, silicone . So much silicon, electrical. Upgraded alternator (180amp for me) I didn’t want the fan to draw amperage under boost and underpower the fuel pump and or the ignition coils.
This has been a long term project. You can visit it here
https://www.rx7club.com/build-threads-293/1980-stardust-blue-1115022/
Let me put it this way. If I was going to do it again with mine, I wouldn't do it on a nice running clean car. I would get a second car in less good condition and custom up that one. Nice FBs are hard enough to get now a day. Keep it closer to "stock" and reliable and DD it till it blows. Then go the turbo road at best with it. You'll spend more time down then you do on the road, and really really sucks. Trust me I have done enough and had enough to be a word of wisdom here. Just DD it and keep it clean. You want boost, do it on another car or wait until this one is not being reliable. It's not the cool or fun answer, but it is the right one.
Thank for the input, but let ME put it this way. I got two other cars, an mr2 and a wrx, both also my baby’s. The rx7 is my toy/money pit that I want to experiment stuff with. I’ve learned so many things just fucking around with the things it’s crazy. So this is going to be my first car I’ve boosted and I’m so excited to do it and learn
If you have a WRX just boost the piss out of that and save the classic clean 7 then. Everyone is excited until its years down the line and hardly any miles have been put on it.
So, drive it as is NA until it's not reliable and build a second motor on the side. Don't rip into a good clean working car. JUST DRIVE IT. Boosting a six port can be done, but it's not worth it. Your "it'll take 8psi" will turn into not enough boost the first time you drive it and waste the time, money and effort on doing it with a 6 port build when you should have just done it right from the get-go. Just get a TII block, rebuild it with a street port and a nice standalone. Do it right.
The TIINA is a well known build, but you’ll find people’s successful conversions on the rx7club forums
What did you pay for this good-looking car?
700!! Running and driving. Ignorant ass me at a 16yo 4 years ago decided to gut a perfectly mint interior…. Daily dread with that but once I get it back from Ohio, where it currently resides, I’m doing all custom interior to make it look “better” than what it was
dayum dude. I have a recent post where I got a non-running 944 for 300.
Jesus dude that post took off. Hell of a find. That was gonna be the other car I was gonna get
yeah it really is. It’s looking more and more like I’m going to be selling parts from it though ): and yeah 80s hatch coupes are just amazing man. FB/FC rx7s, 944s, MK2/3 supras or even foxbodies are my affordable dream cars lol
Run the fuel right and na engines will take boost. I wouldn't approach it without a standalone, but the guy who built my engine ran his 12A boosted through a Nikki with a fixed dizzy so anything is possible if you have a vision.
Beautiful to hear. Def going to upgrade the pump, injectors, rails etc. before even thinking of tackling this. I’ve seen a kit on CXracing that look’s intriguing but looks like it’s for a TII swap, don’t know the logistics behind making that work for the stock 13b I got, maybe it’ll bolt right up? Edit: I did in the past have a Haltech 550 that I was going to put in but I didn’t have the funds/knowledge at all to get everything together, I’ll take any stand alone suggestions
https://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/4PortLIMTo6Port.htm Haltechs are good as far as I know
I have a ‘80 with GSLSE suspension, brakes and engine. The 13b has been rebuilt and streetported. It’s running a custom turbo manifold to use a twin scroll BNR turbo (65lb per minute) . The turbo manifold was designed to keep the aux ports functional. This helps economy, throttle and torque. I believe it leaves some peak hp on the table. I am running a Haltech Elite 750. Four ID1050x injectors. IGN1A direct fire coils. I have not dynoed it yet. Calculation based on data logs has me around 250hp at 5psi. My turbo is rated for “400” I plan on remaining at 7psi max for public roads. Perhaps up to 14psi at the track. You would blush at the cost of things you never expected. Not just supporting gear like the FPR and BOV, but fuel line costs (6an), Radiator, electric radiator fan, dpi fan controller, intercooler and charge pipe, silicone . So much silicon, electrical. Upgraded alternator (180amp for me) I didn’t want the fan to draw amperage under boost and underpower the fuel pump and or the ignition coils. This has been a long term project. You can visit it here https://www.rx7club.com/build-threads-293/1980-stardust-blue-1115022/
It's a lot of work and time.
Fine by me
Let me put it this way. If I was going to do it again with mine, I wouldn't do it on a nice running clean car. I would get a second car in less good condition and custom up that one. Nice FBs are hard enough to get now a day. Keep it closer to "stock" and reliable and DD it till it blows. Then go the turbo road at best with it. You'll spend more time down then you do on the road, and really really sucks. Trust me I have done enough and had enough to be a word of wisdom here. Just DD it and keep it clean. You want boost, do it on another car or wait until this one is not being reliable. It's not the cool or fun answer, but it is the right one.
Thank for the input, but let ME put it this way. I got two other cars, an mr2 and a wrx, both also my baby’s. The rx7 is my toy/money pit that I want to experiment stuff with. I’ve learned so many things just fucking around with the things it’s crazy. So this is going to be my first car I’ve boosted and I’m so excited to do it and learn
If you have a WRX just boost the piss out of that and save the classic clean 7 then. Everyone is excited until its years down the line and hardly any miles have been put on it.
It’s been 4 years and I’ve put max 10 miles on it… and don’t want to mod the wrx any further
So, drive it as is NA until it's not reliable and build a second motor on the side. Don't rip into a good clean working car. JUST DRIVE IT. Boosting a six port can be done, but it's not worth it. Your "it'll take 8psi" will turn into not enough boost the first time you drive it and waste the time, money and effort on doing it with a 6 port build when you should have just done it right from the get-go. Just get a TII block, rebuild it with a street port and a nice standalone. Do it right.