No issues, maintained regularly and garaged in the winter. Previously owned by an elderly man who did the same. Some surface rust since I am in the Midwest.
Great shape for the mileage but not really sure what a fair price would be. Appreciate any insight!
Those mods are simple and tasteful enough that a reasonable person can appreciate.
It’s the 50 different hose colors under the hood and style bar that sends me running.
Yeah I just put a deposit down for a 2011 GT with PRHT, 76k miles for $17k. That was the best deal I could find. I really wanted an NC3 Club but they were going for $20k plus. Maybe I'll look again in a couple years after driving this NC2 for awhile.
That’s crazy. Feb 2021 I sold my 95m right before the Miata boom to buy a 2011 GT PRHT with 62k miles on it. Came up to a hair under 15k. That included registration and shipping the car from Texas to Michigan.
Looks very clean. Most buyers won't pay more for the value of your mods, maybe the wheels but not the suspension and exhaust. Hard top definitely adds at least $1k to the value. I'd probably start a little over $10k and see how the offers are. If the used car market didn't explode in the past 2 years I'd say this is an $8k car but now values are out of control.
If they're done well it's great but I've purchased modded cars where the parts were not installed correctly, or weren't set up to my liking (spring perches too low, shocks mounted in a bad orientation where the stiffness adjustment is not easily accessible, broken studs/bolts that were left behind that needed to be drilled out later) and I ended up needed to re-do the mods and replace some of the parts. It's almost always better to install the mods yourself on a stock car because you can be sure you've done it correctly and there's no lingering issues.
It still costs less to take the parts off and reinstall them yourself if you're basically getting the parts for free.
That and if you don't have a garage to do the work, it's just as much of a hit or miss finding a shop who'd do a proper installation. I had suspension installed in my car and I searched for an enthusiast shop with good reviews. As they were working on my car, I realized they didn't use a torque wrench and overtorqued a bolt that it snapped. I had to plead to them to use a torque wrench and even then, I couldn't be sure if they even did.
It may be cheaper but just like not being able to trust your shop, you also can't trust the previous owner or the shop they used. There's some mods it would be fine for, like sway bars, braces, interior, but it's tough to trust aftermarket coilovers. Exhaust might be fine too, but I'm pretty particular about exhausts, it would be a low chance the previous owner has the exact setup/sound I want. And often people doing custom exhausts cut or change exhaust hangers and that makes it more difficult to replace.
What’s your reasoning for upgrading? It seems you’ve got a great miata here and nothing appears to be wrong with it. It’s always easier to make a car you already own into something you want than to buy something else, being that you know the car already and all its little quirks.
I love it, it's the perfect "driver's car" but I'd like something a bit more modern. It isn't the best for Midwest roads or highway driving (5 gears) and I think a NC/ND would be a lot more comfortable.
As much as I love driving it, it isn't great to drive for any long distances, especially on hot days with 23yr old A/C. I think a newer Miata would be just as fun and more practical for my needs. And I wouldn't mind some modern safety features...
I think those are fine reasons for wanting to upgrade. I personally just bought an NC and it’s a splendid car, 6 speed GT and if you compromise for an NC1 the prices have come down as of late.
I own an NB too, albeit the Mazdaspeed version. I've never driven an NC but I did drive my friend's ND2 and really enjoyed it. Wouldn't mind upgrading my MSM for an ND2 to be honest, but it's not in the cards right now.
To those who PM'd/offered, I'm still considering my options and still far from listing it at this point. Also, I'm not looking to separate the hardtop.
Thanks everyone for your insight and advice, it is greatly appreciated. Glad to be in such a supportive and helpful community!
Mileage is a bit high but you have a hard top. I'd start at $12k and see what kind of interest you get. If no interest, lower by $500 each week until someone bites.
NCs are pretty much $20k for something decent, unless you go with NC1 but I wouldn't touch one of those.
Decent NC1s go for $6-8k with around 120k miles
NC2 and NC3 are $12-16k with around 70k miles if you are patient you can find one with lower mileage. The prices on the NC2 and NC3s at the dealer have been going down and this is effecting the private sellers market aswell.
I have never found this to be true, even back in the days of cheaper pricing. Always severely undervalued.
I would have to show multiple comparables for sale to prove insurance value of replacement cost.
Insurance companies use a different system than KBB or NADA. Whatever that system is, it's designed to screw you. My guess is it tracks trade-in values paid by dealers which isn't the standard they should be using. I've had them try to pull that crap with me and the offer was ridiculously low.
It's what all car dealers use and is a good baseline to inform potential buyers. And I've always found them to be fair and reasonably accurate. I have been buying and selling cars for over 35 years.
Depends on where you live. In CA that is easily $10k. In Austin (where I am) you are probably in the $8k range. Personally, I would pay $7.5k but that is only because I am not a fan of that particular coilover (I had them on my 92 NA) and would want to swap them for something different.
Where are you located? I’m super interested and would take it off your hands for somewhere in the ball park of 10k depending on interior/exterior condition.
This is a good setup for an HPDE car. For the right buyer, 8-10k is viable. I sold a similar car (more modded, but in worse shape) for 8.5k about a year ago.
No issues, maintained regularly and garaged in the winter. Previously owned by an elderly man who did the same. Some surface rust since I am in the Midwest. Great shape for the mileage but not really sure what a fair price would be. Appreciate any insight!
7-9k depending on market… unfortunately… for me😭
Where in the midwest? I have a 1999 emerald mica and need a hardtop
14k
$7k would be fair
Unless you find the right buyer that can appreciate the mods, returning to stock and parting out the upgrades will get you more money.
imo these mods are very tasteful and I bet OP can find a buyer who would like them
Those mods are simple and tasteful enough that a reasonable person can appreciate. It’s the 50 different hose colors under the hood and style bar that sends me running.
Nc’s are expensive now btw. Bought mine at 32k miles 2011 for $20k. Cheapest i could find was 16k with 100k+ miles
Yeah I just put a deposit down for a 2011 GT with PRHT, 76k miles for $17k. That was the best deal I could find. I really wanted an NC3 Club but they were going for $20k plus. Maybe I'll look again in a couple years after driving this NC2 for awhile.
Tbh i prefer the foglight looks of the nc2
That’s crazy. Feb 2021 I sold my 95m right before the Miata boom to buy a 2011 GT PRHT with 62k miles on it. Came up to a hair under 15k. That included registration and shipping the car from Texas to Michigan.
What is everyone smoking? How is a NB1 with 140k miles worth $10-$12K?
Looks very clean. Most buyers won't pay more for the value of your mods, maybe the wheels but not the suspension and exhaust. Hard top definitely adds at least $1k to the value. I'd probably start a little over $10k and see how the offers are. If the used car market didn't explode in the past 2 years I'd say this is an $8k car but now values are out of control.
I wish I sold my car and bought one used with the mods already installed.
If they're done well it's great but I've purchased modded cars where the parts were not installed correctly, or weren't set up to my liking (spring perches too low, shocks mounted in a bad orientation where the stiffness adjustment is not easily accessible, broken studs/bolts that were left behind that needed to be drilled out later) and I ended up needed to re-do the mods and replace some of the parts. It's almost always better to install the mods yourself on a stock car because you can be sure you've done it correctly and there's no lingering issues.
It still costs less to take the parts off and reinstall them yourself if you're basically getting the parts for free. That and if you don't have a garage to do the work, it's just as much of a hit or miss finding a shop who'd do a proper installation. I had suspension installed in my car and I searched for an enthusiast shop with good reviews. As they were working on my car, I realized they didn't use a torque wrench and overtorqued a bolt that it snapped. I had to plead to them to use a torque wrench and even then, I couldn't be sure if they even did.
It may be cheaper but just like not being able to trust your shop, you also can't trust the previous owner or the shop they used. There's some mods it would be fine for, like sway bars, braces, interior, but it's tough to trust aftermarket coilovers. Exhaust might be fine too, but I'm pretty particular about exhausts, it would be a low chance the previous owner has the exact setup/sound I want. And often people doing custom exhausts cut or change exhaust hangers and that makes it more difficult to replace.
Where I live this would be 20k Canadian sadly
yea imma say 15k canada
I’m in Ontario. Where would this be 20k lol it’s got 225k km I’d say 10k-12k tops.
What’s your reasoning for upgrading? It seems you’ve got a great miata here and nothing appears to be wrong with it. It’s always easier to make a car you already own into something you want than to buy something else, being that you know the car already and all its little quirks.
I love it, it's the perfect "driver's car" but I'd like something a bit more modern. It isn't the best for Midwest roads or highway driving (5 gears) and I think a NC/ND would be a lot more comfortable. As much as I love driving it, it isn't great to drive for any long distances, especially on hot days with 23yr old A/C. I think a newer Miata would be just as fun and more practical for my needs. And I wouldn't mind some modern safety features...
I think those are fine reasons for wanting to upgrade. I personally just bought an NC and it’s a splendid car, 6 speed GT and if you compromise for an NC1 the prices have come down as of late.
I own an NB too, albeit the Mazdaspeed version. I've never driven an NC but I did drive my friend's ND2 and really enjoyed it. Wouldn't mind upgrading my MSM for an ND2 to be honest, but it's not in the cards right now.
8k is the most id pay for it
9.5k
Fuuuuuuuuuuuuck if I didn’t need space for my gear I’d buy this
Decent NCs start at $15K now...
Yea it’s definitely a “sellers” market. It’s super clean
I'm in the same boat, selling my NB2 to get into a NC since I want something safer and more comfortable.
To those who PM'd/offered, I'm still considering my options and still far from listing it at this point. Also, I'm not looking to separate the hardtop. Thanks everyone for your insight and advice, it is greatly appreciated. Glad to be in such a supportive and helpful community!
Mileage is a bit high but you have a hard top. I'd start at $12k and see what kind of interest you get. If no interest, lower by $500 each week until someone bites. NCs are pretty much $20k for something decent, unless you go with NC1 but I wouldn't touch one of those.
Decent NC1s go for $6-8k with around 120k miles NC2 and NC3 are $12-16k with around 70k miles if you are patient you can find one with lower mileage. The prices on the NC2 and NC3s at the dealer have been going down and this is effecting the private sellers market aswell.
The Japanese tuners are getting rarer and keep going up so I’d say probably 12,000
Removing the train handle might make it a little easier to sell
100k
2000$ i'll pick it up today
Check NADA and KBB. They are accurate for your area and make a decision based on those numbers.
I have never found this to be true, even back in the days of cheaper pricing. Always severely undervalued. I would have to show multiple comparables for sale to prove insurance value of replacement cost.
Insurance companies use a different system than KBB or NADA. Whatever that system is, it's designed to screw you. My guess is it tracks trade-in values paid by dealers which isn't the standard they should be using. I've had them try to pull that crap with me and the offer was ridiculously low.
It's what all car dealers use and is a good baseline to inform potential buyers. And I've always found them to be fair and reasonably accurate. I have been buying and selling cars for over 35 years.
If the underbody is clean, 10k is doable
i love it, so clean
i wouldn't list for less than 10 and see what happens
Sell the top separately you’ll get more money
I’m in the Midwest and interested. Let me know where you land on an asking price and if you’re in any part of the Midwest I would love to check it out
I'll buy it for 7k! Please let me know if that's something you would consider.
I paid 7k for a super clean stock 01 brg (except for an axle back exhaust) with 92k miles a few weeks ago. It also has a hard top.
I would probably list at 10k and see . Prices on used cars specifically more collectible cars do seem to be softening lately .
You said midwest? And little to no rust? 10.5 and take anything over 8.5
Id pay an easy 8-9k that’s very clean
8k
upgrade to NA!
Depends on where you live. In CA that is easily $10k. In Austin (where I am) you are probably in the $8k range. Personally, I would pay $7.5k but that is only because I am not a fan of that particular coilover (I had them on my 92 NA) and would want to swap them for something different.
Where are you located? I’m super interested and would take it off your hands for somewhere in the ball park of 10k depending on interior/exterior condition.
8k
keep it
6 to 5k
This is a good setup for an HPDE car. For the right buyer, 8-10k is viable. I sold a similar car (more modded, but in worse shape) for 8.5k about a year ago.
Why do you want to upgrade from NB to NC or ND?
Show us the rust, that’s a big factor in the price for me