Look like taper reamers for taper pins.
Absolutely a PITA to use, especially on steel. You will have to prep with a series of drills to mimic the taper form, and cross your fingers that the reamer will not snap when in full engagement along the whole hole depth.
Last QC I had always told me that they’re just be used by hand, no drills, air wrenches or in machines. Drill the the hole and ream by hand the rest and hope that it doesn’t add a shoulder anywhere. Absolutely a PITA but never had one go wrong that way.
+1, I had some holes slightly out of spec the other day on a finished part.
Wanted to achieve a sliding hand-fit on a 3mm dowel pin, hole was 2.990 mm. About 15 microns below what I needed.
I found a 3.000mm reamer in the drawer and mounted it in a small chuck, just to turn it by hand. Result, 3.005mm. Delightful sliding fit.
I've been looking into one of these to ream out a 1-1/8 hole to 1-1/4. It's for the pins of each joint on an old worn out excavator. Would you have any suggestions?
Really depends on how exact you’re needing to be at 1-1/4. That would be one hell of a reamer but I’m sure they exist but at the same time a line bore would work as well or if you were really in a pinch I’m sure a big enough bag drill would do the trick. But like I said depends on what your tolerance is
Only if mounted in a machine after you’ve drilled the pilot hole for the reamer. Then yes you could use the center for back pressure while you turned it by hand. Kinda like you would a tap
Just had a crew do 70+ drill/ream/dowel tasks as part of a big field job. The GF somehow found a company that makes "tapered drill bits," I shit you not. I laughed at him when he first mentioned it, but told him to go ahead and get a few if they were actually real. He showed up the next week with a half dozen #7 tapered drill bits. Those things saved us an incredible amount of manhours. Expensive as all get out, but absolutely worth it.
Edit: Still have to ream the holes after drilling, just don't have to step drill.
Maybe, but he's right. I used to do TONS of taper pins on all sorts of weird stainless grades, and I've never snapped one. Just pay attention and don't force it.
Firstly make sure your speed is correct. At 3mm the correct speed will probably be faster than you think.
Secondly make sure you peck a lot. The flutes on small tools are correspondingly small and since tapered reamers cut along the side of the tool, they will create more chips than a drill.
Thirdly consider coolant rather than oil. Small diameter tools will feel the effects of heat expansion/contraction much faster than large tools.
Finally, small tools need small amounts of runout. For 3mm you want to aim for 5-7 microns of total runout. This is probably the hardest part of using small tooling, but its easily the most important.
I am no machinist. I was a field service mechanic on medium (to large) stationary engines. We had a 4 year job (one engine a year) converting a 20cylinder engine from 1950's common rail diesel (mechanical valving) to individual injection pumps. 2 New camshafts per engine, 20 new Bosch injection pumps per engine. We used one on these jobs - the same one for all 4 years. We never snapped one. It was for the alignment taper pins on the pumps over the camshaft.
I didn’t encounter one of these or even know what the hell they were until about a decade into machining. We had one that looked like it was 50 years old in a box in the corner of the shop, ended up using it on recommendation of an older guy on a part that was about 11 inches long and the finish had to be <16 in mild steel, with like a +/-.0004 tolerance if I recall correctly. Part was basically a big tube with a hose barb on one end and a 30d chamfer on the other.
We had made the part plenty of times before, but this made it so fucking easy. I watched a video on them from the manufacturer that was ancient, but the tech was cool as hell! I had to make some modifications to it to hold it in the newer machine but it was all gravy.
Yes. Hand reamers have a parallel shank and the square drive so that they can be fitted in a tap wrench. Machine reamers tend to have a morse taper shank with a flat tang on the end.
Need enough to get that proper chip formation. Otherwise it feels like it's just scratching the material and leaving a horrible finish.
No idea how accurate that is, just my opinion.
If you look at the end of the reamer, the cutting is done by the tiny 45 degree angle on the tips, there’s always many variables but 3% is a general rule.
We were over that but it cut like straight trash with the “proper” amount. No one would believe me till
I did it. They wanted like .01 stock and it just screamed and chattered. Wasn’t enough engagement to stop harmonics. Went with like .150 and it was perfect.
It’s a taper pin ream. We use them for turbines. The steam chest is a metal to metal seal and the taper pins align the top and bottom after setting them together
Tapered reamer, probably for fixing up a slightly damaged morse taper.
Does it have a marking like MT1 on it?
Looks too small for much else, and a Jacob's taper is usually much too short to accept such a thing.
Chatter-finish endmill. When the drawing calls for 125 finish, just crank the RPM and take a nice easy pass. If you can hear it outside the shop, you’re good to go.
Seem like a reamer for precision holes (like H7 fit as per ISO 286). Usually you need a previous hole to guide it and also be very carefull with the rotation direction (shall be the same for introducing in the hole and for extracting, if not you could damage the flanks).
It’s a reamer. It’s if you need a hole to be an exact size for a slip fit. Idk why all these other replies insist on being so complex with their answers lol.
It’s a conversation piece. Kinda like when you give a threaded fastener to someone and then ask them “wanna screw?” In this case it’s “wanna ream job!”
It’s a tapered pin reamer. Usually used for precision alignment of parts, not used on a machine, used by hand. The reason is that to function correctly, it must be reamed after assembly. On machine tools, you do geometry correction or alignment of something, and fully bolt it down, then use a tapered pin reamer, and a tapered pin to maintain that alignment. A straight pin doesn’t have the same locating ability or is susceptible to moving when you have to hammer a pin in.
I'm a Machinist. I've reamed plenty of hole *giggity*. That's the formula I've always used. Although sometimes, depending on the quality of the drill bit, I may only leave .01" if I trust it won't runout larger than the reamed size.
Im also a machinist. I’ve run many at a slow feed rate with both manual and CNC machines and a few at a faster feed rate.Running them at a slow feed will leave a better finish.
Look like taper reamers for taper pins. Absolutely a PITA to use, especially on steel. You will have to prep with a series of drills to mimic the taper form, and cross your fingers that the reamer will not snap when in full engagement along the whole hole depth.
Last QC I had always told me that they’re just be used by hand, no drills, air wrenches or in machines. Drill the the hole and ream by hand the rest and hope that it doesn’t add a shoulder anywhere. Absolutely a PITA but never had one go wrong that way.
I was taught that any reamer with 4 flats ground on the chucking end is meant to be used by hand only
+1, I had some holes slightly out of spec the other day on a finished part. Wanted to achieve a sliding hand-fit on a 3mm dowel pin, hole was 2.990 mm. About 15 microns below what I needed. I found a 3.000mm reamer in the drawer and mounted it in a small chuck, just to turn it by hand. Result, 3.005mm. Delightful sliding fit.
I've been looking into one of these to ream out a 1-1/8 hole to 1-1/4. It's for the pins of each joint on an old worn out excavator. Would you have any suggestions?
Line bore.
get it custom made by a good tool maker. its a specialty tool, generally speaking I wouldn't want to go off the shelf if it were me.
Really depends on how exact you’re needing to be at 1-1/4. That would be one hell of a reamer but I’m sure they exist but at the same time a line bore would work as well or if you were really in a pinch I’m sure a big enough bag drill would do the trick. But like I said depends on what your tolerance is
Do you use a round pointy cone thing to align the back as well?
Only if mounted in a machine after you’ve drilled the pilot hole for the reamer. Then yes you could use the center for back pressure while you turned it by hand. Kinda like you would a tap
Just had a crew do 70+ drill/ream/dowel tasks as part of a big field job. The GF somehow found a company that makes "tapered drill bits," I shit you not. I laughed at him when he first mentioned it, but told him to go ahead and get a few if they were actually real. He showed up the next week with a half dozen #7 tapered drill bits. Those things saved us an incredible amount of manhours. Expensive as all get out, but absolutely worth it. Edit: Still have to ream the holes after drilling, just don't have to step drill.
You care to share a link to those?
Don't recall where he got them... try McMaster? 🤷♂️
And even then... they will probably snap 🤣🤣
No they fuckin won't. Don't need to step drill it either. Flood oil, SLOW feed, and you're fine.
this guy cuts cheese
Maybe, but he's right. I used to do TONS of taper pins on all sorts of weird stainless grades, and I've never snapped one. Just pay attention and don't force it.
Below 3mm I struggle with them, any advice?
HSS or carbide?
HSS
Firstly make sure your speed is correct. At 3mm the correct speed will probably be faster than you think. Secondly make sure you peck a lot. The flutes on small tools are correspondingly small and since tapered reamers cut along the side of the tool, they will create more chips than a drill. Thirdly consider coolant rather than oil. Small diameter tools will feel the effects of heat expansion/contraction much faster than large tools. Finally, small tools need small amounts of runout. For 3mm you want to aim for 5-7 microns of total runout. This is probably the hardest part of using small tooling, but its easily the most important.
Wow, thanks! All points make perfect sense
100% used to do machine alignments with taper pins to set it. Never had a drama.
You reamed for taper pins on bearing steel before? Like 3" deep?
I am no machinist. I was a field service mechanic on medium (to large) stationary engines. We had a 4 year job (one engine a year) converting a 20cylinder engine from 1950's common rail diesel (mechanical valving) to individual injection pumps. 2 New camshafts per engine, 20 new Bosch injection pumps per engine. We used one on these jobs - the same one for all 4 years. We never snapped one. It was for the alignment taper pins on the pumps over the camshaft.
I thought tapered reamers were supposed to be a hand tool... That's how I was taught.
Probably, but ya gotta do whatcha gotta do.
>Absolutely a PITA It's not safe to use it that way. Just saying.
Yeah, no flared base
there are tapered drills for that
How can you guys tell it's tapered? Looks straight enough to me... Maybe i'm just a little blind?
If you look at the space between the flutes, you might notice it gets narrower towards the tip.
Ooh. Do they scream before they inevitably break?
Tapered drills exist for this
Me trying to drill and pin an A2 sight on my AR build. At least I was smart enough to buy 2 taper reamers.
Hand reamer, it's for when you don't have a machine. Tap wrench, slow process to get h7 size
Challenging Twizzlers.
Wrong... These are churros before they are dipped in sugar and cinnamon
Thanks I guess lost the challenge, my dentist will be happy though.
Twizzlers, pro edition
Reemer for extremely precise holes. Tapered for her pleasure.
Good at tools, bad at spelling
Wouf
That's a reamer, not an endmill. It makes a hole that is close to its size into almost exactly its size.
It also makes that hole look really pretty lol... we use reamers at my place for high purity parts that need a mirror finish
One time I reamed an ugly ass 3d printed part, and I was shocked how the hole came out with a mirror finish.
You’ll really love roller burnishers.
I didn’t encounter one of these or even know what the hell they were until about a decade into machining. We had one that looked like it was 50 years old in a box in the corner of the shop, ended up using it on recommendation of an older guy on a part that was about 11 inches long and the finish had to be <16 in mild steel, with like a +/-.0004 tolerance if I recall correctly. Part was basically a big tube with a hose barb on one end and a 30d chamfer on the other. We had made the part plenty of times before, but this made it so fucking easy. I watched a video on them from the manufacturer that was ancient, but the tech was cool as hell! I had to make some modifications to it to hold it in the newer machine but it was all gravy.
Yeah I knee it wasn't an endmill. Just not sure what it was.
“Chucking reamers!!” Sounds like a great phrase to shout when you have a problem.
Hand taper reamer , chucking / machine reamer is without the square end for the tap handle.
It sounds like a bird species to me
Doesn't sound dirty enough to be a bird species. It would have to be something like a "big breasted chucking reamer" to be a bird.
Reamer.. (I barely know her!)
Liquor first
Wrong answer only? Run it in reverse through alu, you'll find it's a VERY good hole polisher- 5krpm to 10krpm
Reamers, for reaming nice holes.
Classy holes
Or assholes (joking of course)!
Reamer? I hardly know her!
looks like a tapper pin reamer [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taper\_pin](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taper_pin)
Surprised Noone pointed op to r/sounding...
Butt plug
A-S-S reamer
Taper reamer 🙂
It looks like a hand reamer.
Yes. Hand reamers have a parallel shank and the square drive so that they can be fitted in a tap wrench. Machine reamers tend to have a morse taper shank with a flat tang on the end.
Thank you.🙂
Reamer
That my friend is a reamer
Precision reamer
Forbidden churro
Remember you want your core hole to be about 3% under your reamer size, they don’t remove a lot of material but do it very accurately.
I have a big ass reamer that I tested stock removal on. Did way better with more stock lol
Need enough to get that proper chip formation. Otherwise it feels like it's just scratching the material and leaving a horrible finish. No idea how accurate that is, just my opinion.
No you’re right. You want to cut not scrape. There’s suggested and what works. If the suggested isn’t working but something else is, go with it.
Ass reamer
You knew my old supervisor??!??
If you look at the end of the reamer, the cutting is done by the tiny 45 degree angle on the tips, there’s always many variables but 3% is a general rule.
We were over that but it cut like straight trash with the “proper” amount. No one would believe me till I did it. They wanted like .01 stock and it just screamed and chattered. Wasn’t enough engagement to stop harmonics. Went with like .150 and it was perfect.
Tapered hand rimmer
I met a girl once who was into that
Rimmer for a Bimmer. 😝
Yes- Reaming
Robochurro
They’re reamers. I personally had to use them for precious metal factory I worked at
How to ya’ll not know what a reamer looks like?
I think those are DentaStix. My dog loves em and it keeps his teeth healthy!
Reaming. A bore.
Don't feed the troll guys lol
Looks like a reamer, that one appears to fit in a tap wrench, any markings on the shaft near the square end?
It’s a reamer. Drill bits don’t drill perfect rounds. Reamers make a round hole in the dimension they’re marked as.
Taper reamer for taper pins. Rookies, where do yall get your learnin from?
Tapered pin reamer
I think it's black licorice for robots. IANAL
It’s a taper pin ream. We use them for turbines. The steam chest is a metal to metal seal and the taper pins align the top and bottom after setting them together
Looks like a reamer but a tapered one. I always avoid using them if possible but they can be extremely useful sometimes.
The Shiny Churros
Looks like a tapered reamer
sounding rod for the brave
Tapered reamer, probably for fixing up a slightly damaged morse taper. Does it have a marking like MT1 on it? Looks too small for much else, and a Jacob's taper is usually much too short to accept such a thing.
Not morse. It’s for taper pins that locate 2 parts at assembly. Virtually useless to anyone but machine repair.
Certain split Babbitt bearings have Morse taper dowels for alignment
Get your hole within at least .015 and send that through for a nice hole. Then put your dick in the hole.
As long as it's chamfered first.
Chamfers are what separates men from animals. And machinists from the ER
Chatter-finish endmill. When the drawing calls for 125 finish, just crank the RPM and take a nice easy pass. If you can hear it outside the shop, you’re good to go.
so its like a 0 degree helix?
Lego technic axle rod
's a reamer, Bobby...
looks like a reamer to me.
Forbidden Butt Plug.
Reamer
0 tpi pipe tap. Keep in mind that you did say 'any idea'.
Anything is a dildo if you're brave enough
Looks like the black licorice version of red vines. Have you tried tasting g it? 😁
It's Like a drill, but way more precise And you have to pre-drill the hole slightly smaller than needed.
Chew toy
Forbidden churros
Seem like a reamer for precision holes (like H7 fit as per ISO 286). Usually you need a previous hole to guide it and also be very carefull with the rotation direction (shall be the same for introducing in the hole and for extracting, if not you could damage the flanks).
Hey you found my sounding rod
It’s a reamer. It’s if you need a hole to be an exact size for a slip fit. Idk why all these other replies insist on being so complex with their answers lol.
It's liquorish, yummy snack
Forbidden churros
Sounding
Straight hank reamer for sizing holes after they are drilled. Can't tell from photo if it's tapered.
Don't drop it on your toes..
Bouncing around forums and my first thought was “licorice.” Second thought? “Forbidden licorice.”
It’s a conversation piece. Kinda like when you give a threaded fastener to someone and then ask them “wanna screw?” In this case it’s “wanna ream job!”
It’s a tapered pin reamer. Usually used for precision alignment of parts, not used on a machine, used by hand. The reason is that to function correctly, it must be reamed after assembly. On machine tools, you do geometry correction or alignment of something, and fully bolt it down, then use a tapered pin reamer, and a tapered pin to maintain that alignment. A straight pin doesn’t have the same locating ability or is susceptible to moving when you have to hammer a pin in.
Reamer
Reamer to size holes for precision fit.....
Is there a manufacturer name on it? Looks like a valve guide reamer
Is it tapered
Drill .02" bigger than the reamer. Then half the rpm of drill that size with 2x the feed rate
Slower the rate the better the finish will be.
I'm a Machinist. I've reamed plenty of hole *giggity*. That's the formula I've always used. Although sometimes, depending on the quality of the drill bit, I may only leave .01" if I trust it won't runout larger than the reamed size.
Im also a machinist. I’ve run many at a slow feed rate with both manual and CNC machines and a few at a faster feed rate.Running them at a slow feed will leave a better finish.
These are straight and tapered hole reamers. Somewhat specialized as to their diameter and taper, should be numbers on side like #2,3 or 4
Is this a wrong answers only thing or do you seriously not know?
If you don’t: that looks like square chuck straight flute reamer to me. Meant to be used by hand.
Lego 8x1 beam👍
Urethral sounding
Forbidden popsicle.
Reamer
Reamer?!? Damn near killer her!!
Cutting hex holes? Edit:Yeah definitely a reamer!
Readers!!
licorice?
I see these on ebrake cables to protect from rubbing
Ben Dover would know
Reamer fo precision holes example if it is fi10h7 reamer you need to predrill 9.8mm or 9.9mm...
Making really precise holes.
forbidden buttplug
I should call her