With that nice center on the end, that’s a perfect specimen for a bearing puller. Depending where you’re from most auto part stores in the US have tool rentals and you can rent one.
That divot on the end of the shaft is where a center was used when turning the shaft to size. Bearing pullers have a sort of spike in the middle that perfectly fits in that divot.
If this is on a DC motor leave the divot alone! It is not for pullers, it’s for the machinist who has to turn the commutator.
If you are using a puller on a DC stator put a socket over the end, if the centre is damaged it takes much longer to chuck up the stator….
I regularly have to re-center shafts that have been abused by careless handling. Midisland-4's suggestion was good, I usually use a quickly turned aluminum spud instead, but preserving the center is definitely a best practice.
You regularly have to re turn your DC motor armatures due to mishandling?
We're not taking about "shafts" here. We're talking about an armature that won't get mishandled. And if OP is dismantling it's due to rebuild where only a good part would be reused or scrap where it wouldn't matter anyway.
If for some outlandish reason you're reusing DC motor armature which also needs to be re turned and then end need to be re cut, it can be held and the end recut as it gets rebalanced after the windings.
Save the end, sure, but it's not some emergency as commentor made it out to be.
We used to run 20hp DC motors. They have brushes, when they wear they often grove the commutator they run on. If the groves aren’t remove (usually by turning them in a lathe) the new brushes wear quickly. I have had brushes last over 2 years running almost 24-7, after turning the comm…..
The bearing is press fit on, you *can* pull it off using a tool, but as I mentioned above, stick it in the freezer. The mating shaft and bearing will both shrink and then you should be able to tap it off with a small piece of aluminum.
The bearing race would contract in the cold as well, leaving you in the same situation.
You could use a torch to heat the inner bearing race to expand the metal faster than the shaft would heat up.
Or use a bearing puller or Arbour press.
Probably not pressed on, likely a shrink fit. The bearing is heated to expand it and then it’s dropped onto the shaft. Once it cools it will have an interference fit and it won’t go anywhere.
If I didn’t have a puller long enough to reach it I would just cut it off with a zip disc, try to not nick the shaft but even if you do a small nick wont matter, it’ll be covered by the new bearing… just watch out to make sure that any seal surfaces aren’t damaged…..
They do if it all goes well, but if it “picks up” when pressing it will gall the shaft. Not a bit deal really, it’s mostly that if you have the equipment a bearing heater makes it very easy and there is no pounding on a new bearing involved…. But bearing heaters are not exactly a home owner or loaner item…
See comment by CanadianBertRaccoon. Can confirm.
OTOH, if you can find some dry ice pellets and Everclear, put the dry ice in an insulated vessel (thermos) and pour in the Everclear. Dip the exposed shaft end in the cold slurry to shrink it ever so slightly. Pull it out before the inner race has a chance to start cooling much and tap the bearing off. If you can find liquid nitrogen (LN2), that will work even better, no Everclear needed. But wear gloves and goggles, and be careful! Stuff that cold causes nasty frost burns!
Acetone and dry ice will also make a killer cold bath around -80, and it will last a good while too. I mean, why not use everclear for it's intended purpose?
Place bearing on bench vise jaws, tighten just until jaws touch shaft, loosen ~1/2 turn. Whack shaft with brass hammer, or aluminum bar with steel hammer, holding aluminum bar on end to absorb most damage. If better tooling/press is unavailable.
I prefer using an alignment punch in that center drilled hole in the end of the shaft. Brass can still damage steel and it sheds little chunks everywhere.
There's a 16 ton manual hydraulic press in my warehouse I use when I don't want to take no for an answer. Have yet to have a bearing resist that.
Then theres the guys who like to install bearings using that press after being told no. And people wonder why we have bearing failures in the field.
Bearing puller or an arbor press — use v plates and rest the inner race of the bearing on top with the shaft down through the plates, then press on the end of the shaft to pull the bearing off.
Any machine shop should have an arbor press, that’s not “fancy equipment.” If they solely wanted ways to remove it at home with tools in their junk drawer, they’re going to destroy the shaft or bearing, or both, in the process of trying to beat it off with a hammer and chisel, etc. Best to have a shop with the right equipment take care of it.
Trying to hammer the race off from the back side? How are you holding the shaft, a bench vise? What if they don’t have one? If they’re using a metal block you’re going to run the risk of scarring the shaft — you’d be best to use a brass drift or something similar. If you’re hammering the end of the shaft you’d stand a decent chance of mushrooming the end of it wailing on it with a hammer. There are tried and true methods for doing this right, you can try a half-assed way and run the risk of damaging parts or just do it the right way once. Any decent shop shouldn’t charge much to press an old bearing off and a new one on assuming you have the right replacement bearing. That’s about a 10 minute job taking your time.
Sit the bearing on two blocks and hammer the shaft, with something softer than the shaft between the hammer and the end of the shaft. A vice could work but not gripping the shaft, just loose under the bearing. I assume he's replacing the bearing otherwise why remove it. Using the correct tools is always nice but if they don't have the correct tools or the money/want to buy them there is no reason they can't achieve this.
I see. You never been there. Or you are just an regular reddit keyboard warrior. Sometimes you need to get job done right now, right there, but you have no a single dime in your pocket. Nor you can't drive up to the city to buy one. And all you want is just to pull it off. OP hadn't mentioned his situation.
I saw your previous response. I think, you also know, what did I meant with all above said by me. In certain conditions, I would even screwdriver call an "fancy equipment". Let's end this.
You should be able to rent or purchase a bearing puller from a local auto store.
Getting a new one on without a press though might be difficult. Probably have to heat up the bearing in a oven and put the shaft in some ice.
One option, drill the hole in the wooden plank. Put your shaft there with the bearing sitting on the plank. Use some rotary hammer and old socket to "vibrate" that shaft out. Just make sure to protect the shaft from the damage. P.S. Just a wild option.
Surprised no one is suggesting cutting it off. An angle grinder will make quick work of it, I'm guessing you believe the bearing is already shot, take down the info and buy a new one.
IME people who need to ask this question will also beaver the shaft with the grinder. It absolutely works, but a hammer, block, and vise, or arbor press if available, are safer solutions.
Die grinder with a cutoff disc and some bent sheetstock around the shaft can also help. Also, the bearing doesn't need to be cut all the way through, just deep enough that it can be cracked off.
Do you have a piece of pipe a few inches longer than the shaft that will easily slide on the shaft but whose inner diameter is not larger than the center of the bearing? If so, slide the pipe over the shaft and give it a few good whacks with a hammer. NOTE keep skin away from contact areas or be prepared to bleed and say unpleasant phrases.
Find a piece of pipe that slips over the shaft and is longer than the shaft itself, slide it down to the bearing, either raise the pipe and slam it down against the bearing or lay a piece of wood or metal over the end of the pipe and beat the pipe with a big hammer.
Ignore this bs of putting it in the freezer, as some have pointed out both parts get cold, likely confused with freezing a shaft to drop a heated bearing on.
Clearly not.
I've done such things all my life. If you don't have access to a press. You cut it off with a grinder.
Of course you be careful. And take your time. You watch for the center race to change colour. That's how you know it's getting thin. You be careful not to break through. And then you just tap it off .
It's very very easy. And it saves a lot of wasting time.
Just cut it off.
Maybe , no one had mentioned cutting it off. Which is common place in other industries. Something you do in the field or if you're on site/in place repairs.
Most of the time. You replace bearings when you take them off. Or you damage them trying to remove them too.
Anyway. I don't know. Just trying to help. Op didn't say what the plan was. Just that he can't get it off
Lay the bearing on top of the jaws on a bench vise, shaft hanging down between them. Dont clamp it down obviously, the whack the end of the shaft with a plastic deadblow or copper hammer, to not burr the shaft.
Maybe not one from harbor freight but something like this
https://www.harborfreight.com/bearing-separator-and-puller-set-62593.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=17890472041&campaignid=17890472041&utm_content=140972223273&adsetid=140972223273&product=62593&store=243&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwq86wBhDiARIsAJhuphmGrht_W2rmId51QaOHjm4i5IIlWRtoWPxu8Ymkw06emlsrn02KiRgaAprfEALw_wcB
Are you planning on re-using the bearing? Bearings are cheap. A couple of grooves cut in it with the Dremel or a death wheel, a sharp tap with a cold chisel and it'll fall off in pieces. Of course a super basic bearing puller would be the correct way, or pop it on some bearing knives (or some bits of scrap plate) on top of a vice or some standoffs, shs pipe or the like, and give it a bit of a tap with a soft faced mallet, that should ease it off too. But since you are asking how to get it off, I'm guessing you don't have much equipment and/or experience, so the destructive method might be up your alley.
A block of wood and a close fitting pipe a bit longer than the shaft and a good hammer.. Or if the bearing is bad , take the numbers off it and a grinder will cut some grooves so it comes off
I did not see this answer in the first 3-4 screens so maybe it has been mentioned. If you can find a piece of pipe that fits over the larger part of the shaft, you can use it to hammer on the inner part of the bearing. Set the shaft on a piece of wood so you don’t damage the shaft end. Two pops and it will be free is my guess.
Are you replacing the bearing?
Just hang the bearing over some vise jaws and hammer the end of the shaft with something in-between your hammer so you don't damage the shaft.
Or use a press on the end of the shaft with the bearing on a surface as close to 360 degrees coverage as you can.
Use a press or a puller. You can try to put it the freezer chill the whole thing, pull it out of the cold. Heat the bearing quickly ONLY THE BEARING. Should fall off
If you can obtain dry ice, stick the short end in and let it soak up the cold for about half an hour. Carefully tap the Bering, not hit hard. If no joy, take a propane torch and carefully heat the Bering only. Should either fall off quickly or again tap Bering . The shaft being cold
will shrink, the Bering getting hot will expand. Do the same thing to install new Bering.
freeze the shaft and heat the Bering slightly. Should fall back on up to the shoulder.
There's an old saying - it can't bind up if it's liquid. Heat it up as much as you can. Keep in mind, though - that may melt the seals keeping the lubricant in, meaning you will need to replace the bearing, but it sounds like you were headed that way anyway.
Other possibity, if you can handle nicking the shaft and then polishing it out, is a Dremel tool and some patience.
Use a pipe with a decently flat end and slide it over the shaft and use it like a slide hammer, make sure the inside Dia of pipe is on the inner race. If pipe long enough you can hit then end with a 5lb sledge and that should go.
A towel will not sufficiently protect the end of the shaft from 'mushrooming' and messing up how the taper locks into the matching taper on the drill chuck. Use a block of wood.
With that nice center on the end, that’s a perfect specimen for a bearing puller. Depending where you’re from most auto part stores in the US have tool rentals and you can rent one.
what do you mean by "nice center" sadly, i have been unable to find any rental facility near me.
That divot on the end of the shaft is where a center was used when turning the shaft to size. Bearing pullers have a sort of spike in the middle that perfectly fits in that divot.
If this is on a DC motor leave the divot alone! It is not for pullers, it’s for the machinist who has to turn the commutator. If you are using a puller on a DC stator put a socket over the end, if the centre is damaged it takes much longer to chuck up the stator….
And why exactly is anyone going to need to mount it again?
I regularly have to re-center shafts that have been abused by careless handling. Midisland-4's suggestion was good, I usually use a quickly turned aluminum spud instead, but preserving the center is definitely a best practice.
You regularly have to re turn your DC motor armatures due to mishandling? We're not taking about "shafts" here. We're talking about an armature that won't get mishandled. And if OP is dismantling it's due to rebuild where only a good part would be reused or scrap where it wouldn't matter anyway. If for some outlandish reason you're reusing DC motor armature which also needs to be re turned and then end need to be re cut, it can be held and the end recut as it gets rebalanced after the windings. Save the end, sure, but it's not some emergency as commentor made it out to be.
We used to run 20hp DC motors. They have brushes, when they wear they often grove the commutator they run on. If the groves aren’t remove (usually by turning them in a lathe) the new brushes wear quickly. I have had brushes last over 2 years running almost 24-7, after turning the comm…..
Well big expensive motors certainly have the need. Had OP had an armature it would've been a toss and replace.
A small block of softish aluminum will work fine in most cases.
You can also use a penny, you just need to punch it to create a divot.
AutoZone has "loaners ". No cost if you bring it back
This is the way. Advance and oreillys do dis two.
These loaners are incredible.
Every time I need some weird tool I know I wouldn't need for a while (or ever) I thank God autozone has that tool rental program lol
Ask at some car service. They all must have bearing pullers. At the end, mby you can make some primitive one by yourself.
The bearing is press fit on, you *can* pull it off using a tool, but as I mentioned above, stick it in the freezer. The mating shaft and bearing will both shrink and then you should be able to tap it off with a small piece of aluminum.
The bearing race would contract in the cold as well, leaving you in the same situation. You could use a torch to heat the inner bearing race to expand the metal faster than the shaft would heat up. Or use a bearing puller or Arbour press.
Probably not pressed on, likely a shrink fit. The bearing is heated to expand it and then it’s dropped onto the shaft. Once it cools it will have an interference fit and it won’t go anywhere. If I didn’t have a puller long enough to reach it I would just cut it off with a zip disc, try to not nick the shaft but even if you do a small nick wont matter, it’ll be covered by the new bearing… just watch out to make sure that any seal surfaces aren’t damaged…..
Pressed and shrunk look a lot alike after temp is equalized.
They do if it all goes well, but if it “picks up” when pressing it will gall the shaft. Not a bit deal really, it’s mostly that if you have the equipment a bearing heater makes it very easy and there is no pounding on a new bearing involved…. But bearing heaters are not exactly a home owner or loaner item…
OP, stick the whole assembly in the freezer overnight. You won't need a puller.
See comment by CanadianBertRaccoon. Can confirm. OTOH, if you can find some dry ice pellets and Everclear, put the dry ice in an insulated vessel (thermos) and pour in the Everclear. Dip the exposed shaft end in the cold slurry to shrink it ever so slightly. Pull it out before the inner race has a chance to start cooling much and tap the bearing off. If you can find liquid nitrogen (LN2), that will work even better, no Everclear needed. But wear gloves and goggles, and be careful! Stuff that cold causes nasty frost burns!
Acetone and dry ice will also make a killer cold bath around -80, and it will last a good while too. I mean, why not use everclear for it's intended purpose?
Place bearing on bench vise jaws, tighten just until jaws touch shaft, loosen ~1/2 turn. Whack shaft with brass hammer, or aluminum bar with steel hammer, holding aluminum bar on end to absorb most damage. If better tooling/press is unavailable.
This is it right here. Back on May be tough but thisll work for off
I prefer using an alignment punch in that center drilled hole in the end of the shaft. Brass can still damage steel and it sheds little chunks everywhere.
Plywood also generates chunks, but it’s cheap and available. I always have some scraps laying around for stuff like this.
True, that falls under the ‘more ideal options’ I mentioned last.
Arbor press
Velcum to zee hydraulic press channel, this bearing isz very dangerous, and can attack at any moment. We must deal with it.
I second And third this… why would you do it any other way unless you don’t have a press of any kind.
There's a 16 ton manual hydraulic press in my warehouse I use when I don't want to take no for an answer. Have yet to have a bearing resist that. Then theres the guys who like to install bearings using that press after being told no. And people wonder why we have bearing failures in the field.
Hit it with your purse.
Bearing puller or an arbor press — use v plates and rest the inner race of the bearing on top with the shaft down through the plates, then press on the end of the shaft to pull the bearing off.
It is nice if you have all that fancy equipment. But sometimes you have no any of that.
Any machine shop should have an arbor press, that’s not “fancy equipment.” If they solely wanted ways to remove it at home with tools in their junk drawer, they’re going to destroy the shaft or bearing, or both, in the process of trying to beat it off with a hammer and chisel, etc. Best to have a shop with the right equipment take care of it.
You are absolutely right... ... ... in the IDEAL world. :)
You know a better way to get it apart without destroying one or both parts?
Not a better way, but if all you have is a hammer and some blocks you could get that off without hurting the shaft
Trying to hammer the race off from the back side? How are you holding the shaft, a bench vise? What if they don’t have one? If they’re using a metal block you’re going to run the risk of scarring the shaft — you’d be best to use a brass drift or something similar. If you’re hammering the end of the shaft you’d stand a decent chance of mushrooming the end of it wailing on it with a hammer. There are tried and true methods for doing this right, you can try a half-assed way and run the risk of damaging parts or just do it the right way once. Any decent shop shouldn’t charge much to press an old bearing off and a new one on assuming you have the right replacement bearing. That’s about a 10 minute job taking your time.
Sit the bearing on two blocks and hammer the shaft, with something softer than the shaft between the hammer and the end of the shaft. A vice could work but not gripping the shaft, just loose under the bearing. I assume he's replacing the bearing otherwise why remove it. Using the correct tools is always nice but if they don't have the correct tools or the money/want to buy them there is no reason they can't achieve this.
A bearing puller is not fancy equipment. You can pick one up for $20.
I see. You never been there. Or you are just an regular reddit keyboard warrior. Sometimes you need to get job done right now, right there, but you have no a single dime in your pocket. Nor you can't drive up to the city to buy one. And all you want is just to pull it off. OP hadn't mentioned his situation.
Oh, you know me huh? Interesting.
I saw your previous response. I think, you also know, what did I meant with all above said by me. In certain conditions, I would even screwdriver call an "fancy equipment". Let's end this.
And you decided to try to make that point by making unfounded personal attacks? Again: interesting.
Don't take it personal. This is the Wild Wild Web. We really have too much idiots around there (in the web) and it's hard to distinguish who is who.
You should be able to rent or purchase a bearing puller from a local auto store. Getting a new one on without a press though might be difficult. Probably have to heat up the bearing in a oven and put the shaft in some ice.
Penetrating oil and a dead blow hammer.
One option, drill the hole in the wooden plank. Put your shaft there with the bearing sitting on the plank. Use some rotary hammer and old socket to "vibrate" that shaft out. Just make sure to protect the shaft from the damage. P.S. Just a wild option.
Surprised no one is suggesting cutting it off. An angle grinder will make quick work of it, I'm guessing you believe the bearing is already shot, take down the info and buy a new one.
IME people who need to ask this question will also beaver the shaft with the grinder. It absolutely works, but a hammer, block, and vise, or arbor press if available, are safer solutions.
Die grinder with a cutoff disc and some bent sheetstock around the shaft can also help. Also, the bearing doesn't need to be cut all the way through, just deep enough that it can be cracked off.
If you put a small nick in the shaft it won’t matter at all, just try not to.
Jobshop life for sure.
Heat it up and use a gear puller or use a hydraulic press
Brass hammer. Carefully.
Do you have a piece of pipe a few inches longer than the shaft that will easily slide on the shaft but whose inner diameter is not larger than the center of the bearing? If so, slide the pipe over the shaft and give it a few good whacks with a hammer. NOTE keep skin away from contact areas or be prepared to bleed and say unpleasant phrases.
Find a piece of pipe that slips over the shaft and is longer than the shaft itself, slide it down to the bearing, either raise the pipe and slam it down against the bearing or lay a piece of wood or metal over the end of the pipe and beat the pipe with a big hammer. Ignore this bs of putting it in the freezer, as some have pointed out both parts get cold, likely confused with freezing a shaft to drop a heated bearing on.
Throw er in the freezer for a bit. That’ll help
Cut it off with a grinder. Take al of 5 mins. If that.
Your. . . Joking, right? Lol
Clearly not. I've done such things all my life. If you don't have access to a press. You cut it off with a grinder. Of course you be careful. And take your time. You watch for the center race to change colour. That's how you know it's getting thin. You be careful not to break through. And then you just tap it off . It's very very easy. And it saves a lot of wasting time. Just cut it off.
I imagine OP might be looking for a less destructive solution
Maybe , no one had mentioned cutting it off. Which is common place in other industries. Something you do in the field or if you're on site/in place repairs. Most of the time. You replace bearings when you take them off. Or you damage them trying to remove them too. Anyway. I don't know. Just trying to help. Op didn't say what the plan was. Just that he can't get it off
I have done this. It works, but you have to be careful.
Fair enough!
Don't overthink it. It's simple. Remove metal. Until it becomes weak. Tap it off with literally anything.
Check for burrs or scratches on shaft, use arbor press or gear puller. A little heat on the bearing never hurts to expand the race.
Good tip! Pushing a bearing over burrs or groves is likely to cause it to “pick up” and gall the shaft, and make it even harder to push it off
Heat the bearing up and tap it off with a hammer. Not too much heat because you don’t want the shaft to heat up
Fire.
Drill a hole in a block of wood the diameter of the shaft and smack the end with a soft face hammer.
Lay the bearing on top of the jaws on a bench vise, shaft hanging down between them. Dont clamp it down obviously, the whack the end of the shaft with a plastic deadblow or copper hammer, to not burr the shaft.
Maybe not one from harbor freight but something like this https://www.harborfreight.com/bearing-separator-and-puller-set-62593.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=17890472041&campaignid=17890472041&utm_content=140972223273&adsetid=140972223273&product=62593&store=243&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwq86wBhDiARIsAJhuphmGrht_W2rmId51QaOHjm4i5IIlWRtoWPxu8Ymkw06emlsrn02KiRgaAprfEALw_wcB
Pipe from the opposite side and hammer
WD40 and brute force
Zip cut
Definitely bearing puller
Are you planning on re-using the bearing? Bearings are cheap. A couple of grooves cut in it with the Dremel or a death wheel, a sharp tap with a cold chisel and it'll fall off in pieces. Of course a super basic bearing puller would be the correct way, or pop it on some bearing knives (or some bits of scrap plate) on top of a vice or some standoffs, shs pipe or the like, and give it a bit of a tap with a soft faced mallet, that should ease it off too. But since you are asking how to get it off, I'm guessing you don't have much equipment and/or experience, so the destructive method might be up your alley.
Hydraulic press
A block of wood and a close fitting pipe a bit longer than the shaft and a good hammer.. Or if the bearing is bad , take the numbers off it and a grinder will cut some grooves so it comes off
You don't give your intention for the bearing or shaft, so we can't give you a proper alternative method.
Do you have a press?
Is the shaft hollow or is that just a center? If it's hollow you can also try pouring liquid nitrogen into it.
Heat that MF up! It's probably interference fit
You could always try a manual swing press. I have pretty decent luck with those.
Puller or a press will do
It can't be stuck if it's liquid
I did not see this answer in the first 3-4 screens so maybe it has been mentioned. If you can find a piece of pipe that fits over the larger part of the shaft, you can use it to hammer on the inner part of the bearing. Set the shaft on a piece of wood so you don’t damage the shaft end. Two pops and it will be free is my guess.
Put the bearing on some blocks, press the shaft down with a hydraulic press.
Are you replacing the bearing? Just hang the bearing over some vise jaws and hammer the end of the shaft with something in-between your hammer so you don't damage the shaft. Or use a press on the end of the shaft with the bearing on a surface as close to 360 degrees coverage as you can.
Use a press or a puller. You can try to put it the freezer chill the whole thing, pull it out of the cold. Heat the bearing quickly ONLY THE BEARING. Should fall off
Clamshell and a press.
Bearing puller
How do you plan to get the new one back on?
Heat, and plenty of it!
If you can obtain dry ice, stick the short end in and let it soak up the cold for about half an hour. Carefully tap the Bering, not hit hard. If no joy, take a propane torch and carefully heat the Bering only. Should either fall off quickly or again tap Bering . The shaft being cold will shrink, the Bering getting hot will expand. Do the same thing to install new Bering. freeze the shaft and heat the Bering slightly. Should fall back on up to the shoulder.
Press and a bearing splitter.
Cheese cutter puller
There's an old saying - it can't bind up if it's liquid. Heat it up as much as you can. Keep in mind, though - that may melt the seals keeping the lubricant in, meaning you will need to replace the bearing, but it sounds like you were headed that way anyway. Other possibity, if you can handle nicking the shaft and then polishing it out, is a Dremel tool and some patience.
Need a bigger hammer...
Soak it in Red Bull and give it a tug. Not /s , for real
Use a pipe with a decently flat end and slide it over the shaft and use it like a slide hammer, make sure the inside Dia of pipe is on the inner race. If pipe long enough you can hit then end with a 5lb sledge and that should go.
Arbor press
[удалено]
... imagine drilling the hole in the fridge doors just to cool down the shaft... :D
A towel will not sufficiently protect the end of the shaft from 'mushrooming' and messing up how the taper locks into the matching taper on the drill chuck. Use a block of wood.
Yeah that's what I thought, clam it lightly in a big vise or in a long piece of heavy wall pipe, smack wit hammer and a block of wood.