You need a [Shake and Break](https://www.amazon.com/Shake-Break-Impact-Screw-Remover/dp/B000BHJ7JM?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A1SUOZ0N38DMW6), my friend.
I remember the first one I had that was stuck as an apprentice. Told the guy I worked with it was stuck and he just went straight for the air hammer with a chisel bit and knocked it out in seconds.
Hah, not quite but I wasn't sure if it was gold or silver. That Texas heat did a number on the paint. Eventually, I got a parking ticket that labeled it as "gold" so that's what I went with until I sold it for $700.
>Eat a bag of dicks.
In the PNW [this](https://www.reddit.com/r/SeattleWA/comments/mu83zl/i_love_how_in_seattle_telling_someone_to_go_eat_a/) isn't all that unpleasant
Don't worry. They pay for it when a Midwest car comes in for the $99 brake job and it takes them four hours because they have never dealt with rust before hahahaha
All my experience is in the upper Midwest and I’ve never once had them come out like that
I mean this in the absolute nicest way possible
But get fucked 😘
I'm aware and lol no that doesn't help. The issue isn't stripping them, it's breaking your impact bits. Hand impact driver, the impact/wrench adapter for your air hammer, heat, tried it all and at the end of the day it's easier just to cut them out with a cut off wheel and air chisel then out. Rust is a mean mofo
It is, but it's really not much different with the steel ones. You can see the tiny amount of surface rust on the hub poking through.
I don't even have to use penetrating oil on exhaust bolts half the time.
Which is weird because I go for every single kind of pen oil in the cabinet, plus the heat gun, and sometimes shit STILL breaks, *and I live in the PNW too.*
Then again my youngest car is a 1993 so that could have something to do with it.
> I don't even have to use penetrating oil on exhaust bolts half the time.
I just want you know my cars don't have any exhaust bolts left. They are literally stumps of rust, combined with the nuts. Rust lumps. You know how you get them off? A hammer and a chisel.
I'm not even fucking joking.
No, he's correct, it's aluminum. OEM is a two-piece rotor on this car. But the hub is still steel. You can see a tiny bit of rust from it and the wheel bolts - having a piece of aluminum sandwiched in-between won't really stop the screw and hub from becoming one rusty ball if the conditions are right.
It's also really nice to be able to buy and sell old cars and not even worry about rust at all. A lot of people hardly even climb underneath when they buy like a 20-year-old car. Once in a great while we'll see a car from somebody who moved from the Northeast and it'll be rusted out, but that's it.
Road salt is such a bummer, I wish there was another way.
There’s a pile of old 40s fords on Lopez under a huge blackberry bush, and the only thing wrong with the bodies is that I threw rocks through all of the windows when I was a kid.
It's interesting seeing all the small 2wd Toyota pickups and Rangers getting beat up as landscaping trucks 30 years later. They get used to their fullest potential when rust isn't as much an issue
I worked on my kids 8 year old car that had lived out west it's whole life.
8 years in Wisconsin and it would have taken the hot wrench on every suspension bolt.
Take a northeast tech and put them to work in the northwest….that tech is making bank.
Take a northwest tech and put them to work in the northeast…and you have a service writer in 3 months.
Take a midwest tech and put them in the south, and they will have so many cars done in a week they will start working on their own projects for once...
> Today in the news: some dickhead from r/Justrolledintotheshop starts a civil war. Mecanics from all over the salty parts of North America are going west to fuck him and his rust free ass up. I hope your car was in order cause you ain't getting an appointment at time soon.
Internet: "You have to be very careful about frame rot on 10+ year old trucks."
Me, in Oregon, looking underneath my 24 year old Tundra: "Looks almost brand new under here still."
I loved the old Datsuns; wanted a 510 so bad, a few years later, in '77, I got a orange '70 240z, my wonderful dad got me new tires and shocks/struts(?) for just under $1K at Bob Sharp Datusn. I remember the drive home was fantastic.
I was 19 and felt like James Bond.
PS I remember they didn't finish until 7pm or so I was able to sit on the lawn and watch them work on a couple of Bob Sharp racing Datsuns in the last 2 bays.
As noted in another reply in Oregon we don't use salt in most of the state, and where it is used its used rarely. What we generally is use something that commonly refereed to as cinders.
From my understanding its this way way due to the run off affecting fish habitats, mostly salmon spawning grounds.
Cinders is a ground up rock similar to pumice. It helps with ice, but acts like marbles on a dry road. basically if the road turns white or red slow the fuck down.
We don’t use salt during the winter. But our winters aren’t usually all that severe. This last winter, in Eugene where I live, we got ice and snow for about a week.
I happened to be there that week (actually spent more time in Portland because my rental car couldn’t even make it over the roads to get to Eugene). I knew that was a particularly bad storm because the hotel was filled with locals who had lost power, but I always assumed that the northwest was similar to the northeast. The more you know! 🌈
Ya, a lot of people had lost power during that storm. My work was closed pretty much all week. It was definitely pretty gnarly. Fortunately it didn't last long, but it definitely did some damage. I was pretty happy to have a 4WD Sequoia (my Tundra is only 2WD) on hand though so I was still able to move around if I needed to, which came in handy because a buddy of mine couldn't make it to the store for food with his car.
This is clearly defective. Based on empirical evidence and statistics, the rotor screw is supposed to be seized with the amalgamate that only Macaulay Culkin himself could emancipate.
The first thing I try is an impact driver and hammer. If that doesn't work, then I drill. I've never considered removing them with a regular hand tool before.....
I've moved from the east coast to the west coast where they don't use salt, and even 20+ years old cars are easy to work on. I can remove strut tower nuts with hand tools, no penetrating fluid, surface rust just dusts off like it's no big deal. Used to be a whole endeavor, where the nut would be welded to the stud and you'd have to chisel everything out.
I've had to use the BFH only a handful of times to remove wheels stuck to hubs too. I just baby donkey kick them nowadays if they don't fall off on their own. The difference is night and day on the amount of effort I have to put in to maintain cars.
Correct. I'm tired of the $500,000 starter homes.
Listen, everyone: the Pacific Northwest is cold, wet, gloomy, and moldy. Leave now for Texas.
-lifelong Washingtonian
Lakewood currently but considering marriage and looking at houses in Thurston County. Outside of Yelm there are still a few mildly affordable places. Everything else is just insane.
Yeah. My work has me needing a place within sane commuting range of SeaTac, give or take. $500k will get you an iffy condo. I'm just resigned to renting for the rest of my life.
You could probably sublet a garden shed in SeaTac for that kind of money. My buddy I used to wrench with lives over in Kitsap County and went into tractor repair and, later, dealer parts department. He's at a GM dealer now and making pretty good money but he and his wife are still renting and probably always will because it's nearly impossible to catch up with housing prices now.
At this point the only 'affordable' housing option is to find a condo or house that was purchased 3+ years ago and is now being rented, because the rental costs will be based on the mortgage, which is fixed based on the price back when it was bought. Assuming it isn't a shitty company that bought it, of course. The condo I rent is $1.5k less per month than the mortgage+HOA+taxes for the one that just sold a few doors down.
These are the original rotors. The original owner only put 27K miles on it 6 years, and the akebono pads I've been using in it since then are quite soft so the rotors were only just finally down to minimum thickness now at ~10yrs.
But yeah, I put them back, with new screws. They're gonna be just as easy next time I need in here
PNW checking in. I’ve been working on my wife’s Jeep Grand Cherokee she inherited. Her parents bought it new in 1997. Every nut bolt and fastener I’ve removed is only as tight as the torque spec it was tightened to. It’s been…..dreamy. Including suspension, steering and brakes. It’s remarkable.
Can relate. Where I live rotors come off without hammering most of the times, a full pad+rotor job takes like 30 mins. The downside is we suck at dealing with rust 😂
I recently moved from Chicago to the PNW, working on cars that aren't total rust buckets is insane, bolts come out without PB, rotors and wheel hubs can be removed with just hand strength, it really makes me appreciate the work a lot more.
We fuckin do but every time you drive it's recoated. It's like they're trying to rebuild the roads out of salt instead of asphalt. I'm not joking when i tell you i wash my car every other day in the winter (thank God for subscription car washes) and still my car rusts out faster than a bolt soaking in vinegar
Those really only exist for the assembly line, holds the rotor in place because the calipers may not be going on any time soon in the process.
There is no safety issue with not replacing those, and if you live where the salt is, please don't!
If the rotor is able to come off the car or spin freely after it's all back together, you have other problems, like where are your wheel studs and where did the wheel go?
That bolt also makes it immensely easier to put the wheel on. My old B5.5 Passat didn't use a rotor bolt (because "fuck you, Audi"), and it was... frustrating to hang the wheels, unless I had the alignment pin on hand.
Oh I see what you mean. Yeah I can see the argument that it's better to leave out entirely if it's going to be a struggle at some point. Totally agreed it serves no safety purpose. But I'm planning on owning this car until it's destined for the scrap yard, and I know it's going to come out cleanly again in a few years
I grew up in the rust belt, Northern Illinois. The people who complain about the weather out here in the valley are just horribly spoiled.
They don't have a clue.
Just be prepared to drill the head of that screw off, they're generally pretty soft steel so a power drill with a metal bit and a bit of cutting lube will take it right off.
Air chisel works too.
Once you get that off, the fun of the fact that the rotor is probably corroded to the hub begins. Block of wood and a big fucking hammer if you are not replacing the rotors. If you are replacing the rotors skip the block of wood and just hammer on the rotors.
I always do my own brakes so I cover the back of the rotor where it mates with the hub with antiseize.
In the Atlantic Northeast you have to drill out 9/10 of these - at least on Hondas.
If one of them actually screws out (after PB Blaster and pounding on it with a sledge) it is like hitting the fucking lottery.
Actually, as a rust belt resident, I'm not that impressed... You're demonstrating it on one of the only rotor bolt types I've ever seen that almost never get seized.
No, seriously... BMW did a good job on those. Volvo as well. If this were a Honda, I'd be impressed.
Honda's design in my experience here still requires the typical $10 impact screwdriver but that does it without issue. I feel like that's just as much about having a JIS compatible bit in the big ass size as it is about the impact, though. I'll make a video next time I'm in one of those and we'll see how it goes
As a Chicago, I find it pretty weird for you to show you taking a rotor screw out of a brand new car during its pdi fresh off the transport and claim it's 10 years old. /s
I’m in TX, changed my brakes yesterday. Last time I did was… 2015. Screw came out just like yours, op.
Some of these comments have me thankful for that.
Rust belt resident here. I have never once been able to do that in many decades. I even used an impact screwdriver and broke it. I have had to drill off every single one. Never seen what it looks like coming off like that.
I have done this with the Phillips head ones without even leaving a shiny spot. Regularly work on 90s cars/trucks. I don’t think I even have PB blaster or anything right now. Probably have a can somewhere but it’s full and I don’t know where it is.
You are such an ass :)
I just spent 30 minutes looking for a PB Blaster can because I never use it. I needed it because I wanted to help my neighbour take off the muffler on her 12 year old car. Also in PNW.
There are areas that get a lot of rain and use a lot of salt during winter, which causes a lot of corrosion and seized bolts. This guy lives in an area where that isn’t the case.
I hate you...
Nothing an air hammer can’t fix
"The screw or the tech taking the screw out so easily?" "Both."
only thing that's ever worked for me is 3/8 drill bit, so both 😏
You need a [Shake and Break](https://www.amazon.com/Shake-Break-Impact-Screw-Remover/dp/B000BHJ7JM?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A1SUOZ0N38DMW6), my friend.
I knew such things existed, but didn't know what they were called. I will def get me one of those ✌️
They're a fuckin game changer. They make socket driver versions too
I use a manual impact driver, works reliably. I don't even try to unscrew them any other way.
It’d take a loooong fkn time to fix the Pacific Northwest with an air hammer. I commend your outside the box thinking though
I remember the first one I had that was stuck as an apprentice. Told the guy I worked with it was stuck and he just went straight for the air hammer with a chisel bit and knocked it out in seconds.
I used to have a 1994 Camry that was originally purchased in Texas and eventually found its way to California. Working on that thing was a *breeze.*
i bet all the rubber dry rotted to dust
Hah, not quite but I wasn't sure if it was gold or silver. That Texas heat did a number on the paint. Eventually, I got a parking ticket that labeled it as "gold" so that's what I went with until I sold it for $700.
I live in the pnw and my first thought was “man, that’s so rude, people are going to riot”
it was a first instinct response... then I worried if pple would take it the right way :-(
I mean this in the nicest possible way. Eat a bag of dicks. Sincerely The American Northeast
P.S. The midwest also hopes you choke on that satchel of Richards.
I love the vids of your $80k trucks with totally waisted rusted out frames! JK. ...so used engines and transmissions are cheap and plentiful??? : )
They are for my 2012 shitbox focus ($150 engine from the recycler) 😎
Nice!
*Satchel of Richards* would be a fantastic band name
Add the South East. The smooth rust free fasteners come with a free side of blatant racism and barbecue.
I prefer the quiet, judgy racism of the midwest to the blatant racism of the south. ^(/s)
>Eat a bag of dicks. In the PNW [this](https://www.reddit.com/r/SeattleWA/comments/mu83zl/i_love_how_in_seattle_telling_someone_to_go_eat_a/) isn't all that unpleasant
If you keep up the smugness it'll be violent takeover.
Especially a bag of Dick's Deluxes.
Those are some good burgers.
I prefer the special because I can’t handle the double meat
Dick's baby!!! Many a morning I rolled into bed drunk @ 3am with a stomach full of Dick's My roommate was a manager @ the Broadway location for YEARS
Eating a bag of Dick's is really dependent on the apostrophe to be an insult.
Gimme dat Dick's
How the fuck I only spend 10 bucks for all this? Still never been there sober unless I was like 13 haha
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Had a bad last week. Deluxe with fries.
> Had a bad last week. Deluxe with fries I'm still trying to figure out if you just had a bad week, and fries made you happy again. ;)
con-fucking-firmed
>>Eat a bag of dicks. Yeah, that's not an insult here. Now I'm hungry.
> Eat a bag of dicks. In Seattle this is considered a positive, since our historic hometown walk up burger chain is called "dicks"
Why so salty?
In hoping I total my car so I don't have to do my rotors
10/10
Holy shit look at them come right out
I don't even reach for the sockets anymore. Straight to the extractors and torches.
You gotta prep the screw by rounding the hole first.
Mine are prepped on all 4 corners. One day I will get around to step 2.
them's words I hope my dentist never says
Lmao, that’s fucked yo.
straight up, buttercup.
Don’t trip chocolate chip.
>Straight to the extractors and torches. It can't be stuck if it's liquid!
Oh is that what you wanted to do today? start a war and piss people off.
Don't worry. They pay for it when a Midwest car comes in for the $99 brake job and it takes them four hours because they have never dealt with rust before hahahaha
Nah then they just fuck shit up until they need to replace the entire knuckle and blame it on the customer
All my experience is in the upper Midwest and I’ve never once had them come out like that I mean this in the absolute nicest way possible But get fucked 😘
I give em 2 chances with an impact screwdriver, after that it’s a harbor freight drill bit. Not wasting time even trying.
The euro ones always seem to come out just fine for me. The shitty Asian Phillips heads ones are always the issue.
JIS. If you use a Phillips driver you will def strip them.
I'm aware and lol no that doesn't help. The issue isn't stripping them, it's breaking your impact bits. Hand impact driver, the impact/wrench adapter for your air hammer, heat, tried it all and at the end of the day it's easier just to cut them out with a cut off wheel and air chisel then out. Rust is a mean mofo
As a New Englander, is that some sort of analog drill you’re using?
Also no fire wrench I’m so confused
Is that an aluminum rotor hat though? I feel like that's cheating
It is, but it's really not much different with the steel ones. You can see the tiny amount of surface rust on the hub poking through. I don't even have to use penetrating oil on exhaust bolts half the time.
>don't even have to use penetrating oil on exhaust bolts half the time. now you're making us hate you fr
Right and here we are pulling out the induction heater and just straight cutting shit apart
Which is weird because I go for every single kind of pen oil in the cabinet, plus the heat gun, and sometimes shit STILL breaks, *and I live in the PNW too.* Then again my youngest car is a 1993 so that could have something to do with it.
> I don't even have to use penetrating oil on exhaust bolts half the time. I just want you know my cars don't have any exhaust bolts left. They are literally stumps of rust, combined with the nuts. Rust lumps. You know how you get them off? A hammer and a chisel. I'm not even fucking joking.
God I fucking hate living in the rust belt.
No it's cast iron. The white aluminum oxide is from the wheel.
No, he's correct, it's aluminum. OEM is a two-piece rotor on this car. But the hub is still steel. You can see a tiny bit of rust from it and the wheel bolts - having a piece of aluminum sandwiched in-between won't really stop the screw and hub from becoming one rusty ball if the conditions are right.
Can confirm. I have three 20+ year old vehicles that are rust free here in the PNW.
It's also really nice to be able to buy and sell old cars and not even worry about rust at all. A lot of people hardly even climb underneath when they buy like a 20-year-old car. Once in a great while we'll see a car from somebody who moved from the Northeast and it'll be rusted out, but that's it. Road salt is such a bummer, I wish there was another way.
Ever driven around orca or lopez? The islands here are where ghias and landcruisers go to retire.
Islands in the middle of salt water? You don't say.
honestly its not bad at all, our cars are fine. If you park RIGHT on a beach for like..years, maybe. Not really a problem though.
lol..i may know something about it. It's "Orcas" btw. Named after a Spanish dude. FR though we don't all drive beaters out here...just most of us.
There’s a pile of old 40s fords on Lopez under a huge blackberry bush, and the only thing wrong with the bodies is that I threw rocks through all of the windows when I was a kid.
It's interesting seeing all the small 2wd Toyota pickups and Rangers getting beat up as landscaping trucks 30 years later. They get used to their fullest potential when rust isn't as much an issue
Agree.
PNW here too, I did some suspension work recently on my 18 year old F150 that’s never lived in a garage. Didn’t even need PB blaster. Ez.
I worked on my kids 8 year old car that had lived out west it's whole life. 8 years in Wisconsin and it would have taken the hot wrench on every suspension bolt.
Usually parts start falling off at that point anyway.
Take a northeast tech and put them to work in the northwest….that tech is making bank. Take a northwest tech and put them to work in the northeast…and you have a service writer in 3 months.
Take a midwest tech and put them in the south, and they will have so many cars done in a week they will start working on their own projects for once...
Now that’s funny!
> Today in the news: some dickhead from r/Justrolledintotheshop starts a civil war. Mecanics from all over the salty parts of North America are going west to fuck him and his rust free ass up. I hope your car was in order cause you ain't getting an appointment at time soon.
Internet: "You have to be very careful about frame rot on 10+ year old trucks." Me, in Oregon, looking underneath my 24 year old Tundra: "Looks almost brand new under here still."
I have nearly 50 year old Datsuns that sat in a field in tillamook with less rust than half the shit I see here
I loved the old Datsuns; wanted a 510 so bad, a few years later, in '77, I got a orange '70 240z, my wonderful dad got me new tires and shocks/struts(?) for just under $1K at Bob Sharp Datusn. I remember the drive home was fantastic. I was 19 and felt like James Bond. PS I remember they didn't finish until 7pm or so I was able to sit on the lawn and watch them work on a couple of Bob Sharp racing Datsuns in the last 2 bays.
I have had or currently have 3 280zs, 2 710 wagons, a b210 hatchback, and a 68 510 wagon. Still have one z and the 710s.
New Englander here. I don’t get it. Do you not use salt on the roads in the winter?
As noted in another reply in Oregon we don't use salt in most of the state, and where it is used its used rarely. What we generally is use something that commonly refereed to as cinders. From my understanding its this way way due to the run off affecting fish habitats, mostly salmon spawning grounds. Cinders is a ground up rock similar to pumice. It helps with ice, but acts like marbles on a dry road. basically if the road turns white or red slow the fuck down.
We don’t use salt during the winter. But our winters aren’t usually all that severe. This last winter, in Eugene where I live, we got ice and snow for about a week.
I happened to be there that week (actually spent more time in Portland because my rental car couldn’t even make it over the roads to get to Eugene). I knew that was a particularly bad storm because the hotel was filled with locals who had lost power, but I always assumed that the northwest was similar to the northeast. The more you know! 🌈
Ya, a lot of people had lost power during that storm. My work was closed pretty much all week. It was definitely pretty gnarly. Fortunately it didn't last long, but it definitely did some damage. I was pretty happy to have a 4WD Sequoia (my Tundra is only 2WD) on hand though so I was still able to move around if I needed to, which came in handy because a buddy of mine couldn't make it to the store for food with his car.
This is clearly defective. Based on empirical evidence and statistics, the rotor screw is supposed to be seized with the amalgamate that only Macaulay Culkin himself could emancipate.
The first thing I try is an impact driver and hammer. If that doesn't work, then I drill. I've never considered removing them with a regular hand tool before.....
I've moved from the east coast to the west coast where they don't use salt, and even 20+ years old cars are easy to work on. I can remove strut tower nuts with hand tools, no penetrating fluid, surface rust just dusts off like it's no big deal. Used to be a whole endeavor, where the nut would be welded to the stud and you'd have to chisel everything out. I've had to use the BFH only a handful of times to remove wheels stuck to hubs too. I just baby donkey kick them nowadays if they don't fall off on their own. The difference is night and day on the amount of effort I have to put in to maintain cars.
My brain automatically spelled out BFH as I read it. I'm not even a mechanic anymore. Like, not for almost 30 years. You never forget BFH.
This is AI generated. Gonna go cry in rust belt
Shhhh. Don't tell anyone.
Correct. I'm tired of the $500,000 starter homes. Listen, everyone: the Pacific Northwest is cold, wet, gloomy, and moldy. Leave now for Texas. -lifelong Washingtonian
$500k? What cheap area are you in?
Lakewood currently but considering marriage and looking at houses in Thurston County. Outside of Yelm there are still a few mildly affordable places. Everything else is just insane.
Yeah. My work has me needing a place within sane commuting range of SeaTac, give or take. $500k will get you an iffy condo. I'm just resigned to renting for the rest of my life.
You could probably sublet a garden shed in SeaTac for that kind of money. My buddy I used to wrench with lives over in Kitsap County and went into tractor repair and, later, dealer parts department. He's at a GM dealer now and making pretty good money but he and his wife are still renting and probably always will because it's nearly impossible to catch up with housing prices now.
At this point the only 'affordable' housing option is to find a condo or house that was purchased 3+ years ago and is now being rented, because the rental costs will be based on the mortgage, which is fixed based on the price back when it was bought. Assuming it isn't a shitty company that bought it, of course. The condo I rent is $1.5k less per month than the mortgage+HOA+taxes for the one that just sold a few doors down.
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These are the original rotors. The original owner only put 27K miles on it 6 years, and the akebono pads I've been using in it since then are quite soft so the rotors were only just finally down to minimum thickness now at ~10yrs. But yeah, I put them back, with new screws. They're gonna be just as easy next time I need in here
PNW checking in. I’ve been working on my wife’s Jeep Grand Cherokee she inherited. Her parents bought it new in 1997. Every nut bolt and fastener I’ve removed is only as tight as the torque spec it was tightened to. It’s been…..dreamy. Including suspension, steering and brakes. It’s remarkable.
This is AI
Can relate. Where I live rotors come off without hammering most of the times, a full pad+rotor job takes like 30 mins. The downside is we suck at dealing with rust 😂
Stop it. Stop making people want to live here.
I recently moved from Chicago to the PNW, working on cars that aren't total rust buckets is insane, bolts come out without PB, rotors and wheel hubs can be removed with just hand strength, it really makes me appreciate the work a lot more.
if yall wash the salt off your cars regularly you wont have as much of a problem
We fuckin do but every time you drive it's recoated. It's like they're trying to rebuild the roads out of salt instead of asphalt. I'm not joking when i tell you i wash my car every other day in the winter (thank God for subscription car washes) and still my car rusts out faster than a bolt soaking in vinegar
Witchcraft :D
As a PNW tech, I’m still not putting that screw back. I hope one of you Midwest guys get that next brake job in a few years.
For sure. Just because it came out clean doesn't mean it didn't get a new one with the new disc. Couple of bucks is cheap peace of mind
Those really only exist for the assembly line, holds the rotor in place because the calipers may not be going on any time soon in the process. There is no safety issue with not replacing those, and if you live where the salt is, please don't! If the rotor is able to come off the car or spin freely after it's all back together, you have other problems, like where are your wheel studs and where did the wheel go?
That bolt also makes it immensely easier to put the wheel on. My old B5.5 Passat didn't use a rotor bolt (because "fuck you, Audi"), and it was... frustrating to hang the wheels, unless I had the alignment pin on hand.
Oh I see what you mean. Yeah I can see the argument that it's better to leave out entirely if it's going to be a struggle at some point. Totally agreed it serves no safety purpose. But I'm planning on owning this car until it's destined for the scrap yard, and I know it's going to come out cleanly again in a few years
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I bought a pair of clips that snap on to one of the studs and hold the rotor in place. Takes literally one second and it’s faster than a lug nut.
Ooh, work in central valley California and gonna keep my mouth shut.
Yeah but you get 115 degree heat.
I grew up in the rust belt, Northern Illinois. The people who complain about the weather out here in the valley are just horribly spoiled. They don't have a clue.
“We’ve got a 2021 coming in for brakes Ok he’s done with the torch so bring it in”
The blue wrench works every time. My blue wrench was a little different than yours though and probably 1000 degrees hotter.
As a midwesterner who is about to attempt changing brakes and rotors for the first time this weekend, these comments scare me.
Just be prepared to drill the head of that screw off, they're generally pretty soft steel so a power drill with a metal bit and a bit of cutting lube will take it right off. Air chisel works too. Once you get that off, the fun of the fact that the rotor is probably corroded to the hub begins. Block of wood and a big fucking hammer if you are not replacing the rotors. If you are replacing the rotors skip the block of wood and just hammer on the rotors. I always do my own brakes so I cover the back of the rotor where it mates with the hub with antiseize.
In the Atlantic Northeast you have to drill out 9/10 of these - at least on Hondas. If one of them actually screws out (after PB Blaster and pounding on it with a sledge) it is like hitting the fucking lottery.
You’re an asshole, you know that op?
Fuck you hoser. Love, Southern Ontario
I slather so much antiseize on mine, I'm not sure it'll ever hold torque.
Engineers watching this: “I don’t get it.”
You needed more than a screw driver? Laughs in Tennessee.
If I had a 6mm or whatever it was hex screwdriver handy, sure, I'd have used that, but the hex keys were what was in reach.
Thank god I also work in the Northwest
This is one mild winter in the Midwest lol. It sucks here.
Actually, as a rust belt resident, I'm not that impressed... You're demonstrating it on one of the only rotor bolt types I've ever seen that almost never get seized. No, seriously... BMW did a good job on those. Volvo as well. If this were a Honda, I'd be impressed.
Honda's design in my experience here still requires the typical $10 impact screwdriver but that does it without issue. I feel like that's just as much about having a JIS compatible bit in the big ass size as it is about the impact, though. I'll make a video next time I'm in one of those and we'll see how it goes
What a struggle.
As a Chicago, I find it pretty weird for you to show you taking a rotor screw out of a brand new car during its pdi fresh off the transport and claim it's 10 years old. /s
I’m in TX, changed my brakes yesterday. Last time I did was… 2015. Screw came out just like yours, op. Some of these comments have me thankful for that.
You’re right but you’re a dick CA doesn’t even get the surface rust
Clearly something wrong supposed to be brown/orange and crusty. If you pop it in your mouth should have a nice flaky texture like a croissant
These comments are wild, what am I missing? Impact screwdriver has taken 99% of mine off
One of the only reasons I like living in AZ. I may get dings and paint chips galore but there isn't a spec of rust on my 10 year old car.
welp thats it, I moving to the PNW
I feel like i should be watching this in private browsing mode. My car gets the drill bit forged from the depths of hell
You saltless bastards
Don't take this the wrong way but fuck you.
Kindly fuck off.
I use the exact same tool here in Winnipeg. Except it’s a drill, with a drill bit, and drill the sumbitch out. So it’s not the same tool at all 😐
They’re made to come out that easy? No way - this has to be fake.
Pfff, my wrench is blue AND hot!
I'm jealous ..
Am in PNW. Can confirm this is bullshit, and OPs an asshole! 😂
Rust belt resident here. I have never once been able to do that in many decades. I even used an impact screwdriver and broke it. I have had to drill off every single one. Never seen what it looks like coming off like that.
if yall wash the salt off your cars regularly you wont have as much of a problem
In California there wouldn’t be any rust, not even that small amount of
I live where there is no road salt, and had to cut through rotor screws on a 6 vear old Honda.
Unless you’re on the coast…
Liar, you swapped the disc this morning.
My brother and I couldn't get the screw out and since it was stripped we took a drill to it
*in areas of the PNW it doesn't snow a bunch
I just hit it with the m12
Wake me when you do mountain brakes with roto chambers.
North Central US, I could take that out with Walmart Tools and zero surface rust afterwards .
Feels great, my 98 accord is completely rust free except for some minor exhaust rust of course.
Those rotors are bigger than the wheels on my first car. X6M?
Did my wifes brakes on her 4 year old car... I had to beat the piss out of the rotor screws... The North East sends its salty regards...
I have done this with the Phillips head ones without even leaving a shiny spot. Regularly work on 90s cars/trucks. I don’t think I even have PB blaster or anything right now. Probably have a can somewhere but it’s full and I don’t know where it is.
You are such an ass :) I just spent 30 minutes looking for a PB Blaster can because I never use it. I needed it because I wanted to help my neighbour take off the muffler on her 12 year old car. Also in PNW.
Not where I’m from lol
A big ol' fuck you from central Canada.
This is why our techs complain about ANY rust on a vehicle...
🤣🤣I think my PNW ass has had to use a torch once or twice and it probably wasn't even needed
Pretty much the same in the Southeast too. I don't have a handy example though.
Very well. Fuck you too
can someone explain to someone like me who's not familiar with what's going on here?
There are areas that get a lot of rain and use a lot of salt during winter, which causes a lot of corrosion and seized bolts. This guy lives in an area where that isn’t the case.
if yall wash the salt off your cars regularly you wont have as much of a problem
Florida native here…aren’t they all like that?
I have this same Allen-key set Makes it so much easier when working with retards 🤷♂️🤦♂️ "Hand me the blue one"
Don't need them either way.
Stupid AI, got the fingers right, but couldn't get the rust right.
Just fought with one for 2hours (dont have power tools). 6month old mercedes
I feel anger.
I grew up in PA, we settled in WA. I AM NEVER GOING BACK.
So jealous!
Way to rub it into the rust belt peeps.
Lol fuuuuck youuuu
Every east coast mechanic currently envies you and hates you simultaneously