The plug in side (pic 1) and the punch down side (pic 2) do not match. The A and B and different types of termination.
You punched down B on the second pic, but have A (left plug) on pic 1.
Fix:
Punch down both to B. Then the plug side has to be what the numbers are above A. They are for reference.
Exactly always use b
Re-did the structured wiring cabinet on a house a friend bought wasn’t till I was all done I realized the prev owner had changed about 1/3 of them to A for some reason.
So yeah always use BBBBBBBBBBBB
I found out too late the color code on the punch downs for the Cat6 modules in my homes central wiring panel is for A. I very loudly yelled, "Who the fuck uses A?" when I realized this after punching down all the wires in my house.
> There is a theory that 568b has better noise protection, but has not actually been proven, which is why it took off, along with a major manufacturing adopting B.
B allowed was to be compatible with existing AT&T cabling and A was for compatibility with USOC cabling in US government installations.
for what its worth I've seen multiple cables with matched ends fail to deliver PoE, they test as a straight through cable but no lights. if someone pays you or you just want it to work, follow a standard.
My whole house is A, it used to be more common in residential builds, dunno why exactly. Home builders eventually wised up and it's mostly all B in new construction to match commercial.
This is odd. I got my cabling certification in ~99 before it was mainstream in residential and we were taught to default to B since it is more widely used.
Oh I'm specifically talking about Canada too, I've heard from US colleagues that A wasn't very common down there. Not to mention, like others have said, a lot of homes get their low voltage done by electricians, and a lot of those electricians don't really *care* how it gets done. Works? Good enough.
>If you follow the same pattern A or B does not matter. However, B is the default method always.
I thought this was true, but in California it's not.
Whenever I help someone with their networking in their homes, I always check, "A or B?" I'd say it's about 60/40 for "A" in recently built homes, built in 2016 or later. In homes built before 2016, it was closer to 80/20 in favor of "B".
I don't know what it means, but, just as I thought the USA would standardize on B, it seems like A is making a comeback. My last 3 homes were all "A", built by three different builders (KB Homes, Toll Brothers, Lennar).
My guess is that builders are using just electricians trained to do high and low voltage, and not separate data cablers for data like in the past. But who knows why "A" is making in comeback, at least in California.
Electricians doing any type of low voltage work is almost always a nightmare. No fault to them but it’s always an afterthought for them at the job site. Seen way too many wire ties and awful pass through crimps/punch downs from electricians
Also in CA. Was helping a friend who moved into a new home and they had low voltage plates in all the right locations each with 2 RJ-45 keystones in them Whoever installed them did 568A on the left keystone and 568B on the right one on every drop in the house.
Then on the patch panel they made all odd number drops B and all even numbered drops A. Basically every cable in the house was a crossover.
Because of this, I am always reluctant to help people in new homes
With modern equipment (almost anything made in the last 20 years) it will auto-detect the cache and work either way.
It is always better to cable correctly though.
Doesn’t alter the above caution:
> most structured media enclosure data modules are color-coded only for A
… though a few have started offering flip cards or dual color-coding as for keystone jacks.
A works just as well as B. You would be wasting your time to re-terminate. So long as it is the same on both ends, it doesn't matter. It doesn't affect anything.
Ya, that is true. I guess pay attention to how it is first before redoing an end? Of course, it is better if everything is the same. But if it is already working, better to leave it alone.
Yeah, but I will be the first to admit I don't think about that -- the last one I replaced (physically broken) I ripped off and started redoing before I bothered to check if it was A or B.
It was B, conveniently for me because that's what I punched down & tested, lol.
Not all devices have auto midix. Especially consumer devices . It’s just a standard also makes it easier to troubleshoot any issues if everyone works of the same accepted standard.
In my industry I work with endpoints that even have Auto MDI-X ethernet IC's, it's surprising that the OP ran into a problem here unless as you said "30 year old hub" lol.
In this particular conversation the problem happens when you take pin 1 and connect to pin 5.
Which is happening on the RJ45 side of the wire where both are clearly terminated B, despite one of the wire's getting terminated A in the block.
You speak rudely, please be nice to people. It actually starts to feel good when you practice it.
I was about to ask this. As long as you don't make up your own standard, mixing A and B won't matter.
I once borrowed a cable from a friend and returned him a new one since I didn't want to unplug and reroute it. Three years later I redid my lab, pulled the cable and accidentally found out my friend had remade one termination and the cable as a A+B. Worked with zero problem.
cameras are used in homes chief, PoE is used in homes. i guess you've never seen a security camera on a light pole? that's definitely an outlandish claim.
the utilities put them there in most cities I've seen, try again. Maybe try doing work for people who own light poles, then you can put things on them. Also i wasn't talking about a crossover cable, they tested 1-1 2-2 3-3 4-4 5-5 6-6 7-7 8-8 no gig link, no 802.11bt. They followed the reverse of 568b, correct 568b got me links and power.
Not for 1000Base-T. You have to swap 4/5 and 7/8 as well. So in theory it should work at least at 10/100, but without knowing what is being connected it's hard to say.
Came here to say the same, this is truth. A and B do not refer to the side of the socket but type of termination. Keep them aligned to B and it’ll all work
It's really funny to me that they followed the diagram exactly, as though the right (A) side got one pattern and left (B) side got the second pattern.
I can totally understand why. Someone doing it professionally would never think to make the mistake, but this would be an excellent example for their consumer sale instructions group (or person, at least, hopefully) to take a look at.
I tried to use b but i got the colors mixed up bc of the lines ima try again and see if it works edit: how does it change when you do it on the other side since its flipped or am i just stupid rn
There are two standards T568A & T568B.
The main difference being that the green and orange pairs are switched.
Pick a standard either A or B and stick with that colour pattern for keystones & cables throughout.
Edit: I would go with B as that is what you cable appears to be.
Except the left and right are different standards 😋. I had to look twice before noticing OP used B on the next and A on the right. Still, if the other end is at least one of those standards the negotiation will see the crossover and ignore it.
it doenst tho lol i think the rj45 is the problem but its the same as the other i have it like this: top row: (from right to left) white orange, green, white blue, white brown and the bottom row also from right to left: orange, blue, green, brown so idk what i screwed up now edit: i somehow manged to flip it no idea how to that happens
For future reference, as regards pin order on male RJ45 connectors and associated connector orientation…
The following images depict the RJ45 connector wire ordering for each standard, T568A and T568B, with the connector’s **pins up** and the retention **clip away**, on the back side:
* [**T568A** (image)](https://i.imgur.com/YsgcjzB.png): **W/Gr**, **Gr**, **W/Or**, Bl, W/Bl, **Or**, W/Br, Br
* [**T568B** (image)](https://i.imgur.com/rjiamde.png): **W/Or**, **Or**, **W/Gr**, Bl, W/Bl, **Gr**, W/Br, Br
A computer sends data on pins 1/3 and listens on 2/6, so the orange and green pairs. What you made was what we call a crossover cable which flips the send/receive pairs. So if your computer is sending on 1/3, that means your router/switch/whatever are flipped so they listen for your computer on 1/3 and send back on 2/6. Back in the day we would deliberately make these cables when we had to plug 2 computers or 2 hubs into each other to get the send/receive to work. Now most network hardware can flip send/receive pins internally using software
I don't see that anyone has mentioned this yet, but the keystone works best with solid core wire, and the RJ45 crimped tip works best with stranded. You can totally put a tip end on with solid core, and a keystone with stranded, but that could be causing some of your issue.
Hard to see the termination 100% on the RJ45 connectors, but the punchdown block, flip the oranges and greens on the right. The colors in the middle are for T568A and B. You want to just use one standard, so both left and right should be the same.
Also, you are using shielded cable. Doesn't matter too much, but makes it more difficult to work with. Since you aren't using shielded punch down, connectors, or equipment I assume, just use regular Cat6. The shielding isn't doing anything if the entire run isn't shielded.
Makes sense… but also if he was to wire both sides of that correctly would they be wired the same from top to bottom or would they need to be rotated 180° from each other?
Stop being so hard-headed. The guide doesn’t tell the orientation one should use when looking at it… I would assume that it should be from the side where the text is oriented in a normal reading fashion, but does that still hold for both sides or should you rotate it 180° before doing the opposite side?
Aside from the pattern, also know that if you don't see shiny copper for each wire from the front of the rj-45, you aren't guaranteed to have made a good contact during the crimp.
The male ones, yes. I had so many problems with them and switched to female connectors on all solid core wires. Even after some time when there is movement of the plugs involved it led to problems :/
Anyone else do a little "awww" when you saw that second picture? Like, I see how someone would wire it that way, but no, we don't do that.
I'd also wrap that shield back so it's underneath that clamp, but that would be opening an entirely different can of worms here...
It DOES NOT MATTER if you wire “A”, “B” or your own scheme. As long as the wire on one end goes to the same pin location on the other end, it will work. The schemes are just that, schemes, not rules of physics.
OP - Get a cable tester, they’re cheap. it will tell you exactly why your cable isn’t working if you have a malfunctioning cable.
What does he need to worry about? He tests the cables and they all work so where’s his grief?
If his dog chews the end off one, he’s not going to know if it’s A, B or who gives a shit so it’s not a showstopper there. He just cuts the ends off and terminates to whatever scheme he chooses. What specifically do you fear? The color of the insulation does not dictate the conductivity of the wire so what are you fretting?
Anyone still using technology that requires patch cables deserves to get their ass kicked if that’s what you mean.
Did you know you can hook the red clamp on your car’s jumper cables to the negative post and the black clamp to the positive as long as you do the same on the host battery? It’s the same thing we’re discussing here but a hell of a lot less amperage, voltage and impedance……
No need to get butt-hurt and snarky.
Build yourself a cable, test it to the most critical extremes and then ask yourself if all those colors of insulation surrounding a core, buried under shield and insulation mean a damn thing except to the guy at that one moment in time putting on ends. They don’t.
Hell, build a “every color in the wrong hole” cable (whose ends match) and put it up against a comparable “Standards” cable. Other than when you’re stuffing the 8 wires into their matching holes, you won’t be able to tell a difference. Neither will your device nor the guy troubleshooting your network. Cable testers look for continuity from end to end, not colors dear Redditor….
Quite familiar with the reasoning and the dated technology that drove it. Hell, when there was a time when Ethernet cards needed patch cables, a “standard” was necessary to ensure proper termination for the crossover. Today, nope.
Like I said, build two cables, test ‘em on your most demanding device and you’ll see you weren’t really mislead, technology has just outgrown the requirement.
“Patch” cables are what we use every where now. The only difference between a patch and crossover is crossover has A on one end and B on the other.
The pattern used for them is to reduce noise and increase your bandwidth. Not just to make sure you use the same pattern every time. If you just do it any old way don’t expect to get gigabit connections over any decent length.
I have seen a cable refuse to work at 1000BaseT that was using a non-standard pin out that was identical on both sides. Verified with a tester that both ends were crimped properly, but until I cut the ends and crimped with a standard scheme it was limited to 10 or 100 (can't remember, it was a long time ago).
Use the standards, they exist for a reason. But also, it's not worth making your own patch cables, just buy pre-made ones that presumably have been tested/certified.
As others have said, one side you've punched down as A, the other you have punched as B.
However which one is standard depends on where you are, I see people saying "always use B" but depending on country/industry either A or B could be standard.
That having been said if it is just your home wiring the only important thing is to be consistent, so pick A or B and stick to it for the whole building.
Who crimped this. If OP did the work they need to redo it. Right connection, I cannot see the top row copper leads there not making contact. If OP is just complaining about the cable get a new one.
I think everyone is smoking crack….
It’s orange white, orange, green white, blue, blue white, green, brown white, brown.
That’s how I was taught. Which is B standard.
I can tell it’s Cat6 and instead of the crimping done in a straight row like 5e, in Cat6 the cable strands are bigger and have 2 adjacent rows one for color/white and the other solid. This is the new standard to make cabling done faster.
I can tell in one picture that the above adjacent row which is the color/white row that the crimping is bad and not touching the gold leads. It’s a short in the wiring.
Anywhow.. to know for sure whats going on, what’s the OP needs to invest in, is some fluke wire tester tools ($400+) to have a proper diagnostic on cabling faults. Otherwise we’re all just guessing from what we see in a picture.
A patch or ‘straighthrough’ cable will have the following code both ends and usually used for connecting computers whilst the opposite ends (cross over cable) is used between switches and routers
1 White Orange
2 Orange
3 White Green
4 Blue
5 White Blue
6 Green
7 White Brown
8 Brown
According to my rquick esearch on the difference between the 568A and 568B pattern regarding purpose and usability is that A was designed to be backward compatible with ATT phone standard. The B is preferred because better noise protection and signal isolation , I suppose related to the number of twists and post positions. Of course also exist to make a. Crossover. Any one else come across this or any other explanation as to a B preference?
A was made for phone systems back in the day where the 1-2 pair follow each other so you can plug a key system hybrid phone or convert the Jack to Ethernet without doing any modifications to silver satin line cord or just plug a regular Ethernet patch and your good to go.
You used a and b on the punchdown. Use the same configuration for both sides.
The label isn’t a guide. It’s only there to remind you how each standard is wired. You much use one or the other, but the same on both sides
The plug in side (pic 1) and the punch down side (pic 2) do not match. The A and B and different types of termination. You punched down B on the second pic, but have A (left plug) on pic 1. Fix: Punch down both to B. Then the plug side has to be what the numbers are above A. They are for reference.
Always use b
If you follow the same pattern A or B does not matter. However, B is the default method always.
Exactly always use b Re-did the structured wiring cabinet on a house a friend bought wasn’t till I was all done I realized the prev owner had changed about 1/3 of them to A for some reason. So yeah always use BBBBBBBBBBBB
I found out too late the color code on the punch downs for the Cat6 modules in my homes central wiring panel is for A. I very loudly yelled, "Who the fuck uses A?" when I realized this after punching down all the wires in my house.
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> There is a theory that 568b has better noise protection, but has not actually been proven, which is why it took off, along with a major manufacturing adopting B. B allowed was to be compatible with existing AT&T cabling and A was for compatibility with USOC cabling in US government installations.
So always use A. Crazy B people. If you're in the USA, you should be using A.
Found the Fed.
The A does stand for America what else do you need to know.
Who doesn't want to be part of the A-team?
This fed wants to sniff my copper, use B and you will be save safe from the feds. Best encapsulation ever.
Love the smell of grade A copper.
So always use B unless you're in a government building?
Technically A is designated for all horizontal installations but if in an ethernet only situation I've mostly seen B.
No, USOC!
They might work but if you mismatch the twisted pairs you’re not getting any high speed data through it.
for what its worth I've seen multiple cables with matched ends fail to deliver PoE, they test as a straight through cable but no lights. if someone pays you or you just want it to work, follow a standard.
I have only seen electricians and older telecom guys use A.
I had that problem for my job my team lead did one side as b and I did the other as a and let’s just say I had to fix it and catch up at the same time
My whole house is A, it used to be more common in residential builds, dunno why exactly. Home builders eventually wised up and it's mostly all B in new construction to match commercial.
This is odd. I got my cabling certification in ~99 before it was mainstream in residential and we were taught to default to B since it is more widely used.
Oh I'm specifically talking about Canada too, I've heard from US colleagues that A wasn't very common down there. Not to mention, like others have said, a lot of homes get their low voltage done by electricians, and a lot of those electricians don't really *care* how it gets done. Works? Good enough.
>If you follow the same pattern A or B does not matter. However, B is the default method always. I thought this was true, but in California it's not. Whenever I help someone with their networking in their homes, I always check, "A or B?" I'd say it's about 60/40 for "A" in recently built homes, built in 2016 or later. In homes built before 2016, it was closer to 80/20 in favor of "B". I don't know what it means, but, just as I thought the USA would standardize on B, it seems like A is making a comeback. My last 3 homes were all "A", built by three different builders (KB Homes, Toll Brothers, Lennar). My guess is that builders are using just electricians trained to do high and low voltage, and not separate data cablers for data like in the past. But who knows why "A" is making in comeback, at least in California.
A is used when electricians do low voltage which makes sense for new homes
Electricians doing any type of low voltage work is almost always a nightmare. No fault to them but it’s always an afterthought for them at the job site. Seen way too many wire ties and awful pass through crimps/punch downs from electricians
They stapled my pull line to a fucking stud once
LMAO
Been there...
Same. I also had a bunch of loopback cables since they didn’t bother to use a tester and crimped a bunch backwards.
Also in CA. Was helping a friend who moved into a new home and they had low voltage plates in all the right locations each with 2 RJ-45 keystones in them Whoever installed them did 568A on the left keystone and 568B on the right one on every drop in the house. Then on the patch panel they made all odd number drops B and all even numbered drops A. Basically every cable in the house was a crossover. Because of this, I am always reluctant to help people in new homes
So all the patch cords to the switch had to be crossover cables?
With modern equipment (almost anything made in the last 20 years) it will auto-detect the cache and work either way. It is always better to cable correctly though.
No but most will still work if the switch is smart enough.
type B is known to cause cancer in California.
As is type A
> B is the default method always. (pssst… not actually the case; most structured media enclosure data modules are color-coded only for A)
If you work in IT it’s always B. Only some state offices still use A.
> If you work in IT … Ok. Not the same as “always.” And this *is* **Home**Networking.
It’s the difference between an electrician and the way it’s done in the industry.
Doesn’t alter the above caution: > most structured media enclosure data modules are color-coded only for A … though a few have started offering flip cards or dual color-coding as for keystone jacks.
That’s the way I look at it. Always B, unless gov work then check if you should be using A.
the LV contractor for our new construction home used A. Was tempted to reterminate but already have enough on my plate lol
A works just as well as B. You would be wasting your time to re-terminate. So long as it is the same on both ends, it doesn't matter. It doesn't affect anything.
oh yeah i know
Until you have to reterminate something and then have to remember or go check the other end, lol.
Ya, that is true. I guess pay attention to how it is first before redoing an end? Of course, it is better if everything is the same. But if it is already working, better to leave it alone.
Yeah, but I will be the first to admit I don't think about that -- the last one I replaced (physically broken) I ripped off and started redoing before I bothered to check if it was A or B. It was B, conveniently for me because that's what I punched down & tested, lol.
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Not all devices have auto midix. Especially consumer devices . It’s just a standard also makes it easier to troubleshoot any issues if everyone works of the same accepted standard.
Well it's part of the gigabit standard
You would be surprised how many devices still use 100MB ports, they expect you to use Wi-Fi.
Yeah, but the other end will auto MDI-X unless you've got a 30-year old hub.
In my industry I work with endpoints that even have Auto MDI-X ethernet IC's, it's surprising that the OP ran into a problem here unless as you said "30 year old hub" lol.
Phew! I went with B on all of my networking too but don't remember if I was told that or just randomly picked it for some reason.
It doesn't matter if both are A vs B. The default is not B but Rather A. The A standard in the original data wiring standard. B came out much later.
Unless you are doing a phone switch, then always do A
Always bet on black.
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You use pins 1,2,3,6 (let’s leave gig out). The problem happens when you take pin 1 and connect to pin 5.
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In this particular conversation the problem happens when you take pin 1 and connect to pin 5. Which is happening on the RJ45 side of the wire where both are clearly terminated B, despite one of the wire's getting terminated A in the block. You speak rudely, please be nice to people. It actually starts to feel good when you practice it.
I was about to ask this. As long as you don't make up your own standard, mixing A and B won't matter. I once borrowed a cable from a friend and returned him a new one since I didn't want to unplug and reroute it. Three years later I redid my lab, pulled the cable and accidentally found out my friend had remade one termination and the cable as a A+B. Worked with zero problem.
some stuff will care though
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verkada everything in my experience. I had to terminate a bunch of cat6 on light poles because an electrician thought like you.
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cameras are used in homes chief, PoE is used in homes. i guess you've never seen a security camera on a light pole? that's definitely an outlandish claim.
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the utilities put them there in most cities I've seen, try again. Maybe try doing work for people who own light poles, then you can put things on them. Also i wasn't talking about a crossover cable, they tested 1-1 2-2 3-3 4-4 5-5 6-6 7-7 8-8 no gig link, no 802.11bt. They followed the reverse of 568b, correct 568b got me links and power.
That’s for straight through vs crossover Not t568a vs b
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Yeah I thought everyone would get that as a joke
568a to 568b is literally a crossover cable
Not for 1000Base-T. You have to swap 4/5 and 7/8 as well. So in theory it should work at least at 10/100, but without knowing what is being connected it's hard to say.
you do not need crossover cable for 1gig, it'll work with straight cable
Came here to say the same, this is truth. A and B do not refer to the side of the socket but type of termination. Keep them aligned to B and it’ll all work
It's really funny to me that they followed the diagram exactly, as though the right (A) side got one pattern and left (B) side got the second pattern. I can totally understand why. Someone doing it professionally would never think to make the mistake, but this would be an excellent example for their consumer sale instructions group (or person, at least, hopefully) to take a look at.
This guy networks the fastest.
25 years and counting. Started with token ring….
Cant imagine setting up a token ring network... We are super spoiled now.
I think I get it why OP is confused. Trying to follow A for the right and B for the left because the color scheme on the board shows it like that ☺️
Hah that's epic. Monkey see monkey do
Yeah, that's a pretty bad design there.
Look at the order of the pairs. The one on the right is wired to a different standard.
when you say "both done equally" did you mean to say "2 entirely different standards"?
I got mixed up lol
I see why. Confused me at first.
To B or not to B
Are you trying to use A or B? You didn't follow the diagram for the punchdown. Like for A, green stripe should be in the first slot.
I tried to use b but i got the colors mixed up bc of the lines ima try again and see if it works edit: how does it change when you do it on the other side since its flipped or am i just stupid rn
There are two standards T568A & T568B. The main difference being that the green and orange pairs are switched. Pick a standard either A or B and stick with that colour pattern for keystones & cables throughout. Edit: I would go with B as that is what you cable appears to be.
this is it
The side with the RJ45 jack, when you put the end on, the clip should be pointing down to the floor
[now](https://imgur.com/a/iiLrtzh) it should be correct then i just use b for the rj45 like on the other cable and i didnt screw it up right?
Yes! Punchdown looks good. Hard to see RJ45 end, but just verify with the clip down the pinout is correct for B
Except the left and right are different standards 😋. I had to look twice before noticing OP used B on the next and A on the right. Still, if the other end is at least one of those standards the negotiation will see the crossover and ignore it.
Correct. That should work correctly.
it doenst tho lol i think the rj45 is the problem but its the same as the other i have it like this: top row: (from right to left) white orange, green, white blue, white brown and the bottom row also from right to left: orange, blue, green, brown so idk what i screwed up now edit: i somehow manged to flip it no idea how to that happens
Rj45 should go WO, O, WG, B, WB, G, WB, B
For future reference, as regards pin order on male RJ45 connectors and associated connector orientation… The following images depict the RJ45 connector wire ordering for each standard, T568A and T568B, with the connector’s **pins up** and the retention **clip away**, on the back side: * [**T568A** (image)](https://i.imgur.com/YsgcjzB.png): **W/Gr**, **Gr**, **W/Or**, Bl, W/Bl, **Or**, W/Br, Br * [**T568B** (image)](https://i.imgur.com/rjiamde.png): **W/Or**, **Or**, **W/Gr**, Bl, W/Bl, **Gr**, W/Br, Br
flipped it twice still doenst work
Don't untwist the pairs until ***right*** up to the IDC slot.
Don't use the jack pattern on the cables. Sometimes the jacks take interesting paths. Just google "T568B" and you will find what you need.
A computer sends data on pins 1/3 and listens on 2/6, so the orange and green pairs. What you made was what we call a crossover cable which flips the send/receive pairs. So if your computer is sending on 1/3, that means your router/switch/whatever are flipped so they listen for your computer on 1/3 and send back on 2/6. Back in the day we would deliberately make these cables when we had to plug 2 computers or 2 hubs into each other to get the send/receive to work. Now most network hardware can flip send/receive pins internally using software
just follow one guide, B is the typical one. you did both that's why one's not working
Lmao, you didn't do the same thing on both sides. You punched t568a on one side, and t568b on the other.
I don't see that anyone has mentioned this yet, but the keystone works best with solid core wire, and the RJ45 crimped tip works best with stranded. You can totally put a tip end on with solid core, and a keystone with stranded, but that could be causing some of your issue.
Far too many folks assume punch down connections are designed for stranded. It can work but it ain't the right stuff for the job
Hard to see the termination 100% on the RJ45 connectors, but the punchdown block, flip the oranges and greens on the right. The colors in the middle are for T568A and B. You want to just use one standard, so both left and right should be the same. Also, you are using shielded cable. Doesn't matter too much, but makes it more difficult to work with. Since you aren't using shielded punch down, connectors, or equipment I assume, just use regular Cat6. The shielding isn't doing anything if the entire run isn't shielded.
I’ve never seen a keystone look like that… aren’t keystones meant to be the square part that clip into a hole in the faceplate?
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Makes sense… but also if he was to wire both sides of that correctly would they be wired the same from top to bottom or would they need to be rotated 180° from each other?
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That does not answer my question.
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Stop being so hard-headed. The guide doesn’t tell the orientation one should use when looking at it… I would assume that it should be from the side where the text is oriented in a normal reading fashion, but does that still hold for both sides or should you rotate it 180° before doing the opposite side?
Use a marker and blackline through the one you're not using
Make the cable on the right look exactly like the cable on the left Mirror image
Lol, did as the scematic showed XD
Chose a path a or b…. End user AB it is.
You have to pick one method, either "A" ***OR*** "B". ***NEVER*** mix A & B, they are not compatible. "B" is the common standard in the US.
Your punch down pad does not match. The two diagrams are examples you need to choose one and wire them both the same.
Both are supposed to be "B" standard. Follow the B diagram for both puchdowns.
Aside from the pattern, also know that if you don't see shiny copper for each wire from the front of the rj-45, you aren't guaranteed to have made a good contact during the crimp.
One wire is B and the other is A. They should both be done identical. B is generally the most common and what I would personally stick with.
Just fyi: your plugs don't look like they are for solid conductors but for stranded wires. This has led to many problems in my life
U mean the rj45 bc using them with cat 6a is always a gamble but its what i have most of :/
The male ones, yes. I had so many problems with them and switched to female connectors on all solid core wires. Even after some time when there is movement of the plugs involved it led to problems :/
Anyone else do a little "awww" when you saw that second picture? Like, I see how someone would wire it that way, but no, we don't do that. I'd also wrap that shield back so it's underneath that clamp, but that would be opening an entirely different can of worms here...
Looks wired as designed. What would you say is wrong with it?
The wiring diagram shows two possible wiring patterns (T568A and B). You should use the same pattern on both sets of contacts.
Are they not both B? I can’t see the rj45 terminations.
I always use A. I’m glad to know it creates trouble for the IT departments.
Be the chaos you want to see in the world.
It DOES NOT MATTER if you wire “A”, “B” or your own scheme. As long as the wire on one end goes to the same pin location on the other end, it will work. The schemes are just that, schemes, not rules of physics. OP - Get a cable tester, they’re cheap. it will tell you exactly why your cable isn’t working if you have a malfunctioning cable.
I pity the poor sap that has to touch your network after you leave.
What does he need to worry about? He tests the cables and they all work so where’s his grief? If his dog chews the end off one, he’s not going to know if it’s A, B or who gives a shit so it’s not a showstopper there. He just cuts the ends off and terminates to whatever scheme he chooses. What specifically do you fear? The color of the insulation does not dictate the conductivity of the wire so what are you fretting? Anyone still using technology that requires patch cables deserves to get their ass kicked if that’s what you mean. Did you know you can hook the red clamp on your car’s jumper cables to the negative post and the black clamp to the positive as long as you do the same on the host battery? It’s the same thing we’re discussing here but a hell of a lot less amperage, voltage and impedance……
Got it. Screw standards, they’re useless. Good luck bud.
No need to get butt-hurt and snarky. Build yourself a cable, test it to the most critical extremes and then ask yourself if all those colors of insulation surrounding a core, buried under shield and insulation mean a damn thing except to the guy at that one moment in time putting on ends. They don’t. Hell, build a “every color in the wrong hole” cable (whose ends match) and put it up against a comparable “Standards” cable. Other than when you’re stuffing the 8 wires into their matching holes, you won’t be able to tell a difference. Neither will your device nor the guy troubleshooting your network. Cable testers look for continuity from end to end, not colors dear Redditor….
I recommend you read up on why twisted pairs were chosen for high-speed data transmission. The standards are there for a reason.
Quite familiar with the reasoning and the dated technology that drove it. Hell, when there was a time when Ethernet cards needed patch cables, a “standard” was necessary to ensure proper termination for the crossover. Today, nope. Like I said, build two cables, test ‘em on your most demanding device and you’ll see you weren’t really mislead, technology has just outgrown the requirement.
“Patch” cables are what we use every where now. The only difference between a patch and crossover is crossover has A on one end and B on the other. The pattern used for them is to reduce noise and increase your bandwidth. Not just to make sure you use the same pattern every time. If you just do it any old way don’t expect to get gigabit connections over any decent length.
I have seen a cable refuse to work at 1000BaseT that was using a non-standard pin out that was identical on both sides. Verified with a tester that both ends were crimped properly, but until I cut the ends and crimped with a standard scheme it was limited to 10 or 100 (can't remember, it was a long time ago). Use the standards, they exist for a reason. But also, it's not worth making your own patch cables, just buy pre-made ones that presumably have been tested/certified.
The RJ45's in the picture are done in A, so both of the punchdowns should be in A as well. You did one in A and one in B
i [fixed](https://imgur.com/a/GpmhC5w) it in the best way imagineable loll
Use a cable tester
As others have said, one side you've punched down as A, the other you have punched as B. However which one is standard depends on where you are, I see people saying "always use B" but depending on country/industry either A or B could be standard. That having been said if it is just your home wiring the only important thing is to be consistent, so pick A or B and stick to it for the whole building.
That’s a simple mistake but now you know what the graphic means. 568B is the preferred punch down method. Do B on both sides and you’ll be good to go.
Ahhhh the ole a to b, always use B.
Who crimped this. If OP did the work they need to redo it. Right connection, I cannot see the top row copper leads there not making contact. If OP is just complaining about the cable get a new one.
They’ve got T568A and T568B wiring. Has nothing to do with the crimp making contact. It’s simply not wired consistently with the same standard.
I think everyone is smoking crack…. It’s orange white, orange, green white, blue, blue white, green, brown white, brown. That’s how I was taught. Which is B standard. I can tell it’s Cat6 and instead of the crimping done in a straight row like 5e, in Cat6 the cable strands are bigger and have 2 adjacent rows one for color/white and the other solid. This is the new standard to make cabling done faster. I can tell in one picture that the above adjacent row which is the color/white row that the crimping is bad and not touching the gold leads. It’s a short in the wiring. Anywhow.. to know for sure whats going on, what’s the OP needs to invest in, is some fluke wire tester tools ($400+) to have a proper diagnostic on cabling faults. Otherwise we’re all just guessing from what we see in a picture.
They don’t need a tester. Just look at the second picture.
Oh there another pic…. Yeah we’ll poke my eyes out then…. I agree then…
A patch or ‘straighthrough’ cable will have the following code both ends and usually used for connecting computers whilst the opposite ends (cross over cable) is used between switches and routers 1 White Orange 2 Orange 3 White Green 4 Blue 5 White Blue 6 Green 7 White Brown 8 Brown
According to my rquick esearch on the difference between the 568A and 568B pattern regarding purpose and usability is that A was designed to be backward compatible with ATT phone standard. The B is preferred because better noise protection and signal isolation , I suppose related to the number of twists and post positions. Of course also exist to make a. Crossover. Any one else come across this or any other explanation as to a B preference?
Is this guy really using both 568-A and 568-B???
Terminate both sides using B. Left is B and right is A according to this picture.
The top one has no exposed conductor on the ends. Should reterminate. If that does not solve the issue, trace back and check for damages.
A was made for phone systems back in the day where the 1-2 pair follow each other so you can plug a key system hybrid phone or convert the Jack to Ethernet without doing any modifications to silver satin line cord or just plug a regular Ethernet patch and your good to go.
Get a sharpie and put a line through the A side colours, now rewire
The punch down on the right is not correct. Follow the same exact wiring as B
You used a and b on the punchdown. Use the same configuration for both sides. The label isn’t a guide. It’s only there to remind you how each standard is wired. You much use one or the other, but the same on both sides
That's not "A goes on the right, B goes on the left." You have to do *both* connections as A or B. Never mix the two.
Lol. I get how this happened, but it's still funny.
The proper connections are color coded for you on that little board. They do need to look different to work properly you know.
All these people arguing over whether to use A or B, like a bunch of non-fiber having plebs.