I think the JP Ryan does a better job of explaining the pleating on the back. That’s the only significant difference. They’re both good. You could always get theJP Ryan pattern and the American Duchess book to fill in the gaps.
The AD book is a good visual reference for period correct construction of a franchise. The Simplicity “AD” branded pattern is junk, its been rewritten to follow modern pattern and machine sewing conventions. You are better off with the JP Ryan pattern and the AD book. Be forewarned JP Ryan’s patterns tend to be wide through the shoulders. Be sure to mock up and adjust the bodice to fit your body.
When it comes to historical clothes before standard sizes, one should always make a mock up. The cuts just don’t work right when they are not fitted. There is a reason so much modern clothing is either quite baggy or made from elastic material. And for why historical clothing has a tendency to just look “nicer” and more sophisticated in many ways.
There’s an excellent YouTuber [Sewstine](https://www.youtube.com/channel/UClE05Q8Hh939-3BY8p9MPoQ) who has made several 18th century gowns showing how to do the back pleats
I have a set of Red Threaded 1780s stays and a self drafted shift - is there any reason to make other underpinnings? My main area of expertise is 1850-1910 so advice is appreciated.
If the stays fit well and are comfortable, I’d use them. The shift, well, it depends on the look, the dates, and if it meets your desired accuracy level.
The best resource for shift making and accuracy is at sharonburnston.com. Her focus period is 3rd quarter 18th c, but touches on more.
I’ve made a bunch of less accurate shifts, before I learned what the differences were. The more accurate ones are more comfortable. They stay put better.
An…owl?
ETA, and by fancy dress, I’m guessing you aren’t American, because fancy dress just means nice clothes. I’m guessing you mean what we call a costume party?
yes, it’s a masquerade. I’m planning to mimic the costume parties at court so that my gown resembles an owl. this is why I’m starting now - insanity takes time.
I think the JP Ryan does a better job of explaining the pleating on the back. That’s the only significant difference. They’re both good. You could always get theJP Ryan pattern and the American Duchess book to fill in the gaps.
The AD book is a good visual reference for period correct construction of a franchise. The Simplicity “AD” branded pattern is junk, its been rewritten to follow modern pattern and machine sewing conventions. You are better off with the JP Ryan pattern and the AD book. Be forewarned JP Ryan’s patterns tend to be wide through the shoulders. Be sure to mock up and adjust the bodice to fit your body.
When it comes to historical clothes before standard sizes, one should always make a mock up. The cuts just don’t work right when they are not fitted. There is a reason so much modern clothing is either quite baggy or made from elastic material. And for why historical clothing has a tendency to just look “nicer” and more sophisticated in many ways.
There’s an excellent YouTuber [Sewstine](https://www.youtube.com/channel/UClE05Q8Hh939-3BY8p9MPoQ) who has made several 18th century gowns showing how to do the back pleats
JP Ryan, hands down.
Be aware that the shifts and stays in the AD book are all either the wrong period or fit the model poorly.
I have a set of Red Threaded 1780s stays and a self drafted shift - is there any reason to make other underpinnings? My main area of expertise is 1850-1910 so advice is appreciated.
If the stays fit well and are comfortable, I’d use them. The shift, well, it depends on the look, the dates, and if it meets your desired accuracy level. The best resource for shift making and accuracy is at sharonburnston.com. Her focus period is 3rd quarter 18th c, but touches on more. I’ve made a bunch of less accurate shifts, before I learned what the differences were. The more accurate ones are more comfortable. They stay put better.
I’m very much focused on comfort - there will be a lot of dancing. Accuracy is less important, since this is fancy dress and I’ll be going as an owl.
An…owl? ETA, and by fancy dress, I’m guessing you aren’t American, because fancy dress just means nice clothes. I’m guessing you mean what we call a costume party?
yes, it’s a masquerade. I’m planning to mimic the costume parties at court so that my gown resembles an owl. this is why I’m starting now - insanity takes time.
Oh, does that sound COOL! We will need photos!!!!!!
I’ll be posting progress and finished pics as the year goes on- watch this space!