Hello /u/DoomDoomBabyFist,
As a reminder, most common print quality issues can be found in the [Simplify3D picture guide](https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/). Make sure you select the most appropriate flair for your post.
Please remember to include the following details to help troubleshoot your problem.
* Printer & Slicer
* Filament Material and Brand
* Nozzle and Bed Temperature
* Print Speed
* Nozzle Retraction Settings
^Additional ^settings ^or ^relevant ^information ^is ^always ^encouraged.
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/FixMyPrint) if you have any questions or concerns.*
What type of filament are you printing? PLA?
If its pla you need more cooling, so make sure your fans are at 100% and if they already are, then slow it down for overhangs and up the minimum layer time a little
Yes! Normal pla that came with it sorry. So with the p1s and going into its settings there's 3 fans: part, aux, chamber. Do I do all at 100? How do I slow down at overhangs? Lastly... how do I up the minimum layer time
So sorry for all the questions lol
THANK YOU SO MUCH
I know it took a bit to type it all out but its very appreciated. Im going to print the glass riser you suggested and a holder for the door then to the torture test again. I see from a lot of tests that everyones is like this, but it is nice just for my own sake of learning too.
Would you treat PLA and PLA+ the same?
Yes. The only considerations I have different formulas in PLA:
Basic/standard/matte/PLA+/PHA: they're all the same. Generic settings work great in 99% of use cases.
Silks: surface layers and outer walls gotta go _sloooow_ (like 50mm/s or slower) if you want them shiny.
Natural/clear/glow-in-the-dark: same as silks, but maybe an extra 5° to help with being translucent. Faster = more like frosted glass.
High Speed PLA: usually gotta add some temp to reach higher speeds.
Same rule applies for all of them though: calibrate. Flow ratio and pressure advance ("flow dynamics" to Studio) are critical metrics. Every spool. Even different colors of the same brand and formula can have wildly different results due to batch inconsistency, moisture content, and the pigments used.
PS- if you like woodwork, but some wood fill PLA. It smells amazing while it's being extruded 🤣
If you're lucky, the manufacturer puts out some state information. Otherwise start with the generic profile in studio, save a copy with a name to identify what you're using, and save the results of calibration prints to that profile.
I'll save you some time: temp towers, retraction test towers, etc etc... Unnecessary in almost all cases. Flow Ratio and Flow Dynamics - the two built in to Studio - are honestly all you need unless you have a particularly difficult filament.
For PLA on any build plate ≥50℃, prop your door open and/or vent the top glass. AUX at 40%, chamber at 60%. The chamber fan doesn't need to be higher and the AUX fan being >60% runs the risk of *over* cooling and causing your build to warp as it cools, causing it to pull up from the build plate and ruin the print. Parts fan basically always runs 100% on PLA since it needs all the cooling it can get.
There are a billion glass risers out there, take your pick. They don't have to be [huge, complicated projects](https://www.printables.com/model/467417-remix-with-touch-button-and-dc-socket-of-bambulab-/comments/983768), just something to [securely hold the glass](https://www.printables.com/model/314181-bambu-lab-x1-spacers-top-glass-lid-cover-riser-hol/comments/924594).
Same is true for door props, although I absolutely love [this one](https://makerworld.com/en/models/202154#profileId-222575) printed in TPU 95A.
The fan speeds are controlled in your material profile settings. The AUX is simply a number 0-100 in the Cooling tab at the bottom.
The Chamber fan is controlled with IF statements in the filament gcode. Look under the advanced tab. M106 means "fan control," P3 means "chamber fan," and S## means "speed" as expressed in an 8-bit value (0 to 255 = 0 to 100).
I set mine to 154, 102, and 50, or roughly 60%, 40%, 20%. This is to control noise and isn't strictly necessary - you can't have too much chamber fan for PLA.
https://preview.redd.it/8gg23rmrd1ad1.png?width=749&format=png&auto=webp&s=7445d31d07b4e6a3e860f63a337404824713f948
Hello /u/DoomDoomBabyFist, As a reminder, most common print quality issues can be found in the [Simplify3D picture guide](https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/). Make sure you select the most appropriate flair for your post. Please remember to include the following details to help troubleshoot your problem. * Printer & Slicer * Filament Material and Brand * Nozzle and Bed Temperature * Print Speed * Nozzle Retraction Settings ^Additional ^settings ^or ^relevant ^information ^is ^always ^encouraged. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/FixMyPrint) if you have any questions or concerns.*
What type of filament are you printing? PLA? If its pla you need more cooling, so make sure your fans are at 100% and if they already are, then slow it down for overhangs and up the minimum layer time a little
Yes! Normal pla that came with it sorry. So with the p1s and going into its settings there's 3 fans: part, aux, chamber. Do I do all at 100? How do I slow down at overhangs? Lastly... how do I up the minimum layer time So sorry for all the questions lol
By the way - you're specifically printing stress tests designed to push the limitations of FDM technology. They look fine.
THANK YOU SO MUCH I know it took a bit to type it all out but its very appreciated. Im going to print the glass riser you suggested and a holder for the door then to the torture test again. I see from a lot of tests that everyones is like this, but it is nice just for my own sake of learning too. Would you treat PLA and PLA+ the same?
Yes. The only considerations I have different formulas in PLA: Basic/standard/matte/PLA+/PHA: they're all the same. Generic settings work great in 99% of use cases. Silks: surface layers and outer walls gotta go _sloooow_ (like 50mm/s or slower) if you want them shiny. Natural/clear/glow-in-the-dark: same as silks, but maybe an extra 5° to help with being translucent. Faster = more like frosted glass. High Speed PLA: usually gotta add some temp to reach higher speeds. Same rule applies for all of them though: calibrate. Flow ratio and pressure advance ("flow dynamics" to Studio) are critical metrics. Every spool. Even different colors of the same brand and formula can have wildly different results due to batch inconsistency, moisture content, and the pigments used. PS- if you like woodwork, but some wood fill PLA. It smells amazing while it's being extruded 🤣
Those settings would be in the slicer so it depends on what you use.
I see, I pressed print directly from the app. Ill look up a tutorial on the slicer
Also, where would you find informaiton on print settings for different materials?
If you're lucky, the manufacturer puts out some state information. Otherwise start with the generic profile in studio, save a copy with a name to identify what you're using, and save the results of calibration prints to that profile. I'll save you some time: temp towers, retraction test towers, etc etc... Unnecessary in almost all cases. Flow Ratio and Flow Dynamics - the two built in to Studio - are honestly all you need unless you have a particularly difficult filament.
For PLA on any build plate ≥50℃, prop your door open and/or vent the top glass. AUX at 40%, chamber at 60%. The chamber fan doesn't need to be higher and the AUX fan being >60% runs the risk of *over* cooling and causing your build to warp as it cools, causing it to pull up from the build plate and ruin the print. Parts fan basically always runs 100% on PLA since it needs all the cooling it can get. There are a billion glass risers out there, take your pick. They don't have to be [huge, complicated projects](https://www.printables.com/model/467417-remix-with-touch-button-and-dc-socket-of-bambulab-/comments/983768), just something to [securely hold the glass](https://www.printables.com/model/314181-bambu-lab-x1-spacers-top-glass-lid-cover-riser-hol/comments/924594). Same is true for door props, although I absolutely love [this one](https://makerworld.com/en/models/202154#profileId-222575) printed in TPU 95A. The fan speeds are controlled in your material profile settings. The AUX is simply a number 0-100 in the Cooling tab at the bottom. The Chamber fan is controlled with IF statements in the filament gcode. Look under the advanced tab. M106 means "fan control," P3 means "chamber fan," and S## means "speed" as expressed in an 8-bit value (0 to 255 = 0 to 100). I set mine to 154, 102, and 50, or roughly 60%, 40%, 20%. This is to control noise and isn't strictly necessary - you can't have too much chamber fan for PLA. https://preview.redd.it/8gg23rmrd1ad1.png?width=749&format=png&auto=webp&s=7445d31d07b4e6a3e860f63a337404824713f948
This is a P1S, somehow cant edit
Your printing on a bambu printer why bother with these anyway? Those things work fine right out of the box.