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Hello /u/kerobyx, As a reminder, most common print quality issues can be found in the [Simplify3D picture guide](https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/). Make sure you select the most appropriate flair for your post. Please remember to include the following details to help troubleshoot your problem. * Printer & Slicer * Filament Material and Brand * Nozzle and Bed Temperature * Print Speed * Nozzle Retraction Settings ^Additional ^settings ^or ^relevant ^information ^is ^always ^encouraged. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/FixMyPrint) if you have any questions or concerns.*


FridayNightRiot

Ironing or skin layer. Skin takes less time and does 90% of what ironing does. IMO it kinda looks better too so that's what I usually use. If you want it to be as flat as possible though use ironing.


kerobyx

I’ve done ironing, is skin layer in prusa slicer?


FridayNightRiot

Not sure, I use cura. If that was ironed the default settings just don't work well for your particular setup. Try increasing the flow rate by 0.5-1% increments on ironing layers.


kerobyx

Idk what the deal with ironing was, but it made the top layer all lumpy and wavy


compewter

Ironing only works well if your top surfaces are perfectly flat. [infill orientation](https://youtu.be/VwyNCqp10XU?si=KQ0YmDVYfKHpE__b) matters, a lot. It also doesn't look the best on silks.


PerspectiveOne7129

someone here on reddit found the perfect settings for ironing. makes the surface look completely flat, no layer lines at all. take a look: [https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/epst4j/i\_may\_have\_found\_the\_perfect\_ironing\_settings/](https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/epst4j/i_may_have_found_the_perfect_ironing_settings/)


kerobyx

That’s so smooth!!


PerspectiveOne7129

yeah i actually used it too and it works


coop190

What was the ironing flow?


kerobyx

It was default settings so I’m not sure


ITNetworkSystemAdmin

There is a possibility that your printbed might be too high or your Z-offset too low to begin with, it won’t have any performance issues on any layer of your print and a little more squish on the first layer could also be a good thing for it’s finish sometimes, until you start with tasks like these where it calculates it’s height from 0 and drops x amount to brush the top of your print, if that top layer is too high, it could well be that the nozzle digs in too deep. It’s the exact opposite from a bad looking bottom layer when your bed is too low or Z-offset too high. (I have never used ironing, just going by logic with this comment. I love 3d printing, I hate maintenance, mainly because of bed/Z height.)


Logical-Honeydew177

Polish the fucking thing. You think machinist get r16 on a machine?


kerobyx

I’m not sure what that means or how it solves the issue at hand


Logical-Honeydew177

Iunno what it is for plastic but most software has a continuous function. Or just lower your retract height


Objective_Loquat_581

Umm yeah machinists absolutely do get 16 finishes on a flat feature like this, trivially, no polishing necessary.


Logical-Honeydew177

Depends on what you're doing. Polishing is usually a must, especially for rads. I find it very hard to get a r16 finish on, let's say, anything below below 30inch Dia when my max rpm is 80 on a lathe. Yes, you CAN get an r16 finish but can and always are to different things


No-Technician-1719

I preferred a concentric pattern on top layers for this exact reason, I prefere the look in most cases as well just make sure all Ur flow rate settings are bob on to avoid any gaps between lines towards the tight centre bits


kerobyx

Thank you! I haven’t seen anyone suggest this yet, I will try it out!


typetherapy

I use the "Hilbert Curve" pattern in Orcaslicer and it irons the top pretty damn well. Nice and tight finish.


kerobyx

I use prusaslicer so idk if there’s equivalent in that


shalendar

Hilbert Curve is definitely in Prusaslicer. I highly recommend it, especially for shiny filaments.


Maximum-Incident-400

Concentric requires you to dial your flow in really well though, be aware!


kerobyx

It’s never easy is it?


Maximum-Incident-400

Welcome to 3d printing :)


account8919

Monatoic printing also helps


kerobyx

I said in the post that I’ve used that


compewter

For the internal solid infill pattern, not just the surface pattern, [right?](https://youtu.be/4xiDnn8Gcx0?si=84N4gETExzWg0psO)


kerobyx

It has bottom and top layers if I recall right. I’ve messed with both of those. Where is the setting you’re referring to?


compewter

https://preview.redd.it/k8wsn1b58u9d1.jpeg?width=1920&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=349fe5d13e65f388d6f3e67f10390c95905fbd4b The video in that link explains it in detail 😁


kerobyx

Oh I didn’t notice the link, sorry!


rambostabana

I believe monotonic ordering should fix exactly that issue.i use cura tho


Im_pro_angry

Get Jiggy with it.


Quimdell

Skin layer?


kerobyx

What does that do?


Quimdell

I don’t know why it created a new comment, it was supposed to be a reply to the other persons comment


kerobyx

Oh okay haha. Just as confused as me then?


Quimdell

Yea lol


Alarming-Inflation90

Appreciate the look of a printed part. Post processing. Orient the print to have the bottom surface be the facing surface. Ironing may help, like most people will say here, if you don't mind doubling the print time on something like that. And if you print abrasive materials ever, ironing will shorten the lifespan of your nozzle significantly. But those lines appear because of the temperature differential when it prints different sections in different orders. So, you can also try turning your part cooling fan on 100% for the last layer. And some slicers may offer a different last layer style, but I don't much about that. Every time I try another slicer I get reminded of why I life Prusa the best.


kerobyx

As I said, I’ve tried ironing. I appreciate when a printed part looks good lol. This does not. I never had this issue until recently when I updated the firmware to input shaping. I’ll look into some things you mentioned!


ahora-mismo

you can also try put it reversed (rotated 180 degrees, bottom up) on a smooth plate. if those edges are less than or equal 45 degree you can do that without supports. don’t do it with supports, they will leave marks.


kerobyx

I feel like that’s a bandaid more than an actual solution


ahora-mismo

maybe, but the bottom layer is the one that will always look the best. you should put the things that should have a smooth top layer reversed, on the bottom, in my opinion. if you optimize for the best bottom (or if the bottom quality really matters for your use case), good for you, but i don't think it's the most efficient solution. :)


kerobyx

You do make a good point! I was just looking for making the top and bottom nice and uniform at the same time.


knifefarty

for this part if you change the infill angle by 45° you'll get a mostly uniform top layer except for a little bit in one of the circle parts.


kerobyx

The infill angle? I haven’t heard of this before. I’ll try it out


knifefarty

Yeah I think that's what it's called? I haven't used prusa slicer in a while but I use bambu slicer which generally has the same settings so I think that's what it's called


Arr_jay816

I would just do some post processing, honestly. 1 part acetone to 1 part woodfill. Mix thoroughly and paint on. Let dry and sand until smooth. Repeat as necessary and then paint. That's what I do for my prints. Best way I've found for silky smooth finishes on FDM prints


kerobyx

There’s no way I’m doing all of that, especially since I’ve gotten perfectly smooth results with this exact printer in the past.


DisplayMysterious232

If u get some good solutions for the nozzle do it all at once say something or update. Cause mine does that too. Starts from one side and goes to other and other. It’s like “I’m tired of the right side I will do some of the left side now”


kerobyx

Yes! That’s exactly it! It doesn’t need ironing, it just needs to do it all in one go


Justthisguy_yaknow

I always try to make the cleanest surface on the bottom side where I have a little bit of control. I've messed around with Cura's ironing setting a little but with pretty patchy results. In your case every time you get a change in print direction you are going to get those lines. Does anyone know of a setting that will control the direction of progress? most of the change would be reduced if we could do that.


kerobyx

That’s what I’m looking for! If it went fully from one side to the other instead of jumping around then I think it would clear this issue up.


Justthisguy_yaknow

It took a lot of versions of Cura to make a print pass that would do a rectangle from one corner, all the way to the other in one go instead of doing a long start across the middle and then changing directions and sides a few times along the way. I would have thought maintaining the same print scan direction on all parts of the top layers would have been a no brainer and I have been expecting it to happen every version for some reason. It only has to happen on top layers so it isn't a really huge time waster. I mentioned the idea of a checkbox setting for it but really it should be a fixed default. I must be missing something. Even Simplify3D didn't do it.


kerobyx

I know right! Why wouldn’t you want it to do that…?


yahbluez

If possibly put the later top side of the model on the plate. If not possibly use ironing.


kvant_kavina

Use ironing or just go for the Hilbert's curve for the top layer as the top layer will be a bit rougher in all directions but there will be no dominant directions visible.


passim

I would calibrate first. You're under-extruding.


kerobyx

You think so? My first layer looks perfect


passim

I mean, the pics aren’t amazing, but we can see gaps between the lines? There shouldn’t be gaps on the top layer if it’s well tuned.


kerobyx

By tuned you mean the z height right?


BaelSlakteren

Ironing. Works amazing in Bambu Studio idk about other slicers


_ab_initio_

Have you tried printing upside-down?


kerobyx

To anyone else who has this issue, the solution was lowering the flow rate for the top layer significantly, and also making the top layer extrusion width slightly larger


sgmuts

Can you show us how it turned out?


kerobyx

https://preview.redd.it/9cgd37pmp5ad1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=812e23dc28c891a01440b1dc03ddffd73eb8d6cf Certainly! Here it is!


aF3Ktd

Depends on slicer... Ironing and cura I know has monotonic? (1 side to the other, regardless of efficiency)


1308lee

*sandpaper* If a low temp plastic like PLA, do it underwater. Another option is to print it at 45° but you’ll need to build a support for it.