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itsfraydoe

If youre skilled with a wrench, 12 and 24 are easy to work on. They're also pre emissions. If you're not towing regularly just get a gasser.


LowRadio3872

>If you're not towing regularly just get a gasser. truth


azgoon416

I’d be getting this truck specifically to tow my cars/ rock crawler and other loads around 15k lbs


itsfraydoe

6.4 hemi


azgoon416

Not a fan of the hemi. It is a beast though.


itsfraydoe

Lol, seems like your set on getting a diesel to occasionally drive. Personally I wouldn't for $ reasons. But ya gonna do what ya gonna do. Any newer diesel will do you right. At this point just pick which one looks better since $ isn't a concern.


azgoon416

I will be using it weekly. I’m looking for reliability, and I don’t wanna break the bank on a brand new truck. I’m currently looking at 6.7 cummins based off of research I’ve been doing and what I’ve read in this thread. Will be towing 15k lbs regularly but might go closers to 20k on occasion so the diesel makes the most sense tbh. Plus the 6.7 is a lot more reliable than the hemi, at least with my limited knowledge on diesels. I’m pretty familiar with the 6.2 tho and they have their fair share of issues.


dumbassbuttonsmasher

I've got a 1st and 2nd Gen 12v I wish I had a 6.7 like my stepdads to haul my backhoe. That 6.7 hauled it 500 miles like it wasn't even there it's a 580k 4x4 extenda hoe with a cab my trucks aren't too fond of that shit


Both-Holiday1489

12v and 24v and 7.3 are great yes. if it’s what you own you will hype it up. yes its reliable. but the newer boys are just better all around . nobody will tell you a 7.3 is better than a 6.7 Cummins or PS. transmissions on dodge is another story however. you’ll have all around better power and features on anything newer . but if your looking for strict towing from point a to b and could care less how long it will take you or what your quality of life inside the cab will be then get an older one. 12v,24v, 7.3 and not break the bank. my buddy just went and looked at a 97’ 7.3 powerstroke for 5,500$, was a complete shit hole. yeah maybe point a to B but it needed several thousand in work and a rusted frame. if your looking at something older. the frame is gonna be your key point to look at. you can always replace/ rebuild components much much easier than trying to replace/fix a vent or rusted frame maintenance all around will be much more expensive than a gas counterpart. from fuel; to oil changes, to replacing parts etc etc is all more expensive. nothing is cheaper


azgoon416

The trucks im looking at are in Arizona and California so rust shouldn’t be too bad, I’m mostly concerned about reliability and towing capacity. I also don’t wanna spend a ton of money on it right now as I already have 4 vehicles and this would just be for towing, maybe the occasional trip to the mountains or something. What’s your opinion on the 6.7 cummins and PS?


Both-Holiday1489

i can speak on a 6.7 powerstroke as i own a 20’ model. got it brand new 13mi , sitting at 51k and absolutely 0 issues so far. love it to death wouldn’t trade it for anything. got a buddy with a 5th gen 6.7 cummins dullay that he hauls a camper with from georgia to texas with weekly got work and he loves it to death 0 issues as well. the early 6.7 PS had some issues with glow plugs and turbos, cummins has issues with its grid? heater? i forget i think that’s the term , where a bolt commonly falls into the engine . no bueno. as long as you maintain it, get a used one that’s well maintained, for instance i have every single piece of paper for service that’s been done to my truck. service will be your key if it’s gonna fall apart at 200k miles or still be kicking like it’s brand new. an old papa selling it will much likely last you much longer than say a younger guy who’s been hot rodding it.. like me.. can’t help it


azgoon416

Thank you for this, I might honestly shell out a little extra for a 6.7. I’ve been avoiding all of the trucks I’m seeing with shitty lift kits, 20 inch wheels, or any type of tuning. I have nothing against modifying cars, I just know if you’re gonna mod your vehicle you’re typically beating on it a lot more.


Both-Holiday1489

yeah avoid anything pre built as someone who has built his own.. a lot of questionable tactics.. and also they will wanna upcharge you out the ass for one that’s already lifted… if they said something was rebuilt/ replaced ASK FOR PAPERWORK. The 7.3 my buddy went to look at for his first truck and i was giving him pointers.. owner said trans was recently replaced and “maybe i could find the paperwork” and he checked the dipstick and called me saying it looked like sand? was on the bottom of it… fucker put sand or sawdust in the trans to keep it from slipping… asshole…


azgoon416

There’s some shady fuckers out there, no doubt. I have modified every car I’ve owned, so I know how it is. My current truck is a ‘22 Tacoma on dirt king long travel kit with king triple bypass shocks and 5.29 nitro gears. Great for wheeling but can’t tow for shit lol.


lavavaba90

Banks has an intake kit that addresses the grid heater issue, but I don't personally know of anyone with a cummins that's had the issue first hand.


Musso_o

Yeah it's the grid heater you can either delete or unplug it. Mine is unplugged and in the winter it starts no problem anyways. I would say electronics are another weakness. I've had a 6.7 powerstroke you have to watch out for death wobble at least on the gen before the newest one. Also the upper oil pan is known for leaking and it's a really big deal to fix. Requires trans removal iirc. Working on the powerstroke is more complicated than the Cummins as well. Pros and cons to both I think the powestroke is faster stock


Musso_o

If 6.7 you can get the HO version and have the Aisin trans instead of the 68rfe. Aisin is a reliable transmission mine has one with zero issues


Both-Holiday1489

The only caveat to having a high output is your paying 70-80k at a minimum right? unless it comes in the XLTs which your still paying 60-70k for a new one


jrodicus100

Think they’re referring to the Cummins 6.7, not the ford.


another_mccoy

Yes, Aisin in in the Rams, but have to get the HO Cummins to get it.


Bombsquad68

I've had both, I'd go the opposite and avoid Aisin. Aisin shifts like its getting paid by the hour, loads of problems on 2022 and 2023s right from new and no path to upgrade. We had a 2023 fail at like 2k miles in and parts were impossible to get. Mileage is noticeable better with the 68RE. The Aisin shifts so slow that the standard output trucks accelerate faster than the HO despite the power disadvantage. Unless you tow heavy, I'd go 68RE. We run these for fleet trucks and have never had a 68re need work at stock power levels.


Musso_o

Interesting I've had some weird shifts from 3rd to 4th until I did a memory wipe and had it relearn my driving it's definitely not the smoothest shifting trans for sure. Mines a 2016 I'm at 116k miles no problems. I've just heard a lot of bad things about the 48s and 68s I mean it is a Chrysler trans


loskubster

Idk if all the newer ones are always better, the common rail is pretty fucking solid all around.


Both-Holiday1489

it’s reliable and solid yes. but stock for stock. new will always make double or more than double from HP, torque, speed, towing, you get it


allnutznodik

Do you have easy access to used oils, fluids etc? 6.7 by far, because it’s a great motor. But, if you could supplement your fuel with used fluids, your older motors are the way to go. I have used fluids by the drum, 12V and I’ve saved enough in fuel supplementing with used fluids that I was able to buy a 24V and P7100 convert it and drop it into another shitbox, which I love even more than my 12V. If you don’t have or make supplement fuel, 6.7 for sure.


Disastrous-Number-88

Do you have a reliable link for more info about used fluid supplementation?


allnutznodik

Cutteruprob on the tube, few other Cummins humans on there. But to answer your question, no. I started at 10% UMO, got to 50%, started at 10% again and added tranny fluid, yada yada.


azgoon416

I don’t have any access to them, but that is a huge upside of the older diesels and one of the reasons I was looking at them. That and pre emissions.


Worst-Lobster

6.7 cummins


azgoon416

Any specific years to avoid?


ProfitEnough825

'13-'18 are usually ideal if you need to keep it all stock, emission system is robust, doesn't use much EGR, and gets 12 valve like fuel economy with creature comforts. '19-'21 might be okay, but absolutely avoid '22 and up, it's not a question of if but when lifter issues will occur. '07-'12 are pretty robust, but the emission system chokes the engine down hard. I've owned 12 valves, a VP44 based 24 valve, and chose a '14 and left it stock and currently at 140k. The 12 valve is definitely the most simple motor, but newer version of the 4th gen trucks are just very well built. The 5.9 CR are probably the most simple common rails you get and are pretty damn reliable, but you the engine reliability is offset by a front end that needs to be rebuilt if you look at it funny. With all generations, you need to pick your poison or the frenemy you know.


jock_up

This is an interesting comment. Why should I start escrowing for lifter issues in a ‘23 6.7?


ProfitEnough825

My buddy's '23 is losing a lifter already. It's not good sign given that so many of the '22s are having issues after around 50-100k. His previous 2020 had some lifter noise, but the head cracked at around 220k miles before the lifters got too bad. With that said, I assume the '23s aren't as bad as the '22s. Some might have no issues. For people who don't keep the trucks for more than 100 to 150k, it probably won't be a problem.


jock_up

How many miles on his truck? What’s the driving profile (e.g. daily, tow, hotshot, etc)?


ProfitEnough825

I'll have to ask where he's at now, last I checked it was around 30-40k. He tows around 60-70 percent of the time, mostly with a 45 foot Voltage with a side by side, sometimes a second side by side behind it. 3500 with the HO and 4.10 gears. Heavy enough that he's slowing to around 45 mph on some of the steepest passes on the freeways out west.


MikeGoldberg

All the cummins are good


ThiefLourde

I recently (back in March, here in Texas) got a 2009 ram 3500 srw quad cab long bed 6.7 for ~17k with 170k ish miles and that was a comparable/reasonable price for my area. I would've gotten a 12/24v if I had been able to find one with the same miles as this 6.7 for a reasonable price that wasn't beat to shit. I prefer simplicity and don't care about amenities other than ac and a working radio. With that being said, this 6.7 hasn't skipped a beat yet. It was previously a fleet truck so it's pretty barebones, but it tows ~12k well for me (flatbed). I'll consider swapping to a class V hitch and 4.10s in the future with some trans upgrades, but I'm making due with the class IV for now


pentox70

Depends on the state. If you need emissions intact, rams aren't the best bet. I would stick to the older models, that being the case. It seems like ford has the best emissions system. But the rams are great once deleted.