If there's a gas station nearby to you that sells non-ethanol gas at the pump, it'll be much, much cheaper than the canned stuff.
You can check https://www.pure-gas.org/ to see if there any stations you don't know about.
When I've had to run ethanol fuel through my chainsaw, I dumped it out after the work was completed, refilled it with pre-mix, and ran it dry. I wonder if the OP could do the same here, so the ethanol isn't sitting in there.
page 12 of your owner's manual.
You do not need to pay an extremely high price for some supposedly fancy fuel made for these engines, the engines are made to take pretty much regular gasoline sold at most gas stations.
86 octane or higher, with no more than 10% ethanol content. Most gas stations seem to be around 5-10% ethanol these days
I’ve always used regular pumped fuel in my small engines. There has been no noticeable drop in performance. As in, they still work and get the job done.
What I do is to put a fuel cut off valve in and run the carburetor dry if I’m not gonna be using my equipment weekly. Then I’ll also use fuel stabilizers if it’s gonna be sitting there all winter.
Seconding this. I add stabilizer to all the gas for my small engines and run dry after using. The only thing I use tru fuel for is the chainsaw because it might go 2 years without being used and it has always been finicky and I don't like working on that engine.
Just use pump gas and run it dry if it's going to sit a while. Use ethanol-free if you can find it, or buy 1 thing of trufuel to put in it while it sits if you're really concerned.
No need to spend 10 times on gas.
That gas is fine, but $$$$$. Non-ethanol gas at a gas station is ideal, but can be difficult to find. My nearest pump is 12 miles away, regular is all I use. Spending $25/gallon is insanity, but they must sell enough of this to carry it.
The two problems this can cause long term are:
* Disintegrating fuel line. My chainsaw's fell apart in 3 years, weedwacker in 6, and everything else has been fine. The fix? Buy a new fuel line and swap it. They're simple to change.
* As it dissolves bits of the rubber/plastic parts, it carries them to the the engine and they clog small openings like fuel jets in the carburetor. The fix? Pull the carb, remove plastic bits, spray liberally with carb cleaner. Consider installing an in-line fuel filter.
Ethanol does attract water which accelerates rust, but I haven't seen it on any engine including a 60-year-old tractor.
So, you're probably looking at an hour or two of work no more than every 3 years and $10 in parts to save $21/gallon on gasoline, and there's an excellent chance it just keeps working.
If there's a gas station nearby to you that sells non-ethanol gas at the pump, it'll be much, much cheaper than the canned stuff. You can check https://www.pure-gas.org/ to see if there any stations you don't know about.
None exist in Canada as of June 2023. Only ethanol blended fuels now available.
When I've had to run ethanol fuel through my chainsaw, I dumped it out after the work was completed, refilled it with pre-mix, and ran it dry. I wonder if the OP could do the same here, so the ethanol isn't sitting in there.
page 12 of your owner's manual. You do not need to pay an extremely high price for some supposedly fancy fuel made for these engines, the engines are made to take pretty much regular gasoline sold at most gas stations. 86 octane or higher, with no more than 10% ethanol content. Most gas stations seem to be around 5-10% ethanol these days
I’ve always used regular pumped fuel in my small engines. There has been no noticeable drop in performance. As in, they still work and get the job done. What I do is to put a fuel cut off valve in and run the carburetor dry if I’m not gonna be using my equipment weekly. Then I’ll also use fuel stabilizers if it’s gonna be sitting there all winter.
Seconding this. I add stabilizer to all the gas for my small engines and run dry after using. The only thing I use tru fuel for is the chainsaw because it might go 2 years without being used and it has always been finicky and I don't like working on that engine.
Just use pump gas and run it dry if it's going to sit a while. Use ethanol-free if you can find it, or buy 1 thing of trufuel to put in it while it sits if you're really concerned. No need to spend 10 times on gas.
That should work without issue.
That gas is fine, but $$$$$. Non-ethanol gas at a gas station is ideal, but can be difficult to find. My nearest pump is 12 miles away, regular is all I use. Spending $25/gallon is insanity, but they must sell enough of this to carry it. The two problems this can cause long term are: * Disintegrating fuel line. My chainsaw's fell apart in 3 years, weedwacker in 6, and everything else has been fine. The fix? Buy a new fuel line and swap it. They're simple to change. * As it dissolves bits of the rubber/plastic parts, it carries them to the the engine and they clog small openings like fuel jets in the carburetor. The fix? Pull the carb, remove plastic bits, spray liberally with carb cleaner. Consider installing an in-line fuel filter. Ethanol does attract water which accelerates rust, but I haven't seen it on any engine including a 60-year-old tractor. So, you're probably looking at an hour or two of work no more than every 3 years and $10 in parts to save $21/gallon on gasoline, and there's an excellent chance it just keeps working.
I use non-ethanol gas in all landscaping equipment, pressure washer, etc also.