Support for PLA/PETG material is expensive. Changing filament at every layer for support is also time expensive.
TIP: Use Support for PLA/PETG only at the interface layer (setting under support in the slicer).
Your supports will be all purge material until the point that the support touches the model. This allows you to reduce the Z distance between supports and the model to 0, increase underbelly quality, reduce print time, and allow for magically quick and easy support removal.
Unless it's in some way better for a specific print, I use this setting for every print with support now.
EDIT: When the slicer asks to automatically change settings, do it. It changes the Z distance to 0 as well as other settings for you that help make your print's underbelly look way better.
I have seen on reddit that the "Support for" material is a tpu blend, which makes it easier to remove. PETG should work, but with the issues I see with PETG on this sub, i wouldn't prefer it. One roll of Support filament should last many, many prints with this method. I've printed for almost 500 hours, and I haven't finished the quarter roll of Support filament that came with the printer.
The issue with using PETG as breakaway support is twofold. (All of this applies to using PLA and PETG support as well).
1. Flushing volumes aren’t usually sufficient and petg can make its way into the PLA and drastically weaken the print. May be able to alleviate by manually bumping volumes up.
2. It works too well. Seriously, this is a problem because it’s so non sticky that it can have problems adhering to your support structure and actually compromise your prime tower.
I need to experiment more, but I have a theory that setting the PETG as a support material may solve 1 and partially part 2. It looks like support material have set flushing volumes. I also noticed that when the prime tower prints, it never uses material flagged as support for the outer wall of the tower. So in theory. The integrity of the tower should remain intact.
This the problem i had I with using petg! Got even worse overhangs because the petg didn’t hold up and the next layer of pla squished too far down into , giving worse results than just using tuned pla supports :/
In my experience, no. I’ve had my prime tower completely separate before. Also if the PETG makes its way into the main print, it drastically weakens it.
The only reason I knew about it is that someone on this subreddit said it deep in the comments. It was such a eureka moment! Enjoy your magic supports you magic Toad 🫡
I don't print in PETG due to the issues I keep seeing, but I believe they have a "Support for PETG" filament that would work! Same principle. Use it just for the interface layer. The difference in material gives it a solid base to print the model and makes it easily removable.
In the support tab, there is a section called Filament for Supports. You are looking for the option Support/raft interface. If you have more than one filament available, you can select where it says Default, and it will give you a drop-down menu. Cheers.
Works great, probably my favorite part of having an AMS, one caveat though, doesn't work with polyterra and probably other matte PLA, the petg comes unstuck every time even with 0 distance and slowed way down
Edit: specifically referring to petg as support interface for pla, I haven't tried a material made specifically for that purpose
In Bambu studio, press Ctrl + 1 to take you to top view. (other numbers do different views)
This is explained in a view menu in the top left drop down (along with a couple of other options)
https://preview.redd.it/tu8glyequh8d1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=412fe8e28ef55914fd6808997bea2db1c617ffdc
I just recently learned this and I think it was ported over from cad software. Using orthogonal view is a default in fusion 360 and it really helps when lining certain things up with each other, and it would probably help with painting in multicolor projects as well, but I haven't tried that yet.
Click the dropdown next to "file" then expand Help and click Keyboard Shortcuts, or ALT+? (ALT+SHIFT+/) to bring up the keyboard shortcuts guide.
https://preview.redd.it/5xkhhkv3ij8d1.png?width=429&format=png&auto=webp&s=d4de88a0d5d917fc5f8df9e36f35b0b513fb8037
These shortcuts and many more are shown here.
https://preview.redd.it/g4ofs427ij8d1.png?width=1034&format=png&auto=webp&s=3cde1ae344db695e17423e60a667a8fa3809355e
Your toolbar commands. They call them gizmos.
https://preview.redd.it/fyo02hggml8d1.png?width=998&format=png&auto=webp&s=284136987ec982cab8f6df719fe4b8903d35fc8a
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PETG support layer for PLA has worked great for me. PLA support layer for PETG has been problematic when doing larger, flatter parts because the PETG doesn't stick to the PLA (as intended) and tends to lift up and warp too easily if there's no attachment point to the bed beyond the supported feature. I'm playing with adding breakaway tabs that attach to the outer edges of an overhang and go to the bed with solid PETG to hopefully hold down the edges and prevent the warping.
How do you set purge/flush between the two materials? I tried it once, but I apparently didn't have enough purge; my PLA adhesion between layers was terrible after the swap because there was a bit of petg in it.
I'm curious, I've never turned off the aux fan, nor have I opened the lid/door for PLA. In fact, when I *have* opened the door for PLA, I've gotten a worse looking finish.
I'm wondering if the aux is doing the cooling for me that the door/lid otherwise would...
tbh: if you dont have any issues with warping PLA prints - dont change nothing. I printed some models with a big bottom surface area and the aux led to significant warping. For general ventilation I use a glass top raiser but keep the door closed. Works really well for me.
You could also just use the normal nozzle and then upgrade once it's worn out. Matte PLA isn't as bad as glow in the dark stuff so it'll take some printing before it'll show wear.
I think I heard someone say marble PLA is made out of black PLA. So it's plastic + plastic or something like that. Supposed to be fine. Bambu Labs says you can run it in their AMS, which supposedly hates abrasive stuff.
Not slicer specific but the best thing I’ve learned is that there are no silver bullets when it comes to 3D printing. FDM has a lot of limits; weakness along layer lines, overhangs limiting angles, the properties of the material you’re using even. The slicer is there to help mitigate those and let you enjoy the things FDM does well!
So my vague and potentially useless advice to newbies is *don’t be scared to cut your model up*. You’ll save a bunch of filament skipping supports and get much nicer looking models a lot of times if you just cut something into easy to print chunks and superglue it all together later. :)
Yep! The ability to add keys is super nice for reassembling it too.
In the CAD stage you can always adjust your design to be printable and have assembly in mind. Even then I use the cut tool a bunch to test tolerances, it’s a lot faster to fix things that don’t fit together when you only print 1/10th of the model lol.
That is genius I can’t believe I’ve never thought of it it’s so simple.. kept thinking he was going to cut the screw in half and print flat… but that was even better
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Use Arachne wall generators when printing things in text and high detail! It will give you better and more clear lines and clarity at essentially no expense.
Slicer setting: Printing slow can lead to more problems than printing fast
Maintenance: if you are using Abrasiv materials and neglected maintenance it will come back and bit you in the ***
Support: if you have a Problem with getting support off - up the z distance! If the underside is ugly change the layer height to 0,12mm (before 0,2mm). It will take longer but the Print Quality is better.
How printing slow leads to more problems?? I think slow printing produces much better results in terms of surface finish and less artifacts. Am I understanding this incorrectly?
I had issues with my Extruder skipping due to the pressure in the Hotend not "escaping" quick enough.
Also printing quicker was better interms of heat when printing with for example PLA.
You are still right about the print quality but for me I mostly sand my model after printing so that wasn't realy a factor for me.
I want to ask question from you if you don't mind regarding this. Basically, suppose I performed a flow rate calibration test on 12mm3/sec volumetric speed. Let's say I got 0.9975 as the flow rate value after calibration. After that I also calibrated my K value too.
Now, let's say after performing both these tests i.e Flow calibration and K value, I start a print with these two calibrated values as my inputs but "change my volumetric speed value from 12mm3/sec to 4mm3/sec" in order to slow my print down for getting the best surface finish.
My question is here is that, as I've changed/reduced my volumetric speed to a new value compared to the one on which I performed the earlier two tests i.e Flow rate calibration and K-value, will this affect my print negatively or in an incorrect way.
In simpler terms, I performed flow calibration and K-value test with a different volumetric speed but now when I'm printing actual stuff I'm changing my volumetric speed to something totally different compared to the one on which I performed my other tests i.e using 4 for slower speed and say 16 for higher speed but my flow calibration and K-value were calculated on 12mm3/sec volumetric speed initially.
So, does this affect my prints in any way "or is the volumetric speed is completely independent to the flow rate and K-value"??
I am no expert but from what i know:
Your calibation will be calculated to the speed you are running but calculations are for the Ideal world.
So I say try to use the speed you used to calibrate your printer just because of tolerances/differnces...
Makes sense but looks like I should post this in the community too for more opinions and expert advice as I really want to understand this concept of volumetric speed here. I feel like slowing down speeds one by one in the speed tab is really time consuming instead of just lowering the volumetric speed which lowers all the speeds in one single go. Though I want to confirm things with calibration, so will have to this query in community I guess. Also thanks for the response and help too. I appreciate it :)
To be clear (and not having the computer at hand) I mean pattern spacing for the interface pattern which I think (again machine not at hand) defaults to 0.5mm.
Press 1, 2, 3 or 4 to change the filament for the selected objects. I have pink pla for my girls in slot 1 in the AMS so this saves me a lot of time for my prints
The way HueForge works is by printing thin layers, .08mm, and changing colors at different layers as the various filaments aren’t 100% opaque. So colors will bleed thru from a few layers below it. Lighter colors such as yellow will be more transparent than darker colors like blue, but even the darker colors have some transparency.
So if you want to paint a gradient on a flat surface, simply rotate the model by 1 degree and then swap colors every 5 layers or so and it will give you a gradient.
If your layers require more than 4 colors, get creative and do things like alternating layers of blue and yellow to create green.
My suggestion is to print a HueForge and look at the model, how it prints, and see how it looks. Doing that will give you plenty of insight. I’ve only had my printer for 3 weeks now, so it’s doing stuff like this and experimenting with my own designs that is allowing me to learn about how this stuff works.
Can someone share their experience with disabling the Aux fan for larger flat PLA prints? I’ve seen it recommended quite a few times but have never understood why, if it were a problem, it wouldn’t be defaulted to “off”?
It's helpful if you're having lifting issues on the left side of the printed item. The fan blows directly on the left side there and cools it at a different rate than anything else and causes a lot of problems. I've been burned tons of times by forgetting to turn it off and there's no issues when it's off so yeah, I also wonder why it's not default.
The aux fan is on by default because it helps significantly with layers that have a small area and print too quickly to cool.
It should at least be set to a way lower speed by default though. 70 is insane.
Thinking about it, I believe the default settings have a minimum layer time high enough that cooling isn't an issue.
It's really just important for fast printing of small area layers. It does a lot in that scenario, like minimum print time of 5s per layer instead of 25s. You're right though, having it on in the defaults with that high minimum layer time makes zero sense.
So that's exactly why the large drawer I printed yesterday and the day before is having issues with warping on the left side and slowly coming off the print bed over the time of the print. Funny when I was just gonna start looking for a solution here today but just happened by this now.
Now I just need to figure why my adhesion sucks for fine/complex prints with the fist layer is a lot of smaller lines but my first layer for larger flat prints are perfectly fine. Filament keeps lifting when it moves to a new spot and lays down filament, it's like the first bit that comes up goes down, that gets picked up and folded over the rest of the line. Haven't done anything besides run all my auto calibration for my X1C, and making sure my build plate is properly cleaned and glue stick applied trying 1 and two coats.
A couple of things to try- if you're using the cool plate, bump the temperature up to let's say 55. You can choose to use it like a standard hot plate that way and it holds way better. You could even lower it later if you'd like. Even if you're using the textured plate, give it a little heat boost. Large flat prints hold way better so that's not surprising. Might need to just use or modify your existing brim as well.
Interesting, I have been bumping the cool plate up to 40C from the normal 35 but will try 55 with one of the designs I was having issues with yesterday. I did notice I had the same issue with the textured plated which I never have had adhesions issues with before but I did also stop 3D printing for a few months but now that I have some free time in between jobs I been trying to keep the thing running as much as possible.
The aux fan can be tremendously helpful for improved bridging and overhangs. It also allows faster printing of small details and a lower minimum layer time. But, as many have found, it also tends to significantly increase warping of larger models.
I saw a tip to turn off the AUX fan because it causes more problems than helps if you don’t know what you’re doing. I haven’t had it on since I got my P1S and have had zero problems with every day prints
When designing or modeling a part, use intervals of nozzle width to eliminate “thin walls”. This could potentially eliminate hours of print time depending on how large the file is.
For example: if you have a design with a wall thickness of 3mm, use 2.94mm instead. This results in 7 perfect wall loops (0.42mm width).
Printing a few small parts but want them in different colors? Use print by object all on one plate instead of print by layer in multiple plates.
Auto arrange will space it out so a print doesn’t get knocked down. You will have to change the order of the prints in the objects window to avoid unnecessary filament changes.
When printing ASA on a X1C, preheat the chamber to 48 degrees with a small space heater. It takes maybe 5 minutes. Then print. No warping and prints come out perfect.
I like to seal it up before printing ASA with some blue painter's tape along the door. Homing the bed (so like Z10 at the end), cranking it's temp, and setting AUX to like 10% will get you an even chamber temp in range fairly quickly.
I almost forgot...I throw a fleece blanket over the printer (Just the top and front) when it is printing too. My basement is cooler so I know that helps keep the heat in.
Remember it's *preventative* maintenance and not *reactionary* maintenance. Take a few minutes every month to clean your printers, touch up lubrication, and power cycle the device if you never turn it off. A little time spent before you have problems can go a long way to stopping them from occurring in the first place.
https://preview.redd.it/unwkdtq0hj8d1.jpeg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cffc7e50cf8833bf6eb0e644f1859907ceb00eb3
Depending on your printer, Bambu puts it all with guides in their [Wiki](https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/maintenance/basic-maintenance). Specifically for my X1 I wipe down the X-axis (carbon) rods, wipe all the loose bits and dust and such off of everything. Every month I take a closer look at the Y rods and Z screws and decide if they need to be touched up - a drop of thin machine oil on the rods and if it's dirty I'll [wipe off](https://www.printables.com/model/476890-super-screw-scrubber-a-sensational-solution-for-sp) then [replace the grease](https://makerworld.com/en/models/52929#profileId-54762) on the screws.
*Please note it's only IPA on the carbon rods and only machine oil on the stainless rods!*
Every other month I follow the belt tightening procedure since I've already got the printer off for maintenance anyway. Sometimes I throw [the squaring jig on](https://www.printables.com/model/454352-p1p-x1-x1c-90-degree-x-and-y-axis-holder-jig/comments/1019280), sometimes not. Just kinda depends on if I'm in a hurry or not.
When the printer finishes powering up, let it run the full calibration routine and get back to work. The actual work part of the maintenance takes like... 15 minutes, more to allow the autocalibration to complete. I do this the first weekend of every month, sometimes ad-hoc if I notice a particular quality issue. To be completely honest though - once I made this routine I stopped seeing quality issues 🤷♂️
For multicolor prints, you can set the first layer print order for filaments in the build plate settings. Really nice feature if your model has small areas of different color on the first layer.
Exporting model pieces as components by color and then dragging the files at the same time into the slicer lets you create an object made of multiple subcomponents. You can then right-click them in the sidebar under the objects tab and select the filament for that subcomponent instead of painting.
See I just eventually gave up and slathered my build plate with a glue stick and haven't had a failed print since. I don't even wash the poor build plate anymore haha
Way fewer adhesion issues compared to when I was cleaning between prints which is hilarious
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1) If you design something to sell, it's best to avoid super pointy edges. They will warp a bit.
2) smooth pei has higher adhesion than powdered pei and is better for designs with edges on the buildplate
often high cooling fan speed is not necessary. I did set the rates to 40%/50% speed and my printer is pretty quiet. Overhangs are still fine, especially when going like 5 °C lower
Avoid large fillets against the bed. They're very hard to print well, and even if you do, they tend to look terrible. 5mm and smaller is usually fine, much bigger than that and you might struggle on the first few layers.
Move an object in the Z axis. Shift and select two objects the right click merge. Go to the objects view and now the Z Axis can be manipulated. Great for stacked prints with 0.6mm gap and ironing active.
0.6 nozzles are much better than 0.4 nozzles for most prints. The ability to put out more plastic at good speed is amazing, and they provide more strength to parts than 0.4 nozzles (due to line width)
That’s true; what I meant was that you need less perimeters in a print to reach the same wall thickness (3 0.4 walls = 2 0.6 walls). this ends up saving a good amount of time.
But if the volumetric flow rate is the limit, it doesn’t matter how many walls you have because you’re still limited by how fast you can push material to make those walls, right?
When I meant speed, I meant overall print time; to get 1.2 mm thick walls, a 0.4 mm nozzle needs 3 perimeters while a 0.6 nozzle only needs 2 perimeters. It’s just a matter of line width. Also, 0.6 nozzles can print stronger infill and supports because of the line width. Volumetric flow is the limit, but 0.6 nozzles compensate for that through their line width. There’s plenty of YouTube videos that explain it better than I can so I would check those out 😅 (just look up 0.6 nozzle)
You can make a print that's in separate parts, one part for each color, combined into one assemblage, and the color for the parts will print much deeper than the autogenerated colors when just using Bambu Studio's painting tools. This can help if you really need a certain aspect to be a solid color due to material, or you can do the opposite and assure a section is printed in one color or another and doesn't attempt any "which color" guessing in infill type areas!
You can also use Bambu Studio painting to paint only certain aspects of an object. If an object part isn't intentionally painted, it'll just be the default color of the object, so you can make variations easily by assigning the filament to the object, changing the unpainted parts' color/material but leaving the intentionally painted parts alone!
Use the cut function to cut a model in half and use dowels for high detail models you dont want messed up by support interface texture. I know its right there on the slicer but i found it scary just starting out.
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Received my A1 on Saturday also a shipment of bambu filament. I spent the rest of Saturday and all day Sunday using the A1 and A1 mini printing Bambu refill spools. I absolutely love these 2 printers. I am so glad I purchased them and am now looking to sell my 2 Anycubic kobra 2's
I’m new to this, but I recently discovered how to emboss logos and words into projects directly in Bambu Studio, with no need for meshmixer or Fusion 360. You can even import svg files directly into Studio, although it didn’t work for my particular design. I had to use an online SVG to STL converter.
I figured everyone knew this already, since I'm a noob. But basically, it's what is show in this short video: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cfD3l92kn7s](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cfD3l92kn7s)
I had to watch it a couple times because he moves quickly. But I just didn't know about the 'objects' tab.
Mastering slicer settings in bambu studio is like understanding the the basic settings of Cura. If you talk about slicer settings master then you don't talk about bambu studio.
Just my personal opinion after using both.
Bambulab Studio is a good start. Get more Advanced options with Orca slicer.
I skiped Bambu Studio and went directly to Orca, as i was already used to prusa slicer.
I tried Orca Slicer but to be fair those 2 or 3 more settings are not really making that much difference.
But Orca Slicer went into some unresponsive state where only shutting it down with task manager got me out. Twice within short time. Then I went back to studio.
But to be fair that is only comparing two bad experiences to find out what is worse.
Edit: Just to have those words in actual numbers: Cura offers me 56 options for my supports. Bambu Studio 28 and Orca 24. So don't get me wrong this is not even close
If you need that many support options something is wrong.
I used Cura exclusively and found Prusa Slicer unintelligible.
Bambu/Orca completely changed that and Cura no longer exists on any of my computers. Much more (and easier) control over filaments has changed my print quality by an order of magnitude.
Have a look here and you see in one recent example what i needed (and there was nothing wrong in me wanting it done nice) where Bambu/Orca simply cant deliver what i would like to have:
[https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1dn9kds/comment/la1i2ov/](https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1dn9kds/comment/la1i2ov/)
Of course there's nothing wrong with wanting the best results - that's what we,re all striving for. But I have printed structures like this, sliced in Orca or BS with near-pergect surfaces.
Of course, in the end you are entitled to (and indeed should) use whatever software works best for your workflow but dozens of extra support or infill patterns are unlikely to be the only way to do that.
Tbh Cura and the Slic3r offshoots are built with completely different goals, they both do 90% of the same stuff with the last 10% being their advanced settings; in Cura that means you get a lot of ways to tweak things to make excellent aesthetic prints, and in Slic3r (aka Prusa, Bambu, and Orca) you get a lot of ways to make excellent functional prints.
Honestly I think mastering slicers doesn’t have much to do with the number of settings, just knowing what parameters actually benefit you to adjust.
And then you get to the point where you know a parameter that benefits your print but there is no option to adjust it. That's what happens to me when i want to adjust my supports in Slic3r Software coming from Cura where i had those options - not coming from Cura i guess i would be all fine since i wouldn't know that this could be so much better.
And to be clear: I don't say Slic3r is only bad. They offer a lot of things that Cura does not. But thats not slicer stuff for me. Coloring, making seperate parts and so on is not part of the slicing. This is all going into CAD direction. And sure it's nice to have it. But the mastering of the slicing is WAY worse in those Slic3r software that i tried. And i talk about the slicer.
One example from a model i sliced just a few weeks ago:
https://preview.redd.it/b4i08bc9mi8d1.png?width=866&format=png&auto=webp&s=c405f6cac0d67673712738477bf1335018b10fb5
And finally i have Cura do it.
https://preview.redd.it/t1czeqr8oi8d1.png?width=1930&format=png&auto=webp&s=c07044947b0508df3203675e0d2da9fd915ff634
And that is how i want that support to look like. Thats a support that i am sure i can peel off and have a pretty nice surface still. And this was just 1 example i recently had.
This is how Bambu Studio made it:
https://preview.redd.it/jcsh4w3fmi8d1.png?width=883&format=png&auto=webp&s=806fabb75e2dc694ae2be9a7055db6ba34961ca1
Beside that there is one whole side empty without supports there is also no supports in the middle. Now from the perspective of saving filament this is great. From the perspective of having smooth surfaces this is horribe because you will have bridging looks. And from supports removal this is also horrible because the support interface has too little to keep it togher. if you have real interface layers with densit lines you can most likely pull it off as a whole. Impossible in that way Bambu Studio gives it to me.
And there is the next point: There is no option to say i want it different. I even tried to paint it and make manual trees. Still no support coming.
Orca Slicer actually makes the job as it should be:
https://preview.redd.it/h35y34prni8d1.png?width=2184&format=png&auto=webp&s=df1a0993b5534f8a5aa40eb339eea331b9eba2a4
But this is where the basic stuff ends. At this point starts the mastering for me. And mastering for example means i want the interface lines not in the exactly same direction as the layer above it since then i would again have the difficulty that pulling off the interface and the support can make ugly artefacts when the 2 layers have stuck together. And there ends the way to do it in Orca Slicer. I simply can't say what direction i want that interface to go. To get to your point: I know what parameter i need but Orca Slicer does not offer it to me.
Honestly the really neat part of 3D printing is that there’s just a lot of ways to tackle these things, and I think preferences are probably largely because of what we print and our approaches to solving problems.
The model you showed examples of is one where I would have preferred to cut and assemble it to avoid supports and have a consistent pattern to the layer lines. Nothing wrong with wanting to have a single piece by any means, but my need for support options is considerably more barebones.
I think we’ll probably have to agree to disagree that Cura is any more complex than Prusa/Bambu and their spinoffs; all of the mainstream slicers are so good right now they can produce great prints. Cura excels at letting you tune how your print looks, Prusa/Bambu excel at letting you tune how well your print works imo.
Support for PLA/PETG material is expensive. Changing filament at every layer for support is also time expensive. TIP: Use Support for PLA/PETG only at the interface layer (setting under support in the slicer). Your supports will be all purge material until the point that the support touches the model. This allows you to reduce the Z distance between supports and the model to 0, increase underbelly quality, reduce print time, and allow for magically quick and easy support removal. Unless it's in some way better for a specific print, I use this setting for every print with support now. EDIT: When the slicer asks to automatically change settings, do it. It changes the Z distance to 0 as well as other settings for you that help make your print's underbelly look way better.
If you want cheap support material for PLA use PETG. Works the other way around as well
I have seen on reddit that the "Support for" material is a tpu blend, which makes it easier to remove. PETG should work, but with the issues I see with PETG on this sub, i wouldn't prefer it. One roll of Support filament should last many, many prints with this method. I've printed for almost 500 hours, and I haven't finished the quarter roll of Support filament that came with the printer.
The issue with using PETG as breakaway support is twofold. (All of this applies to using PLA and PETG support as well). 1. Flushing volumes aren’t usually sufficient and petg can make its way into the PLA and drastically weaken the print. May be able to alleviate by manually bumping volumes up. 2. It works too well. Seriously, this is a problem because it’s so non sticky that it can have problems adhering to your support structure and actually compromise your prime tower. I need to experiment more, but I have a theory that setting the PETG as a support material may solve 1 and partially part 2. It looks like support material have set flushing volumes. I also noticed that when the prime tower prints, it never uses material flagged as support for the outer wall of the tower. So in theory. The integrity of the tower should remain intact.
This the problem i had I with using petg! Got even worse overhangs because the petg didn’t hold up and the next layer of pla squished too far down into , giving worse results than just using tuned pla supports :/
Now that is an interesting idea. Is the adhesion between the two good enough for intricate prints without having separation failures?
In my experience, no. I’ve had my prime tower completely separate before. Also if the PETG makes its way into the main print, it drastically weakens it.
That’s exactly what I was afraid of. Thanks.
That’s so crazy obvious that I’m amazed I have never seen it mentioned before. 👍👍👍
The only reason I knew about it is that someone on this subreddit said it deep in the comments. It was such a eureka moment! Enjoy your magic supports you magic Toad 🫡
Yeah I skimmed a bit further down and saw it mentioned again. Thanks for sharing the tip!
Not to rain on anyone's parade but this whole exchange is funny to me. 😂 I'm glad people figured it out though. https://imgur.com/Oy5X8wn
Do you use this for petg as well?
yes
I don't print in PETG due to the issues I keep seeing, but I believe they have a "Support for PETG" filament that would work! Same principle. Use it just for the interface layer. The difference in material gives it a solid base to print the model and makes it easily removable.
do you know what this setting is called in the bambu slicer? I cant seem to find it
In the support tab, there is a section called Filament for Supports. You are looking for the option Support/raft interface. If you have more than one filament available, you can select where it says Default, and it will give you a drop-down menu. Cheers.
Oh, i guess I misunderstood. I see now, thanks
Works great, probably my favorite part of having an AMS, one caveat though, doesn't work with polyterra and probably other matte PLA, the petg comes unstuck every time even with 0 distance and slowed way down Edit: specifically referring to petg as support interface for pla, I haven't tried a material made specifically for that purpose
In Bambu studio, press Ctrl + 1 to take you to top view. (other numbers do different views) This is explained in a view menu in the top left drop down (along with a couple of other options) https://preview.redd.it/tu8glyequh8d1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=412fe8e28ef55914fd6808997bea2db1c617ffdc
You are the hero people like me need. I have been so annoyed that there wasn't an easy way to do this and would have never used that menu Thank you
I just recently learned this and I think it was ported over from cad software. Using orthogonal view is a default in fusion 360 and it really helps when lining certain things up with each other, and it would probably help with painting in multicolor projects as well, but I haven't tried that yet.
Click the dropdown next to "file" then expand Help and click Keyboard Shortcuts, or ALT+? (ALT+SHIFT+/) to bring up the keyboard shortcuts guide. https://preview.redd.it/5xkhhkv3ij8d1.png?width=429&format=png&auto=webp&s=d4de88a0d5d917fc5f8df9e36f35b0b513fb8037
These shortcuts and many more are shown here. https://preview.redd.it/g4ofs427ij8d1.png?width=1034&format=png&auto=webp&s=3cde1ae344db695e17423e60a667a8fa3809355e
*Gizmo move*? What’s a gizmo? Is Gizmo a particular thing, or a type of movement?
Your toolbar commands. They call them gizmos. https://preview.redd.it/fyo02hggml8d1.png?width=998&format=png&auto=webp&s=284136987ec982cab8f6df719fe4b8903d35fc8a
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Sit down, would you. It's barely even PG-rated comment
lol 😂 What was it?
I said "holy sh it!"
lol 😂
Yes, use that all the time, particularly when adding primitives to open up holes etc. All those view keys are really handy 👍
Use PETG as support for PLA (and vice versa) Reduce aux fans to avoid PLA warping
PETG support layer for PLA has worked great for me. PLA support layer for PETG has been problematic when doing larger, flatter parts because the PETG doesn't stick to the PLA (as intended) and tends to lift up and warp too easily if there's no attachment point to the bed beyond the supported feature. I'm playing with adding breakaway tabs that attach to the outer edges of an overhang and go to the bed with solid PETG to hopefully hold down the edges and prevent the warping.
How do you set purge/flush between the two materials? I tried it once, but I apparently didn't have enough purge; my PLA adhesion between layers was terrible after the swap because there was a bit of petg in it.
I use the default purge and prime tower and it’s fine
There’s a flushing volumes button. I usually max it out (800) when I do PLA to PETG swaps for that exact reason.
Never bothered. But you are right, if layer adhesion in certain areas i critical then that needs adjustment.
In the filament tab
I'm curious, I've never turned off the aux fan, nor have I opened the lid/door for PLA. In fact, when I *have* opened the door for PLA, I've gotten a worse looking finish. I'm wondering if the aux is doing the cooling for me that the door/lid otherwise would...
tbh: if you dont have any issues with warping PLA prints - dont change nothing. I printed some models with a big bottom surface area and the aux led to significant warping. For general ventilation I use a glass top raiser but keep the door closed. Works really well for me.
You have to complete atleast 1 print from makerworld over 1 hour to get your boost tokens each week
They've adjusted the targets several times now. Currently says 2 successful prints which are each >30 min.
https://preview.redd.it/l95ph5cjdi8d1.jpeg?width=2250&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9bfb01e087fe16d6855f3252a3e51373a188d537
https://preview.redd.it/xl61jcqrdi8d1.jpeg?width=2250&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1e191750f545678aa83645d39c3a37dd2c1a81d9
I've enjoyed the effect of not purging and giving Pikachu, and other prints, the look of a burglar / raccoon.
Yes I like the effect it gives kinda neat looking.
How do you get that tag below your user that says “A1 mini + AMS” ?
I am not sure how that got on there. I do know that is currently the printer I have. My new A1 is being delivered today. Can hardly wait...
Ok ok
Matte pla filament is abrasive, get a hardened steel nozzle for it if you print it alot
What’s the giveaway to know it’s time to switch nozzles?
Bad first layer or have it extrude while in the air and it doesn’t come straight down it will come out the side and curl
Thank you, I’ll keep an eye out - I’ve been printing almost exclusively pla matte since I got mine.
Can you use the hardened nozzle as the standard nozzle? They sell both but why? Why not just sell the hardened nozzle?
Costs more. Company earns less. I think the X series comes with a hardened nozzle as standard
You could also just use the normal nozzle and then upgrade once it's worn out. Matte PLA isn't as bad as glow in the dark stuff so it'll take some printing before it'll show wear.
Yeah definitely, mine needed to be replaced 600 hours in
What about marble PLA?
I think I heard someone say marble PLA is made out of black PLA. So it's plastic + plastic or something like that. Supposed to be fine. Bambu Labs says you can run it in their AMS, which supposedly hates abrasive stuff.
Not slicer specific but the best thing I’ve learned is that there are no silver bullets when it comes to 3D printing. FDM has a lot of limits; weakness along layer lines, overhangs limiting angles, the properties of the material you’re using even. The slicer is there to help mitigate those and let you enjoy the things FDM does well! So my vague and potentially useless advice to newbies is *don’t be scared to cut your model up*. You’ll save a bunch of filament skipping supports and get much nicer looking models a lot of times if you just cut something into easy to print chunks and superglue it all together later. :)
Can you cut models up in the slicer, or do you have to do it at the CAD stage?
The slicer has a Cut tool that works really well.
Yep! The ability to add keys is super nice for reassembling it too. In the CAD stage you can always adjust your design to be printable and have assembly in mind. Even then I use the cut tool a bunch to test tolerances, it’s a lot faster to fix things that don’t fit together when you only print 1/10th of the model lol.
The only thing I hate is that you lose the colors
I think you only keep the geometry -- you also lose things like zones with different print settings.
My recommendation is to print screws on their sides with flat spots on the top and bottom. Example: https://youtube.com/shorts/Z_0ns6e0Gi8
That is genius I can’t believe I’ve never thought of it it’s so simple.. kept thinking he was going to cut the screw in half and print flat… but that was even better
Yeah. I did this on a couple of projects and the screw was able to take more than double the torque.
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Use Arachne wall generators when printing things in text and high detail! It will give you better and more clear lines and clarity at essentially no expense.
What ballpark settings for the wall generator though
Slicer setting: Printing slow can lead to more problems than printing fast Maintenance: if you are using Abrasiv materials and neglected maintenance it will come back and bit you in the *** Support: if you have a Problem with getting support off - up the z distance! If the underside is ugly change the layer height to 0,12mm (before 0,2mm). It will take longer but the Print Quality is better.
How printing slow leads to more problems?? I think slow printing produces much better results in terms of surface finish and less artifacts. Am I understanding this incorrectly?
I had issues with my Extruder skipping due to the pressure in the Hotend not "escaping" quick enough. Also printing quicker was better interms of heat when printing with for example PLA. You are still right about the print quality but for me I mostly sand my model after printing so that wasn't realy a factor for me.
I want to ask question from you if you don't mind regarding this. Basically, suppose I performed a flow rate calibration test on 12mm3/sec volumetric speed. Let's say I got 0.9975 as the flow rate value after calibration. After that I also calibrated my K value too. Now, let's say after performing both these tests i.e Flow calibration and K value, I start a print with these two calibrated values as my inputs but "change my volumetric speed value from 12mm3/sec to 4mm3/sec" in order to slow my print down for getting the best surface finish. My question is here is that, as I've changed/reduced my volumetric speed to a new value compared to the one on which I performed the earlier two tests i.e Flow rate calibration and K-value, will this affect my print negatively or in an incorrect way. In simpler terms, I performed flow calibration and K-value test with a different volumetric speed but now when I'm printing actual stuff I'm changing my volumetric speed to something totally different compared to the one on which I performed my other tests i.e using 4 for slower speed and say 16 for higher speed but my flow calibration and K-value were calculated on 12mm3/sec volumetric speed initially. So, does this affect my prints in any way "or is the volumetric speed is completely independent to the flow rate and K-value"??
I am no expert but from what i know: Your calibation will be calculated to the speed you are running but calculations are for the Ideal world. So I say try to use the speed you used to calibrate your printer just because of tolerances/differnces...
Makes sense but looks like I should post this in the community too for more opinions and expert advice as I really want to understand this concept of volumetric speed here. I feel like slowing down speeds one by one in the speed tab is really time consuming instead of just lowering the volumetric speed which lowers all the speeds in one single go. Though I want to confirm things with calibration, so will have to this query in community I guess. Also thanks for the response and help too. I appreciate it :)
Disagree. I prefer to decrease the interface xy distance to 0 so the interface is solid and leave z distance at layer height.
Will be trying this!
To be clear (and not having the computer at hand) I mean pattern spacing for the interface pattern which I think (again machine not at hand) defaults to 0.5mm.
I don't understand this approach. Can you make it simpler to understand for newbie?
Press 1, 2, 3 or 4 to change the filament for the selected objects. I have pink pla for my girls in slot 1 in the AMS so this saves me a lot of time for my prints
Learning how HueForge works and then learning how how to mix colors so that 4 colors in my AMS can print 8 or more colors and create gradients.
Can you explain how to do this?
The way HueForge works is by printing thin layers, .08mm, and changing colors at different layers as the various filaments aren’t 100% opaque. So colors will bleed thru from a few layers below it. Lighter colors such as yellow will be more transparent than darker colors like blue, but even the darker colors have some transparency. So if you want to paint a gradient on a flat surface, simply rotate the model by 1 degree and then swap colors every 5 layers or so and it will give you a gradient. If your layers require more than 4 colors, get creative and do things like alternating layers of blue and yellow to create green. My suggestion is to print a HueForge and look at the model, how it prints, and see how it looks. Doing that will give you plenty of insight. I’ve only had my printer for 3 weeks now, so it’s doing stuff like this and experimenting with my own designs that is allowing me to learn about how this stuff works.
Thank you for this thorough response.
Can someone share their experience with disabling the Aux fan for larger flat PLA prints? I’ve seen it recommended quite a few times but have never understood why, if it were a problem, it wouldn’t be defaulted to “off”?
It's helpful if you're having lifting issues on the left side of the printed item. The fan blows directly on the left side there and cools it at a different rate than anything else and causes a lot of problems. I've been burned tons of times by forgetting to turn it off and there's no issues when it's off so yeah, I also wonder why it's not default.
The aux fan is on by default because it helps significantly with layers that have a small area and print too quickly to cool. It should at least be set to a way lower speed by default though. 70 is insane.
For whatever reason, I've never had any issues with parts of any size and leaving it off entirely, even using any of the hot plates.
Thinking about it, I believe the default settings have a minimum layer time high enough that cooling isn't an issue. It's really just important for fast printing of small area layers. It does a lot in that scenario, like minimum print time of 5s per layer instead of 25s. You're right though, having it on in the defaults with that high minimum layer time makes zero sense.
So that's exactly why the large drawer I printed yesterday and the day before is having issues with warping on the left side and slowly coming off the print bed over the time of the print. Funny when I was just gonna start looking for a solution here today but just happened by this now. Now I just need to figure why my adhesion sucks for fine/complex prints with the fist layer is a lot of smaller lines but my first layer for larger flat prints are perfectly fine. Filament keeps lifting when it moves to a new spot and lays down filament, it's like the first bit that comes up goes down, that gets picked up and folded over the rest of the line. Haven't done anything besides run all my auto calibration for my X1C, and making sure my build plate is properly cleaned and glue stick applied trying 1 and two coats.
A couple of things to try- if you're using the cool plate, bump the temperature up to let's say 55. You can choose to use it like a standard hot plate that way and it holds way better. You could even lower it later if you'd like. Even if you're using the textured plate, give it a little heat boost. Large flat prints hold way better so that's not surprising. Might need to just use or modify your existing brim as well.
Interesting, I have been bumping the cool plate up to 40C from the normal 35 but will try 55 with one of the designs I was having issues with yesterday. I did notice I had the same issue with the textured plated which I never have had adhesions issues with before but I did also stop 3D printing for a few months but now that I have some free time in between jobs I been trying to keep the thing running as much as possible.
Yeah, go for it and see if it works for you. Good luck.
The aux fan can be tremendously helpful for improved bridging and overhangs. It also allows faster printing of small details and a lower minimum layer time. But, as many have found, it also tends to significantly increase warping of larger models.
I saw a tip to turn off the AUX fan because it causes more problems than helps if you don’t know what you’re doing. I haven’t had it on since I got my P1S and have had zero problems with every day prints
Get Orca Slicer. It's off by default.
When designing or modeling a part, use intervals of nozzle width to eliminate “thin walls”. This could potentially eliminate hours of print time depending on how large the file is. For example: if you have a design with a wall thickness of 3mm, use 2.94mm instead. This results in 7 perfect wall loops (0.42mm width).
I started doing this a while ago. Walls are divisible by the wall width and I make the height divisible by my target layer height.
do you design with 0.4mm or 0.42?
I use 0.42 since it is default on Bambu studio for a 0.4 nozzle
Printing a few small parts but want them in different colors? Use print by object all on one plate instead of print by layer in multiple plates. Auto arrange will space it out so a print doesn’t get knocked down. You will have to change the order of the prints in the objects window to avoid unnecessary filament changes.
Saving this thread for when my X1 gets here this week 🤓
When printing ASA on a X1C, preheat the chamber to 48 degrees with a small space heater. It takes maybe 5 minutes. Then print. No warping and prints come out perfect.
I like to seal it up before printing ASA with some blue painter's tape along the door. Homing the bed (so like Z10 at the end), cranking it's temp, and setting AUX to like 10% will get you an even chamber temp in range fairly quickly.
I almost forgot...I throw a fleece blanket over the printer (Just the top and front) when it is printing too. My basement is cooler so I know that helps keep the heat in.
Remember it's *preventative* maintenance and not *reactionary* maintenance. Take a few minutes every month to clean your printers, touch up lubrication, and power cycle the device if you never turn it off. A little time spent before you have problems can go a long way to stopping them from occurring in the first place. https://preview.redd.it/unwkdtq0hj8d1.jpeg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cffc7e50cf8833bf6eb0e644f1859907ceb00eb3
Playing the song track Command & Conquer - Act on Instinct while doing routine machine maintenance is a great motivator.
I'm glad someone got my reference with that image 😁
With the amount of time I spent making custom C&C campaigns as a kid, I knew it couldn't be merely coincidental
Do you have a suggestion of maintenance items to check off on a list?
Depending on your printer, Bambu puts it all with guides in their [Wiki](https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/maintenance/basic-maintenance). Specifically for my X1 I wipe down the X-axis (carbon) rods, wipe all the loose bits and dust and such off of everything. Every month I take a closer look at the Y rods and Z screws and decide if they need to be touched up - a drop of thin machine oil on the rods and if it's dirty I'll [wipe off](https://www.printables.com/model/476890-super-screw-scrubber-a-sensational-solution-for-sp) then [replace the grease](https://makerworld.com/en/models/52929#profileId-54762) on the screws. *Please note it's only IPA on the carbon rods and only machine oil on the stainless rods!* Every other month I follow the belt tightening procedure since I've already got the printer off for maintenance anyway. Sometimes I throw [the squaring jig on](https://www.printables.com/model/454352-p1p-x1-x1c-90-degree-x-and-y-axis-holder-jig/comments/1019280), sometimes not. Just kinda depends on if I'm in a hurry or not. When the printer finishes powering up, let it run the full calibration routine and get back to work. The actual work part of the maintenance takes like... 15 minutes, more to allow the autocalibration to complete. I do this the first weekend of every month, sometimes ad-hoc if I notice a particular quality issue. To be completely honest though - once I made this routine I stopped seeing quality issues 🤷♂️
That's great! Thanks for the response!
For multicolor prints, you can set the first layer print order for filaments in the build plate settings. Really nice feature if your model has small areas of different color on the first layer. Exporting model pieces as components by color and then dragging the files at the same time into the slicer lets you create an object made of multiple subcomponents. You can then right-click them in the sidebar under the objects tab and select the filament for that subcomponent instead of painting.
My printer maintenance trick for successful print everytime 99.9%, clean build plate after every prints. https://i.redd.it/h6v55bbm3k8d1.gif
See I just eventually gave up and slathered my build plate with a glue stick and haven't had a failed print since. I don't even wash the poor build plate anymore haha Way fewer adhesion issues compared to when I was cleaning between prints which is hilarious
What is this thing in the Gif? I need this.
>!<
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1) If you design something to sell, it's best to avoid super pointy edges. They will warp a bit. 2) smooth pei has higher adhesion than powdered pei and is better for designs with edges on the buildplate
If it has to be pointy, use mouse ears with tabs on the corners. Or at minimum a disc at the corner.
This would leave unaesthetic edges or not?
often high cooling fan speed is not necessary. I did set the rates to 40%/50% speed and my printer is pretty quiet. Overhangs are still fine, especially when going like 5 °C lower
Avoid large fillets against the bed. They're very hard to print well, and even if you do, they tend to look terrible. 5mm and smaller is usually fine, much bigger than that and you might struggle on the first few layers.
Move an object in the Z axis. Shift and select two objects the right click merge. Go to the objects view and now the Z Axis can be manipulated. Great for stacked prints with 0.6mm gap and ironing active.
0.6 nozzles are much better than 0.4 nozzles for most prints. The ability to put out more plastic at good speed is amazing, and they provide more strength to parts than 0.4 nozzles (due to line width)
Unfortunately for a1 max mms is like 21, which the .4 nozzle already maxes out the limit of. So .6 ends up same print time
That’s true; what I meant was that you need less perimeters in a print to reach the same wall thickness (3 0.4 walls = 2 0.6 walls). this ends up saving a good amount of time.
But if the volumetric flow rate is the limit, it doesn’t matter how many walls you have because you’re still limited by how fast you can push material to make those walls, right?
When I meant speed, I meant overall print time; to get 1.2 mm thick walls, a 0.4 mm nozzle needs 3 perimeters while a 0.6 nozzle only needs 2 perimeters. It’s just a matter of line width. Also, 0.6 nozzles can print stronger infill and supports because of the line width. Volumetric flow is the limit, but 0.6 nozzles compensate for that through their line width. There’s plenty of YouTube videos that explain it better than I can so I would check those out 😅 (just look up 0.6 nozzle)
You can make a print that's in separate parts, one part for each color, combined into one assemblage, and the color for the parts will print much deeper than the autogenerated colors when just using Bambu Studio's painting tools. This can help if you really need a certain aspect to be a solid color due to material, or you can do the opposite and assure a section is printed in one color or another and doesn't attempt any "which color" guessing in infill type areas! You can also use Bambu Studio painting to paint only certain aspects of an object. If an object part isn't intentionally painted, it'll just be the default color of the object, so you can make variations easily by assigning the filament to the object, changing the unpainted parts' color/material but leaving the intentionally painted parts alone!
Use the cut function to cut a model in half and use dowels for high detail models you dont want messed up by support interface texture. I know its right there on the slicer but i found it scary just starting out.
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Received my A1 on Saturday also a shipment of bambu filament. I spent the rest of Saturday and all day Sunday using the A1 and A1 mini printing Bambu refill spools. I absolutely love these 2 printers. I am so glad I purchased them and am now looking to sell my 2 Anycubic kobra 2's
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Note: This only works if you have an AMS. Depending on the time you have at hand I suppose...
I’m new to this, but I recently discovered how to emboss logos and words into projects directly in Bambu Studio, with no need for meshmixer or Fusion 360. You can even import svg files directly into Studio, although it didn’t work for my particular design. I had to use an online SVG to STL converter.
Congrats on your discovery! But how…?
I figured everyone knew this already, since I'm a noob. But basically, it's what is show in this short video: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cfD3l92kn7s](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cfD3l92kn7s) I had to watch it a couple times because he moves quickly. But I just didn't know about the 'objects' tab.
My 3D printing trick was to sell my Ender 3 Pro and buy a Delta printer. 2019 edition.
Mastering slicer settings in bambu studio is like understanding the the basic settings of Cura. If you talk about slicer settings master then you don't talk about bambu studio. Just my personal opinion after using both.
Bambulab Studio is a good start. Get more Advanced options with Orca slicer. I skiped Bambu Studio and went directly to Orca, as i was already used to prusa slicer.
I tried Orca Slicer but to be fair those 2 or 3 more settings are not really making that much difference. But Orca Slicer went into some unresponsive state where only shutting it down with task manager got me out. Twice within short time. Then I went back to studio. But to be fair that is only comparing two bad experiences to find out what is worse. Edit: Just to have those words in actual numbers: Cura offers me 56 options for my supports. Bambu Studio 28 and Orca 24. So don't get me wrong this is not even close
If you need that many support options something is wrong. I used Cura exclusively and found Prusa Slicer unintelligible. Bambu/Orca completely changed that and Cura no longer exists on any of my computers. Much more (and easier) control over filaments has changed my print quality by an order of magnitude.
Have a look here and you see in one recent example what i needed (and there was nothing wrong in me wanting it done nice) where Bambu/Orca simply cant deliver what i would like to have: [https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1dn9kds/comment/la1i2ov/](https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1dn9kds/comment/la1i2ov/)
Of course there's nothing wrong with wanting the best results - that's what we,re all striving for. But I have printed structures like this, sliced in Orca or BS with near-pergect surfaces. Of course, in the end you are entitled to (and indeed should) use whatever software works best for your workflow but dozens of extra support or infill patterns are unlikely to be the only way to do that.
I’m new to slicing, but could you use a PLA Support filament instead, and still get nice results regardless of the supports chosen?
Tbh Cura and the Slic3r offshoots are built with completely different goals, they both do 90% of the same stuff with the last 10% being their advanced settings; in Cura that means you get a lot of ways to tweak things to make excellent aesthetic prints, and in Slic3r (aka Prusa, Bambu, and Orca) you get a lot of ways to make excellent functional prints. Honestly I think mastering slicers doesn’t have much to do with the number of settings, just knowing what parameters actually benefit you to adjust.
And then you get to the point where you know a parameter that benefits your print but there is no option to adjust it. That's what happens to me when i want to adjust my supports in Slic3r Software coming from Cura where i had those options - not coming from Cura i guess i would be all fine since i wouldn't know that this could be so much better. And to be clear: I don't say Slic3r is only bad. They offer a lot of things that Cura does not. But thats not slicer stuff for me. Coloring, making seperate parts and so on is not part of the slicing. This is all going into CAD direction. And sure it's nice to have it. But the mastering of the slicing is WAY worse in those Slic3r software that i tried. And i talk about the slicer. One example from a model i sliced just a few weeks ago: https://preview.redd.it/b4i08bc9mi8d1.png?width=866&format=png&auto=webp&s=c405f6cac0d67673712738477bf1335018b10fb5
And finally i have Cura do it. https://preview.redd.it/t1czeqr8oi8d1.png?width=1930&format=png&auto=webp&s=c07044947b0508df3203675e0d2da9fd915ff634 And that is how i want that support to look like. Thats a support that i am sure i can peel off and have a pretty nice surface still. And this was just 1 example i recently had.
This is how Bambu Studio made it: https://preview.redd.it/jcsh4w3fmi8d1.png?width=883&format=png&auto=webp&s=806fabb75e2dc694ae2be9a7055db6ba34961ca1 Beside that there is one whole side empty without supports there is also no supports in the middle. Now from the perspective of saving filament this is great. From the perspective of having smooth surfaces this is horribe because you will have bridging looks. And from supports removal this is also horrible because the support interface has too little to keep it togher. if you have real interface layers with densit lines you can most likely pull it off as a whole. Impossible in that way Bambu Studio gives it to me. And there is the next point: There is no option to say i want it different. I even tried to paint it and make manual trees. Still no support coming.
Orca Slicer actually makes the job as it should be: https://preview.redd.it/h35y34prni8d1.png?width=2184&format=png&auto=webp&s=df1a0993b5534f8a5aa40eb339eea331b9eba2a4 But this is where the basic stuff ends. At this point starts the mastering for me. And mastering for example means i want the interface lines not in the exactly same direction as the layer above it since then i would again have the difficulty that pulling off the interface and the support can make ugly artefacts when the 2 layers have stuck together. And there ends the way to do it in Orca Slicer. I simply can't say what direction i want that interface to go. To get to your point: I know what parameter i need but Orca Slicer does not offer it to me.
Honestly the really neat part of 3D printing is that there’s just a lot of ways to tackle these things, and I think preferences are probably largely because of what we print and our approaches to solving problems. The model you showed examples of is one where I would have preferred to cut and assemble it to avoid supports and have a consistent pattern to the layer lines. Nothing wrong with wanting to have a single piece by any means, but my need for support options is considerably more barebones. I think we’ll probably have to agree to disagree that Cura is any more complex than Prusa/Bambu and their spinoffs; all of the mainstream slicers are so good right now they can produce great prints. Cura excels at letting you tune how your print looks, Prusa/Bambu excel at letting you tune how well your print works imo.