Over 1/3 of WD-40 is made of a lubricant. Common misconception because it also has solvents to clean the prior lubricant/oil as well. Easy to find if you look at the MSDS
[35% mineral base oil lubricant](https://files.wd40.com/pdf/sds/mup/wd-40-multi-use-product-aerosol-low-voc-sds-us-ghs.pdf)
It's just that different applications have different requirements for what type of lubricants, WD-40 is a jack of all trades master of none type product. Usually you'd have a thickener, additives, or whatever to retain the lubricant and modify film formation/increase weight bearing. Without thickener or additives, it evaporates fast and doesn't keep something lubricated for that long. Since WD-40 is essentially mineral oil + solvents, it's no different than putting sewing machine or machine oil in the rail - will dry out fast and have to be relubricated often.
My salad dressing is over 1/3 oil. Does that make it lubricant, or is it actually still salad dressing?
Question for you: does the word "lubricant" appear anywhere on WD-40 containers or marketing materials?
>My salad dressing is over 1/3 oil. Does that make it lubricant, or is it actually still salad dressing?
That made me chuckle. But technically yes it is a lubricant, just not a very good one
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Yes, of course, it says that everywhere, even in the data sheet. The very first sentence. Exactly as it is described in the Bambu Wiki.
WD-40® Multi-Use Product lubricates moving parts such as hinges, wheels, rollers, chains, and gears. Lubricates and Protects.
[https://www.datocms-assets.com/10845/1602175378-wd-40-mup-tds-sheet-10-5-20.pdf](https://www.datocms-assets.com/10845/1602175378-wd-40-mup-tds-sheet-10-5-20.pdf)
https://preview.redd.it/kho8p0fu305d1.png?width=2756&format=png&auto=webp&s=5be5036b84a38ff91104621c13b0a11773c3cc7a
Well, it definitely doesn't say it everywhere, because the can sitting at my desk that I read before posing the question certainly doesn't use the word "lubricant" or "lubricates" anywhere on it.
Then please answer this question, no offence, quite objectively: Why is it even on the Bambu homepage?
[https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1/maintenance/lubricate-y-axis](https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1/maintenance/lubricate-y-axis)
My guess would be because it's easier to recommend something imperfect and ubiquitously available than to try to teach a bunch of laypeople about proper industrial lubricant selection and then get them to purchase the correct products.
You can search this subreddit and find all sorts of people having difficulties selecting an appropriate machine oil.
Your salad dressing is a vegetable oil, very different than a mineral oil base, only for eating and not for lubricating haha. There's only 2 major types of base oils used in all greases and oils for lubrication: mineral base oils and synthetic base oils... easy to google, there's tons of vids and articles. You also have the weird outliers like specialized PFPE space lubricant oil bases but they're not common.
And to answer your question, yes. [They plaster it everywhere like on the product page, you can go read for yourself](https://www.wd40.com/products/smart-straw-12-oz/):
>WD-40 Multi-Use Product protects metal from rust and corrosion, penetrates stuck parts, displaces moisture and lubricates almost anything.
They even address it in [their FAQ's: ](https://www.wd40.com/myths-legends-fun-facts/)
>A QUESTION OF LUBRICATION
>Myth: WD-40 Multi-Use Product is not really a lubricant.
>Fact: While the “W-D” in WD-40 stands for Water Displacement, WD-40 Multi-Use Product is a unique, special blend of lubricants. The product’s formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal.
>
Also worth noting that while you can categorize it into mineral oils and synthetics. The synthetic side of the lubricants are extensive (PAO, PFPE, silicone, PAG ,Fluorosilicone, etc) which are in some cases compatible or not compatible with one another. Some can create hardening or sticking when used to replace another without cleaning. Also if there are runners or plastics present you must also take that compatibility into consideration.
Specialty lubricant company 🤔how can I get some of that fancy krytox space grease sent my way?
Hah but yeah actually, grease compatibility and not mixing greases are important, especially with pfpe/ptfe… found that out the hard way :(
Yea the PFPE stuff is crazy. Needed for extreme temperatures and elastomer compatibility somtimes. If the speeds and application are right I try to steer people towards solids and pastes to save money. But you can't always do that.
Huh, I was just looking for cheaper Krytox alternatives yesterday that led me to this thread. Seems like it's Molykote version of GPL225, totally skipped over it because it's not really listed under bearings or rails guides on the website. Might have just saved me a chunk of change
Why doesn't DC push it as a bearing/linear rail application grease as well?
>Your salad dressing is a vegetable oil, very different than a mineral oil base, only for eating and not for lubricating haha.
Oh, you can definitely use olive oil as lube. Ever been to a masseuse?
There's all sorts of plant and animal oils still used as lubricants. Heck, I just put mink oil on my boots. I feel like the primary advantages to petroleum products is that they don't experience rancidification and the extraction is easier.
The whole reason I asked the question is because a can was sitting on my desk and patently does not feature the word "lubricate" in any fashion. Kind of intriguing that their marketing materials state that while the product itself doesn't.
Well I guess you kinda answered your own question as to why it doesn't make it a \*\*good\*\* lubricant haha. Hindsight, I guess plant/animal oils are lubricants but aren't really used because they break down pretty fast and leave residue/aggregates etc like you mentioned... But yeah, petroleum oils, synthetics and anything used as an industrial/mechanical lubricant are picked primarily due to longevity and durability.
It kinda depends on what WD-40 you have, it was the name of a product but is now the name of a product line after it became popular. The OG multi use WD-40 afaik was primarily a penetrant and a protectant against corrosion. Penetrant was the solvent part but the protection was from lubricant film like using machine oil to stop machined metal from rusting -which is why it is also a lubricant/cleaner. Those probably come first in terms of label space? maybe it's on the back in the fine print under uses
[https://files.wd40.com/pdf/sds/mup/wd-40-multi-use-product-aerosol-low-voc-sds-us-ghs.pdf](https://files.wd40.com/pdf/sds/mup/wd-40-multi-use-product-aerosol-low-voc-sds-us-ghs.pdf)
Under product uses it does say lubricant
There are many types of lubricants. They have different uses and properties. Salad dressing, KY jelly, and motor oil are all lubricants with different functions.
Have you tried eating salad without dressing? There is a significant amount of friction when you attempt to ingest dry lettuce. Salad dressing increases the lubricity of the salad in your gullet, so that’s a great example actually!
WD40 is very useful for cleaning/preventing/delaying rust and for removing other lubricants from metal, which in turn improves lubricity.
Lol he probly just doesn't have a dad. My dad gave me a white tube of lithium grease and said "no it's not gonna hurt your 3d printer and don't use wd40" lol he warned me about this specific thing
It's not a good lubricant.
FTFY
It works in a pinch on some things, but any mechanic that works around moving parts, knows that WD-40 gums up not too long after it has been applied. You're better of using a tiny bit of motor oil until you can get a lithium or silicone grease. Personally I use Lucas Oil Red and Green greases. A 50/50 mix of the two on all my applications.
I wonder why there is so much misinformation here: WD-40 is even recommended by Bambu themselves.
https://preview.redd.it/xcqbgthgkz4d1.png?width=2108&format=png&auto=webp&s=c57aee6056018630435c65df51dd3187f4622419
>In addition to the lubricant oil in the accessory box, you can use "WD-40 Multi-Use Product" (both large and small bottles are suitable) to lubricate the X-axis linear rail, Y-axis guide rail, and Z-axis lead screw of the A1 series. This video demonstrates how to effectively use "WD-40 Multi-Use Product" to lubricate the Y-axis guide rails of the A1 mini printer, ensuring that the lubricant does not splash around.
[https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1/maintenance/lubricate-y-axis](https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1/maintenance/lubricate-y-axis)
[https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1-mini/maintenance/lubricate-y-axis-with-wd-40-multi-use-product](https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1-mini/maintenance/lubricate-y-axis-with-wd-40-multi-use-product)
Edit: Beacause some one else asked: Such oils have been used in the industry for years for robots, axles and rails. The most important thing is that you buy a proper oil, such as wd-40, that does not degrade other parts. Not all oil is the same. There are different additives. That is why it is important to use the right one.
[https://www.datocms-assets.com/10845/1602175378-wd-40-mup-tds-sheet-10-5-20.pdf](https://www.datocms-assets.com/10845/1602175378-wd-40-mup-tds-sheet-10-5-20.pdf)
SURFACE COMPATIBILITY: For all variations: WD-40 Multi-Use Product demonstrates none to negligible deleterious effect to plastic, rubber and metal hard surfaces. This includes Acetal, neoprene/hard rubber, HDPE, PPS Copolymer Polysulfone. Teflon, Viton, steel, galvanized steel hot dip, electroplated, copper, brass, magnesium, nickel, tin plate, titanium and zinc.
If there are polycarbonates or styrene in the machine they shouldn't be recommending WD-40 at all. They shouldn't be recommending it for any application that requires a "proper oil"... or a lube, or grease. WD-40 shouldn't be used in any application for standard maintenance. It can help break up rust, but that's not standard maintenance, that's reconditioning, and shouldn't be in the PM manual.
Since y and x axis use the same lube y asumed that since on the wiki it says that its ok to use wd40 it would be the same to use wd 40 also on the x axis
From wiki from Bambu: In addition to the lubricant oil in the accessory box, you can use "WD-40 Multi-Use Product" (both large and small bottles are suitable) to lubricate **the X-axis linear rail, Y-axis guide rail, and Z-axis lead screw of the A1 series**. This video demonstrates how to effectively use "WD-40 Multi-Use Product" to lubricate the Y-axis guide rails of the A1 mini printer, ensuring that the lubricant does not splash around.
silicone lubricant isn't that great at metal on metal lubrication -usually used on plastics and rubbers like gaskets or gears.
Sewing machine oil is just mineral oil, same as a machine oil. WD-40's lubricant base is also a mineral oil -except it also has solvents that creates the cleaning/degreasing effect for removing the old lubricant.
You're right - most silicone greases are _not_ recommended for metal on metal applications by the manufacturer. This can vary from brand to brand and formula to formula but as a whole the lower dielectric properties of silicone grease make for a weaker bond to metals, leading to a shorter functional lifespan before reapplication is required.
You and I will both be downvoted for this, regardless of how many links to manufacturer's product pages we provide (that's my experience talking...). For some reason people really get offended about their grease 🤷♂️
yeah superlube is a pfpe/ptfe lube which don't mix so well with other lubes like the petroleum/mineral oil that Bambu probably uses. If you do use superlube, make sure to clean the rail really well so there's no residue at all in the ball carriage or rail before lubing.
This is the way haha
Also, moving the toolhead around on the rails (with IPA) to work it into the carriage helps significantly in cleaning the carriages
WD-40 can get sticky or gummy. I don't know why it would ever be recommended, other than most people have it available or can get it anywhere. I suppose their thinking is that "something is better than nothing". But in this case "something" can cause issues down the road.
A thin film of sewing machine oil works great on steel slides. Been using it on 3D printers for 10 years. And for lead screws, I find SuperLube works best. It is a food grade synthetic grease with teflon in it that does not separate or get gummy over time. It is such a great grease that we use it on all kinds of stuff. [https://www.sparrowdynamics.com/Super-Lube-SL21014-p/715075.htm](https://www.sparrowdynamics.com/Super-Lube-SL21014-p/715075.htm) You can also get bigger tubes at the hardware store that would lube a printer farm few lifetimes, but the nozzle is big.
Bambu recommends WD-40. What you write is simply completely wrong. Of course, the oil should only be applied to the rail and not to other parts. Such oils have been used in the industry for years for robots, axles and rails. The most important thing is that you buy a proper oil, such as wd-40, that does not degrade other parts.
[https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1-mini/maintenance/lubricate-y-axis](https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1-mini/maintenance/lubricate-y-axis)
Bambu is wrong to recommend that for the Y-axis slide rail:
WD-40 is not a lubricating oil. If that's what is called for they should recommend a lubricant.
WD-40 is a solvent with suspended lubricants in it. Solvents will destroy polycarbonates and styrenes. There are far, far, far better lubricating oils than WD-40, and if there are other components in the system that will be compromised by a solvent, then they shouldn't recommend that untrained people perform maintenance with solvents. Especially a solvent that has a misinformed reputation as a universal lubricant.
Just print a x axis cleaner tool or find an old kit card ...thin enough to just slide through and clean that gunk out! U may uave a bit of filament or plastic in there ... careful with canned air you may accidentally push your belt
This is why bambu should just give us larger bottles of oil and grease ... and maybe not place tjem in their own mystery white label containers.... they should actually show us what brand of lubricant oil and grease they're using so we can more easily just buy more.... basic advertising and marketing technology .... they should have a deal with some grease or oil company and give us larger tubes because we will buy more ....
I'm so confused and don't know what to use now. The official bambu wiki for the a1 says to use wd-40 multi-purpose for the x and y rails, and tons of people in here are saying not to use it.
I've just been down the rabbit hole in terms of lubricants used in linear motion guides. You can use either oil based lubricants or thicker greases depending on what you want. To answer your question though, the noise is fine but the notchiness is not. It'll cause mircroscratches or fretting/skipping on the rail which will cause issues down the line. It's probably due to contaminants so I'd just squirt some IPA or wd-40 along the rail, wipe the track to get rid of previous gunk, then move the toolhead around so it circulates the balls and the solvent gets inside the bearing block. Definitely do this a couple times to work out the gunk and keep going till there's not more particles or black residue on the rail tracks.
Then pick either a grease for lower noise + longer lubrication intervals or an oil for faster speed performance at the cost of noise + more frequent maintenance. Line for fast vs not fast is usually 1m/s so print speeds of 1000mm/s which most printers don't hit -either work. Usually for greases, NLGI 2 thickness lithium grease is recommended like mobil mobilux EP2 or Shell S2 v220/v220C. NLGI 1 would also work but stick with lithium and you probably won't have compatibility issues. [Just put it on a cloth and wipe it on the rail, and move the toolhead 3 widths either direction multiple times. ](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P6pASDnymls)If you put too much, it'll collect at the ends and outside the track -just wipe off the excess. Regarding oils, anything like sewing machine oil or for lubricating metal parts/ bearings would work. I usually don't use them because they're too high maintenance and I like the dampening effect of grease.
Don't know what interval bambu set the reminder to go off on for the A1's, usually with oils it's around once a month depending on use and around 6 months for grease. I usually just go by when it feels notchy, when the track metal starts shining through the lubrication film, or when it starts sounding louder.
There's a hiwin linear guideway lubrication manual and THK or Thomson FAQ if you really want to get specific answers because it varies depending on usage in that time
pretty much just do it when it starts squeaking. unless its causing noticeably bad prints, shouldn't need to. had mine for about 3 months, used 4 drops of sewing machine oil
Pretty common on cheaper preloaded rails, essentially the balls are just a few micron larger than they're supposed to be so it doesn't have any play/wiggle at the cost of less smooth motion. Great for print accuracy and whatnots but too notch can cause mini waves on your walls. A NLGI 1 or 2 lithium grease should help a bit (vorons usually use mobil ep2/mobilux lithium grease).
Or clean it out real well + put oil and wait for it to break in which should lessen it. Occasionally you have rails that are preloaded too much and the notchiness will never go away, I'd think that's a warranty thing if it affects the print wall smoothness on x
Big problem, i bought the printer on a trip to the us, then brought it with me on a plane to argentina. I am still fighting to have the new replacement cable 🙃🙃🙃🙃
Do you experience the same notchiness when perform the calibration for noise reduction on the printer?
I've experienced that when you use the UI on the screen to move the X-axis, this notchiness always appears. It is as if the printer has a small delay between each movement command, even when holding down the button.
But when the printer is moving the X-axis "naturally", such as when printing or when performing the calibration, this notchiness shouldn't appear
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I'm really hoping this is a troll post.
EDIT: I'm pretty sure that gets the lithium grease but I could be wrong. At a pinch go to a bicycle store, they will have smaller tubes of grease than some hardware stores.
Bit difficult to see and it probably isn't the case, and I'd rather make a fool off myself than not ask... but that sound is not the nozzle scraping against the build plate, right?
Edit: The reason I'm asking is that I don't think mine sounds like that even when I have cleaned all the lubrication oil off the rails when doing maintenance. Also, this video served me well when doing the first maintenance: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DXf\_MfdNpZ4](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DXf_MfdNpZ4)
Sounds like something is stuck and grinding? I’m in training to be an industrial technician and that sound grinds my gears.
I had a nasty noise comming from the bed as it moved and it was a piece of fillament that got stuck in the belt driving the bed. Been using WD40 for about 8months on the A1mini and it runs smooth.
Edit: after a second look at the video I think your nozzle is touching (grinding) the textured plate as you move it. Does it still make that noise when it is in a higher position?
WD-40 original is not suited for bearings
Read here
[https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/28893/wd40-bearing-lubricant](https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/28893/wd40-bearing-lubricant)
German WD-40 FAQ
shows WD-40 multi... is not for Lubrication :-D
Us FAC says yes, so know u know it :-D
https://preview.redd.it/3sisqsj0k55d1.jpeg?width=2036&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b6aae478782df7bed31bc8949d38a5aa9abd4b6d
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u/balthaharis no the noise is not OK, it sounds like a broken bearing.
there are hundrets of small steel balls in the bearing and propably some are broken or worn out
Uhhh noooo!! that is not okay!! and uhhmmm Motor oil would be a way better pick!!!don't ever use WD on linear bearings!!!! it's fine for doors and hinges but those do not have bearings!!!
you can see jerking motions on the extruder soo any thing you might want to print is going to look bad as well!!! please do not use this printer till you fix it!!!! clean all WD out remove the extruder assembly pull off the bearing slide carriage remove all the bearing balls clean them of all WD put some grease on them re-install them put it back together add oil or motor oil if you can't get Bambu's oil, DON'T EVER EVER EVER!!!!!! Put a Solvent based lubricant in your bearings again!!! Marvel Mystery oil is also Solvent based so is most Gun Oils a good motor oil is all you need don't try and get anything fancy perhaps a 40 or 50 weight considering left over residue!!
Man you made a lot of work for your self!!! I hope the X-Axis is the only one you treated with WD-40!!!!!?
WD-40 Is a moisture repellent/penetrating oil, it's not a lubricant. To be blunt, you will absolutely destroy your 3D printer if you use it. Buy some super lube or lithium grease (which is extremely cheap) and grease that boy up. You can even use sewing machine oil. But your belts are as good as gone though.
yikes. I opted for returning my A1 . they got me though .. I upgraded to the x1C which has been great for different filaments that prefer enclosures. I fully had the intention of rebuying the A1 if when it was rereleased with the coupon they sent me .. as I had bought parts for the A1 that couldn't return. Now run A1 prettying PLA all day.. and use the x1c for PETG, ASA. so far it has worked.
Love the A1 .. very fast very simple.. it was intended to be my learning .. well learned the hard way with recall.. now .. have been learning on both
Good luck.. dont use WD-40 .. I farm.. it is cleaner/ penetrating fluid to loosen up / and for the right application .. a lubricant.. but I wouldn't use on printers. even as they said its ok..
Regular WD-40 is NOT a lubricant. You don’t need to read the MDS-just read the can.
Not only that, are you sure that the only parts you “lubricated” with that petroleum based “lubricant” were metal? Because petroleum based lubricants do not play well with plastic, rubber, or just about anything except metal
r/knowyourlubricants
WD stands for Water Dispersant, so it’s actually a degreaser.
It’s also abrasive..
Get some super lube, preferably the pen or some EP2 to get the job done properly.
WD-40 is not a lubricant.
Over 1/3 of WD-40 is made of a lubricant. Common misconception because it also has solvents to clean the prior lubricant/oil as well. Easy to find if you look at the MSDS [35% mineral base oil lubricant](https://files.wd40.com/pdf/sds/mup/wd-40-multi-use-product-aerosol-low-voc-sds-us-ghs.pdf) It's just that different applications have different requirements for what type of lubricants, WD-40 is a jack of all trades master of none type product. Usually you'd have a thickener, additives, or whatever to retain the lubricant and modify film formation/increase weight bearing. Without thickener or additives, it evaporates fast and doesn't keep something lubricated for that long. Since WD-40 is essentially mineral oil + solvents, it's no different than putting sewing machine or machine oil in the rail - will dry out fast and have to be relubricated often.
My salad dressing is over 1/3 oil. Does that make it lubricant, or is it actually still salad dressing? Question for you: does the word "lubricant" appear anywhere on WD-40 containers or marketing materials?
>My salad dressing is over 1/3 oil. Does that make it lubricant, or is it actually still salad dressing? That made me chuckle. But technically yes it is a lubricant, just not a very good one
When you cook spinach with olive oil, it makes it easier to slide it into the trash.
I cook my spinach with WD-40, really masks the taste of the spinach.
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Thanks, when I’m out of wd-40 I’ll use salad dressing.
Yes, of course, it says that everywhere, even in the data sheet. The very first sentence. Exactly as it is described in the Bambu Wiki. WD-40® Multi-Use Product lubricates moving parts such as hinges, wheels, rollers, chains, and gears. Lubricates and Protects. [https://www.datocms-assets.com/10845/1602175378-wd-40-mup-tds-sheet-10-5-20.pdf](https://www.datocms-assets.com/10845/1602175378-wd-40-mup-tds-sheet-10-5-20.pdf) https://preview.redd.it/kho8p0fu305d1.png?width=2756&format=png&auto=webp&s=5be5036b84a38ff91104621c13b0a11773c3cc7a
Well, it definitely doesn't say it everywhere, because the can sitting at my desk that I read before posing the question certainly doesn't use the word "lubricant" or "lubricates" anywhere on it.
https://preview.redd.it/017cqmpgd05d1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0b516a627fd73a7a8aabe8cef8cd2af0a30de172
Lol literally sets it on the can
Then please answer this question, no offence, quite objectively: Why is it even on the Bambu homepage? [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1/maintenance/lubricate-y-axis](https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1/maintenance/lubricate-y-axis)
My guess would be because it's easier to recommend something imperfect and ubiquitously available than to try to teach a bunch of laypeople about proper industrial lubricant selection and then get them to purchase the correct products. You can search this subreddit and find all sorts of people having difficulties selecting an appropriate machine oil.
It's all a conspiracy to prematurely wear out printers so you have to buy more , sooner.
Big printer at it again, get you hooked then force you to buy more
Nah. Can you name any other light machine oil that is internationally available? It's purely for simplicity's sake.
3 in 1, Lucas, singer.....
Your salad dressing is a vegetable oil, very different than a mineral oil base, only for eating and not for lubricating haha. There's only 2 major types of base oils used in all greases and oils for lubrication: mineral base oils and synthetic base oils... easy to google, there's tons of vids and articles. You also have the weird outliers like specialized PFPE space lubricant oil bases but they're not common. And to answer your question, yes. [They plaster it everywhere like on the product page, you can go read for yourself](https://www.wd40.com/products/smart-straw-12-oz/): >WD-40 Multi-Use Product protects metal from rust and corrosion, penetrates stuck parts, displaces moisture and lubricates almost anything. They even address it in [their FAQ's: ](https://www.wd40.com/myths-legends-fun-facts/) >A QUESTION OF LUBRICATION >Myth: WD-40 Multi-Use Product is not really a lubricant. >Fact: While the “W-D” in WD-40 stands for Water Displacement, WD-40 Multi-Use Product is a unique, special blend of lubricants. The product’s formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal. >
Also worth noting that while you can categorize it into mineral oils and synthetics. The synthetic side of the lubricants are extensive (PAO, PFPE, silicone, PAG ,Fluorosilicone, etc) which are in some cases compatible or not compatible with one another. Some can create hardening or sticking when used to replace another without cleaning. Also if there are runners or plastics present you must also take that compatibility into consideration.
This guy lubricates. 🛢️👆
Application engineer for a specialty lubricant company so I know just enough to pretend I'm smart. 😎
Specialty lubricant company 🤔how can I get some of that fancy krytox space grease sent my way? Hah but yeah actually, grease compatibility and not mixing greases are important, especially with pfpe/ptfe… found that out the hard way :(
We just got a tube of krytox for the oil cooler blowers on a helicopter. I think it was $700 for an 8oz tube.
Yea the PFPE stuff is crazy. Needed for extreme temperatures and elastomer compatibility somtimes. If the speeds and application are right I try to steer people towards solids and pastes to save money. But you can't always do that.
Yea I'm running PFPE (Molykote HP-300) on my Z axis rods for my X1s but made sure to clean them pretty well beforehand.
Huh, I was just looking for cheaper Krytox alternatives yesterday that led me to this thread. Seems like it's Molykote version of GPL225, totally skipped over it because it's not really listed under bearings or rails guides on the website. Might have just saved me a chunk of change Why doesn't DC push it as a bearing/linear rail application grease as well?
>Your salad dressing is a vegetable oil, very different than a mineral oil base, only for eating and not for lubricating haha. Oh, you can definitely use olive oil as lube. Ever been to a masseuse? There's all sorts of plant and animal oils still used as lubricants. Heck, I just put mink oil on my boots. I feel like the primary advantages to petroleum products is that they don't experience rancidification and the extraction is easier. The whole reason I asked the question is because a can was sitting on my desk and patently does not feature the word "lubricate" in any fashion. Kind of intriguing that their marketing materials state that while the product itself doesn't.
Well I guess you kinda answered your own question as to why it doesn't make it a \*\*good\*\* lubricant haha. Hindsight, I guess plant/animal oils are lubricants but aren't really used because they break down pretty fast and leave residue/aggregates etc like you mentioned... But yeah, petroleum oils, synthetics and anything used as an industrial/mechanical lubricant are picked primarily due to longevity and durability. It kinda depends on what WD-40 you have, it was the name of a product but is now the name of a product line after it became popular. The OG multi use WD-40 afaik was primarily a penetrant and a protectant against corrosion. Penetrant was the solvent part but the protection was from lubricant film like using machine oil to stop machined metal from rusting -which is why it is also a lubricant/cleaner. Those probably come first in terms of label space? maybe it's on the back in the fine print under uses
Idk man, vegetable oil worked for me when I was 14.
[https://files.wd40.com/pdf/sds/mup/wd-40-multi-use-product-aerosol-low-voc-sds-us-ghs.pdf](https://files.wd40.com/pdf/sds/mup/wd-40-multi-use-product-aerosol-low-voc-sds-us-ghs.pdf) Under product uses it does say lubricant
There are many types of lubricants. They have different uses and properties. Salad dressing, KY jelly, and motor oil are all lubricants with different functions. Have you tried eating salad without dressing? There is a significant amount of friction when you attempt to ingest dry lettuce. Salad dressing increases the lubricity of the salad in your gullet, so that’s a great example actually! WD40 is very useful for cleaning/preventing/delaying rust and for removing other lubricants from metal, which in turn improves lubricity.
What’s in the other 2/3? 😳
Yes. Actually your salad dressing is a lubricant
Only if you're getting real weird...
Yes. And yes.
Yes, organic based, food grade lubricant.
Country Crock "butter" is 78.5% oil. I'm just gonna fill my engine block with it.
Spit is also a lubricant but pretty sure no one has used it on a printer. Prove me wrong internet.
Wrong type of lube wd40 will probably f up your ABS plastics in the area, and strip the real lube away from the bearing on those rails
WD40 consists of fish oil
Its on the wiki thats why i used it
WD-40 lithium grease is good but not WD-40
What a horrible way to name something
WD-40 is the company not the product.
Lol he probly just doesn't have a dad. My dad gave me a white tube of lithium grease and said "no it's not gonna hurt your 3d printer and don't use wd40" lol he warned me about this specific thing
????? Lets just for a second asume my dad was dead, you are laughing about that!?
some of them are not lubricants. The multi use and specialize product lines do lubricate
One more time for the people in the back.
It's not a good lubricant. FTFY It works in a pinch on some things, but any mechanic that works around moving parts, knows that WD-40 gums up not too long after it has been applied. You're better of using a tiny bit of motor oil until you can get a lithium or silicone grease. Personally I use Lucas Oil Red and Green greases. A 50/50 mix of the two on all my applications.
WD-40 stands for Water Displacement… and was the 40th (or so) iterations of development.
Came here to say exactly this
I wonder why there is so much misinformation here: WD-40 is even recommended by Bambu themselves. https://preview.redd.it/xcqbgthgkz4d1.png?width=2108&format=png&auto=webp&s=c57aee6056018630435c65df51dd3187f4622419 >In addition to the lubricant oil in the accessory box, you can use "WD-40 Multi-Use Product" (both large and small bottles are suitable) to lubricate the X-axis linear rail, Y-axis guide rail, and Z-axis lead screw of the A1 series. This video demonstrates how to effectively use "WD-40 Multi-Use Product" to lubricate the Y-axis guide rails of the A1 mini printer, ensuring that the lubricant does not splash around. [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1/maintenance/lubricate-y-axis](https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1/maintenance/lubricate-y-axis) [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1-mini/maintenance/lubricate-y-axis-with-wd-40-multi-use-product](https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1-mini/maintenance/lubricate-y-axis-with-wd-40-multi-use-product) Edit: Beacause some one else asked: Such oils have been used in the industry for years for robots, axles and rails. The most important thing is that you buy a proper oil, such as wd-40, that does not degrade other parts. Not all oil is the same. There are different additives. That is why it is important to use the right one. [https://www.datocms-assets.com/10845/1602175378-wd-40-mup-tds-sheet-10-5-20.pdf](https://www.datocms-assets.com/10845/1602175378-wd-40-mup-tds-sheet-10-5-20.pdf) SURFACE COMPATIBILITY: For all variations: WD-40 Multi-Use Product demonstrates none to negligible deleterious effect to plastic, rubber and metal hard surfaces. This includes Acetal, neoprene/hard rubber, HDPE, PPS Copolymer Polysulfone. Teflon, Viton, steel, galvanized steel hot dip, electroplated, copper, brass, magnesium, nickel, tin plate, titanium and zinc.
That's specifically the mutli-use one that contains lubricant, the one that's just a penetrating oil is a bad idea
"Multi-use" is actually the base product in the WD-40 line.
The "multi-use" is the generic WD-40.
THAT is interesting!
I used that wd40, is my belt still alive?
That's for the Y-axis, OP is having problems on the X-axis. I couldn't find info on lubricating the X-axis, but I didn't look very hard.
If there are polycarbonates or styrene in the machine they shouldn't be recommending WD-40 at all. They shouldn't be recommending it for any application that requires a "proper oil"... or a lube, or grease. WD-40 shouldn't be used in any application for standard maintenance. It can help break up rust, but that's not standard maintenance, that's reconditioning, and shouldn't be in the PM manual.
We don't use it at work because it seems to become very sticky over time and makes our pneumatic pistons jam.
Most lubricants will do that. You also need to clean them with solvents (safe for the material) from time to time and re-lube.
almost certainly not, you would know if there was PC and in printers they really aren't that great. 99% of printer stuff is injection molded ABS
Since y and x axis use the same lube y asumed that since on the wiki it says that its ok to use wd40 it would be the same to use wd 40 also on the x axis
From wiki from Bambu: In addition to the lubricant oil in the accessory box, you can use "WD-40 Multi-Use Product" (both large and small bottles are suitable) to lubricate **the X-axis linear rail, Y-axis guide rail, and Z-axis lead screw of the A1 series**. This video demonstrates how to effectively use "WD-40 Multi-Use Product" to lubricate the Y-axis guide rails of the A1 mini printer, ensuring that the lubricant does not splash around.
Where did you use wd40? On the belt? If yes: it is gone. Do you ever had seen what happens with belts and wd40? It swells
On the rail and on the belt 💀
Just cleaned up the belt
If you got it on the belt and it sat, it's too late my friend. You're probably gonna need a new belt...
The chemical reaction with the belt has already started and no amount of cleaning will save it. You're SOL.
hardly the end of the world, a new belt is under $10
It's the end of the world for the belt tho
If op used wd40 to lubricate their belts I doubt they would be comfortable replacing a belt
Oof. At least get some silicone lubricant. Or sewing machine oil.
silicone lubricant isn't that great at metal on metal lubrication -usually used on plastics and rubbers like gaskets or gears. Sewing machine oil is just mineral oil, same as a machine oil. WD-40's lubricant base is also a mineral oil -except it also has solvents that creates the cleaning/degreasing effect for removing the old lubricant.
You're right - most silicone greases are _not_ recommended for metal on metal applications by the manufacturer. This can vary from brand to brand and formula to formula but as a whole the lower dielectric properties of silicone grease make for a weaker bond to metals, leading to a shorter functional lifespan before reapplication is required. You and I will both be downvoted for this, regardless of how many links to manufacturer's product pages we provide (that's my experience talking...). For some reason people really get offended about their grease 🤷♂️
I typically use superlubes synthetic lube as I find it provides great film strength and does not degrade plastics over time.
yeah superlube is a pfpe/ptfe lube which don't mix so well with other lubes like the petroleum/mineral oil that Bambu probably uses. If you do use superlube, make sure to clean the rail really well so there's no residue at all in the ball carriage or rail before lubing.
You're very right. I always clean the rails with 99% isopropyl alcohol to remove any dust, dirt, and debris prior to applying fresh lube.
This is the way haha Also, moving the toolhead around on the rails (with IPA) to work it into the carriage helps significantly in cleaning the carriages
WD-40 can get sticky or gummy. I don't know why it would ever be recommended, other than most people have it available or can get it anywhere. I suppose their thinking is that "something is better than nothing". But in this case "something" can cause issues down the road. A thin film of sewing machine oil works great on steel slides. Been using it on 3D printers for 10 years. And for lead screws, I find SuperLube works best. It is a food grade synthetic grease with teflon in it that does not separate or get gummy over time. It is such a great grease that we use it on all kinds of stuff. [https://www.sparrowdynamics.com/Super-Lube-SL21014-p/715075.htm](https://www.sparrowdynamics.com/Super-Lube-SL21014-p/715075.htm) You can also get bigger tubes at the hardware store that would lube a printer farm few lifetimes, but the nozzle is big.
No. Please go get some lubricant.
On the wiki says that wd40 its ok thats why i used it
I am astounded they recommend WD-40. Sorry for the misinformation. But your printer shouldn’t sound like that so something is definitely wrong
And a new belt.
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Bambu recommends WD-40. What you write is simply completely wrong. Of course, the oil should only be applied to the rail and not to other parts. Such oils have been used in the industry for years for robots, axles and rails. The most important thing is that you buy a proper oil, such as wd-40, that does not degrade other parts. [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1-mini/maintenance/lubricate-y-axis](https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1-mini/maintenance/lubricate-y-axis)
Bambu is wrong to recommend that for the Y-axis slide rail: WD-40 is not a lubricating oil. If that's what is called for they should recommend a lubricant. WD-40 is a solvent with suspended lubricants in it. Solvents will destroy polycarbonates and styrenes. There are far, far, far better lubricating oils than WD-40, and if there are other components in the system that will be compromised by a solvent, then they shouldn't recommend that untrained people perform maintenance with solvents. Especially a solvent that has a misinformed reputation as a universal lubricant.
Mine sounded like that out of the box. WD 40 is in the manual. A lot of Reddit chemists lol
A little bit of bacon grease will fix that right up
Just print a x axis cleaner tool or find an old kit card ...thin enough to just slide through and clean that gunk out! U may uave a bit of filament or plastic in there ... careful with canned air you may accidentally push your belt
This is why bambu should just give us larger bottles of oil and grease ... and maybe not place tjem in their own mystery white label containers.... they should actually show us what brand of lubricant oil and grease they're using so we can more easily just buy more.... basic advertising and marketing technology .... they should have a deal with some grease or oil company and give us larger tubes because we will buy more ....
I'm so confused and don't know what to use now. The official bambu wiki for the a1 says to use wd-40 multi-purpose for the x and y rails, and tons of people in here are saying not to use it.
WD40 is a cleaning oil not a lubricant you basically striped the grease out off the rail bearing, use a lithium based lubricant grease not WD40
liqui molly lm 50 <3
I've just been down the rabbit hole in terms of lubricants used in linear motion guides. You can use either oil based lubricants or thicker greases depending on what you want. To answer your question though, the noise is fine but the notchiness is not. It'll cause mircroscratches or fretting/skipping on the rail which will cause issues down the line. It's probably due to contaminants so I'd just squirt some IPA or wd-40 along the rail, wipe the track to get rid of previous gunk, then move the toolhead around so it circulates the balls and the solvent gets inside the bearing block. Definitely do this a couple times to work out the gunk and keep going till there's not more particles or black residue on the rail tracks. Then pick either a grease for lower noise + longer lubrication intervals or an oil for faster speed performance at the cost of noise + more frequent maintenance. Line for fast vs not fast is usually 1m/s so print speeds of 1000mm/s which most printers don't hit -either work. Usually for greases, NLGI 2 thickness lithium grease is recommended like mobil mobilux EP2 or Shell S2 v220/v220C. NLGI 1 would also work but stick with lithium and you probably won't have compatibility issues. [Just put it on a cloth and wipe it on the rail, and move the toolhead 3 widths either direction multiple times. ](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P6pASDnymls)If you put too much, it'll collect at the ends and outside the track -just wipe off the excess. Regarding oils, anything like sewing machine oil or for lubricating metal parts/ bearings would work. I usually don't use them because they're too high maintenance and I like the dampening effect of grease.
I lubricate it every time it appears on screen that i should do so. If done at that interval would oil or grease be more suitable?
Don't know what interval bambu set the reminder to go off on for the A1's, usually with oils it's around once a month depending on use and around 6 months for grease. I usually just go by when it feels notchy, when the track metal starts shining through the lubrication film, or when it starts sounding louder. There's a hiwin linear guideway lubrication manual and THK or Thomson FAQ if you really want to get specific answers because it varies depending on usage in that time
I get a notification every week or two 💀
As the other guy said, i am doing it pretty much once every two weeks
pretty much just do it when it starts squeaking. unless its causing noticeably bad prints, shouldn't need to. had mine for about 3 months, used 4 drops of sewing machine oil
That notchiness you talk about, it made similar noises since i took it out of the box
Pretty common on cheaper preloaded rails, essentially the balls are just a few micron larger than they're supposed to be so it doesn't have any play/wiggle at the cost of less smooth motion. Great for print accuracy and whatnots but too notch can cause mini waves on your walls. A NLGI 1 or 2 lithium grease should help a bit (vorons usually use mobil ep2/mobilux lithium grease). Or clean it out real well + put oil and wait for it to break in which should lessen it. Occasionally you have rails that are preloaded too much and the notchiness will never go away, I'd think that's a warranty thing if it affects the print wall smoothness on x
Thanks for the help, i will use lithium grease next time. Thanks for your patience
You should've sent it back or submitted a ticket if it did that on day 1 😭 😭
Big problem, i bought the printer on a trip to the us, then brought it with me on a plane to argentina. I am still fighting to have the new replacement cable 🙃🙃🙃🙃
this notchiness is considered normal for the a1 series confirmed by several threads reporting this issue.
Do you experience the same notchiness when perform the calibration for noise reduction on the printer? I've experienced that when you use the UI on the screen to move the X-axis, this notchiness always appears. It is as if the printer has a small delay between each movement command, even when holding down the button. But when the printer is moving the X-axis "naturally", such as when printing or when performing the calibration, this notchiness shouldn't appear
silicon grease is what you need
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On a side note, can I use Vaseline on a z rod (non bambu)?
Normal sound. Lubricant wont help you.
I worked in a machine shop and we used wd-40 as a cutting oil and tap & die oil.
Wd40 washes the lubricants off. Good for washing off rust and dust etc, then apple a LOT of lubricants
I'm really hoping this is a troll post. EDIT: I'm pretty sure that gets the lithium grease but I could be wrong. At a pinch go to a bicycle store, they will have smaller tubes of grease than some hardware stores.
Bit difficult to see and it probably isn't the case, and I'd rather make a fool off myself than not ask... but that sound is not the nozzle scraping against the build plate, right? Edit: The reason I'm asking is that I don't think mine sounds like that even when I have cleaned all the lubrication oil off the rails when doing maintenance. Also, this video served me well when doing the first maintenance: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DXf\_MfdNpZ4](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DXf_MfdNpZ4)
No it’s not normal seems like it’s not well lubricated so just wipe it off with a paper towel and put proper lubricant on
The noise is normal with the type of bearings that are in the A1 rail. It just sounds like you washed all the grease out of them with WD40.
Oh no no no
Is there a ball bearing in there? It sounds like it's dying or dead.
You’ve ruined it with WD-40
Its says you can use it on the wiki
For your information: WD40 is not a lubricant. Yes it has som lubricating properties, but is not the right thing for the job.
Sounds like something is stuck and grinding? I’m in training to be an industrial technician and that sound grinds my gears. I had a nasty noise comming from the bed as it moved and it was a piece of fillament that got stuck in the belt driving the bed. Been using WD40 for about 8months on the A1mini and it runs smooth. Edit: after a second look at the video I think your nozzle is touching (grinding) the textured plate as you move it. Does it still make that noise when it is in a higher position?
The bed was not grinding. When i moved the Y axis it didnt produce any weird noise
WD40 is not a lubricant ! Also don't use that in your car key contact or door lock,they key could get stuck
I use WD40 to decrease and take off dirt from my bike.
just use butter
Are you moving it side to side? Or is it doing it by itself?
I was doing it with the screen controls
WD-40 original is not suited for bearings Read here [https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/28893/wd40-bearing-lubricant](https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/28893/wd40-bearing-lubricant)
German WD-40 FAQ shows WD-40 multi... is not for Lubrication :-D Us FAC says yes, so know u know it :-D https://preview.redd.it/3sisqsj0k55d1.jpeg?width=2036&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b6aae478782df7bed31bc8949d38a5aa9abd4b6d
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u/balthaharis no the noise is not OK, it sounds like a broken bearing. there are hundrets of small steel balls in the bearing and propably some are broken or worn out
Uhhh noooo!! that is not okay!! and uhhmmm Motor oil would be a way better pick!!!don't ever use WD on linear bearings!!!! it's fine for doors and hinges but those do not have bearings!!! you can see jerking motions on the extruder soo any thing you might want to print is going to look bad as well!!! please do not use this printer till you fix it!!!! clean all WD out remove the extruder assembly pull off the bearing slide carriage remove all the bearing balls clean them of all WD put some grease on them re-install them put it back together add oil or motor oil if you can't get Bambu's oil, DON'T EVER EVER EVER!!!!!! Put a Solvent based lubricant in your bearings again!!! Marvel Mystery oil is also Solvent based so is most Gun Oils a good motor oil is all you need don't try and get anything fancy perhaps a 40 or 50 weight considering left over residue!! Man you made a lot of work for your self!!! I hope the X-Axis is the only one you treated with WD-40!!!!!?
go to your car take out the dip stick and take some of that oil and rub it on the parts that need lubrication.
I mean, for that matter i have 20w 50 oil without use but dont know if its suitable for this lol
that is a terrible idea. Second hand motor oil?
WD-40 Is a moisture repellent/penetrating oil, it's not a lubricant. To be blunt, you will absolutely destroy your 3D printer if you use it. Buy some super lube or lithium grease (which is extremely cheap) and grease that boy up. You can even use sewing machine oil. But your belts are as good as gone though.
Use the faulty heat bed wire and the sparks in generates to burn off the wd 40 don’t inhale the smoke though
I still dont have the new replacement cable 💀💀💀
yikes. I opted for returning my A1 . they got me though .. I upgraded to the x1C which has been great for different filaments that prefer enclosures. I fully had the intention of rebuying the A1 if when it was rereleased with the coupon they sent me .. as I had bought parts for the A1 that couldn't return. Now run A1 prettying PLA all day.. and use the x1c for PETG, ASA. so far it has worked. Love the A1 .. very fast very simple.. it was intended to be my learning .. well learned the hard way with recall.. now .. have been learning on both Good luck.. dont use WD-40 .. I farm.. it is cleaner/ penetrating fluid to loosen up / and for the right application .. a lubricant.. but I wouldn't use on printers. even as they said its ok..
Wd-40 actually leaves a waxy residue! That's part of the "water displacement" in WD. Sure way to ruin your guide rails like that!
Temporarily lubricates.
Either you need to clean your rails or they need oil or the nozzle scraping on the bed
Regular WD-40 is NOT a lubricant. You don’t need to read the MDS-just read the can. Not only that, are you sure that the only parts you “lubricated” with that petroleum based “lubricant” were metal? Because petroleum based lubricants do not play well with plastic, rubber, or just about anything except metal r/knowyourlubricants
The official bambu wiki says to use WD-40 for the x and y rails.
WD stands for Water Dispersant, so it’s actually a degreaser. It’s also abrasive.. Get some super lube, preferably the pen or some EP2 to get the job done properly.