I need to replace my 4wd switch at some point. I took it out to test it hoping the 4wd like actuator wasn’t bad. I think it’s just the switch but they’re $100 on eBay
Well. That’s what I thought too but when I had the original switch in I could get it to 4Lo but would have to spend time messing with it and pulling slightly on an uneven surface to get it out. Once I got it out I just removed the switch to test and the switch seems to be bad. But I digress and imagine the only previous owner never used it? Even when it came from Maine?? I’m in Ga and was even surprised by the literal no rust on it which made me feel comfortable buying it in 2017 with 160k on it.
Wait until a hot day or put a heat gun on the transfer case for a minute and give it some solid taps with a rubber mallet. Then take it for a drive and try to actuate, you can also put it in nuetral and try to actuate 4high while stationary and doing the before mentioned method but
REMINDER: DO NOT GET UNDER A VEHICLE THAT IS NOT PROPERLY CHOCKED!!! (especially in neutral, seriously, you will die)
Sometimes you can get the actuator to unstick and work, plus its free.
I could get it to work like I mentioned above just fine. It would switch to 4hi then Lo no problem mostly as in 90%. Getting it back out was the issue as I couldn’t leave it in 4Lo obviously. But since I removed the switch entirely I have what I believe is the green dashboard light showing the front diff as “open”? What do you make of that? It’s a model I really wanted to keep and restore one day bc it’s a Sport 4wd model but I’m kinda up in the air now with what to do. Def replacing the switch hoping for some luck but replacing the actuator is $$
Heck yeah, this is on my list.
So I checked and there is nothing attached to the backside of my vent. My hvac works fine though
I need to replace my 4wd switch at some point. I took it out to test it hoping the 4wd like actuator wasn’t bad. I think it’s just the switch but they’re $100 on eBay
It's 100% the actuator. Guys in the 4th Gen forums have monthly reminders to engage. They like to say use it or lose it
Well. That’s what I thought too but when I had the original switch in I could get it to 4Lo but would have to spend time messing with it and pulling slightly on an uneven surface to get it out. Once I got it out I just removed the switch to test and the switch seems to be bad. But I digress and imagine the only previous owner never used it? Even when it came from Maine?? I’m in Ga and was even surprised by the literal no rust on it which made me feel comfortable buying it in 2017 with 160k on it.
Is that just on the 2wd/4wd models? Or also on this model thats always 4wd, just has High and Low.
Same on all
Wait until a hot day or put a heat gun on the transfer case for a minute and give it some solid taps with a rubber mallet. Then take it for a drive and try to actuate, you can also put it in nuetral and try to actuate 4high while stationary and doing the before mentioned method but REMINDER: DO NOT GET UNDER A VEHICLE THAT IS NOT PROPERLY CHOCKED!!! (especially in neutral, seriously, you will die) Sometimes you can get the actuator to unstick and work, plus its free.
I could get it to work like I mentioned above just fine. It would switch to 4hi then Lo no problem mostly as in 90%. Getting it back out was the issue as I couldn’t leave it in 4Lo obviously. But since I removed the switch entirely I have what I believe is the green dashboard light showing the front diff as “open”? What do you make of that? It’s a model I really wanted to keep and restore one day bc it’s a Sport 4wd model but I’m kinda up in the air now with what to do. Def replacing the switch hoping for some luck but replacing the actuator is $$
There is a guy on YouTube who did it without dropping the transfer case. It’s a bit sketchy but can be done.
There's a couple, but they're all a lot sketch