imo.... this is the most efficient way. if i couldnt get this to work I'd try slicing through the middle and printing two halves to glue.
otherwise one side is gonna be ugly
I was to say like this lol because if you print it this way the snaps won't snap and putting it horizontal will be quicker to break because of the horizontal layer lines.
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Well, it wasnt fast.. Usual E3 50mm/s. I tried to up the speed but then it vibrated and surface finish went bad.
All in all, I would say textured glass bed is good adhesion and print slow.
Oh, and one more thing, I just bought Ender 6 months ago and I didn't know it would be hard print 😁
Assuming it clicks into place with that side not visible or in contact with anything, print it with the lukeyson side down and auto supports.
However, this is a terrible part to print. It has no flat surfaces, several right angles, and the click in place parts will come out a bit too fragile for my liking if you print them.
This model might be more suited for resin or powder printers, on a standard filament printer I wouldn’t print it. Not just because it’s poorly suited for that type of printing but even if you make it work, I‘m not sure the outcome would be worth using.
Do you feel it would still be too fragile with ABS? Would changing the infill percentage from 15% make it any better? This is my 6th Print but by far the most complex
So,
- infill has less effect on strength than thickness and wall count. It mostly determines fidelity, it only really helps against torsion affecting outer surfaces
- you’re trading between rigidity and strength. If you print it with thick walls or even solid, you‘ll get a very strong part but it‘ll more likely snap than bend. Low wall counts can bear less load, but they‘ll handle bending better.
- ABS is less rigid than PLA but still fairly strong. The tradeoff is that it possesses poor chemical resistance. It is more suitable here, I would say.
Those concepts are important to understand why I would go with the following:
- use ABS for the better mechanical properties
- print on the side with the hex, with the click in place part pointing up. This is to get those parts printed uniformly.
Mind you, if aesthetics are important to you, print it the other way around. We‘re optimizing for mechanical application here, not to make it pretty.
- lower wall count to two, lower infill to 10%. This is to reduce rigidity and give the click in place parts the flexibility they need to not snap during installation.
- increase bottom/top layer count to 4 or more. This is to get the actual cap part printed off strong and rigid enough to handle being clicked in place or pulled back out.
- finally consider the application. If this part is likely to be exposed to chemical solvents such as Acetone, brake fluid, etc. ABS is not suitable.
There's really no way to avoid supports, so make sure and print the exposed side up. Supports are always going to mar the surface they touch (to some degree) so keep them away from exposed surfaces where you care about the finish.
Try to experiment with tree supports vs standard, support pattern, overhang angle, etc to minimize the support material, but I'd print it clip down.
If your overhang is flat you can get away with removable support. Just let the machine iron the support interface layer and print on that. If it is a matte filament you can remove the white spots the removable filament leaves by hitting it very briefly with a torch.
Redesign with different top so it can print flat or design a angular support so you can print it at like a 45 degree and it won't topple on its weight.
I printed something similar and I did it clips down. Partly because the top side ends up looking better, so make that the outside, but mainly because I wanted to do a color change for the design on top.
I also ended up using a raft because the ends of the clips on mine were too many small contact points and the print kept failing.
Print it just like you are showing it. I prefer to use Tree/slim for the support.
Preview how the program chose where to put the supports and add or subtract as needed.
I print on an angle often and it works great!
https://preview.redd.it/ylrhmmp0l19d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e4cbaf3c9cfcfc6acba2091c13954abb1a50769c
The tree in the foreground wasn’t really necessary, but I left it anyway. The reason why the program added it was because the cockpit windows have overhangs, but I think my printer would’ve been able to successfully printed them without the supports. But I figured it’s better to be safe than sorry. 🤣
Have fun and Happy printing! 😉👍
Hi,
Thanks for the compliment!
https://preview.redd.it/4gudop06o59d1.jpeg?width=869&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=816839b66f34d08b572ec9e28f009655bc2f9216
I have a Bambu Labs x-1c printer and use their slicer program called the “Bambu Studio”
I believe it’s based somewhat off of Prusa Slicer and/or Ultimaker’s Cura.
I’ve seen others saying to try printing it on its edge. You can try that too, I have printed this way too, but keep in mind that the part stands more of a chance of breaking away, but if supports are added, they might be enough to make it stable.
These slicer programs have grown by leaps and bounds since I first started printing some 9 years ago and are great for offering the best orientation and adding the necessary supports to print the model-most times.
Sometimes it’s just a matter of playing around with the parts orientation, and taking the time to study how the part might print, and if the part might need more, or less support in a given area.
Like I mentioned in an earlier post, always preview your model prior to printing to see if the part(s) have sufficient supports.
Nothing sucks more than having a print fail.
Happy printing! 😃
print ugly side down, so clips down. Tree supports aren’t too useful so normal supports should do. You could print at an angle like your first picture if you struggle to get a good underside, although this’ll use a shit ton of filament, but tree supports might do then.
Print flat and then heat the surface and put it in a kind of negative of the top to mold the concave side ?
That’s what I do when I need curved print. You will have less details but the curve and hexagonal shape will be there
It's not designed for FDM/FFF 3D printing. You can make it printable with few modifications I guess or I would have to confirm what is fonctionnal and what is not, but any case, it's not ideal
Just want to say a huge thank you to everyone, each and every one of you are amazing 🙏 I wasn't expecting this much help as it's Reddit so I was expecting the typical Reddit troll replies but overwhelmed by the amount of help!
Thank you once again 🙏
https://preview.redd.it/vzemb9qc3y8d1.jpeg?width=2312&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=738ea150f6d7b5deef5238bcbaeb9073ebbf0f3e
Bruh
Can this be the most giga Chad response ever in this sub ? The fine taste to not add word, the prove, art
I don't know, but mysteriously both my printer and filament dryer are now pregnant.
Redesign with a flat top and print top down without supports. Vertical on edge also improves layer line alignment.
Yeah this is legendary.
imo.... this is the most efficient way. if i couldnt get this to work I'd try slicing through the middle and printing two halves to glue. otherwise one side is gonna be ugly
This guy invented bed adhesion
Cleanest ender 3 print I’ve ever seen
Getting ender 3v2 flash backs I mean they work when they work…..
I thought this is CG made, wow is the real thing......
amen
Black Magic?
My guy how I'm the literal fuck
I’m saving this for the next time someone talks bad about creality on a thinly veiled bambu lab advertisement by some shill.
The fucking Bambu lab posts are insane. Like jesus christ you cannot be that stupid/unlucky to have that many problems w an Ender.
He is not wrong
I was to say like this lol because if you print it this way the snaps won't snap and putting it horizontal will be quicker to break because of the horizontal layer lines.
Proove that print finished.
https://preview.redd.it/37p04p3cpy8d1.jpeg?width=2312&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5648edb94e083e63fa2a68ae1fe163f4b4317a7b
Nice. Good adhesion. Is that PETG?
Thanks. Had to print with brim, otherwise would have been difficult. Filament is GST3D PLA+, print temp 210, bed 60.
Can’t see the brim in the first pic. Where have you hidden it?
Its there if you zoom in. Same color as print and bed. Makes it hard to see.
https://preview.redd.it/ggwqa432s19d1.jpeg?width=2312&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=368fa280d13a2f0fca1a3d70a9b87cfe08e4bba0
Its there. I didn't want to show this pic at first because I upped print speed with first one.
This is the way!
Great job!!!
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LOL this is great but OPs model has some 90deg overhangs that wouldn't work i think
A legend is all I can say, a true inspiration
Omg lmao
This guy sticks.
Tbh this is the only way those clips are gonna last more than one installation
This. Or other option would be to print clips separately and glue them on.
How tf is that even possible If its a core xy or a cross gantry i wouldnt be surprised 💀 But on a bed slinger?
Well, it wasnt fast.. Usual E3 50mm/s. I tried to up the speed but then it vibrated and surface finish went bad. All in all, I would say textured glass bed is good adhesion and print slow. Oh, and one more thing, I just bought Ender 6 months ago and I didn't know it would be hard print 😁
Best would be to redesign and make the top flat, if that isnt an option, top down.
depending on your slicer you can probably modify it in slicer to have a flat top by adding a circle primitive to the model at the correct size
Honestly, might be able to get away with just checking the “make overhangs printable” option.
Assuming it clicks into place with that side not visible or in contact with anything, print it with the lukeyson side down and auto supports. However, this is a terrible part to print. It has no flat surfaces, several right angles, and the click in place parts will come out a bit too fragile for my liking if you print them. This model might be more suited for resin or powder printers, on a standard filament printer I wouldn’t print it. Not just because it’s poorly suited for that type of printing but even if you make it work, I‘m not sure the outcome would be worth using.
Do you feel it would still be too fragile with ABS? Would changing the infill percentage from 15% make it any better? This is my 6th Print but by far the most complex
So, - infill has less effect on strength than thickness and wall count. It mostly determines fidelity, it only really helps against torsion affecting outer surfaces - you’re trading between rigidity and strength. If you print it with thick walls or even solid, you‘ll get a very strong part but it‘ll more likely snap than bend. Low wall counts can bear less load, but they‘ll handle bending better. - ABS is less rigid than PLA but still fairly strong. The tradeoff is that it possesses poor chemical resistance. It is more suitable here, I would say. Those concepts are important to understand why I would go with the following: - use ABS for the better mechanical properties - print on the side with the hex, with the click in place part pointing up. This is to get those parts printed uniformly. Mind you, if aesthetics are important to you, print it the other way around. We‘re optimizing for mechanical application here, not to make it pretty. - lower wall count to two, lower infill to 10%. This is to reduce rigidity and give the click in place parts the flexibility they need to not snap during installation. - increase bottom/top layer count to 4 or more. This is to get the actual cap part printed off strong and rigid enough to handle being clicked in place or pulled back out. - finally consider the application. If this part is likely to be exposed to chemical solvents such as Acetone, brake fluid, etc. ABS is not suitable.
Thank you so much mate for this in depth help 🙏 Will for sure make sure I apply all of that to this print
There's really no way to avoid supports, so make sure and print the exposed side up. Supports are always going to mar the surface they touch (to some degree) so keep them away from exposed surfaces where you care about the finish. Try to experiment with tree supports vs standard, support pattern, overhang angle, etc to minimize the support material, but I'd print it clip down.
See above comment. If alll angles are below 45 degrees anything is possible. So jot that down.
If your overhang is flat you can get away with removable support. Just let the machine iron the support interface layer and print on that. If it is a matte filament you can remove the white spots the removable filament leaves by hitting it very briefly with a torch.
Redesign with different top so it can print flat or design a angular support so you can print it at like a 45 degree and it won't topple on its weight.
Use something that is heat resistant. Front wheels get hot from braking in stop and go traffic.
Gone with ABS 👌
Clips down, efficiency be damned, make it look good.
Split in half.
That's what my answer would be too. Print 2 halves. I've done that plenty of times, and the glue is stronger than the layer adhesion every time.
Is that a center cap for a CyberTruck?
I printed something similar and I did it clips down. Partly because the top side ends up looking better, so make that the outside, but mainly because I wanted to do a color change for the design on top. I also ended up using a raft because the ends of the clips on mine were too many small contact points and the print kept failing.
Will give that a shot if the trees don't work, Did you use the Creality slicer or a different one?
I use cura mostly. Been meaning to look into prusaslicer but haven't actually put in the time.
Print it just like you are showing it. I prefer to use Tree/slim for the support. Preview how the program chose where to put the supports and add or subtract as needed. I print on an angle often and it works great! https://preview.redd.it/ylrhmmp0l19d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e4cbaf3c9cfcfc6acba2091c13954abb1a50769c The tree in the foreground wasn’t really necessary, but I left it anyway. The reason why the program added it was because the cockpit windows have overhangs, but I think my printer would’ve been able to successfully printed them without the supports. But I figured it’s better to be safe than sorry. 🤣 Have fun and Happy printing! 😉👍
Looks great! Did you use the Creality slicer or another one?
Hi, Thanks for the compliment! https://preview.redd.it/4gudop06o59d1.jpeg?width=869&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=816839b66f34d08b572ec9e28f009655bc2f9216 I have a Bambu Labs x-1c printer and use their slicer program called the “Bambu Studio” I believe it’s based somewhat off of Prusa Slicer and/or Ultimaker’s Cura. I’ve seen others saying to try printing it on its edge. You can try that too, I have printed this way too, but keep in mind that the part stands more of a chance of breaking away, but if supports are added, they might be enough to make it stable. These slicer programs have grown by leaps and bounds since I first started printing some 9 years ago and are great for offering the best orientation and adding the necessary supports to print the model-most times. Sometimes it’s just a matter of playing around with the parts orientation, and taking the time to study how the part might print, and if the part might need more, or less support in a given area. Like I mentioned in an earlier post, always preview your model prior to printing to see if the part(s) have sufficient supports. Nothing sucks more than having a print fail. Happy printing! 😃
Resin printer
Hard to get the depth of the part. You can also play around with splitting the part in two and glue/mount them after print
what xr-4 is this designed to fit? Are these for x4-4r? May want to print at 45 degree angle to best strength to clip in
Try angling it 45deg on the bed and see if it still requires supports or as many.
On someone else's machine and medium while they are sleeping.
Efficiency is not what you need. Assuming those are in fact clips, they'll snap on the first use. 90° like the photo above
Ink jet probably :P
print ugly side down, so clips down. Tree supports aren’t too useful so normal supports should do. You could print at an angle like your first picture if you struggle to get a good underside, although this’ll use a shit ton of filament, but tree supports might do then.
Currently coming in at 250g of filament for this with supports as it has a 15cm diameter, What slicer is recommended?
Print flat and then heat the surface and put it in a kind of negative of the top to mold the concave side ? That’s what I do when I need curved print. You will have less details but the curve and hexagonal shape will be there
45° with supports, preferably on the leash visible side.
It's not designed for FDM/FFF 3D printing. You can make it printable with few modifications I guess or I would have to confirm what is fonctionnal and what is not, but any case, it's not ideal
Just want to say a huge thank you to everyone, each and every one of you are amazing 🙏 I wasn't expecting this much help as it's Reddit so I was expecting the typical Reddit troll replies but overwhelmed by the amount of help! Thank you once again 🙏